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hush did a gardening

Iamnumber

Active member
panama vegged under 165w led. is that 165w from wall or 165 watts maximum for light fixture - generally what is advertised at wattage for leds? (that would be roughly 90 or so watts from wall..)


what light/dark regime do you use when vegging? ( I don't recall seeing this) have you tried different ones and why did you chose the one you use now? did you see major differences (in inter node spacing etc.) between different regimes?



Short inter nodes and keeping plant somewhat flat is generally what I desired (in plants going to flowering). Note about giving less intense light to shape mothers into more flute shape was really good one.



Trying to figure out light setup for veg stage. I will use FL t5 tubes .. heavy on blue spectrum but with other (yellow, green red) also. I feel I would have a good spectrum and I can play around with it later on .. Now trying to figure out how much light ( watts or lumens as they are only values I have for lights).


be safe!
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
panama vegged under 165w led. is that 165w from wall or 165 watts maximum for light fixture - generally what is advertised at wattage for leds? (that would be roughly 90 or so watts from wall..)

I don't think there is a standard about this. I've seen manufacturers refer to the actual watts as often as I've seen them refer to the maximum spec. But my fixture is 220 watts, which uses 165 actual watts.


what light/dark regime do you use when vegging? ( I don't recall seeing this) have you tried different ones and why did you chose the one you use now? did you see major differences (in inter node spacing etc.) between different regimes?

I have pretty much always used 18/6. I never stray from that. It just works. I've never experimented with other options.



Trying to figure out light setup for veg stage. I will use FL t5 tubes .. heavy on blue spectrum but with other (yellow, green red) also. I feel I would have a good spectrum and I can play around with it later on .. Now trying to figure out how much light ( watts or lumens as they are only values I have for lights).

T5s are great veg lights. I used them exclusively for years before deciding to veg under HPS in most of my gardens. The more blue light there is, the shorter the internodes. But some flowering gardens would be better suited for plants with longer internodes, so there's no right or wrong, and you just gotta do what works for you.

When it comes to using T5 fluorescents for vegging, I prefer to think of things in terms of footprint, rather than wattage. Each 8-tube fixture is about 2 feet wide, and obviously there are 2 foot tubes and 4 foot tubes, and all you need to know is that fluorescent light doesn't really spread. This means that the size of the fixture is the same size of the footprint that it will light up. So basically, long story short, match your light to the space you want to work in, or vice versa.

:tiphat:
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Sorry for the late update, but here's what she looks like after a week of my absence, but after tucking the tops back down again:

3tyWw1y.jpg


AX5L7Pm.jpg
 

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
Does that screen just sit on top? Is it just there temporarily, or will it stay for the whole grow?
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
I planted up the Golden Tiger clones today. These were the tops of the original 4 plants. All of them have sufficiently rooted in their rockwool cubes, so I put them in 2 gallon coco hempys.

FZgIrZ5.jpg
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
The stretch is ramping up here on the Panama. The tucking continues every day. Yesterday I had to tuck three times. I expect that to increase substantially. It's a good thing I live right down the street from my job.

This is one of the only "downsides" to the SCROG method... It's very labor intensive in early flowering, and late veg as well, sometimes. But it pays off in the end with, if not a larger harvest, then one of more homogeneity in the buds, which is a quality I strive for.

So anyway, I'll post lots of pics while the tucking continues, in the hopes that someone can learn a thing or two about how it's done right. I'm no master or anything, but I love me a perfect SCROG. :biggrin:

nh5eOBm.jpg


...Also, I'm just gonna keep taking my garden pics with this fluorescent setup I've been experimenting with. I have noticed that it's hard to use my photos for retroactive nutrient deficiency checks, because of all the color correcting going on.
 

YukonKronic

Active member
I'm watching and learning brother. My current SCROG would be waaaay beyond control if u hadn't dropped the hint that I need to flip before my screen is too full. I also think I prefer your results with topping than my previous efforts to get lower branches to "catch up"... keep up the good werk meng looks great:tiphat:
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
It's not uncommon to make that mistake, really. Thing is, that does work for squat or columnar plants. I would use that technique for, say, Pakistani genetics. But yeah, not for stretchy trees like this.
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Here's a shot that shows what the screen looks like when it hasn't been touched for almost 24 hours. Then, I suppose later after I tuck I'll post an after shot.

oSaaGwT.jpg
 

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