Homebrewing/Beer Makers Thread

[fylthevoyd]

Hey gtbuds....I use both depending on what I am brewing at the time...I just haven't gotten into the mashing aspect due to equipment and space constrictions....and I had planned on doing a pictorial with the next batch I made...since I have had requests from others wanting to see a step by step process

The key to brewing good beer is..."sanitation"...your equipment cannot be too clean....dirty equipment can ruin the simplest process....a "no-rinse" sanitizer is a must in order to achieve a good batch of beer

thanx for starting this thread

 

[mr. bojangles]

ouch, mead gives me a killer hangover, worse than jack. I'll tell ya a kick ass black and tan, 120 and world wide stout, 22%^, yeah baby. I sure am glad this thread came around, my buddy told me yesterday it's on. three brews in one day saturday. I gotta write a recipe for one so he can pick up the stuff friday.
i,m thinkin 3 ounce hops (cenntiniel, warrior, amarillo) two row malt . not sure what gravity yet, somewhere between 7 and 9. probably 75 minute boil. oh yeah, all grain of course.

 

[gtbuds2332]

Hey gtbuds....I use both depending on what I am brewing at the time...I just haven't gotten into the mashing aspect due to equipment and space constrictions....and I had planned on doing a pictorial with the next batch I made...since I have had requests from others wanting to see a step by step process

The key to brewing good beer is..."sanitation"...your equipment cannot be too clean....dirty equipment can ruin the simplest process....a "no-rinse" sanitizer is a must in order to achieve a good batch of beer

thanx for starting this thread

yeah i cant to all grain yet cause of space and i need a bigger brew kettle so im just doin partial grain right now...and sanitation is a MUST with brewing for sure, luckily i haven't had any issues with spoiled beer but i have heard bad stories...glad to hear your gonna do a pictorial, cant wait to see it, good luck!

ouch, mead gives me a killer hangover, worse than jack. I'll tell ya a kick ass black and tan, 120 and world wide stout, 22%^, yeah baby. I sure am glad this thread came around, my buddy told me yesterday it's on. three brews in one day saturday. I gotta write a recipe for one so he can pick up the stuff friday.
i,m thinkin 3 ounce hops (cenntiniel, warrior, amarillo) two row malt . not sure what gravity yet, somewhere between 7 and 9. probably 75 minute boil. oh yeah, all grain of course.

Sounds like you will have a good beer on your hands with that recipie...and i have to mention that im jealous that you can do all grain! lol i gotta get that up and goin soon, just need to get the $$$



well im glad to have started this thread, i knew there had to be more of us on here...i think we got a good start and some good brewers on here to learn from

 

[mr. bojangles]

yeah i had to do extract for a while till i got the hang of it, and the money. then my boy hooked me up with a couple half barrel kegs so igot on youtube and watched some guys cuttin em up and woalah, brew kettle ,mash tun. igloo cooler for the sparge with a steam coil to keep a stable temp.

theres lots o good step by step tutorioals on youtube, that site is the shit when your bored.

 

[fylthevoyd]

hey gtbuds....I used to move my brew kettle out of the way every time I went to make a batch...then it dawned on me..."ya dumb ass" lol...it was my propane fish cooker and stainless steel turkey fryer pot lol...7 1/2 gallons of cooking potential..and quick to achieve temps and maintain them and I always stick to 5 gallon batches since it is easier to control in my opinion

Mr Bojangles...as far as utube goes...I am still on antique ways .."dial up" lol so utube is out

 

[bill2000]

My recipe Canadian Amber Cana Ale

My recipe Canadian Amber Cana Ale

Here a recipe I did about 5 year ago several time

It's gonna end up at 7% alcool + the effect of the weed
Most people that try it don't have the effect of being stonne
They are just very very happy after 2 glass

Here the recipe

Ingredients:

3 gallon Water
1/2 lbs American crystal 40l
5 lbs Light malt extract syrup
2 1/2 lbs Amber malt extract syrup
1.5 lbs brown sugar
1 oz Cascade pellet hops
1 oz Perle pellet hops
4 oz of weed
1 Safale us-56 yeast

Directions:

Boil water
add American crystal 40l for ( have to grind than a little bit )
10 min
add Light & Amber malt syrup
30 min
Lower the heat
add Weeds
5 min
add Cascade hops
5 min
add Perle hops
10 min

filter the brew
let it cool down till it get to 20c ( the faster it cool the safer is your beer )

With your Hydrometer you shoud read 1.064
put it in your primary fermentation for 21 days or till it get to 1.010
add the Safale us-56 yeast

Then I use to put it in a Labatt keg for 14 days
but you can put it in bottle

you should end up with 5 gallons

Enjoy
BiLL2oo0

 

[gtbuds2332]

When adding weed to beer it would have to be after primary fermentation. If you put the weed in during the boil there is no way for the THC to get into the beer because THC has to have alcohol or fat to adhere to. So you have to do primary fermentation first so there is alcohol for the THC to get happy with. I dont think just boiling buds in a wort solution would do the trick. Also I would think you would want a really high alcohol percent like at least 10% in order for it to be worth puttin all that bud in.

