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I just started my first Micro grow need help!

newkid

Member
Thanks reddog! still some work though always something to improve on. Trying to clear up those curling leafs and lighter blotches! Wouldn not be at this point with out the people helping me on this thread:biggrin:
 

BigBozat

Member
yeah pics didn't upload right I guess. These ones should work!

Nice! :yay:

Overall, I'd say you should be quite proud of your rescue mission so far! You must've wrestled up some good karma in a past life...

The girls are looking pretty happy, compared to where they came from... maybe you're not in the end zone yet, but you might want to start warming up your Ickey Woods victory shuffle :dance013: for when you show your clone source what you were able to accomplish by some TLC (instead of trashing 'em)...

I can't quite see what's going on with that lower leaf & the purple/red stem/petiole (gettin old, eyes not what they were), and I'm not the best at diagnosing from a distance with pics in any event... I'm sure others around here can chime in (maybe nudge Stihgnobevoli to opine? he's pretty good at diagnosing things quickly & has prolly seen every type of nute def known to mankind)

FWIW, it doesn't seem all that bad to me... off the top of my head, it just seems like a general under-feeding (N and/or K def, maybe with some Mag def thrown in, too?)... and I think you're right that it'll likely take care of itself after transplanting to new soil & larger pots. Wish I could have seen pics b4 things started dropping just so I could see the progression (if any), but c'est la vie...

If transplant is still a ways off, you could try mixing up a gentle dose via foliar & see what happens? (not sure what you've got for soluble sources of N or K; use hort Epsom salts for Mag, and liquid kelp/seaweed is always good for covering trace mins & a shot of PGRs)
 

newkid

Member
I got the kelp meal, EWC, and epsom salts although the salts are not horticulture quality. Picked up some molasses this evening going to get a bubbler sometime this week and start teas on the weekend.

I've come to the conclusion the lower leaf is probably a P deficiency from pics I've compared to online. Didn't check my run off initially after mixing new soil, so I will do that tomorrow when I water them. Also with this pic update do you think there is a chance for hermi ?

Thanks for "holding my hand through this process". In the past as a student I was too proud/stubborn to ask a lot of questions, but wasn't going to let my pride stop me this time lol. After this run I'm going to start 6 new femed seeds I got on order and I will be a bit more independent to say the least haha !!

PS is it too late for a screen? should I trim the dying leaves? just questions that pop into my head as I go, but I don't want to overcomplicate things at this point as I feel lucky to be at this stage.

PEACE
 

BigBozat

Member
I got the kelp meal, EWC, and epsom salts although the salts are not horticulture quality. Picked up some molasses this evening going to get a bubbler sometime this week and start teas on the weekend.

If P really is your need, high P seabird guano would be good for foliar tea. Also, VerdantGreen had this in another thread: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3712267&postcount=9

I've come to the conclusion the lower leaf is probably a P deficiency from pics I've compared to online...
... Also with this pic update do you think there is a chance for hermi ?

P def usu. manifests in old/bottom growth 1st... but usu leaf turns dark green, eventually dull blue/purple tones, with edges/tips turn brown (maybe my eyes r really shot, but your pics show yellow not brown)...

... and curl downward as the def works its way into the center of the leaf. Looked like tips of the edges of the lower growth on your pics #1 & #4 are instead crisping slightly up (classic 'praying for Mag' claw?.. DK4sure... only recourse is to try what u think most likely 1st, then move on if that doesn't work & hope u can identify b4 it gets 2 far)

Fem'd plants, lots of stress, sure hermies r possible. Watch esp. your tallest (male pre-flowers usu show first, n'est-ce pas?).
 

BigBozat

Member
PS is it too late for a screen? should I trim the dying leaves? just questions that pop into my head as I go, but I don't want to overcomplicate things at this point as I feel lucky to be at this stage.

PEACE

Screen, for like SCROG? or something else u had in mind?
Sure, I would veg these out for as long as I could to bring them to as vigorous/healthy as possible before flowering (and I generally do SCROG anyway), so why not drop a screen on 'em if u want?

Trim the dying ones? I wouldn't, at least until ea. looked like 75% gone to me. Even then, I'd be slow... don't want to make it feel like it's under attack (more stress, further growth stunted).
 
I've read through this entire thread, and all I have to say to you, newkid, is thanks! I'm about to start my first grow and this thread has given me a lot of hope, as a newbie.
 

BigBozat

Member
If you're water source uses chloramine, Brita doesn't work... or well, anyways (flow rate has to be reaaaaaaaaaaaally slow -or- you have to run it through multiple times (6+))... you can use campden tablets (an old homebrewer's trick; if you have the muni water report, double the chloramine number add the chlorine number and divide the result by 6 = the # of campden tablets per 20 gals)... and/or maybe a 500mg of Vitamin C... or RO (best)...


