Ibechillin's Dank Chronicle

[Ibechillin]

Yeah autos are starting to bush out nicely over the last week. I dont know how to describe the stem rub smell because its unique, combination of fresh not burning rubber, hot cooking spices and vegetables rotting in the hot sun lol. Smells exactly the same as some Mazar-i-Sharif Ive encountered in the past.

June 18th:

Week 8 update on the Northern Lights Autoflowers:

Northern Lights bushiest female:

Big Northern Lights male started growing some pistils near top, guess Im only making femenized seed this season after all lol:
(It was culled)

 

[TychoMonolyth]

Beauty.

 

[Ibechillin]

Glad your here to see the auto's progress tycho. Ive been really impressed by how vigorously they started growing after about 6 weeks from germination. Most are just starting to show female preflowers around 2 feet tall and I dont think have even started stretch yet lol.

 

[Ibechillin]

June 19th:

I noticed a crust forming from my last top dressing on June 4th, I broke it up/worked it in and loosened the top few inches of soil before topdressing again today.

top dressed photoperiod plants and worked into soil:

1 cup 6.75 oz nutri rich 4-3-2 pellets
1 cup dr earth acid lovers 3-4-3
13.5 tbsp gypsum
3 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

Agent Orange 10 gallon received:

8 tbsp nutri rich pellets 4-3-2
8 tbsp gypsum
1.5 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

Top dressed Northern Lights auto plants and worked into soil:

4 tbsp nutri rich pellets 4-3-2
4 tbsp gypsum
1 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

 

[pipeline]

Cool, has some uniformity going on with the NL auto! Why are some so much smaller, is that the ones that dried out and had hurt leaves?


I wouldn't want seeds from that hermi male putting out pistils at the top. The trait carries over to progeny.



Those will be getting big! Should yield decent from the big branchy ones! Could put the big ones in larger containers to improve yield. The containers are so small and multi planted! Its fun to experiment, but more roots mean more buds. Growing out the bottom of the containers, I guess the plants are expanding roots into the ground, so there ya go! No problem!

 

[pipeline]

June 19th:

I noticed a crust forming from my last top dressing on June 4th, I broke it up/worked it in and loosened the top few inches of soil before topdressing again today.

top dressed photoperiod plants and worked into soil:

1 cup 6.75 oz nutri rich 4-3-2 pellets
1 cup dr earth acid lovers 3-4-3
13.5 tbsp gypsum
3 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

Agent Orange 10 gallon received:

8 tbsp nutri rich pellets 4-3-2
8 tbsp gypsum
1.5 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

Top dressed Northern Lights auto plants and worked into soil:

4 tbsp nutri rich pellets 4-3-2
4 tbsp gypsum
1 tbsp dolomite lime
2 tbsp kelp meal
2 tbsp humic acid

Thats what you want to do! Good, solid fert mix there! I don't top dress with lime. I think you're supposed to use it just working it into the soil. You dont want too much lime as it will move ph to high or alkaline, and it could potentially lock out nutrients. I use about 1/4 to 1/2 cup per hole dolomite lime.


I recommend trying to work the soil only about 1/2 -1 inch deep if possible. Just break the crust up and try to preserve those roots. The plants will get stressed working the soil too deep. Also, I recommend 3 week top dress feeding intervals. They recommend 3 or 4 week intervals on my products. I was top dressing every 2 weeks, but I think there is something to say about letting the plant root system grow, recover, and take up the fertilizer. Do some more experiments!


Thanks for sharing!

 

[Ibechillin]

The autos were all started and planted at the same time but sprouted at different times. They are all in same soil mix getting same feed/water so seed variation and age differences. Only one of them got sun damaged and its grown out of it healthy and caught up with others.

The "male" is long gone after finding the pistils the other day lol. In the future I plan to mix the chicken manure pellets into my soil mix, just obtained them later than when I cooked my soil. Im not worried about giving the roots a rest, its the longest days of the season and want to make sure they have plenty to eat!

Im thinking watering with some calcium nitrate will help the reveg Cheesecake plants focus more on veg growth.

 

[useless.gardens]

i think a hefty dose of N (early if possible) is important on a reveg.

 

[Ibechillin]

I have a screenshot saved from slownickel explaining ammonium N is the signal for the plant to flower and nitrate N is the signal for veg growth and calcium uptake/delaying flowering. The buds are starting to put out fresh new pistils and new shoots so Im thinking they are ready for calcium nitrate finally.

Im hoping I can coax my plants to begin flowering earlier this season by feeding higher ratio ammonium to nitrate in early August, the Jack's Blossom Booster 10-30-20 has 50% of its nitrogen as ammonium and should work well to transition them.

Where I think there is a lot of room to play is with nitrates vs ammonia. If I grow out veg with nearly all nitrates, the plant will not flower as easily. Nitrate is the signal to veg. Ammonia and organic N is the signal to the plant to flower.

