I have a question about blooming food.

[#1cheesebuds]

Never let it dry out and once again get off the bloom foods!

Those leaves are trashed and so goes your production.

I didn't mean let it completely dry all the way out. I just meant enough so that next time I water it, It won't get over watered.

That being said, I don't know if I should give a plain water again or if I should give it water with a little bit of food or what?

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I didn't mean let it completely dry all the way out. I just meant enough so that next time I water it, It won't get over watered.

That being said, I don't know if I should give a plain water again or if I should give it water with a little bit of food or what?

You can't over water a plant if the root system and foliage is healthy.

You need to get a handle on basic watering, which is giving it enough such that it flows freely from the drain holes. The use of a slow release fertilizer will provide the right amount and best nutrition. What you're doing and using is killing your plant. It reeks of "bro science".

What are you feeding it? Need the GA.

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Tried to warn me about what?

Post #5

 

[#1cheesebuds]

O k, I'm back in the red post number 5. I quit giving it that bloomed fert a while back.

Other than saying to give it some neutral fertilizer. No one else has told me what else I can do at this point.
Also I just checked the soil to see if it was wet today and the pot is still heavy from the last watering.

Added for the record I have grown plenty of big plants in 3 gallon pots and got a big yield. This time I just overfed too early on and I don't know what to do about it. I didn't know what I've already done about it.

And like I already said, I can't water it again until the soil dries out more.

 

[dogzter]

O k, I'm back in the red post number 5. I quit giving it that bloomed fert a while back.

Other than saying to give it some neutral fertilizer. No one else has told me what else I can do at this point.
Also I just checked the soil to see if it was wet today and the pot is still heavy from the last watering.

Added for the record I have grown plenty of big plants in 3 gallon pots and got a big yield. This time I just overfed too early on and I don't know what to do about it. I didn't know what I've already done about it.

And like I already said, I can't water it again until the soil dries out more.

Relax and see what it does there are no quick fixes.
Stay far the fuck away from anything cannabis specific like Ben says.
You ever wonder why you need to adjust ph on a specificly blended fert?

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

O k, I'm back in the red post number 5. I quit giving it that bloomed fert a while back.

Other than saying to give it some neutral fertilizer. No one else has told me what else I can do at this point.
Also I just checked the soil to see if it was wet today and the pot is still heavy from the last watering.

Added for the record I have grown plenty of big plants in 3 gallon pots and got a big yield. This time I just overfed too early on and I don't know what to do about it. I didn't know what I've already done about it.

And like I already said, I can't water it again until the soil dries out more.

Damage has been done

Reason why the pot is still wet is the normal wicking action of healthy foliage isn't happening.

Think you're going to have write this one off to an education, sorry.

 

[Ca++]

It's not dead yet.

You were using a badly balanced feed, then no feed. They are not going to look great.

Get some canna or plagron. They have everything except your calmag in them. I guess your calmag is 5% CaO? so you want 1.5ml per liter, to give you about 50ppm Ca. Add to this h2o2 at a good dose. You want to put 5L in each pot. Wait 10 mins. Put in 5L more. Wait 10 mins. 5L more. Hopefully at least 5L has come out the bottom and been chucked. If not, then feed some more.
I wouldn't mess about with low feeds. If it says 5ml, use 5ml. You are trying to feed them properly, while flushing out the old stuff.

If you don't yet have the pH meter, then it's pointless. You won't know if you are giving them something they can eat. You also need to check the runoff. If the last dribbles are not the right pH still, then you need to keep flushing through with that good stuff. Only when it's coming out the bottom decent, is it decent in the container.

 

[mexweed]

You never stated what kind of soil you are growing in, many soils get depleted of nutrients if there was even sufficient levels of nutrients in it in the first place

Unless it's something known to be pretty hot like ffof you need to amend it when you transplant going into flower with something like down to earth bio-live or all purpose, and then you can give a light feeding of a liquid or top dress with something later on if it looks like it's slowing down

 

[#1cheesebuds]

Growing in fox farm happy frog. I topped soil with ewc 2 weeks ago.

 

[#1cheesebuds]

It's not dead yet.