I really need to use the thread search tools around here better...

MicrobeMan - who knows what he's talking about - says elsewhere (repeatedly) in some other threads that some molasses (unsulf of course) and/or 'a bit' of compost {whatever a bit is} will do the trick in re: removing chloramine, too, as well as ascorbic acid {Vitamin C, which I already mentioned above}... simply stir in 2 ~ 3 tbsps per gal and let it work for an hour an hour or so, and voila!

He also mentions 'an old shoe', but knowing my old shoes, it'd likely introduce all sorts of nasty stuff I'd just as soon never smell again... LMAO

Apparently the organic matter gives the chloramine something to react to, and chloramine reacts aggressively (works for chlorine removal, too)
 

newkid

Member
Thanks Bozat for everything, I meant to reply earlier and say theres no way I can confirm it was P deficiency haha, was just taking into consideration what you said about its more frequent than most ppl think.

The girls are doing great, the 1 gallon girl has roots poppin out the bottom and is ready for a TP. The girl in the 3 gallon pot is not growing as quickly, think I put her into a medium that was too large. They seem to be responding well to LST and a bit of super cropping. Just wondering can I veg for as long as I want , trying to decide now If I want to harvest before or after xmas break. Going to give them a feed of molasses later today, still haven't started brewing teas yet (have to buy bubbler and High P guano). I have 5 g pots ready for them to go into. Just wondering if I should go for it and prep that soil for flower? Let me know what you think ...

PS no chloramine in my water I check utility report .. thanks again for support so far,
PEACE!
 

BigBozat

Member
Thanks Bozat for everything, I meant to reply earlier and say theres no way I can confirm it was P deficiency haha, was just taking into consideration what you said about its more frequent than most ppl think.

The girls are doing great, the 1 gallon girl has roots poppin out the bottom and is ready for a TP. The girl in the 3 gallon pot is not growing as quickly, think I put her into a medium that was too large. They seem to be responding well to LST and a bit of super cropping. Just wondering can I veg for as long as I want , trying to decide now If I want to harvest before or after xmas break. Going to give them a feed of molasses later today, still haven't started brewing teas yet (have to buy bubbler and High P guano). I have 5 g pots ready for them to go into. Just wondering if I should go for it and prep that soil for flower? Let me know what you think ...

PS no chloramine in my water I check utility report .. thanks again for support so far,
PEACE!

:woohoo:
I love it when a plan comes together... Shall we nominate Nurse Newk for Plant Rescue Missionary of the Year?

Yes, I would prep the soil for the 5gal pots sooner rather than later... the longer you let it mellow out (occasionally re-wetting & turning to keep the herd growin'), the more the herd in the soil makes stuff available... but, if you don't, it's prolly not a huge loss either... I guess it depends on whether you have better things to do between now & then...

Namaste
 
S

sourpuss

Great job newkid! They look healthy... way better than my first and only try with organics.... might give it a go soon... thx!
 

newkid

Member
Picture update

Some concerns with BB2... going to address-
1. water(haven't been letting water sit out over night every time, just filtering I feel like this could be killing my herd).
2. possible pests (thrips), testing with a potato right now lol, heard that can draw out soil pests. I haven't seen any evidence other than that necrosis on BB2 that resembles pests, in 2 different locations, one leaf looks like it grew like that(deformed/mutation). That leads me to believe it could be..

3. Overstressed
I think I over did it with super cropping not going to touch them again just going to let veg a bit until flower soil is ready.

4. General nut def from- water killing herd, (don't think its lockout; my ph run off is good, and I mixed veg soil according to directions). Also considering could be spec. P or possible mag. def resembles pics I have seen, but I obv don't have much experience identifying nut def.. (I have been foiler feeding with epsom at 1/2 tp per gall, as well as in soil, as well 2-14-0 bone meal in soil(P). )
 

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newkid

Member
BB1 looks a bit better. BB1 is in 2 gallon, BB2 is in 1 gallon.

Going to feed both tonight with molasses kelp and humus tea figure can't hurt anything.

I noticed that some charts put P and mg lock out at ph level less then 6.5.

My run off is between 6.0-6.5 -thats as specific as my test gets; its a colour drop tester, so the shade of the run off sample after adding colour indicator is subjective when comparing to accompanying chart.

I can top feed with lime, or use apple cider to correct but don't want to mess with ph yet until I take another reading after filtering out organic material so doesn't effect shade of sample. Another thought is ph fluctuations could be a factor here as well.

phew, anyways that's all for now, I am eager to get BB2 into bigger container just wanted to let recover from SC before transfer.

