How to make a wharehouse grow work

[Lickitysplit]

Here's some pics

 

[MJINC]

Nice! Thanks
Any tips for the broad mites. The warehouse is only necessary if I ditch my current location I am wanting to just burn the plants clean and santize the room, do some heat treatments add some predatory mites and use the same space with new clones. The local pest management company said based on pics "I very likely have broad mites" But after the initial leaf twisting etc.. that happened there has been no more damage for about 10 days so I am hesitant to kill the plants although I'm probably just delaying the inevitable

Predatory mites will control the numbers till you get through the harvest and can do a full clean out. They'll eat your broad mites and won't harm your plants.

 

[KONY]

The building will need a minimum 2,000 amp service. This is fairly expensive to install and certify.
Buildings not used for gardening will not have enough, a high energy usage assembling or service building will not exceed 1,000 amps, tops. Close does not work and all will have to be torn out to install appropriate sized wiring.

Power is the major problem, venting is a bit more complex than in one end out the other but manageable. Floor drains are in place?

Gardening is a specific needs activity and doing it on a large scale depends on proper equipment. A building designed for other purposes is expensive and difficult to convert. It is not a matter of doing the same thing only larger and more of it. The dynamics are different.

It is being done though, and often. What worth doing has ever been easy?

Huh? The OP said the building was not even 2k sq ft. Could make 200 amps work in that area with a flipflop no problem,

400 would be better.

 

[HillMizer]

Use a loupe to look for broad mites, lots of threads and documentation on them. In Cali We deal with them and with hemp russets all the time and we don't burn our infrastructure everytime. We'd go out of business for sure.

Spiromesifin,abamectin, pylon, pyrethrin, pfr-97, met52 , venerate, diatomeceous earth, predator mites, essential oils, sulfur, prayer flags, and garden gnomes are all things that can be used. Some are better for quarantee than for production, safefy wise. If the space is emptied you can go nuts and kill anything in there.
Good luck, that's farming!

 

[queequeg152]

Nice! Thanks
Any tips for the broad mites. The warehouse is only necessary if I ditch my current location I am wanting to just burn the plants clean and santize the room, do some heat treatments add some predatory mites and use the same space with new clones. The local pest management company said based on pics "I very likely have broad mites" But after the initial leaf twisting etc.. that happened there has been no more damage for about 10 days so I am hesitant to kill the plants although I'm probably just delaying the inevitable

i spray my melons and toms with abamectin invariably at least once a year due to either broad mites, red mites, or 2 spotted spider mites. pre harvest interval is like 3 days or 2 weeks i cannot remember. 2 weeks might be for imidicloprid... id have to check my note book.

perhaps you should just spray the plants and sell it off as non organic or what ever.. spiromesafin is not rated for edible crops, only ornamental plants last i checked... but abamectin is only rated for the vegetables listed on the particular label as well, obiviously they dont list cannabis.

 

[Lickitysplit]

i spray my melons and toms with abamectin invariably at least once a year due to either broad mites, red mites, or 2 spotted spider mites. pre harvest interval is like 3 days or 2 weeks i cannot remember. 2 weeks might be for imidicloprid... id have to check my note book.

perhaps you should just spray the plants and sell it off as non organic or what ever.. spiromesafin is not rated for edible crops, only ornamental plants last i checked... but abamectin is only rated for the vegetables listed on the particular label as well, obiviously they dont list cannabis.

I am wanting to grow these plants to harvest and not kill them. 90 percent of them are looking healthy and half
plants that have the damage you can see above have new growth and it looks fairly healthy. Then I read all the horror stories online and start thinking I need to torch the room now and just start from scratch... I am only 3 weeks into veg so not that much time lost

 

[Lickitysplit]

Is the abamectin completely eradicating them? I am so early in veg if I can get rid of all of them now I should have no problems buy the time there in full flower

 

[Lickitysplit]

BTW the forum is Awesome! Tons of helpful tips

 

[Floridian]

I live in Fla and have fought the dreaded southern red spidermite a lot at first but I have found ways to keep them out.Look,you are still in veg and I'll say it again,a no pest strip will kill all those fuckers in 2 or 3 days and you will be done.I tried just about every other chemical mentioned here along with predator mite which wont work during 12/12 and barely work during 18/6.What you need is a no pest strip containing dichlorvous,especially since you are just in veg.I wouldn't hang them after 30 days of flower but that's just me.Many organic growers freak at the word dichlorvous,but I'm sure glad I was turned on to it.My first few years would have been a total disaster without it.It doesn't stay on the plants for long but it gets rid of the problem.Period.Do some research if the chemical gives you pause.Your mites hope and pray you ignore me lol.I have and always will take a beatdown by purists if I know I can help someone get rid of those fucks

 

[Floridian]

I forgot to mention,hang for 48 to 72 hours tops to kill every living mite on your girls.Wait 24 to 48 hours and hang for another 48 hours to kill any fuckwad hatchling that may have survived the initial invasion.You're done.This has never ever failed me.Many times I didn't need to hang them a second time

 

[Wendull C.]