Ammonia without enough Mo can go toxic. It is called ammoniation.

Nitrates will delay flowering for sure. I have made the mistake up North by accident with disastrous results. Even last season experimenting with high fertilizer levels and autos, I delayed them.
It is a problem up here to have high nitrogen levels.
But would be a very interesting experiment to delay flowering on purpose down south with higher N levels.

The idea is not to push high N, the idea is to use a high Nitrate vs Ammonia or Organic Nitrogen. Not high N... I concur completely, and to quote Dr. Reams... Nitrogen is the enemy of Calcium.

Nitrate pushes veg. Why? Because nitrates allow the plant to pick up 4 Ca for ever 2 K. Ammonia or organic nitrogen for that matter, is the signal for the plant to flower, as the plant can only pick up 2 Ca for every 2 K. A definite signal for the plant to "mature" and flower.

Been practicing that concept for years on melons to set two good harvests! Works great!

 

[dank.frank]

I don't top dress with lime. I think you're supposed to use it just working it into the soil. You dont want too much lime as it will move ph to high or alkaline, and it could potentially lock out nutrients.

He's top dressing lime to offset the additional sulfur he's getting in the acid mix when he is top dressing with it, would be my guess. Not to mention, any ammonium based nitrates he might be applying, which can acidify the soil also. The gypsum is providing the calcium, ultimately.

i think a hefty dose of N (early if possible) is important on a reveg.

This is why I chop roots and plant in new soil when I am re-vegging a plant.



dank.Frank

 

[Ibechillin]

You got it Frank, Dolomite lime is to offset potential acidification from the Dr earth acid mix using elemental sulfur as soil acidifier. I learned awhile ago the calcium and sulfur from gypsum is ~100-150 times more available than the calcium and magnesium from limestone, so really its just to buffer PH.

Calcium nitrate is the cheapest and most readily available form of both calcium and nitrogen to the plant, since its already in the pure ionic form immediately available for uptake. I was just looking into foliar feeding with calcium nitrate and found a great post explaining foliar spraying well:

The biggest erroneous claim is ions (normally) enter leaf via. stoma, they do not. They enter via. cuticle layer; the stoma claim is often repeated but it's not correct. This means spaying under leafs isn't critical.

Also, leafs can't take in more ions then roots, but they can take a greater % of ions given to them (often more quickly too).

Folair sprays are most effective at weakly acidic to weakly basic pH; I shoot for 6-6.5 with sprays with ions that can become insoluble at higher pH, ex. >7.

The calcium-nitrate will easily absorb into the leaf (through cuticle layer and cell membrane) and provide Ca, and N for the tissue. Adjust the foliar pH to between 6-6.5 before spraying because leafs prefer near neutral pH, and to keep ions highly soluble try to keep pH in the ideal range.

The higher the RH the better it swells leaf cuticle layer and aqueous pores, this helps leafs take in ions and organic substances (via. cuticle layer; not stoma).

Use of calcium-nitrate is good 3 reasons: (1) it's a good source of Ca; (2) it will continue absorbing into the leaf even when it not in solution (drop of water on leaf) when RH is > 53%; and (3) the ions rather quickly enter the cuticle layer and swell the cuticle layer allowing easier passage of other ions and organic substances (that is why it's good to include calcium-nitrate in all foliar sprays).

DM Penetrator and Saturator have the same flaw: they both use ions to swell cuticle layer that have very high POD (Point of Deliquesce) of >~93-95% RH. That means once the leaf looks dry, the RH has to stay above 95% for the ions in DM to continue being absorbed from leaf surface and thus to continue doing their 'job'. The reason is leafs can absorb ions in phyllosphere for many hours after foliar spraying, long past once the leaf looks dry. That is why I use and suggset CalMag+, because the calcium-nitrate acts in the same manner as the ions in DM product (ammonium-phosphate mix and phosphate-potassium mix). But cal-nitrate works better because it has a much lower POD. So you can make your own, better, DM Penetrator/Saturator.

 

[Ibechillin]

June 20th:

Foliar sprayed 1 gallon among all plants:

1 gram calcium nitrate
1 gram epsom salt
1 tsp blu moon mega roots
0.05 gram yucca extract

N 41ppm
Ca 50ppm
Mg 24.5ppm
S 32.25ppm

Watered all plants with:

1 tsp per gallon espoma grow 2-2-2
1 tsp per gallon blu moon mega roots

30 gallon pot photoperiods given 2 gallons
10 gallon pot Agent Orange given 1 gallon
Northern Lights auto given 1/2 gallon each

Update pictures tommorow of photoperiod plants!

 

[pipeline]

The autos were all started and planted at the same time but sprouted at different times. They are all in same soil mix getting same feed/water so seed variation and age differences. Only one of them got sun damaged and its grown out of it healthy and caught up with others.

