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IBL'S

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
the lorax said:
IBL is the 7th backcross, not the 4th, right?

an IBL is an In Bred Line ; the point at which a strain becomes stable / homogeneous.

this may happen at the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th,,, 19th cross between siblings of the same cultivar.

the number (#) of times it takes to in-breed a strain so that it performs true/stable depends upon the method of breeding, the original parents used and the selection of siblings (male and female plants) in progeny, across each respective line.

in line-breeding, breeders back-cross from the original parent-clones, at say #3 and #6 to add stability and perpetuate the line.

hope this helps
peace dL :joint:
 
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beancounter

Active member
Veteran
there's not realy any steadfast rules of how many backcrosses/incrosses it takes to make an IBL.

Some strains may only take 3 properly selected back/incrosses to reach IBL status, while other strains could be back/incrossed 10 times without any real selection and still not even be close to IBL.

It depends on the strain/genes, selection, dominant and ressessive traits, and many other things.
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
god been there. DC is a 50 something day flower and a 2 haleys comet passing veg.

alot slower than other IBL's though. DC is just a bitch that don't like to veg. I grew it next to an explosive hawaiian called moloka'i frost and it was like a practical joke. and the thing that drives you nuts is all the energy goes to fanleaves. no height or nodes just fan leaves like dinner plates.

takes a decade to clone too.

someone recently told me the way to get a decent yield of DC without losing your goddamn mind is to make your own seeds. and to plant beds with an old 400 or something if you have it. they'll produce a decent top bud in not long and they never produce anything but a lil top bud and scraggly ass leafy buds under it anyway even with higher lights. and they don't like to be topped either which makes them a PITA to grow. and PITA is the understatement of the year. I saw Raco had a lil chubby chick that produced a nice big bud but those phenos are few and far between.

great smoke though. but I only got bad pics sorry. but there are alot of good DC pics on the net.




 
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beancounter

Active member
Veteran
I've heard comments that the DC is a bitch to clone before too, but I have never had a problem at all with rooting. With DC I consistantly get roots in about 7-8 days using simple soiless peat based mix and stimroot #2 to clone.

I think the reason some people have issues cloning Deep Chunk is the fact that peeps usualy don't take top cuts, to preserve the main cola. So they use cuts from the lower areas of the plants, which are usualy a little pale, and short on N from lack of light. This can cause the large fan leaves to fall off quickly if you don't take some pre-emptive steps to help this.

I like to feed DC very heavily prior to taking cuts, and tuck the big fans out of the way for a few days, and allow light to the lower shoots. I don't always do this with DC, but when I do it greatly improves the chances of keeping as many healthy leaves on the clones/cuts as possible.

I also think one reason why peeps have a bad time with DC cloning is the fact the cuts look realy hurting once you prune off 1/2 of the cabbage to get the cuts to fit into the domes. They're just don't look nice.


Good tips motaco, as the DC SOG from seed you describe would be a great way to improve crop frequency/turnover. I'm trying something similar myself, but with clones instead.

All I know is once I smoked it, I knew I would never have enough. As soon as I find a good outdoor plot my 1st priority will be a field of DC. :yummy:
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
not that it doesn't want to clone, just that its thick ass stems take forever to do so. but I'm a sativa grower and I'm used to those skinny toothpicks poppin off roots in a couple of days in just warm water too though. so take it in mind who said it.
 
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OG bub

~Cannabis-Resinous~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
High folks :wave:

Hybrid vigor is a measurement based on the mean of the offspring generation, and is measured against the parent generation (mid-parent value). Hybrid vigor, when taken as a population measurement, 'could' be the result of different dominant alleles combining in the F1 offspring.
Lets say that 2 loci in parent A are dominant and homo, or heterozygous(aa,bb), and 2 different loci in parent B are homo, or heterozygous dominant too, (cc,dd).
When you cross these two homozygous lines, the F1 genotype is now bb-cc-dd-aa, now 4 loci contain dominant alleles therefore more 'heterotic' than either single parent (hybrid vigor)....
Crossing two parents, homozygous for the same allele, at the same loci, will not provide ANY heterosis.
Crossing heterozygous parents will not give the same heterotic effect across the population, because only a portion of the '"F1"' offspring will recombine with all 4 dominants and be 'heterotic'.

The proof is in the progony.. :woohoo:

stabelizing for a trait, or a couple traits, does not produce an IBL..
Phenotype and genotype ratios are probabilistic, breeding-in with Hybrid Parent plants is unpredictable, if recessive genes are desired for three traits, its not effective to raise only 64 offspring and count on getting one homozygous recessive individual. :bat:
To increase a chance of success its better to raise hundreds of offspring, choosing only the best homozygous recessive individuals as future parents. Progony may not approach predicted ratios until many more have been phenotypicaly characterized...
observation.....

but then.. thats the measure of an IBL.



 

fjällhöga

HazeAddictedFanatic
ICMag Donor
Veteran
here are some dc´s from bub -
a bit slower than my blockhead , but for sure a nice addition to the collection ;)



have fun

Fj
 
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