Bust out the kontos on those bastards.

 

[HillMizer]

i spray my melons and toms with abamectin invariably at least once a year due to either broad mites, red mites, or 2 spotted spider mites. pre harvest interval is like 3 days or 2 weeks i cannot remember. 2 weeks might be for imidicloprid... id have to check my note book.

perhaps you should just spray the plants and sell it off as non organic or what ever.. spiromesafin is not rated for edible crops, only ornamental plants last i checked... but abamectin is only rated for the vegetables listed on the particular label as well, obiviously they dont list cannabis.

Oberon and Judo are spiromesifin products for editble crops. PHI is 5-30 days depending on crop.

Still in veg? Of heck yeah kill the bugs. Never wait not 1 day before you take action. Not for mites not mildew not anything. When you notice a pathogen you type it in that google window or call a friend and make a move THAT day. Thats what it takes, I've gone in with sponges and buckets to wash 1000 square foot because it's the best thing I could think of at the time.

Folks are using venerate along with regalia for organic means. Something about regalia boosting immunity. Venerate is a bioinsecticide

 

[James Howlett]

I run four 20'x20' rooms with 9-12 lights each on a flip in my warehouse. All rooms are sealed with their own 5-ton AC in each. Oh and my service is only 200Amps. Each room uses 75-80 Amps at full power.

Just build some walls up to the ceiling and spray foam all the gaps. Rigid foam board works great. The 2" has the same insulation as normal fiberglass insulation. With 20k you can build a 20'x20' to start with. Don't try doing to much in the beginning because unexpected expenses do come up. Take it slow and expand later.

 

[Reaper]

You will not need a particularly large exhaust fan. Since your building is so large, those 20 lights will have a hard time heating up that place.
Regarding your mite problem, just buy Avid and Floramite. Apply once a week for 2-3 weeks. The mites wont stand a chance. Just dont apply to close to harvest.

 

[Beastmode]

Not to hi jack this thread but how much cooling is needed for a 50k room and is 100k room just double of the 50k cooling requirements.

 

[James Howlett]

For 50 lights youre gonna want at least 20tons of AC probably a bit more to be safe.

 

[queequeg152]

50 lights = 50 kwh.

50kwh to btuh = 14.65 tons not 20.

you need at least 15 tons + external heat gain.

 

[Spaventa]

You will not need a particularly large exhaust fan. Since your building is so large, those 20 lights will have a hard time heating up that place.

I agree. I would hang the lights, run them and see what its like and approximate the cooling requirement based on temperature change over time in the proposed grow space. You could hire fans to find the spec you need to invest in. Might be cheaper than either over or underestimating, wasting time, buying twice etc.

 

[James Howlett]

50 lights = 50 kwh.

50kwh to btuh = 14.65 tons not 20.

you need at least 15 tons + external heat gain.

I dont know where youre getting that calculation from but thats just not enough.

From real world experience running sealed rooms, you want at least 5k btu per non air cooled 1000w light. I run 12 lights max off a 5ton AC. Theres no way id try to run 16+.

You always want to oversize a bit with AC, especially in a commercial space.

20tons minimum for 50kw. 25 would be better.

 

[PdxFarms]

I dont know where youre getting that calculation from but thats just not enough.

From real world experience running sealed rooms, you want at least 5k btu per non air cooled 1000w light. I run 12 lights max off a 5ton AC. Theres no way id try to run 16+.

You always want to oversize a bit with AC, especially in a commercial space.

20tons minimum for 50kw. 25 would be better.

If you use proper sized fans to cool your hoods... And a quality ac setup, I'd say more like 2500-3000btu per cooled 1000w light.
I've been running a 24k btu daikin cooling 8- 1000w lights in 1500cf sealed rooms for years without an issue.
Recently setup 2- 24k btu daikins with 15k watt lights sealed in a 6000cf room and can bring my temps down as low as 64 if I wanted on a 100 degree day. That's no bs. No exhaust, fully sealed.


Don't get me wrong, over kill isn't a bad thing and is ideal but no need to spend twice as much as you need if you do it right.

Use quality exhaust fans. I use a 700cfm 8" max fan cooling each row of 5. Which by most standards would be considered under powered. But I can put my face on the hood glass no problem and bring my plants within 10-12 inches without any heat issues and hold a efficient canopy temp. Lung room with steady 70 degree is the key. And air moving fans keeping even air temps throughout the canopy.