What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

How do you make your BHO less sticky??

Double F

Member
Is this mostly related to the vac purge and low heat, longer timeframe exposure or something else? I run a basic setup, have SS and glass tubes that i run high quality trim and nugs in, my last batches have been with 5x refined but i get the same results with 7x...

Almost every batch of oil i make comes out super sticky, to the point where its hard to handle. the initial product is always very viscous and sticks to everything it touches, like handling stickyglue...when i freeze it will shatter and splinter off everywhere, then those small fragments immediately melt and become impossible to remove. at room temperature it will turn into a sticky goopy mess, very hard to put into smaller vials or handle on scales...

i want the wax consistency to be buttery in texture, pliable and maleable, touchable without all the stickyness and shards flying everywhere



a friend recently made some buttery pliable wax and said he does it by doing a low temp 125f purge for 4+ hours. i just do hot a few water purges, scrape onto parchment and then leave it in the sun for 5-8hours..

the only time i ever got my wax to be non sticky to the touch was when i sun purged for 4-5 days....
 

hobb3s93

Member
ya i just did a sunpurge yestrday, turned some nice sap into oily crumble. worked preety quick but i beleive thats because its was really high quality.
most people one here or on youtube have great results making honeycomb with a metal vacuum chamber and long purge around 120f i beleive.
i dont have a metal chamber but in my experience after a few heated vac purges(i use a soufle dish) it becomes alot more handleable.
are u whipping it when it is liquid? how long do u hot water purge it for after u sprayed it? how old and dry is ur material?
do u vac purge it?
 

Double F

Member
thanks for advice...the material is a mix of old and fresh, dont see too much difference.


im not whipping it when liquid, should i be doing that? i heard that this traps in more of the butane gas..

i will hot water purge it for a good 20-30 minutes at a time

i dont have a vac purge setup...dont really want to invest in one since i dont make much oil. but looks like i might have to do that or borrow a friends.
 

whiteberrieS

Roots - Bloody Roots
Veteran
Look up a wax tutorial...All you need is your oil, your purge plate and a heat source. Haven't done it myself so I can't really say but it's basically just whipping it when it's @100-120 until it becomes wax...Tried it with QWISO but QWISO's not the same. Whipping releases more butane, doesn't trap it.
 

hobb3s93

Member
thanks for advice...the material is a mix of old and fresh, dont see too much difference.


im not whipping it when liquid, should i be doing that? i heard that this traps in more of the butane gas..

i will hot water purge it for a good 20-30 minutes at a time

i dont have a vac purge setup...dont really want to invest in one since i dont make much oil. but looks like i might have to do that or borrow a friends.

well first off , i would start separting ur material and see if u get some new results. the fresher materiel will give you a lighter, and IMO most of the time more stabile product.

i think ur problem is in ur purging method honestly. if ur end result is about a gram u should hot water purge for 30min. otherwise u prolly wanna go longer.

as for vacuum chamber, theres some pretty cheap options u could look into such as foodsaver or handpump for small amounts, although ive never tried either.

but if not i would hot water purge it for aslong as u see fit, then whip then let it sit for a couple days if ur looking for crumbly consistency. without a vac or even with im sure there will be someone on here to point out thats theres gna be butane left.
its all up to u. hope this helps
cheers
 

ZombieLabs

Member
As far as getting more stable bho, or even shatter...I find it has a lot to do with the amount of butane sprayed through the column. I was spraying too much tane a while back, and was getting a lot of goo instead of shatter. I recommend (and probably a few other people) stopping the butane as soon as it goes from amber color to clear. The more tane you spray, the more undesirables you'll start to pull out.

What brand of tane are you running? Another really important thing to find one with an MSDS that your satisfied with..

You can then take all your material that has been ran once and repack it in your column and spray it again (probably another time after that too?) The second yield is decent, usually much more relaxed, couch lock stone with the 2nd run.

If you start with really fresh material, make sure you freeze it for a day or 2.. If the moisture isnt completely tied up when you extract, it'll end up in your final product...bringing with it some color, or just a shorter shelf life (shatter goes wax)

Vac purge is pretty necessary if your messing with BHO, otherwise you'd probably save yourself some time and a head ache if you just got some bubble bags for solventless wax

Here's some bho I made, mostly small buds and trim, mixed strains. Shatter Shatter

 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The most common things leaving the oil sticky, is retained solvent or decarboxylation. Given your purging method, I suspect the former. Once you form a skin, the remaining solvent has a hard time exiting.

Old material can be partially decarboxylated and using too much heat can decarboxylate material.

We get the most reliable results producing shatter, using younger material and vacuum purging in a thin film at 115F and -29.5" Hg.
 

Double F

Member
yes i have recently changed my methods similar to how you do GW. less tane, thinner sheets, purged in my new vac oven for 12-24 hours depending. i am finally beginning to see textures that i like. i have been doing more and more wax lately, wish all the rubber maids full of trim lying around its been a blessing. demand is through the roof for concentrates and its definitely a good source of additional revenue.

the next step is a de-waxing kit.
 

SoggyCashew

New member
As far as getting more stable bho, or even shatter...I find it has a lot to do with the amount of butane sprayed through the column. I was spraying too much tane a while back, and was getting a lot of goo instead of shatter. I recommend (and probably a few other people) stopping the butane as soon as it goes from amber color to clear. The more tane you spray, the more undesirables you'll start to pull out.

What brand of tane are you running? Another really important thing to find one with an MSDS that your satisfied with..

You can then take all your material that has been ran once and repack it in your column and spray it again (probably another time after that too?) The second yield is decent, usually much more relaxed, couch lock stone with the 2nd run.

If you start with really fresh material, make sure you freeze it for a day or 2.. If the moisture isnt completely tied up when you extract, it'll end up in your final product...bringing with it some color, or just a shorter shelf life (shatter goes wax)

Vac purge is pretty necessary if your messing with BHO, otherwise you'd probably save yourself some time and a head ache if you just got some bubble bags for solventless wax

Here's some bho I made, mostly small buds and trim, mixed strains. Shatter Shatter


too much butane can cause sap.


I know this post is old but I have a sap issue and i think im using way to much tane. I have tried 5 different times and every time its sap. I run two 420ml cans for 30g of flower.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top