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How do YOU charge your bio-char?
- Thread starter CannaRed
- Start date
Well...hmmm...chewing on some hat. I have to admit that the last time I researched biochar was about 4 years ago when I started making my own rice hull biochar (which I still make and use successfully). It seems that since then the terminology has shifted a bit toward the idea that "biochar" is char that is intended for use in the soil, whether "charged" or not. I find this usage less useful since it fails to distinguish between charcoal and biochar except in their intended usage, and leaves us needing to distinguish between "charged" and "raw". Careful reading of several sources indicates that there is not a clear agreement regarding terminology at this point, however.
"... if “biochar” is used as a fuel, i.e., it is burned and the carbon is transformed (oxidized) into CO2, it is actually classified as charcoal."
www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/10/2/182/pdf
I found this reading very useful and I think it helps give an idea about the historical and current distinctions between charcoal, biochar and activated carbon.
How about char that is added to animal feedstock, then composted along with the manure. That would be "charged".
https://www.biochar-journal.org/en/ct/9
I would still rather use biochar from my worm bin than "raw" from a bag that is intended for use in the soil.
"... if “biochar” is used as a fuel, i.e., it is burned and the carbon is transformed (oxidized) into CO2, it is actually classified as charcoal."
www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/10/2/182/pdf
I found this reading very useful and I think it helps give an idea about the historical and current distinctions between charcoal, biochar and activated carbon.
How about char that is added to animal feedstock, then composted along with the manure. That would be "charged".
https://www.biochar-journal.org/en/ct/9
I would still rather use biochar from my worm bin than "raw" from a bag that is intended for use in the soil.
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Lost in a SOG
GrassSnakeGenetics
No it's poorly codified, probably because of most gardeners general ignorance of soil properties and dynamics. Organic growers are also often averse to branding and buying too many random products.
"biochar" is like you say just charcoal produced with the intention of using as a soil amendment. I always thought it had to be pre inocculated with mycorrhiza to be called that.
Maybe char soaked in something could be classed as "pre-charged biochar"?
I still think that soaking the biochar would create a more monoculture microbiome around the biochar in the soil as a pose to adding to a mix weeks before hand and cooking in..
"biochar" is like you say just charcoal produced with the intention of using as a soil amendment. I always thought it had to be pre inocculated with mycorrhiza to be called that.
Maybe char soaked in something could be classed as "pre-charged biochar"?
I still think that soaking the biochar would create a more monoculture microbiome around the biochar in the soil as a pose to adding to a mix weeks before hand and cooking in..
I would guess that the shift in terminology is driven largely by people marketing char products for use as soil amendments who want to take advantage of people's interest in biochar. So it goes.
I also see that many "biochar" products on the market are pine based. My initial researches led me to believe that hardwood char was far better than char made from pine and other conifers as a soil amendment. If nothing else, pine char would have likely have different quantities and types of resins. I am sure these would have an impact on the soil life and any plants grown in that soil. I would not want to use the char of any product I wouldn't otherwise put in my worm bin and soil.
There is some indication that different types and quantities of chars can have vastly different impacts on earthworms.
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/aess/2011/541592/
One drawback to using the worm bin is that it takes time. Another limitation is the amount that can added to any given worm bin should be limited somewhat and balanced out with food, mineral and bedding sources. Char is never more than about 5% of what is in my worm bin at any time.
If you want charged biochar and you want it now and premade, I would look at that Black Owl product that is "biochar infused with compost tea". I haven't used it but it exists and has the word "charged" on the bag.
https://www.biocharsupreme.com/products/bob-s-infustion
I also see that many "biochar" products on the market are pine based. My initial researches led me to believe that hardwood char was far better than char made from pine and other conifers as a soil amendment. If nothing else, pine char would have likely have different quantities and types of resins. I am sure these would have an impact on the soil life and any plants grown in that soil. I would not want to use the char of any product I wouldn't otherwise put in my worm bin and soil.
There is some indication that different types and quantities of chars can have vastly different impacts on earthworms.
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/aess/2011/541592/
One drawback to using the worm bin is that it takes time. Another limitation is the amount that can added to any given worm bin should be limited somewhat and balanced out with food, mineral and bedding sources. Char is never more than about 5% of what is in my worm bin at any time.
If you want charged biochar and you want it now and premade, I would look at that Black Owl product that is "biochar infused with compost tea". I haven't used it but it exists and has the word "charged" on the bag.
https://www.biocharsupreme.com/products/bob-s-infustion
Adding biochar to bokashi should innoculate it with the beneficial organisms in EM-1.
Soaking biochar in lactobacillus serum would allow for that specific innoculation also I would imagine.
In the article on biochar in cattle feed that I linked to above there is mention of feeding cattle biochar soaked in sauerkraut brine, which would also be loaded with lactobacillus for the digestive health of the cattle (but probably too high in sodium to be good for the garden).
