i keep my moms in beercups and i can / well really i have to trim them every week or 2. so depending on the size of your clones when you usually keep them in anything from a beer cup or larger.
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How to Clone. <=+][Sticky This Sheeet][+=>
- Thread starter stihgnobevoli
- Start date
Not to threadjack, but others may want a simpler alternative:
Supplies: 1.5" rockwool cubes, cheap propagation dome *, 2 18" fluorescent tubes (shop lights from Home DePot are fine), something to take cuttings with (scissors, razor, whatever).
1) Obviously you'll have to build your cloning area, hang the lights, etc. This is your business, go about it however you like. Just make sure the fluorescent tubes sit an inch or so above the tray when the dome is on.
2) Submerge as many cubes as you'll need (tap water, bottled water, well water, whatever). I suggest you go for at least 50% overage. That is, if you want 10 rooted cuttings, drop 15 cubes into the water. 100% overage is better.
3) Snip off a viable cutting**, trim off excess foliage*** and stick it into the hole in a cube (you want the stem to go all the way to the bottom of the cube, or close to it, whichever's your preference. If the cuts are not very big and robust, you'll probably have to use a bit of wire or something to expand the hole a bit) . Put the cube into the tray.
4) Repeat 3 until all your cubes have cuts in them, and have been placed in the tray. Place the dome over the tray, and put the whole thing under the lights.
5) Check daily to make sure the cubes are moist. Be more worried about under-watering than over-watering, but in my experience, if the cloner is in a climate-controlled area, you won't need to water the cubes for a week. Once they start rooting, they can need water once every 3 days or so. After about 10-14 days, start using a fork to pull the cubes of the stronger-looking cuts up out of their squares so you can check for roots. After 21 days, you should have enough rooted clones for your needs, if you had enough overage.
Total cost, about 15 bucks for the propagation dome and the cubes.
* You'll have to pick your own dome. PLH changes what they carry constantly, and I've already got several more than I need so it's not my problem any more. You may be better off going to Wally World or something, so you can see what you're buying. What you want is something with a bunch of square holes that will take your 1.5" rockwool starter cubes. The ones I have are all two-tray design. The top tray has 6 squares by 12, and goes into the bottom tray which is just a big rectangle to catch water. Then there's a clear dome which sits on top and keeps humidity up.
** If you don't know what a viable cutting is, read around, as that's beyond the scope of this guide. This is one of those things that's common to almost all cloning techniques.
*** If you don't know what excess foliage is, read around, as that's beyond the scope of this guide. This is one of those things that's common to almost all cloning techniques.
PS, I like stih's advice on foggy dome vs. not foggy. Everyone's conditions will be different, so this kind of thing should be tailored to the specific grow. I live in a hot, humid climate, but my cloner is in an air-conditioned room and my cuts do better with the dome on (AC dehumidifies the air). I clone without hormones, or special cutting methods, or making the cut underwater, or any of this stuff. IME it's just a waste of time, but YMMV. I usually don't get below 80% success rate. This stuff is also strain-dependent. I got better success rates with my previous strain, but the yields and smoke weren't as good.
Supplies: 1.5" rockwool cubes, cheap propagation dome *, 2 18" fluorescent tubes (shop lights from Home DePot are fine), something to take cuttings with (scissors, razor, whatever).
1) Obviously you'll have to build your cloning area, hang the lights, etc. This is your business, go about it however you like. Just make sure the fluorescent tubes sit an inch or so above the tray when the dome is on.
2) Submerge as many cubes as you'll need (tap water, bottled water, well water, whatever). I suggest you go for at least 50% overage. That is, if you want 10 rooted cuttings, drop 15 cubes into the water. 100% overage is better.
3) Snip off a viable cutting**, trim off excess foliage*** and stick it into the hole in a cube (you want the stem to go all the way to the bottom of the cube, or close to it, whichever's your preference. If the cuts are not very big and robust, you'll probably have to use a bit of wire or something to expand the hole a bit) . Put the cube into the tray.
4) Repeat 3 until all your cubes have cuts in them, and have been placed in the tray. Place the dome over the tray, and put the whole thing under the lights.
5) Check daily to make sure the cubes are moist. Be more worried about under-watering than over-watering, but in my experience, if the cloner is in a climate-controlled area, you won't need to water the cubes for a week. Once they start rooting, they can need water once every 3 days or so. After about 10-14 days, start using a fork to pull the cubes of the stronger-looking cuts up out of their squares so you can check for roots. After 21 days, you should have enough rooted clones for your needs, if you had enough overage.
Total cost, about 15 bucks for the propagation dome and the cubes.
* You'll have to pick your own dome. PLH changes what they carry constantly, and I've already got several more than I need so it's not my problem any more. You may be better off going to Wally World or something, so you can see what you're buying. What you want is something with a bunch of square holes that will take your 1.5" rockwool starter cubes. The ones I have are all two-tray design. The top tray has 6 squares by 12, and goes into the bottom tray which is just a big rectangle to catch water. Then there's a clear dome which sits on top and keeps humidity up.
** If you don't know what a viable cutting is, read around, as that's beyond the scope of this guide. This is one of those things that's common to almost all cloning techniques.
*** If you don't know what excess foliage is, read around, as that's beyond the scope of this guide. This is one of those things that's common to almost all cloning techniques.
PS, I like stih's advice on foggy dome vs. not foggy. Everyone's conditions will be different, so this kind of thing should be tailored to the specific grow. I live in a hot, humid climate, but my cloner is in an air-conditioned room and my cuts do better with the dome on (AC dehumidifies the air). I clone without hormones, or special cutting methods, or making the cut underwater, or any of this stuff. IME it's just a waste of time, but YMMV. I usually don't get below 80% success rate. This stuff is also strain-dependent. I got better success rates with my previous strain, but the yields and smoke weren't as good.
That is literally the most nuts thing i've ever heard.
i dunno who told you that but it's all lies.
reveg on left, clone that started as a bud on right.
look close and you might make out a pistil or a calyx.
reveg on left, clone that started as a bud on right.
look close and you might make out a pistil or a calyx.
in my own experience, which may conflict with what other people have heard, you can take a clone at just about any time. your least successful cuts are gonna be the ones that have firm woody stems. if you can't twist the cutting into a circle without it snapping in half it's most likely not gonna root.
if you cut a bud like i did.
similar to this one. you just need to make sure it has enough stem an inch or more long to bury. clone it like you would any other clone. the buds/calyxes are just leaves repurposed for reproduction. they will stretch out and turn back into leaves after a while, like that reveg plant.
^^^
if you cut a bud like i did.
similar to this one. you just need to make sure it has enough stem an inch or more long to bury. clone it like you would any other clone. the buds/calyxes are just leaves repurposed for reproduction. they will stretch out and turn back into leaves after a while, like that reveg plant.
^^^
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- Latest: VerdantGreen