I recent just had two sets of plugs running 240 wired directly to my electrical box For some reason when I plug in my ballast my light won't turn on. I tested the plugs and there's definitely juice. I've made that I switched my ballast to 240 and I can't seem to get this simple task to work. But when I switch it all back to 120 and plug it into a normal socket my metal halide turns on. I have the 240 on its own 30 amp breaker. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Hooking up 240 to reduce amp draw
- Thread starter Mrgstack
- Start date
Just to clarify:
There are two hot wires, one from each side of the breaker box.
At the new plug the voltmeter shows 110 volts between hot and ground and 220 volts between hot and hot.
The two hot wires connect to the input on the ballast and the ground wire is attached to the case.
Perhaps there is an open circuit on the crossover switch and the 220 is not getting through.
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
When I read 2 sets, it's sounds as if you have one leg per set, thus 120v. Is this correct?
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
If you take the plug out and see the wires how many wires do you see? Minus the naked ground (bare copper wire with no colored plastic covering). If there's only 2, it's 120, 3 should be 240
On some panels the 240 breaker needs to be placed properly too actually draw from both sides of the main line.... You will see little plastic divider every second spot and the breaker has to have one leg on each side.... This if it is the case will run 120 off each side but won't start the 240 because your drawing from same pole to both sides of 240.... If that makes sense. Most panels are 1 pole 2 pole 1 pole 2 pole
But the odd one is 1 pole 1 pole 2 pole 2pole , so have to put breaker in righ spot.....try moving it up one "single breaker" width higher or lower.
But the odd one is 1 pole 1 pole 2 pole 2pole , so have to put breaker in righ spot.....try moving it up one "single breaker" width higher or lower.
I wire lots of 240 only circuits with only 2 hots and a ground.... Not a factor really. Should run from breaker to timer or plug and not have much between or could be other issues but check the placement of breaker first it's easy fix. If not I'll stop by again or search out Rives... He's a guy I've seen that knows some shit!
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
Rives knows his stuff. And it's true a lot of the old 240 wiring you will see will have red (hot) black (hot) and a white (common) with no naked ground. The code changed years ago with the change being a "naked ground"
I'm going to take a picture so you can see exactly how it's set up. I'll post them later today. I sure hope it's an easy fix because I got them installed because last time I couldn't run 4000w in this room without using extension cords going to other outlets in the house. I appreciate the advice.
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
No doubt. I've always wanted to see his Siemens/Allen Bradley component controller he built.
If Revess built custom controllers and sold them..
You want a custom controller, send me a PM, I was an industrial electrician for 10 years and now have my HVAC ticket. A few pics of some items, tons of more pics on Dropbox.
Attachments
Reel Native
New member
Beautiful work! I envy your extreme detail to attention!
Ok, I don't know if you where able to take a look at it, but from a non electrician that was forced to learn the long hard way I will try to save you a few steps.
1st idea is the 120/240... You can use either, but without actually designing a proper 120 set up that usually cost more or is significantly more complex to wire, or some one else to trouble shoot. A 200amp panel is actually 200amps of 240 so if "harmonically balanced" it can do 400amp of 120 because the 120 is drawing off each line individually.but 240 automatically balances so wayyyyy safer and not as easy to over load one side of the panel causing fires or blowing transformers on bigger grows.pretty basic grow wiring once you get the right pieces together.
2nd is 120 is extremely dangerous for high draw loads like 1000w's because even 1 light is almost capacity for most wire, and can quickly over load outlet, extension cord, even kinks in solid core wire can create hot spots and ingnite fires.
3 if your already comfortable wiring a ballast from 120-240 and back then grab a flash light and turn off your main breaker and open it up! As much as I recommend for some people never to touch it... Well if your going into the unknown looking for a proper electrician,better off learning a few things!
Just start right at the panel, there should be a spot were all the common, or white wires go into a few elevated bars with screws tap'ed in holding them. There should be 2 bars running up the middle that the legs of the breaker clamp or screw on to,these are each coming from one of the wires off the pole, as I explained it should look like the either alternate in single or double spaces. This might be hard to see in a fully loaded panel but you could look up the brand on line.
After that all you can do is check each connection along the path and make sure the wires are in the appropriate spots at each end.... Once the breaker is good I feel safe working down line with just that breaker off, but easy enough to shut down the main if your not comfortable.