Soaking biochar in lactobacillus serum would allow for that specific innoculation also I would imagine.
In the article on biochar in cattle feed that I linked to above there is mention of feeding cattle biochar soaked in sauerkraut brine, which would also be loaded with lactobacillus for the digestive health of the cattle (but probably too high in sodium to be good for the garden).
How about that huh? I noticed in their write ups they attribute bio-char origins to Terra Preta beds.
Earlier in the thread I mentioned we had higher success with pine/fir shavings than with hardwoods.
Lost in a SOG
GrassSnakeGenetics
Interesting article on Biochar pH.
https://biochar.pbworks.com/w/page/9748050/Soil pH
"In the opinion of this author the single most important quality of charcoal to the gardener is the ability to lower acidity, also termed liming capacity or effective neutralizing power. This is easily measured in an agricultural laboratory as calcium carbonate equivalent (CCE). If you are growing acid-loving plants you will want a charcoal with negligible CCE, and purportedly this is true of Mulga (Acacia) wood, bamboo, and pine needle derived charcoal. If you are combating low soil pH and aluminum toxicity you will want a charcoal with substantial CCE. Oak and maple hardwood charcoal appear to have substantial CCE. Apparently Amazonian hardwood derived charcoal shares this characteristic. Raising soil pH has been identified as biochar's most important contribution to influencing soil quality in the context of Terra Preta. (Source)
The ash component (as opposed to the black carbon component) of biochar tends to have a pH of 12 - 13, and hardwood charcoal tends to have a minimum ash content of 2-10%. At 10% ash, the effect a tonne of charcoal might be equivalent to as much as 1/10 tonne of lime. At the high end of the target biochar application range (50 MG/ha) (see 4.01), soil pH would increase equivalent to lime applied at 5 tonnes/ha, enough in some cases to increase soil pH by 1.0 unit. In my garden I applied a high rate of high ash content biochar and observed soil pH rise from 6.5 to over 8.0. If you are applying substantial amounts of biochar you should test your soil pH and compare it to the ideal for your plants."
https://biochar.pbworks.com/w/page/9748050/Soil pH
"In the opinion of this author the single most important quality of charcoal to the gardener is the ability to lower acidity, also termed liming capacity or effective neutralizing power. This is easily measured in an agricultural laboratory as calcium carbonate equivalent (CCE). If you are growing acid-loving plants you will want a charcoal with negligible CCE, and purportedly this is true of Mulga (Acacia) wood, bamboo, and pine needle derived charcoal. If you are combating low soil pH and aluminum toxicity you will want a charcoal with substantial CCE. Oak and maple hardwood charcoal appear to have substantial CCE. Apparently Amazonian hardwood derived charcoal shares this characteristic. Raising soil pH has been identified as biochar's most important contribution to influencing soil quality in the context of Terra Preta. (Source)
The ash component (as opposed to the black carbon component) of biochar tends to have a pH of 12 - 13, and hardwood charcoal tends to have a minimum ash content of 2-10%. At 10% ash, the effect a tonne of charcoal might be equivalent to as much as 1/10 tonne of lime. At the high end of the target biochar application range (50 MG/ha) (see 4.01), soil pH would increase equivalent to lime applied at 5 tonnes/ha, enough in some cases to increase soil pH by 1.0 unit. In my garden I applied a high rate of high ash content biochar and observed soil pH rise from 6.5 to over 8.0. If you are applying substantial amounts of biochar you should test your soil pH and compare it to the ideal for your plants."
ok... tell me if this is an adequate way to charge my char. I had about a yard in a pile. mixed in a wheelbarrow of compost, couple shoves of casting, and then put some assorted rock dusts on top and watered it in. kept it wet for about two weeks, mixing it around and using compost teas every couple of days.
This sounds adequate to me.
We just 3/4 filled a metal barrel with holes in the bottom, with char [sitting over soil or compost] and then fill the barrel with ACT. It slowly drains out the holes, charging the char while aerating and also inoculates the substrate under the barrel.
G
Gr33nSanta
how about can filters, when they are 2 years old, is not the carbon in them charged? I always throw spent carbon in the outside garden but I want to start keeping it aside to experiment with a sub irrigated plantar full of carbon pellets in the reservoir. Not sure how effective, but I know someone who keeps his homemade biochar in 5 gallon buckets and uses pee to charge it.
I don't use it but pee does work.
Activated charcoal would need to be "charged". Using the word loosely.
Char tends to rob nitrogen and generally needs a food source and/or some microbial activity to give it a JumpStart.
Another avenue is to use 50% marine char for a mineral boost.
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
What is marine char? Charred seaweed and other ocean vegetation? Or is it regular char soaked in Sea water?
