How to properly use a window for ventilation while maintaining security?

[RedXIII]

I see many people speak of using a window for either an intake or exhaust, or mounting a window a/c and using that. The thing I am wondering is how do you all do this and still maintain stealth and most importantly, security.

I can see maybe putting a board up over the window and cutting a hole in the board to connect ducting to. Then having some blinds between the board and window so it looks normal from the outside.

But the window must be open, and therefore, it is not very secure. Somebody could utilize this to break into the room, right? How do you all do this and make it secure? If mounting a window a/c, how do you put it in the window and make it stealth/secure? Thanks for your methods/input and helpin me out!

 

[Sauron The Blue]

lemme upload a pic for ya to help splain

basicly ya gonna cover the window/blinds with a sheet or two of plywood, build a frame around it first if you wanna extended the window out a bit (good for putting a light bulb in on timer so it gives appearance of room in use) . Then ya cut a hole in the plywood where ya want to mount the light trap. Build a box that has wooden baffles in it like in the pic, and mount it to the wall.

If you make the baffles 2/3 the length of the box opening then you will have excellent air flow and still block all the light. So on a 12" box opening, you want to make the baffles block about 8" of the opening.

 

[RedXIII]

Awesome man thanks for that light trap design it seems so simple now looking at it lol. The only other thing I was wondering about is having an open window and thus an entry for a possible intruder? I guess if its a window on a second story or more than that wouldn't be as much of a worry. Or maybe only keeping the window part way open and putting a stick in the window so it can not open more. Do you all keep your blinds completly shut, or partially open?

 

[imnotcrazy]

They make locks to add to a window when you install a window A/C unit.

Also another Idea I had was to find a broken A/C that was put out for trash. Gut the innards of the unit and use the outside case and tray in the window for stealth purposes.
Add a piece of plywood to connect your ducting(s) to. Any air noise coming from that window would be assumed to be coming from the "A/C" unit.

 

[Sauron The Blue]

Awesome man thanks for that light trap design it seems so simple now looking at it lol. The only other thing I was wondering about is having an open window and thus an entry for a possible intruder? I guess if its a window on a second story or more than that wouldn't be as much of a worry. Or maybe only keeping the window part way open and putting a stick in the window so it can not open more. Do you all keep your blinds completly shut, or partially open?

Thats what I do, I measure the radius of my exhaust vent, pi x r x r = 50.5, my window is about 2' tall, so if i crack it open three inches, it gives me a 72" surface area, which is more than adequate of an opening to flow that much air through without making any noisy turbulance. I dont worry so much about the breaking in part as its a window, they will just bust it if they want it that bad. Im more worried about vandals in some areas just out to cause a problem, throwin a brick/rock through the window and causin more headaches than they intended.

imnotcrazy- thats a pretty sweet/stealth idea, reminds me of gutting the catalytic converters and still passin the visual @ emissions testing.

 

[Grownz]

Glass can be cut and a purpose built vent installed. They have these in most bathroom departments at DIY stores. Used for exhausting steam out of the bathroom to stop mold/dampness.
Might not be such a great idea if you're not growing in a bathroom but its better than leaving the window open, even if you are using window latches/locks.

 

[Pimp Aurora]

lemme upload a pic for ya to help splain

basicly ya gonna cover the window/blinds with a sheet or two of plywood, build a frame around it first if you wanna extended the window out a bit (good for putting a light bulb in on timer so it gives appearance of room in use) . Then ya cut a hole in the plywood where ya want to mount the light trap. Build a box that has wooden baffles in it like in the pic, and mount it to the wall.

If you make the baffles 2/3 the length of the box opening then you will have excellent air flow and still block all the light. So on a 12" box opening, you want to make the baffles block about 8" of the opening.

I read that passive intakes should be 5x the size of your exhaust.. my baffle measures 21" deep x11" wide x30" tall and is mounted on the side of my drobe, works a charm, thats just for an rvk100 (4")

 

[Sauron The Blue]

I read that passive intakes should be 5x the size of your exhaust.. my baffle measures 21" deep x11" wide x30" tall and is mounted on the side of my drobe, works a charm, thats just for an rvk100 (4")

The numbers you read would apply to the normal exhaust/intake setup of a growroom, but were talkin about a box thats got a total volume of around a foot or two.

I have never heard of an intake opening needing to be 5x the size of the exhaust. I have read two-three times the size a few times, but five seems overkill to me. I have run numerous rooms using the setup I mentioned above with the window cracked just a bit and it works perfect everytime. No wooshing air sound, no blinds blowing in the wind and no whistling noises from air flow.

You cab's light trap is near the size of the one I currently use for a 13x10 grow room with near 4k and no ac. Flows air just fine without slightest sign of resistance. Mine is around 16" wide, 16" deep and 12" tall.