 

[mr. bojangles]

i agree, but what about the oils from the hops. say your doing a really hoppy DIPA adding half the weed in the boil, the other half finely ground in a coffee grinder and then thrown in the secondary whilst dry hopping, hmmm? I would think that a really arromatic strain for the boil and a really resinous strain for ferm. Do you think the oils from the hops would help pull the thc, or is it not the right viscosity? I have often pondered, but never the opportunity to do any experimenting.

 

[gtbuds2332]

im not sure about the oils from the hops being able pull the THC off the buds or not, my guess would be there isnt enough oils in a beer even if they are capable but thats just a guess...but putting bud in during the boil i bet could possibly add a good flavor and aroma

 

[mr. bojangles]

recipe

recipe

ok, so here's the recipe I came up with for my part of the weekend session.

6 pounds english two row(not sure the exact distributor as i did not go to the supplier)
3 pounds light dry malt extract (not my plan but we bought out the supplier when we all came together with recipes for two row, so we all made the sacrifice, not that it really hurts but it jacks up the S.G. just a tad, oh well).
1 ounce warrior hops
1 ounce cenntenial hops
1 ounce simcoe hops
1 ounce amarillo hops ( these were gifted to me last year by a friend in the industry fresh, been in my freezer vac sealed in one ounce bags
12.5 gals. water (which is straight out the tap 14 PPM and 6.4 ph for the last three years I been here, I know right, straight well water too.)
Wyeast 1187 ring wood ale ( this is good for a fresh hop ale as it doesn't give too much fruity taste.)

Now before you boil you need to seperate all the hops in half for this recipe is a continuos (sp) hop addition (I'm shootin for the elusive 75 min if ya can't tell)

okay now I'm not gonna go through the hole process of sparging and such as I don't like to type, but ounce you have steeped and you start your boil and than through in the extract.
Now start the hop additions stretching it out for the whole boil.
on a side note this recipe can be a little hazey so if you want you can put a few table spoons of irish moss in a piece of panty hose and boil the whole time for clarity.
Our starting gravity was1.087 ish (75 min is a few beers and j's later so, well you know)
Put in carboys and dry hop.
So i'm sorry if this doesn't read so good but I'm faded and I couldn't wait to post it. I'm really lookin forward to trryin this when it's done, i'm hopin for around 10% ABV but I think we fooked up on the S.G.
Anyways hope ya'll enjoy and downsize and try it, I think it's gonna be pretty good (the wort was tastey) peace and good growin

 

[mr. bojangles]

oh yeah, and don't forget clean, clean, clean

 

[Bobby Stainless]

I keep my bottles, from beer I buy. Just rinse them out.

I am about to do a Steam ale next. Right now I am drinking my high alc California Imperial Pale Ale.

I aroma hopped it, with an extra oz of hops.

 

[sackoweed]

it would, be really cool for a person that new home brewing really really well to start like a tutorial.. Just an idea.. peace..

sack

 

[FallenBuddha]

i have been homebrewing for 7 years now, have actually won a few awards in homebrew competitions. I like the big Belgian ales that cost about $5 for an 11.3 oz bottle at the liquor store, so homebrewing was a natural fit. I started doing extract brews, and then moved up to partial mash, to going all grain for most of my fermentables (sometimes depending on the brew some belgian candi sugar, molasses, treacle or inverse syrup). the drawback to all grain is it makes the brew day more than twice as long, and the addition of a mash/lauter tun (a vessel that will hold the correct temps while the grains convert there starches to fermentable sugars) i have 2 of them, both made from those big "gatorade" coolers in 5 and 10 gallon.the 5 gallon will handle about 18 lbs of grist and the 10 gallon about 35 pounds. You will also find a grain mill to be a good investment, though most homebrew shops will crack your grain for you.

you may be saying why would you go through the hassel? To me there are 3 main reasons; cost grain is alot cheaper than dried malt extract or extract syrup for instance for me to make a belgian trippel at approx 10% a.b.v it would cost approx $40 for the extracts or i get 22 lbs of belgian pils malt for a dollar a lb, "brightness" or clarity as its called, extracts tend to have what is called a chill haze where as pure malt beers have a more transparent final product and last but not least taste extracts i find tend to leave a bit of a plastic artificial almost oxidized aftertaste.

