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^ me either, he said he used a mix of top soil and potting soil
I think they are bogged down with heavy mud, not enough oxygen.
I think they are bogged down with heavy mud, not enough oxygen.
G
Guest
yup the problem was the mix i had it in i put her in normal top soil and now waiting for the recovery.
the rest have taken off and lef this one behind.
the rest have taken off and lef this one behind.
Very good!!
G
Guest
Good call POMH. Has anyone mentioned a humidity dome. It looks awful dry - and BTW, off the shelf potting soil may have nutes included in the formula.Good advice on beer cups - I use plastic seedling tray inserts that only hold about 2-3 TBSp of soil until they send taproots out of the bottoms. Then into beer cups and 6" under 400w CFLs with plenty of ventilation. Make sure the cups have plenty of drainholes - when you water it should flow right through and out the bottom, if you have to wait for it to drain it's probably too muddy.
One obvious mention should be go easy on the light until the 3rd node or so - the idea is to force the plant to beef up the root structure for nutrients. Too much light and you're defeating the purpose, why should it grow roots if it gets what it needs just from light. I never transplant until it tells me to, when roots shoot out of the bottom it's begging for more room.
It's not rocket science. It's a weed that wants to grow, just needs the right conditions. Think of a greenhouse - lots of indirect ambient light and humidity. Once you get that down you'll be growin like these pros.
And keep in mind that dry is better than wet. Don't water until it feels feather light when you pick it up. The leaves will start to droop, begging you for more water. And IMO nutes kill more seedlings than anything, read the soil ingredients and if you're not sure what it all means, ask. The advice on using ProMix is golden - just peat moss and perlite or vermeculite with no other additives. If you haven't PH'd your water, I'd pick up a cheap bottle of PH Neutraliser from any shop that sell aquarium stuff, and pretreat the water before using it (same thing as letting it sit and air for 24 hours to remove chloramides and chlorine). The benifit of adding a neutraliser is the buffer component - even when you mix nutes and then neutralise to PH 7 it "buffers" to 7 and holds it. A lot of water systems now days use salt to soften the tapwater and the PH is wacked for plants, especially tender seedlings.
Good luck - you'll be caring for a great plant in no time.
1Toke
In this picture, the golden dry leaf border looks like a N burn.. but the overall seedling looks like it finally took it.
Maybe pH regulation could help, When pH is not "buffered" to 6.5-7.0, N (Azote/Nitrogen) cannot be absorbed as it would be normallly.
IME all potting soils contain added ferts.
Maybe overwatering is the problem in this situation but I read seedlings are less sensitive to OW.. Maybe Relative Humidity is taking part in the problem also..
Peace, and growell,
Max
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The first pic looks like root rot to me. If you decide to discard this plant, pull it gently out of the earth. If it gives you good resistance you have a good root structure. If it comes out easily and the roots are brown and tear easily, you probably have root rot. Same for if their all slimy and brown and swollen.
You will learn something from this plant
The second seedling looks fine to me as regards new growth. I would flush a little bit, make sure there is enough drainage, and then start feeding mild nutrients. If you poke you finger about 1 inch down into the soil it gives you a better indication of how wet/dry it is. Also, if you lift the pot, how heavy is it? Note down how heavy it is when dry and wet - this gives you a good indication as to when to water if you are getting confused.
You will learn something from this plant
The second seedling looks fine to me as regards new growth. I would flush a little bit, make sure there is enough drainage, and then start feeding mild nutrients. If you poke you finger about 1 inch down into the soil it gives you a better indication of how wet/dry it is. Also, if you lift the pot, how heavy is it? Note down how heavy it is when dry and wet - this gives you a good indication as to when to water if you are getting confused.
G
Guest
I recommend using pro-mix as well. It costs more then regular ole potting soil - but is way worth it because the mix is fairly fool proof if you never mixed your own soil and/or are nervious about screwing it up and will help prevent problems such as lack of oxygen, drainage, Ph flux, etc., that you're experiencing now.
