How much to fix my pH?

[sproutco]

Natural...I would be hesitant to dose my plants with something that is formulated to break down the wood in old tree stumps.

The reason it contains potassium nitrate is that microorganisms require nitrogen to function in attacking high carbon containing wood. Google how a compost pile works and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. This is a great fert. 100% nitrate nitrogen won't burn even tender seedlings and there is 0% chance of ammonia toxicity common in potting soils.

 

[vavwl]

your pH is to high if its 8.2.. you're getting a nutrient lockup with it that high. Buy a pH pen and get your pH down, then hope for the best. You'll save yourself a lot of pain in the future if you spend the money on a electronic pH pen.

 

[CaptJamesTKirk]

The reason it contains potassium nitrate is that microorganisms require nitrogen to function in attacking high carbon containing wood. This is a great fert. 100% nitrate nitrogen won't burn even tender seedlings and there is 0% chance of ammonia toxicity common in potting soils.

sproutcrapo - it's also in a solution that must be diluted very carefully - that in it's self is the problem.

like PH down instead of sulferic acid - a few drops too many and it's a problem you won't have to deal with - but somebody else will. To say nothing of the potential hazard these chemicals can pose.

Lets remember,, there are a LOT of loaders here - some are NOT good canidadates for basic chemistry let alone read and understand MSDS - and possess basic saftey equiptment -

TONS OF POTENTIAL FOR DISASTER _ EVEN IF YOU WERE RIGHT, which dosen't happen as often as you profess

Sorry bout the garden personalsmoke - hindsight is 20/20

do a search on stump remover - and sproutco is the one proponant - - - hmmmmmmmmmmmm


that 8.+ PH will not work at all. You will need to invest in a PH tester - and you NEED a decent one - the $7.99 "probe" won't solve anything - look on eBay - here's a nice new Hana, delivered to your door for less than $60

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hanna-pHep4-Dig...QQihZ007QQcategoryZ117435QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

make sure you get the calibration fluids - good tools ain't worth squat if they are not accurate

 

[stonewall]

my plants love the KNO3! as a matter of fact i need to go get more!

Thanks sproutco!

some of you guys need to find something better to do than follow sprout around and try to tear him down.

it is obvious you are not up to the task.

 

[sproutco]

sproutcrapo - it's also in a solution that must be diluted very carefully - that in it's self is the problem.

Its not a solution ...its a prill. Google potassium nitrate aquariums. They make their own ferts alot of times for aquatic plants.

 

[CaptJamesTKirk]

my plants love the KNO3! as a matter of fact i need to go get more!

Thanks sproutco!

some of you guys need to find something better to do than follow sprout around and try to tear him down.

You need to quit handing out neg rep because you don't agree with someones post. Lest you hope to recieve the same ten fold

For this one success - I can show you twenty failures; even a blind pig finds a truffel sometimes, count youself lucky

 

[stonewall]

it is obviously beyond the lame capt.'s level of comprehension

 

[sproutco]

Calculations for using stump remover

Calculations for using stump remover

1 teaspoon potassium nitrate = 5.6 grams

Lets feed his plants 150 ppm nitrogen.

150 x 3.8 x 7.69 = 4.4 grams per gallon of water

4.4/5.6 = .78 teaspoons or about 3/4 teaspoon per gallon of water.

For seedlings use about 3/8 teaspoon per gallon or 75 ppm nitrogen.

You can use this handy calculator to figure the same thing http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_...ixppm=0.02+ppm+Nitrate&targetppm=5ppm+Nitrate

 

[Suby]

Remember kids, reputation does not make a good grower, that's why I turned that shit off.

I usually stay clear of the cannabis infirmary because it's hard to gauge where someone went wrong and make a firm assumption on what should be done.

You used organic soil with semi organic ferts which is usually an easy mix to keep healthy but you have to cover your bases with the primary mix.
The FF soil is very rich so should be cut with perlite (30%) and use dolomite lime @ 2TBS per gallon of soil mix although that doesn't help you now does it? lol

Alright so I'm assuming your feeding liquid ferts once followed by 2 plain waterings which flush salts and keep things balanced (ph adjusted because you don't have any lime), if not your probably experiencing one of a few things, lockout from imbalance elements or ph range being whacked out or you have a soil toxicity problem.