You were using a badly balanced feed, then no feed. They are not going to look great.

Get some canna or plagron. They have everything except your calmag in them. I guess your calmag is 5% CaO? so you want 1.5ml per liter, to give you about 50ppm Ca. Add to this h2o2 at a good dose. You want to put 5L in each pot. Wait 10 mins. Put in 5L more. Wait 10 mins. 5L more. Hopefully at least 5L has come out the bottom and been chucked. If not, then feed some more.
I wouldn't mess about with low feeds. If it says 5ml, use 5ml. You are trying to feed them properly, while flushing out the old stuff.

If you don't yet have the pH meter, then it's pointless. You won't know if you are giving them something they can eat. You also need to check the runoff. If the last dribbles are not the right pH still, then you need to keep flushing through with that good stuff. Only when it's coming out the bottom decent, is it decent in the container.

I'm not gonna take it down until it's dead dead.

 

[Ca++]

Electronic worms? (ewc)
I'm not sure what they eat. This is a familiar theme with real worms to. I just pulled 3 papers in my search for e-worm castings, and saw P from 3 to 20, which is so broad it's touching on unworkable.
The FF dirt seems good, no matter which. Once exhausted, it would be nice to feed in a balanced way. It seems a shame to chuck on unknown feeds. Which have higher N as a theme, and not higher K.

 

[mexweed]

Happy frog is definitely depleted, ewc isn't enough either, look into down to earth bio-live or all purpose, fox farms also has a happy frog line of similar stuff you can use

 

[#1cheesebuds]

I need to get a MUCH bigger yield this time around. What can I do? I know I can give them flower fertilizer but I don't want to overfertilize them this early on. For bloomming I was gonna just use the Medina hasta gro i have on hand, but I don't know if that s*** works anymore. I'm willing to buy something else, but only if it's guaranteed that I'll get a big yield. Because I don't want to waste more money on a product that doesnt' work. Suggestions welcome.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I need to get a MUCH bigger yield this time around. What can I do? I know I can give them flower fertilizer but I don't want to overfertilize them this early on. For bloomming I was gonna just use the Medina hasta gro i have on hand, but I don't know if that s*** works anymore. I'm willing to buy something else, but only if it's guaranteed that I'll get a big yield. Because I don't want to waste more money on a product that doesnt' work. Suggestions welcome.

View attachment 18940357 View attachment 18940358 View attachment 18940359

I'm not getting thru. You're not going to get any yield because you don't have the leaves for it. There is not enough healthy (productive) leaves to produce much bud.

For some strange reason folks get off thinking leaves don't matter as much 16 bottles of snake oils and bro science with all the "you go bro" does.

You have done your leaves in most likely by depriving them of enough N, such is snake oil stuff like Medina, especially their Hasta-Gro 6-12-6. No plant material needs a lot of P, even during blooming. I stick to a ratio from start to finish of around a 3-1-2, like Dyna-Gro's Foliage Pro which is a 9-3-6 plus an extensive micros package. One part, all you need. I'm using Osmocote now including in the germ pots. Just upcanned 4 of these at the bottom. The dark green ones are indicas I upcanned to 2 gal. pots with Osmocote about 10 days ago.

Dec. 22

Good luck,
UB

 

[mexweed]

Honestly the environment you're growing in doesn't look the best, what kind of light are you using/how powerful is it? Also is that a dwc bubbler/cloner off to the right in the first post?

If you don't have that high power of a light and are needing maximum yields with quicker turn around it's probably time to ditch the huge soil pots and look into building a larger dwc tote or running coco with salts, something like Jack's 321 in a 70/30

 

[Ca++]

18c on the thermometer. I had not noticed this.

I wouldn't bother. Though we do have someone who swears by low temperatures. For me, it's just not happening. North of 25 is just getting warm. 18c is a night temperature.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Honestly the environment you're growing in doesn't look the best, what kind of light are you using/how powerful is it? Also is that a dwc bubbler/cloner off to the right in the first post?