Make sure the pots have drain holes on the bottom - a must. Plant's have to breathe and you don't want to rot the roots. Water thoroughly, just until you see it drip from the drainholes on the bottom of your pot (not pouring, streaming), then DON'T water them again until you can stick your index finger in the soil and the tip of your finger is only slightly damp. Only will need watered once or twice a week usually in premier pro-mix.
The CFL's are fine, I've used them for the past four-five years. But bring them closer to the plant an inch or two - they are cool enough, won't burn them unless they touch the light. The GE Sunlight CFL's are a better spectrum then the soft whites - 6500k. Of course there is always better lighting methods, but if budget growing, etc..
Less love is better, I've found out over time - don't give any fert at all during the first couple weeks and when you do, make sure it is weak. I personally use Peter's ALL-Purpose (because I screw up doing organic and peters has the micro nutrients), has always done me justice. But, I do things "easy" and fairly noobish/foolproof. When I first fert, it's 1/4 strength and I don't fert again for another week or so and again, I give 1/4 to 1/2 strength. I don't fert all the time and always do normal water-only between watering - only when needed, no watering schedule - I use finger method to tell. I only water when I can stick my finger in feel it dry. If you're tempted to fert them or think they need ferts. Water them with water only and then weakly fert them next watering session. It's one way to not overdue it and give too much love. The more you grow and read on other's methods, the better you get at it (nothing beats experience).
my
Make sure the pots have drain holes on the bottom - a must. Plant's have to breathe and you don't want to rot the roots. Water thoroughly, just until you see it drip from the drainholes on the bottom of your pot (not pouring, streaming), then DON'T water them again until you can stick your index finger in the soil and the tip of your finger is only slightly damp. Only will need watered once or twice a week usually in premier pro-mix.
The CFL's are fine, I've used them for the past four-five years. But bring them closer to the plant an inch or two - they are cool enough, won't burn them unless they touch the light. The GE Sunlight CFL's are a better spectrum then the soft whites - 6500k. Of course there is always better lighting methods, but if budget growing, etc..
Less love is better, I've found out over time - don't give any fert at all during the first couple weeks and when you do, make sure it is weak. I personally use Peter's ALL-Purpose (because I screw up doing organic and peters has the micro nutrients), has always done me justice. But, I do things "easy" and fairly noobish/foolproof. When I first fert, it's 1/4 strength and I don't fert again for another week or so and again, I give 1/4 to 1/2 strength. I don't fert all the time and always do normal water-only between watering - only when needed, no watering schedule - I use finger method to tell. I only water when I can stick my finger in feel it dry. If you're tempted to fert them or think they need ferts. Water them with water only and then weakly fert them next watering session. It's one way to not overdue it and give too much love. The more you grow and read on other's methods, the better you get at it (nothing beats experience).
my
D
dre86
hate to say but that first plant is hopeless
The second one will pull through
The second one will pull through
G
Guest
wow thanks for all the help guys.
the first plant was put in top soil its is better than that pro-mix stuff all the leaves but the top 2 have died but this plant will make it
The second one is about a foot tall.
Only takeing cutting indoors from now on growing indoors too hard.
What is this about no ferts in the first week? HA!! well every one gots there own way true the 2 first leaves are the plants food. The plants use this as a 'Back up' source so you could fert from the beginging just got to know how. And a little goes a long way at this stage too
But cat luck ent dog luck cause you guys got some nice plants going there indoors but outdoors i kick ass and my indoors suck.
I willl stick too my 7 foot Jamacian sativa.
Even though this indeca looks so nice
the first plant was put in top soil its is better than that pro-mix stuff all the leaves but the top 2 have died but this plant will make it
The second one is about a foot tall.
Only takeing cutting indoors from now on growing indoors too hard.
What is this about no ferts in the first week? HA!! well every one gots there own way true the 2 first leaves are the plants food. The plants use this as a 'Back up' source so you could fert from the beginging just got to know how. And a little goes a long way at this stage too
But cat luck ent dog luck cause you guys got some nice plants going there indoors but outdoors i kick ass and my indoors suck.
I willl stick too my 7 foot Jamacian sativa.
Even though this indeca looks so nice
G
Guest
Ha just as she was doing ok a slug eat her!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Just my luck
Just my luck