I do think you have multiple small things happening that COULD be fucking things up.
First off the amount of soil is too little, more soil buffers ph and elements better than not enough so a transplant into alot of soil will help alot, you can't go wrong with more soil.

For the love of Christ do not cut the rootzone, this is not a bonsai mom or a vegging plant so that's a NO NO.

Also I noticed your using RO water, while RO water is good for hydro I find it lacking in minerals compared to tap water.
Hard water is actually an asset in soil growing because it contains calcium and magnesium and other mineral which buffer your ph, RO does not as it contains no minerals.
I would use tap water that has been standing for 24hrs unless the water quality of your tap is really bad, if so mix it half/half with RO.
RO is pure water so dissolves agressively which is great for hydro nutes but ho-hum for organic-ish gardening.

Limus paper is hands down the best method of testing ph because they are always 100% right, no calibrating or storage solution or some other shit, just buy ones with a fuller range of testing like 4-8, they are cheap and widely availble so fuck meters.
Besides once you get your recipe rocking you'll stop checking ph, God knows it's been awhile for me.

I would flush the hell out of those girls with un-adjusted tap water, wait 2 days, then delicately transplant into a mix with alot of perlite and feed very lightly with an adjusted solution (~6.0), that will delicately reset your plant with no products that could further cloud things.

Peace

Suby

 

[Verite]

Thanks for pointing that out suby, after listening to all the fert stuff this guys been throwing at it and the fact his run off is still dropping kinda points to a salt buildup in the medium. Imo any of those ferts with parts in the 40's and 50's is like using salty chem poison.

 

[Suby]

Hey V,

Agreed, if it's bottled all in one it's not organic and it builds up in soil, no question there.
I never think looking to a bottle of some shit as being a solution to a problem.
Then again you have your recipe dialed in an you recycle your soil if I am not mistaken.

Peace

 

[kokua]

my plants love the KNO3! as a matter of fact i need to go get more!

Thanks sproutco!

some of you guys need to find something better to do than follow sprout around and try to tear him down.

it is obvious you are not up to the task.

its not the KNO3 that is bad...it is the fact that stump remover is a low grade of KNO3, below fertilizer grade...and often times is not the only ingredient. This is a product that is used to accelerate the decomposition of tree stumps. The amount of potassium nitrate present in this product undoubtedly varies from brand to brand (in fact, some brands are not potassium nitrate based, and are useless as fertilizer, such as BonideTM Stump-Out). Additives may also be present in stump-remover to enhance the effectiveness. Sodium Hydroxide maybe?

It's not that Sproutco is bad...it is that even if you could find a high grade (pure) stump remover the only person who could possibly tell you how to dose that properly would be sproutco and Chuck's Planted Aquarium Pages...and I wouldn't trust either's application rates as neither have tested on cannabis.

 

[kokua]

I think that link should tell you every thing you need to know...The source of sproutco's application rates is a fucking calculator on an aquarium website.

 

[kokua]

The reason it contains potassium nitrate is that microorganisms require nitrogen to function in attacking high carbon containing wood. Google how a compost pile works and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. This is a great fert. 100% nitrate nitrogen won't burn even tender seedlings and there is 0% chance of ammonia toxicity common in potting soils.

I know how composting works.. I am a gardener, not a bookworm! ...and the quality of potassium nitrate required for stump removal and composting is not same quality as is required to be fertilizer grade...this is the problem I have with the advice. Advising someone that already has a sick plant to dose with a poor grade fertilizer type product, that undoubtedly has imputities and addatives that could potentially harm the plants futher is a mistake. How's that for a runon sentence

 

[Natural]

Thanks alot for all the responces!

After reading some of the responces about the stump remover... I'm hesetant(sp?) to apply.
I did however flush each plant with 2 gallons of water though.

Thanks for pointing that out suby, after listening to all the fert stuff this guys been throwing at it and the fact his run off is still dropping kinda points to a salt buildup in the medium. Imo any of those ferts with parts in the 40's and 50's is like using salty chem poison.

