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How to stop foxtailing?

Ca++

Well-known member
That second push isn't wanted, as the bud was meant to be finishing. Instead, over half way through flower, you have added more plant to flower and finish. Now when you crop, the initial flower formation will be old, or the new growth immature. Really what you wanted, was the first bud formations to come out the room finished on schedule. Then another room of gone in. The second push is a protracted fuck up. Stopping the grow from coming out, as you wait on a few rubbish bits to mature enough to smoke them. It's a total nightmare. The best answer is to chuck the new growth away.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I'll post up a pic in this post of the NLH tomorrow when the lights come on. I want to know if what it is doing is referred to as 'stacking'. Cause the bud sites are getting longer like they are a new stem of their own.

Edit: This stretchy NLH seems to be expanding the buds by making each one into it's own branch...

DSC01905.JPG
DSC01906.JPG
 
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VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
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@flylowgethigh
1, like others have said, you end up with buds/parts of buds that are at different ripeness, and with plants that are getting towards pure sativa you can get a situation where they just carry on making new calyxs pretty much forever.. at some poingt you want the plant to stop making new bud and for the existing buds to ripen and swell
2, You can't really completely deplete soil of N but you can avoid excess N, especially 'soluble' N by mixing the soil right (and feeding right) in the first place and making sure the roots have filled the pot during veg and early flower so that rootbinding helps starve the plant a bit too. Roots become less efficient at taking up N as the plant starts to ripen which also helps.
VG
 
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flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Filling the pot with roots is a nice gesture, but these Sativas have a way of wanting to be flipped, or they take over the tent. Maybe smaller pots is the secret.

I stop top-watering (feed) with nitrogen when I flip, and change to P and K. I also change the microbes to some that favor the P. But I have no clue about growing, and my plants lack trics and smells.

Shit's not easy as the farmer I used to buy from used to say.
 

goingrey

Well-known member
Filling the pot with roots is a nice gesture, but these Sativas have a way of wanting to be flipped, or they take over the tent. Maybe smaller pots is the secret.

I stop top-watering (feed) with nitrogen when I flip, and change to P and K. I also change the microbes to some that favor the P. But I have no clue about growing, and my plants lack trics and smells.

Shit's not easy as the farmer I used to buy from used to say.
How do you change the microbes? Do you have to first sterilize with hydrogen peroxide and then inoculate with the new microbes or something?
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Filling the pot with roots is a nice gesture, but these Sativas have a way of wanting to be flipped, or they take over the tent. Maybe smaller pots is the secret.

I stop top-watering (feed) with nitrogen when I flip, and change to P and K. I also change the microbes to some that favor the P. But I have no clue about growing, and my plants lack trics and smells.

Shit's not easy as the farmer I used to buy from used to say.
I remember i advised you to get them flowering strongly by using a 10/14 light cycle.. not sure if you did that, but it really helps.. (remember in the tropics you would get close to 12/12 all year round so the flowering response on that cycle can be slow or non-existent.)
I try to use as much soil and as large pots as possible.. but in the case of tropical sativa it might be worth it because reducing or stopping the N will have a bigger overall effect. They are tricky as y'man says.
Ive seen you say your plants lack trics and smells before.. without seeing you flower a strain that i am familiar with.. i couldn;t tell you whether than was down to genetics or user error.
VG
 

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