But yeah turn off main and get a pic if you could. Please don't use extension cords and those plastic timers..... They DO light on fire....
The safest IMO is from panel-40-200amp contactor which is basically just an on/off controlled by a timer, I also like to add a high temp shut off but that's a safety feature that's saved me a lot of $. From the contactor I either hard wire or wire properly rated outlets and boxes. All common pieces easily obtained. Buy a wire stripper and get a box of the proper size crimp on eyelets, take your time.
1st idea is the 120/240... You can use either, but without actually designing a proper 120 set up that usually cost more or is significantly more complex to wire, or some one else to trouble shoot. A 200amp panel is actually 200amps of 240 so if "harmonically balanced" it can do 400amp of 120 because the 120 is drawing off each line individually.but 240 automatically balances so wayyyyy safer and not as easy to over load one side of the panel causing fires or blowing transformers on bigger grows.pretty basic grow wiring once you get the right pieces together.
2nd is 120 is extremely dangerous for high draw loads like 1000w's because even 1 light is almost capacity for most wire, and can quickly over load outlet, extension cord, even kinks in solid core wire can create hot spots and ingnite fires.
3 if your already comfortable wiring a ballast from 120-240 and back then grab a flash light and turn off your main breaker and open it up! As much as I recommend for some people never to touch it... Well if your going into the unknown looking for a proper electrician,better off learning a few things!
Just start right at the panel, there should be a spot were all the common, or white wires go into a few elevated bars with screws tap'ed in holding them. There should be 2 bars running up the middle that the legs of the breaker clamp or screw on to,these are each coming from one of the wires off the pole, as I explained it should look like the either alternate in single or double spaces. This might be hard to see in a fully loaded panel but you could look up the brand on line.
After that all you can do is check each connection along the path and make sure the wires are in the appropriate spots at each end.... Once the breaker is good I feel safe working down line with just that breaker off, but easy enough to shut down the main if your not comfortable.
But yeah turn off main and get a pic if you could. Please don't use extension cords and those plastic timers..... They DO light on fire....
The safest IMO is from panel-40-200amp contactor which is basically just an on/off controlled by a timer, I also like to add a high temp shut off but that's a safety feature that's saved me a lot of $. From the contactor I either hard wire or wire properly rated outlets and boxes. All common pieces easily obtained. Buy a wire stripper and get a box of the proper size crimp on eyelets, take your time.
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Nice work hvac guy! Yeah if you can find a guy that wires like that and is cool and close if you need help then never learning is an option.... Lots of grow store flips are a fire hazard too, make sure the size of the power path is sufficient in all components! Some flips use about 20gauge wire! People wonder why they melt and burn!
TheyCallMeJJay
Member
Holy shit. Those pics are beautiful. Those are so satisfying to look at.
Measure the voltage at the ballast end of the cord. If it's not 240v, check at the receptacle. If that's not 240v, check each leg to ground. If they read 120v, the breaker needs to be moved to a position where it uses both buss bars at the breaker panel.
If you have 240v at the ballast end of the cord you likely have a bad switch or connection in the ballast. If the toggle is 240-120 it just switches between labeled leads on the transformer. The other transformer lead (com) goes to the plug. If the toggle is 240-off-120 then it uses a double pole switch where both transformer leads are off in the center position.
If you don't have a multimeter, get one. Even inexpensive models are good for basic stuff like this.
If you have 240v at the ballast end of the cord you likely have a bad switch or connection in the ballast. If the toggle is 240-120 it just switches between labeled leads on the transformer. The other transformer lead (com) goes to the plug. If the toggle is 240-off-120 then it uses a double pole switch where both transformer leads are off in the center position.
If you don't have a multimeter, get one. Even inexpensive models are good for basic stuff like this.
what is an hvac ticket?
AvidLerner
Member
What is he size of your panel in amps? most modern residential panels are 400 amps, older amps are 240 amps. AC-100A, Appl 60A, lights 60A, Stove/Dryer 30A. Power How many amps are available on the circuit you are using. Even if you combine two circuits, if they are not balanced the amps will not be there. Check your panel amperage and the circuit amperage. You will have to replace two 120v breakers with one 240v breaker and run from there. I am a retired electrical engineer.