a good kettle is worth its weight in gold, contrary to popular belief aluminum pots will not effect your final product. and the key to really good beer is to get it to "cold break" (when you cool a beer it absorbes back in the proteins and other things that were left in the wort) a copper coiled wort chiller is great for this. the faster you can get the beer down from 218f to 75f the better, with a wort chiller you do it in about 6 minutes compared to the icewater bath and stirring method. the most crucial time in the break is the span from 218 to 100f, you have to be careful to not introduce too much air into the wort (the pre yeasted maltose and hops solution or raw beer) as this can give a papery after taste. then of course the siphoning into the fermenter, then siphon to a glass carboy for secondary fermentation, then either priming (adding a little boiled dry malt extract and water to the beer to give it the carbonation in the bottle, or to keg it in like one of those "cornelius kegs" (the 5 gallon cylinders soda used to be sold in before the days of box in bag pre-mix) and force carbonate with co2. if you choose to force carbonate, colder beer takes carbonation better than warmer beer. then all thats left to do is enjoy sensibley of course, with a nice fat joint.

peace and happy brewing -fb

 

[dreadvik]

FallenDiary: I'd love to see a diary on one of your full grains if you ever had time or a picture taking brewing assistant. Mine is the dog and he doesn't take good pics. He does mop up spills when I'm filling bottles though

 

[dreadvik]

I'm gonna order the rest of the things to start my mead tonight so should have some pics in the week Fingers crossed it's drinkable and doesn't break me too much hehe

 

[gtbuds2332]

i have been homebrewing for 7 years now, have actually won a few awards in homebrew competitions. I like the big Belgian ales that cost about $5 for an 11.3 oz bottle at the liquor store, so homebrewing was a natural fit. I started doing extract brews, and then moved up to partial mash, to going all grain for most of my fermentables (sometimes depending on the brew some belgian candi sugar, molasses, treacle or inverse syrup). the drawback to all grain is it makes the brew day more than twice as long, and the addition of a mash/lauter tun (a vessel that will hold the correct temps while the grains convert there starches to fermentable sugars) i have 2 of them, both made from those big "gatorade" coolers in 5 and 10 gallon.the 5 gallon will handle about 18 lbs of grist and the 10 gallon about 35 pounds. You will also find a grain mill to be a good investment, though most homebrew shops will crack your grain for you.

you may be saying why would you go through the hassel? To me there are 3 main reasons; cost grain is alot cheaper than dried malt extract or extract syrup for instance for me to make a belgian trippel at approx 10% a.b.v it would cost approx $40 for the extracts or i get 22 lbs of belgian pils malt for a dollar a lb, "brightness" or clarity as its called, extracts tend to have what is called a chill haze where as pure malt beers have a more transparent final product and last but not least taste extracts i find tend to leave a bit of a plastic artificial almost oxidized aftertaste.

a good kettle is worth its weight in gold, contrary to popular belief aluminum pots will not effect your final product. and the key to really good beer is to get it to "cold break" (when you cool a beer it absorbes back in the proteins and other things that were left in the wort) a copper coiled wort chiller is great for this. the faster you can get the beer down from 218f to 75f the better, with a wort chiller you do it in about 6 minutes compared to the icewater bath and stirring method. the most crucial time in the break is the span from 218 to 100f, you have to be careful to not introduce too much air into the wort (the pre yeasted maltose and hops solution or raw beer) as this can give a papery after taste. then of course the siphoning into the fermenter, then siphon to a glass carboy for secondary fermentation, then either priming (adding a little boiled dry malt extract and water to the beer to give it the carbonation in the bottle, or to keg it in like one of those "cornelius kegs" (the 5 gallon cylinders soda used to be sold in before the days of box in bag pre-mix) and force carbonate with co2. if you choose to force carbonate, colder beer takes carbonation better than warmer beer. then all thats left to do is enjoy sensibley of course, with a nice fat joint.

peace and happy brewing -fb

Hey man its great to have you on here with all your experience. You said you like big Belgian ales and that is something that interest me and i was thinkin of makin one for my next batch. I was wondering if you had any good partial mash or extract recipes for a big belgian ale?

and also what exactly is a partial mash? is that when you use like 2 punds of grains and then the rest is extract? if so, that is what i do. Or is it somthing different?

 

[chris1985]

I am going to start brewing my own as i have been told that it is a nicer and more potent drink, plus i dont know if this has been said already but it is also good for the CO2 for your plants as well!!!!

Just thought i would let you guys know as this is also what one of my m8s does and gets good results from it!

 

[gtbuds2332]

I am going to start brewing my own as i have been told that it is a nicer and more potent drink, plus i dont know if this has been said already but it is also good for the CO2 for your plants as well!!!!

Just thought i would let you guys know as this is also what one of my m8s does and gets good results from it!

man that is such a great idea i never thought of that!

 

[chris1985]

thanks mate it was something that iwas told so i thought iwould just pass it on as your already brewing anyways so may as well put it to some use!!!!