Let me know what you think of pictures. As always thanks a million haha !
 

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hicksticky

Still at large...
Looking good, they seem to be getting back their health.
I think your ph is looking good especially for organic soil, depending on the chart your looking @ you are in a good range. Lock outs can also a cure in a perfect ph'ed medium from too much of one thing.

But I dont think your having much issues with the ph.
To me the leaf discoloration looks alot like variegation. I seen plants that were stressed and unhappy, after problems fixed grow out "mutated" and discolored leaves then return to normal.
(might be bias I am currently growing a strain that has this and it does not have any ill effects)

The bottom leaves that are yellowing look like she got hungry/thirsty and dipped in to her reserves, perfectly normal.

Looks like you got them turned around just fine, remember your doing organics, once a proper mix is made, worries of ph should be a thing of the past and in some mixes are water only. I havent ph my grow in quite sometime (not saying dont, I should)
You'll get the feel for it and seems your on the right path

Really great turn around from those sad girls you started with.:good:
 

BigBozat

Member
Going to feed both tonight with molasses kelp and humus tea figure can't hurt anything.

:yeahthats:

I noticed that some charts put P and mg lock out at ph level less then 6.5.

For hydro, maybe? IDK :dunno:


My run off is between 6.0-6.5 -thats as specific as my test gets...

Somewhere along the line, doesn't Tainio say the perfect plant pH is 6.4? just sayin...


I can top feed with lime, or use apple cider to correct but don't want to mess with ph yet until I take another reading after filtering out organic material so doesn't effect shade of sample. Another thought is ph fluctuations could be a factor here as well.

I wouldn't... at between 6.0~6.5, seems to me you're prolly just fine. My target is 6.3~6.8, tho I'm not particularly finicky about trying to get it just so... :covereyes:

Lime I wouldn't use unless an elemental def (Mg, or Ca+Mg) were indicated. You can use Oyster Shell flour in lieu of dol lime for pH adj'ing/neutralizing/buffering.
 

Cannabis

Active member
Veteran
You know man, I saw a guy the other day, here - somewhere, here - and he started his thread out with ''sorry guys I thought you were all wrong and it was an imbalance: but it was broad mites."


So it turns out that there is one of the crop destroying mites, -not spider mites, that is SO SMALL
its little bites don't show up as specified spotting where cells are damaged:

they show up as .... well as something, kinda like, what you've got. And the guy said there's a simple test, and it's to get a clean, white paper plate, or something that is white and pristine you can catch incredibly small mites on, and see them moving as opposed to the typical dust and litter on a plant - dand go from plant to plant, THUMPING the LEAVES from the TOP with the CLEAN PLATE BELOW, to CATCH ANY that fall off.

He said you MIGHT want to get something to magnify - but he said you can, and filmed himself or photographed I don't remember - visually spotting some little, LITTLE TINY mites that fell onto the plate WITHOUT any lenses- he just put the paper plate or whatever it was under a bright light: you can see them moving.

I think you should check that, because doggone mites will get in from anywhere.

It's just a thought - but when I did it some mites fell onto the plate along with some dust and tiny fragments of wind borne matter, dust: but the mites, MOVE.

If you've got em immediately go to the net and look up 'insecticide soap'.

Someone will explain the steps to get rid of mites, there aren't any shortcuts really except if they're still in veg you can spray with insecticidal soap or whatever quick cheap insecticide you can get or make

If people near you smoke tobacco you can somehow get some tobacco and make nicotine poison: it'll kill anything that walks or crawls, although people dismiss it as sorta low rent due to the odor of old cigarettes and the current cultural "war on tobacco".

You may wanna read up on that sorta thing if you thump the leaves and some extremely tiny little mites come off them onto your white background object.

Just sayin; I saw the guy's post JUST days ago and his plants were kinda getting sickly and then acting sick but no spider mites or aphids were found. The type that are so small they're even SMALLER than Spider mites are called Broad Mites if I recall correctly.
 

newkid

Member
Thanks for responses, don't think I will worry myself about ph anymore lol. I'll treat with insecticide just to be on the safe side. I have read about thrips sucking out chlorophyl? mosiac virus? Hopefully no more spotting with regular tea/foiler sched, and transplant.
 

newkid

Member
Does anyone have opinion on himalayan salts; for use in soil or spray(read mixed reviews)? Picked some up today just trying different things out... got bubbler going with ewc, humic acid, kelp, and molasses. Read through some threads on pests, picked up some glycerine soap for nut foilers and insecticide ones.
 
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