hps light....

[hippie_lettuce]

I always like to experiment with the distance. Sometimes, I will move the plants closer to the light during veg, probably between 7-10 inches. I use t5's so they are not that hot. But, during flowering, I have had them as far away as 12"+ and as close as 7"+ under an HPS. I think that strains will react differently. My one Mandala #1 loved being as close as 7" to the light. I think our OHazexSkunk#1 hybrid liked being on the "outskirts" of the light.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

i want some t-5s

 

[dmt]

ive used 'adjustawing" reflectors wih the most success. they can come wih a light diffuser which spreads light evenly(no hot spots, which allows you to place bulbs up to 50 % closer without losing your square footage light footprint. my friend has rocked them 12 inches from the canopy, but plants will stress once major flowers form. keep a regular horizontal from about 18 inches away.

 

[skeeterpeep]

hey disco, is there much difference between sour diesel and red diesel as far as how long they flower? do you know how long red diesel takes to flower? ive never grown anything other than tomatos in my yard with mirical grow and a hose!

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

Lots of things mediate how close a plant can be to the light and be happy. Brightness of the source is not the only factor. Radiant heat from the bulb can be damaging, especially to leaves that, for whatever reason, are transpiring less water. Wind, or fans blowing on the plants can make them stressed from using so much energy to transpire extra water and cool off that they become more 'light shy' than they would otherwise be. Excess heat in the growroom added to wind and super bright light makes an environment that's great for blue agave (Tequila) but really just another test of toughness for our beloved cannabis.

On bud density
The first factor that controls bud density is genetics. Second, excess N during flowering almost always makes buds (of any genetics) more 'stretchy' and with organic soilmixes or outdoors, this can be harder to control. Bright light in combination with excess N will stretch just about anything. Many people have observed this (someone here mentioned it) stretching on buds that are closer to the light, while the further ones remain tight. I grow in preamended soilmixes, so I see it all the time. It's one of the reasons I began experimenting with moving plants further from the light source as they advance in flowering. Oh, almost forgot; a third factor in bud density is watering. If there is not an adequite water supply during bud formation, airy buds will result. Hydro growers need not take note!

Another thing that influenced me to think 'shady thoughts' was my observation of identical clones grown in different outdoor locations. I noticed that plants grown in partial shade outyield those grown in direct (SoCal) sun. I and two local friends have observed this 3 different times. So far, theories about the larger leaf area of shade grown plants are all we have. Or it could just be the more nutritive soil found under local trees. Obviously more people need to try to reduplicate our results.

It's obvious that more light makes plants grow faster and bigger, so there is a natural evolution towards brighter lights. But, like water and nutrients, light is only better up to a point, then it gets to be a stress. Most growers are using too bright lights, that is something I've personally observed many times in many gardens.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Mr. Greengenes again.

.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

id like to hear more info from greengenes

Me too. Since you referenced my comment I'd like to respond.

...why would you run a stronger light in veg if a lower wattage light is totally capable of rapid growth while keeping stretch to a minimum.

Why did mj adapt to "veg" in late spring/early summer and flower when the sun is less intense?

I obviously don't know the answer but other aspects and practices of indoor growing purposely mimic nature.

Whether the method presented actually works or not is debatable but it would be simple to test Mr. Gs recommendation. I won't call it theory or hypothesis at this point because Mr. G has already determined what works better for his grows.

 

[diggity]

great post Mr. Greengenes, one the better ones I've read here in awhile i think. i dig the approach as well

 

[skeeterpeep]

looks like i started sumthin here! lol. much good stuff. keep it comin guys!

peep

 

[skeeterpeep]

i,personally,think mr.greengenes may very well be right! i am trying out his obsevations. the only question i have is..what would the stage "late flowering" be?half way thru flowere? 3/4 ? and mr. greengenes, i believe i was the one who said the one closest to the light is stretchin like a maniac! with lighter buds as opposed to the ones on the outskirts of the light. this is why yer therory has got my attention. i hear and read a lot of common "has to be like this" kinda things and im one who looks a little deeper and thinks outta the box at times. cept for the hempy bucket thing! that stuff is off the hook! my next grow has two hempys in it so we'll see what results i get and compare to the soil grown ones. peace,buds,sex and happiness everyone!

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

Glad to see so many positive responses, and thanks for all those K points all! On OG circa '04-'06, I probably would have been flamed badly for airing such controversial ideas. This is very encouraging. I will be braver in the future.

"what would the stage "late flowering" be?half way thru flowere? 3/4 ?" I personally watch the water usage to determine when the plant starts to get 'light shy'. There's a period in early flowering when water use ramps way up as the buds swell and put on weight. Then one day the plant doesn't use as much water. It still might have a 'positive' looking attitude with new pistils still forming and leaves still straight out in the light, but the water use goes down a bit and never returns to the amount it was before. That's the signal that it doesn't need as much light.

Caring for an aging female plant is an art form in itself, especially if it is a long flowering strain. Breeders give flowering times, but I always see those times as a challenge to try and beat. It's true that some 'indicas' can't be held well into senescence with any technique, but most strains can be flowered longer with some chops. I've found that almost anything is better the longer you flower it. Trying to affect the high by the development of the trichomes is kind of moot because the genetics take huge precedent over the picking time in that area. In other words, if you want an 'up' high, it makes more sense to grow Durban Poison than to try to pick a couchlock-ey indica early. Longer flowering doesn't improve potency at all or yield much, but it does improve taste, smell and smoking quality.

 

[GDK]

Awesome thread!!

Stay Safe