If you don't have that high power of a light and are needing maximum yields with quicker turn around it's probably time to ditch the huge soil pots and look into building a larger dwc tote or running coco with salts, something like Jack's 321 in a 70/30

Unless the light he's using caused an extreme light over saturation which is destroying the chlorophyll, there is no light relationship regarding the sickly and sparse foliage. He's taking too much "advice" and not understanding the nutritional requirements of his faves. IOW, he's throwing a bunch of shit at his plants hoping something sticks.

Essential Plant Nutrients - Alabama Cooperative Extension System

A basic knowledge of essential plant elements is important in helping producers plan their crop inputs for a given crop or growing season.

www.aces.edu

It's too late in the game to produce what's required to produce "more yield" - plenty of healthy foliage. I'd write it off to an education, take what you can and re-veg with a 18/6 or 20/4 and try again.

Compare his with this Deep Chunk male I destroyed:

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

18c on the thermometer. I had not noticed this.

I wouldn't bother. Though we do have someone who swears by low temperatures. For me, it's just not happening. North of 25 is just getting warm. 18c is a night temperature.

Good point but not what's going on. Wacko temps might not produce the best growth but they wouldn't induce such as sparse canopy and sickly foliage with compromised leaf margins and such.

Having said that temps of 30C days, 20C nights is good.

This old thread at Troll It Up might help - https://www.rollitup.org/t/uncle-bens-gardening-tweeks-and-pointers.267989/ In a nutshell....

Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks - drafted in 2009

After 40 years of gardening experience, a ton of applied book learning, and a whole lot of research and personal experience I thought I'd share some pointers or tweeks. Feel free to comment.

Light - Plants needs a rest. Recommend 20/4 for veg. Plants do better (produce more carbos) with less light over a longer period of time than alot of light for a shorter period of time. There is a point of light saturation where more light will work against you by bleaching out the lifeblood of the plant - chlorophyll. Learn to "read your plants" and keep those leaves healthy and green until harvest. Also, contrary to forum paradigms, in general you want to give your plants more light during veg and less during flowering, think nature. The flowering response is not the time to bleach out the leaves with high light intensities (and high P foods). Ultra low levels of N found in bloom foods will generally not support leaf health.

Temperature and the importance of day/night differential - In general, a 85/70F (32/16C) day/night temp or there abouts is best for most hybrids for maximum carbo production. What's really important is a good drop in temperature at night, of at least 15F/4C. If night temps are too high, the plant will use up the carbos manufactured during the day to the process of respiration as opposed to plant cell division/elongation (tissue production).

Watering technique - contrary to popular belief, wet/dry cycles are NOT good, especially for organic growers. Keep the soil medium moist but not saturated to the point where air is excluded. When you water, don’t be shy. Water until there is a good runoff. The issue is not overwatering, it's watering to the point of the exclusion of air.

Fertilizers - I don’t use cannabis specific plant foods for many reasons. If you do, make sure you’re able to find the NPK and micro values and understand the relationship between those elements. An overage of one element over another will create an antagonistic affect. For example, too much K tends to create a deficiency of N, Ca, and Mg.

Foliage production - Grow for the most amount of foliage you can going into the flowering response. Maintain those leaves in a green and healthy condition up until harvest, even if it means switching fertilizer to a high N value, like a 9-3-6.

Upcanning (repotting) - Score the rootball - pop the ball out and using a razor blade or sharp knife insert it about ½" into the rootball at the top and slice thru the exposed roots from top to bottom concentrating on any root spinout at the bottom. Rotate the rootball and do this about 4 times. Bury the plant as deep as you can even if it means pulling off some of the lower leaf sets. This will induce root output all along the buried trunk.

Uncle Ben


UB

 

[dogzter]

These are the defoliate kids ben.........they honestly think plucking off all the leaves helps.
I gave up on trying to get through years ago I admire your persistent attempts to get through to them.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

These are the defoliate kids ben.........they honestly think plucking off all the leaves helps.
I gave up on trying to get through years ago I admire your persistent attempts to get through to them.

Yes, they are. Been away from this thread for a long time and got suckered back in. I'll never learn! (Pearls before swine) https://overgrow.com/t/defoliation-vs-no-little-defoliation/47931/728

Hey, it's OK if you pluck only 1/3 off during a waning full moon when the winds cry Mary.

Uncle Ben