I've only used that "Beastie Bloomz" once, at 1/2 strength... that was 5-10 days or so before I got into this problem I'm having now though. The rest of my ferts are all foxfarm, some organic some not... Big bloom, tiger bloom, and grow big is all they've been getting except for that 1 time usage of beastie bloomz.



BTW, Thanks for the long, informative post Suby.

I would flush the hell out of those girls with un-adjusted tap water, wait 2 days, then delicately transplant into a mix with alot of perlite and feed very lightly with an adjusted solution (~6.0), that will delicately reset your plant with no products that could further cloud things.

Peace

Suby

Flushed them.
Can I knock some of the dirt off the bottom of the root ball lightly? I absolutely cannot fit any bigger pots in my grow cab... the only way I could add more soil is to knock some of the old soil off (not going to be much) and put some new in...




I hope my plants recover... this is my first time growing Quick mist and I am depending on this harvest to determine if I am going to keep her or not!




Thanks again guys!

 

[Guest]

If you have been watering with an 8.2 ph thats a problem.

 

[Suby]

Hey Natural,

Forget the BeastieBloom when using FF ferts until you have an initial recipe that works for you. FF are excellent products and are a good strat for a grower looking to go towards organic or benefit from the organic cycle in their semi-organic grows.

You really need more soil, you cannot go cheap here unless you are running SOG.
As you have said already you have no room and that plant isn't so big as to ensure failure so you have 2 options, you can shake the rootbal lightly and replace it with good soil.
Remember that roots also grow down if you pop the rootbal and add alot of soil underneath the initial rootbal it will grow into the lower area of soil no problems there.
BOG works on a method of using a more vertical root and pot setup and he had spectacular results.
I usually flower 3ft plants in a 5 gallon paint container and it's ALWAYS full of roots.
If you see it is really rootbound then you'll know where you went wrong.
So yeah if height is not a problem build up.



S

 

[10k]

Natural,
After reading this thread I must agree with the advice given by jesusbuiltmygrow and subby. You will run into some rootboundness in 1 gallon growbags for sure, if you're grow has no room to go larger pots, the only good option is to stack the bagged plants upward similar to bogs double potting method as subby pointed out.

As for the 8.2 tap water, I would adjust it downward to 6.5'ish as mentioned by octodium and others.

Regarding your initial question though, you did see a pH improvement after watering in a teaspoon of dol lime. repeating the dol would have been worthwhile as I had suggested. But hell yea, get a decent meter or get some litmus paper thats within range so you dont have to make anymore guesses on pH.

The yellowing off you are seeing, 'if its mostly the oldest leaves' is TOTALLY normal at this point in flowering and a major mistake to be trying to treat it. Often this early yellowing off is exaggerated when the plants are forced into the blooming ferts too soon in the begining of flowering, but please DO NOT go hitting them with big N like sproutco is pushing here. In mid to late flowering now, so its too late for any worries over slight premature old leaf yellowings.

If the yellowing progresses beyond the scope of a normal flowering mj plant, say upwards into or towards the bud leaves and not just the bog old fans and lower poorly lit limbs, then it is most likely happening because of the rootboundness as jbmg pointed out.

Sproutco's STUMP REMOVER again... arrrrgh!
Now in mid to late flowering, you DO NOT want to be attempting to push the N. Sproutco ought to be ashamed of himself for trying to get people to dose their plants with potassium nitrate drenches on flowering plants. I am seeing an ever increasing frustration of the members here with sproutcos turbo posted writings. arrrrgh sproutco, lighten up on the wierd science eh.

hth

 

[Guest]

Sometimes I feel like sproutco might be LEO. He is pretty much telling people how to kill their plants Either that or cant grow a decent plant himself so he wants to ruin everybody else's plants

Btw,
sorry to thread jack but who's the real troll here??

whoever gave me neg rep for this post I just wanna know why? It pretty much sounds close to the truth. Dont ya think??

 

[CaptJamesTKirk]

Those that can, DO
Those that can't...... TEACH.

And brag about thier education NOT thier skills or abilitites.
and give neg. rep for giving fair warning on their bassackwarkds ways
and post links in signature to appear to be the authority


nuf said
we now return control of this thread and wish you all a great and growing year!

One to beam up.