The "male" is long gone after finding the pistils the other day lol. In the future I plan to mix the chicken manure pellets into my soil mix, just obtained them later than when I cooked my soil. Im not worried about giving the roots a rest, its the longest days of the season and want to make sure they have plenty to eat!

Im thinking watering with some calcium nitrate will help the reveg Cheesecake plants focus more on veg growth.

You're probably right, you can't burn with organics anyways. As long as you don't cut too many feeder roots and just cultivate at the surface, 2 week intervals is prime I think. Dump that stuff on there! I am thinking of using a mixture of the composted poultry manure and garden tone for next time. Its about $15 cheaper per bag!


I better get out there and feed again sooner than later, its been raining a lot! Its good to be aware of heat. If they don't get rain after working the soil, it can dry them out too much. You learn these things over the years.

 

[Ibechillin]

June 21st:

Weather forecast looking good until Wenesday the 26th then expecting rain until Friday the 28th. Since plants are growing rapidly now im trying to foliar feed lightly often. I havent had any issues with pests so far except for the recently sprouted outdoor Agent Orange plant which was expected, should be fine once it grows some more. My goal is to not have to use neem oil by regularly foliar applying soluble calcium from calcium nitrate and silicon from diatomaceous earth instead.

Foliar sprayed 1 gallon among all after taking pictures:

1 gram calcium nitrate
1 gram epsom salt
1 gram Diatomaceous earth
1 tsp blu moon mega roots
0.05 gram yucca extract

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks:

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks main stalk reveg progress:

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks this was a tight nug and is now stretching into new branches:

Cheesecake #2 @ 12 weeks:

Cheesecake #2 @ 12 weeks:

 

[Ibechillin]

Cheesecake #3 @ 12 weeks:

Cheesecake #3 @ 12 weeks:

Lifted OG @ 12 weeks 36 inches tall:

Lifted OG @ 12 weeks 36 inches tall:

Lifted OG @ 12 weeks 36 inches tall:

 

[Ibechillin]

Agent Orange @ 23 days from germination:

Agent Orange @ 23 days from germination:

Gummo @ 12 weeks 38 inches tall:

Gummo @ 12 weeks 38 inches tall:

Gummo @ 12 weeks 38 inches tall:

 

[TychoMonolyth]

June 21st:

Weather forecast looking good until Wenesday the 26th then expecting rain until Friday the 28th. Since plants are growing rapidly now im trying to foliar feed lightly often. I havent had any issues with pests so far except for the recently sprouted outdoor Agent Orange plant which was expected, should be fine once it grows some more. My goal is to not have to use neem oil by regularly foliar applying soluble calcium from calcium nitrate and silicon from diatomaceous earth instead.

Foliar sprayed 1 gallon among all after taking pictures:

1 gram calcium nitrate
1 gram epsom salt
1 gram Diatomaceous earth
1 tsp blu moon mega roots
0.05 gram yucca extract

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks:

View Image

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks main stalk reveg progress:

View Image

Cheesecake #1 @ 14 weeks this was a tight nug and is now stretching into new branches:

View Image

Cheesecake #2 @ 12 weeks:

View Image

Cheesecake #2 @ 12 weeks:

View Image

I love #1. It has that fibonacci thing happening.

 

[bsgospel]

Yeah buddy, that Gummo is looking great. I'll stay tuned.

 

[Ibechillin]

June 26th

Northern Lights autos @ 10 weeks update:

Other than the small plant with pink pistils, one other plant just recently stopped stretching and is starting to make buds. Most of the autos are just about to start stretch or just recently started stretch.

Tall plant in this picture is 53 inches tall, nearing 5ft in a 3 gallon pot:

Biggest/bushiest Northern lights auto 43 inches tall

 

[therevverend]

Looking good man you've been treating them right. Those cheesecakes are taking their time but there's light at the end of the tunnel.

I like the shape of your long season plants. Getting bushy, they're at that stage when they'd explode if you stuck them in a 50 Gallon pot or a big hole in the ground full of your worked soil mix. They'll still do alright in the containers they're in but you'll need to feed them all the time, plus they'll be drying out when it hits 80 in July and August.

Last year my buddy made 50 gal containers with sticks and tar paper. Made a big circle with the paper stapled together, then filled it with dirt that held it together. Dropped his plants in the middle. They kicked ass. A few were up over 15 feet tall with quite a bit of girth. The drawback was that the black material would absorb heat and dry out. Really the problem with all containers but especially black ones. A lot of watering but he likes feeding from the watering can so it worked well. The real problem was that they devoured all the nutrients by the end of July.

Looks like the slugs have been at the Agent Orange seedlings I'd toss some diatomaceous earth around them. In a couple weeks they'll be too big to get picked on by the slimy hermaphrodites.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
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