how much extra cal mag do ogs like?

[JetLife175]

In my feeding schedule I use 5ml/gal of calmag in veg, and up to 7ml per gallon in flower.

I haven't messed with my recipe for running OGs in over a decade and it ALWAYS knocks it out the park.

 

[EExtinct]

In my feeding schedule I use 5ml/gal of calmag in veg, and up to 7ml per gallon in flower.

I haven't messed with my recipe for running OGs in over a decade and it ALWAYS knocks it out the park.

Do you share your feeding schedule?

 

[Ca++]

Y'all might wanna ask if Ca or Mg tied up with bicarbonate ever becomes available to the plant

Edit...if it does please show me the chemical equation

Acid will make you see things

 

[PlastikeRubba]

Do you share your feeding schedule?

Nah he don't share shit

Acid will make you see things

I don't believe in bicarbonate. If it binds with calcium it turns solid so there is no such thing as calcium bicarbonate in water.

 

[Ca++]

Nah he don't share shit




I don't believe in bicarbonate. If it binds with calcium it turns solid so there is no such thing as calcium bicarbonate in water.

It's a solid in suspension.

Nitric is a good acid to use. It will release the carbon as bubbles, while forming calcium nitrate. A useful product.

Phosphoric acid is less use. Calcium phosphate.

Someone was talking battery acid, making themselves calcium sulphate

logic prevails here.

 

[JetLife175]

It's a solid in suspension.

Nitric is a good acid to use. It will release the carbon as bubbles, while forming calcium nitrate. A useful product.

Phosphoric acid is less use. Calcium phosphate.

Someone was talking battery acid, making themselves calcium sulphate

logic prevails here.

Nitrates are a natural part of the cycle and essential to regulating plant growth and feeding. Probably one of if not the best available compounds for bio availability in plants.

 

[I Care]

I just read about my nearest avalable source of calmag. It’s General Organics CaMg+. The contents are made of “…oyster shell, dolomite lime and natural plant extracts…” ,”…fermented calcium and magnesium complexed with organic acids and sugar chelates”, “Derived from: Calcium Carbonate and Magnesium Nitrate”

From the discussion, it sounds like this is more of just a magnesium supplement.

That the GH Flora Micro with calcium nitrate is my main source of water soluble calcium. I use them both at a low rate about 1ml/gallon.

I do get the phosphorous deficiency in new growth, directly beneath the light, at the top of the canopy. Then I also get the lower nutrient deficiencies too with yellowing. This is only when start running out of ceiling height and the light is really cooking on the tops.


I wonder if the final answer to this is that it depends on the power and distance of your light source, the depth of your canopy and your average pH across waterings.

This is the most valuable thing I can offer based on my own issues and using a high in peat moss soil blend. This chart suggests that any increased demand for phosphorous, calcium, magnesium and even moly may be seen in even mildest acidic root environments. Possible even so simple to ensure you have engineered an appropriate pH swing near neutral in your irrigation practices to deal with any issues you develop or have expectation for.



Here’s the visual that individual demands may be partially addressed by regulating your solution/substrate pH balance/swings. Stole from internet.

This chart does suggest that inevitably plants will experince some sort of nutrient requirement. Maybe’s avoidable with the well timed swings between 6.5 and 7.5. Raise for a while to promote P, Ca, Mg, Mo. swing lower for a while for the Fe, B, Cu, Zn. All just using your water, minding substrate or swings in a recirculating system where applicable.

In my own final conclusion the balance of your grow media and your nutrient solution are working in sync. Say you have materials that aren’t fully composted and get deficiencies related to high pH and even ammonia shock symptoms requiring acidic waterings. Then low pH maybe from well rotted materials benefiting from alkaline watering. Having differing deficiencies if left to dry out between appropriately pH’d watering. Differences in genetic origin likely to have differing pH preferences as the OP suggested. Possibly not even relating to differing nutrient demands, just pH. A strain originated from a forrested area liking more acid root zone while others from arid regions possibly preferring the neutral or alkaline root zone. This is my current thoughts on the subject.

 

[Ca++]

If P is a common issue for you, then increasing your pH above 6 may help.
The chart reflects how feeds formulated for pH5.8 would contain more than a feed formulated for pH6.3 where the P contained is more readily available.
The chart doesn't suggest we constantly swing the pH as many have said. The chart aids us to find the right pH to suit our grow. Or if we can't change the pH, we can see what feed adjustments might be necessary.
All I have seen from papers, is that a steady state is better. We never read a cannabis study where the pH is being changed as part of the method. The pH a feed is formulated for, is generally on the bottle, and not a wide sweeping range, but within 0.2 typically.

Sweeping down to the low 5s is lowering the availability of the major components. We run around 5.8 for Iron, but actually when we talk specifically about cannabis, Iron isn't difficult for it to get. Thus Bugbee runs about pH6.2 and I myself set tanks around 5.8 and let them drift up to about 6.3 and feel happy anywhere in that window.