Char char! Excellent name for a pet.
Has more of a ring to it than bio-char
Whats in the bucket?
Has more of a ring to it than bio-char
Whats in the bucket?
Posted by marionsansing on
Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 15:05
Gojo's DIY 'CEDHF':
(Cold Enzymatically Digested Hydrolyzed Fish)
1. Weigh out equal amounts (1:1) of bycatch or edible whole fish to distilled water.
2. Either dice and mince the fish or put it through a food processor, or a strong blender like a vita-mixer. You need to throughly process the fish into small pieces.
3. Preheat an oven to 122 degrees F (50 degrees C)
4. Lay the fish onto a baking tray, and try not to layer the fish if you can help it. Place the tray into the oven and bake the fish for 0.5-2 minutes, depending upon the quantity and size of fish chunks.[4][5]
* It is possible to use a microwave instead of the oven, I can provide info if there is interest.
* Heating inactivates the endogenous enzymes (and microbes) which are on and in the fish. I want to control what enzymes and microbes are present.
* This step could be skipped and the 'endogenous enzyme activity [of the fish] alone'[6] can digest most of the fish. But I don't want unknown enzymes and microbes in the finished hydrolyzed fish so that's why I heat it.
5. Cover the fish and let it cool. Then and add the fish, along with the distilled water into a strong blender like a vita-mixer and liquefy (5-10 minutes).
6. Adjust the resulting 'fluid' to a ph of 5 using phosphoric acid (aka 'ph down'[7])
* Because I am using a cold enzyme digestion process the ph needs to be low to prevent the gurry from putrefying[2].
* From what I've been able to glean a ph of 4.5 is optimal to prevent putrefaction of gurry. But, a ph of 5 is optimal for papain enzyme action[8][9]. So, I chose a ph of 5 as this will speed the papain's digestion of the fish which will of course shorten the digestion time and reduce the chance (time wise) of the gurry putrefying.
* Use of phosphoric acid is suggested when horticulture is the intended target and phosphoric acid acts as a stabilizer for the gurry[2].
* Use the blender to fully mix the phosphoric acid when testing the ph.
7. Add papain to gurry with an enzyme to fish (not gurry) ratio of 700-1,000 U to a gram of fish[5]
* 'Papain'[10] and 'Alcalase'[11] are the two best known enzymes for digesting fish[5][6] and Alcalase will digest up to 95% of the fish[6]. But, Alcalase prefers a ph of 7-9[11] and it is expensive and hard to find. However, Papain also digests a large quantity of fish[6], but it's ideal ph is 5 and it is inexpensive and easy to find[12].
* So, you will want to add about 1,000 U of papain per gram of fish product (not gurry). Each pill of 'Natural Brand™ Papaya Enzyme'[12] conatins 60,000 U of papain. I'll leave the math up the person making hydrolyzed fish following my directions...
* Buy a pill splitter[13] (about $5.00) and you can split the papain pill into 4 or 6 pieces for greater accuracy. Though, it's better have too much enzyme than not enough.
* Grind the papain pill/s into a fine powder, this will help disperse the papain throughout the fluid. I use a mortar and pestle[14] to pulverize my pills, you can get these at a pharmacy for around $10.00.
* Use the blender to fully mix the papain with the fish liquid.
* A 'U' is a 'USP unit'[15], which is also synonymous with 'IU' (international unit) [16].
8. Place the gurry in cool location (ala refrigerator) between 35 and 38 degrees F (1.7 to 3.3 degrees C) for 4-6 weeks.
9. Filter finished gurry through 100-400 micron screen. The Kis compost tea bag[17] is 400 micron and may work very well, and it's only $10.00.
10. Use the 'CEDHF' lol
* Check the ph, I bet it will be around 5-6, lower is better I would assume but I have no data on that...I'm still just feeling my way around...
Coba, I've recently acquired 3 or 4 yards of hardwood sawdust...have you used it in a compost pile before?
I'm concerned about long breakdown times. I'm planning on a massive worm operation think about the extra $$$$ there at $30 a cu. ft.
Rancho, you're a genius.Coba, I've recently acquired 3 or 4 yards of hardwood sawdust...have you used it in a compost pile before?
I'm concerned about long breakdown times. I'm planning on a massive worm operation think about the extra $$$$ there at $30 a cu. ft.