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HLG QB 550 v2 R-spec VS Migro 400+

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Coco and white leds tend to lead the plants toward cal/mag deficencies.

Usually epsom salts help, also foliar applying speeds up absorption. Add some iron too, may see deficencies in early flower but its much better to take care of them before the flip.


Best of luck.



Cheers
 
Ok everyone!

Once again sorry for the late update. I do have a fulltime job that involves alot of travelling.

This is also one of the reasons i always strive to have a automated system. I used to use the GHE panda tables until i realized they are worthless. They are not ment for cannabis use as the roots always clogged the drainage pipe. This later resulted that i had to refurbish half my house as 150 liter of water almost run out.

Anyways, some of the cocoplant didnt make it. also as you can see the left plant in the migro tent didnt get any water by the tropf blumat system. it didint die but i removed the dry leafes.
Everything has been recalibrated. So everything should be running properly now.

I have a question. Should i replace the the coco plants with new clones and in soil or should we scrog the remaining plants?

your choice.

last weeks video is found here :

https://gofile.io/?c=0Wq3tb

Hope you all enjoy it.

I will read on cobs and QB, and try to explain shine some light on it.

Meanwhile i found this company on amazon. Spider farmer.
Interesting part is that they cost around 180 dollars.
have samsung diodes and meanwhell driver. the 1000SF draws around 100watt. have a stated 2.7mu/J wich is amoungst the highest there is. Only heliospectra what i know has the mitra with 2.9 mu/J. Anyone tried this lamp out ?

the specs is better than the migro but for a 100 dollar less than the migro. Hmmm
 

OrgAeroMan

Active member
Veteran
I've seen some videos on YouTube with the Spider Farmer, it looks like a quality piece of equipment for the price. I have yet to see any complete grows with it, successful or otherwise. Interested in seeing it though.
 
the thing is that it has 3000k and 5000k and far red.

Now Migro has a 3500k.

How does that compare to eachother?
what do you actually get in a SP1000.

I must say i plan to set up a growroom where I use 1 optic 1 54w per plant.
Optic 1 has 2.15Mu/J

and cost almost the same so maybe i should swtich to SP ?
 

OrgAeroMan

Active member
Veteran
Not sure, buddy. I have never used cobs, but I have seen great results with them.
I use 2 HLG 320xl v2 Rspec (what a mouthful) in a 4x4 with excellent coverage. They would be closer to the 550, but with 2 extra qbs and a hundred or so more watts spread out more evenly. Overall I think the efficiency of the quantum boards are better (~2.7 um/j) than cobs with better coverage and less burning from hot-spots.
I think the spider farmer SP1000 is only for really small areas to flower. They also make a SP2,000 (2 qbs) and SP4,000 (4 qbs) - the 4,000 being the most like the 550 from HLG. I think the SP1000 is more like the HLG 100 or 135 in coverage and performance. Hope this helps!
 

Johncannaseed

New member
Tony21, Im not so into DLI at the moment but I will read on and come back to you.
Meanwhile can you please give me a hint on what DLI is and what the optimal DLI for cannabis is? And I want a trusted source, so we can discuss the subject.

As far as I understood the DLI is the amount of PAR recieved in m2 each second. As we are growing indoors the par amount wont change as it will do in a outside enviroment.

For cannabis, you want to hit a DLI between 48 - 65mols m-2d-2 during flower cycle, but you also need to factor in whether it is a high-light loving strain, and whether you are using CO2 because there comes a point of diminishing returns without CO2 which is approximately around 700-1000 PPFD
 

Johncannaseed

New member
Regarding your questions about coco, I would create a watering program based upon hydroponic methodology, please see below:

Coco needs to be watered frequently (like hydroponics) in order to keep the medium moist, so the plant roots have an optimal supply of water/nutrient solution.

I would experiment with the following schedule which is based on using drip emitters in each pot, hooked up to a timer; and a 12/12 photo-period of lights on 9 pm lights off 9 am;

• 20 mins after lights on (once the plants are awake) water plants for 5 mins on a low drip-feed cycle, allow the emitter to drip; very much like a dripping tap, this will allow the water to spread out across the entire Coco medium, rather than flowing straight down and out the bottom of the pot as it would if the tap (or in this case drip emitter) flow rate was too high

• 1 hour later water again for 3 mins (on low drip-drip-drip feed)

• From 12 – 7 am water every hour (3 mins on low, drip-drip-drip feed) for an even balanced supply of nutrients throughout the day, by doing this you will ensure plant feed levels remain optimal.

• From 7 am to lights off stop watering as the plants so their roots are drier as they go through the dark period.

• If there is a lot of water sitting around the root zone during the dark period you increase the risk of root problems like root rot, so it’s important to keep the moisture level at the root zone low, during this period.

• The idea behind frequent feeds of small amounts of solution per feed, is so you can keep the moisture levels consistent, reduce anaerobic activity, and allow beneficial microbes to thrive & grow in symbiosis with the roots to help the whole plant grow.

• In your scenario you will need to work out what a small dose of nutrient feed is; it might be 100ml a time

• You will also need to make sure that drippers are set on a low flow rate

The above is a guide, so you will need to tailor it to suit your grow room requirements/environment; for example you might find that due to dry air, high air movement etc, that you need to increase watering frequency from every hour/3mins on, to every 30mins/2-3mins on, or you might find it is best to stop the last feed 1 hour before lights out.

Therefore you will need to experiment in order to find the sweet spot for your plants and find out what’s the optimal watering program for your media and root system.


Another thing you will need to keep an eye on is EC levels, again start low and gradually work upwards until you find sweet spot because too high EC levels = Too much salt = Death of microbes and rootburn = Decrease in yield so be careful and go slowly.

And don’t forget you will need to adjust EC levels according to stage of growth I.e low for clones gradually build up to veg then flowering, then reduce Ec and gradually taper off toward the latter third of flowering; but in order to optimise your grow to this kind of level requires you to have worked with the same strain for a good length of time, so you have enough time/data to optimize your grow room environment to those particular strains.
 
Hey!
I apologize for not writing in a while.
During the past two weeks I have had a severe case of lumbago.
The pain has been so high that during the first week I couldn't move.
This in turn led to the flowers dying.
I haven't been fully mobile until this week. in addition to that, the tropf blumat system didnt work either
as it should.

During this time i purchased the Wilma system as it was intended from the beginning.

New clones will be taken tomorrow and as soon as they are rooted they will be transplanted.
Apologies for the delay that has occurred.

I also discussed the Spider Farmer witha friend of mine and this is his opinion. wich i believe is good totake into consideration. What you you believe ?






most of the Chinese companies who build quantum board design fixtures they will either use cheap Epistar or LG LED chips and claim they are Samsung as they know people will not be able to tell the difference, on that note go to the sellers business listing at the bottom left of the page.

Notice it says: Business seller information
LG-LED SOLUTIONS LIMITED

Can you see reference to "LG LED" given the fake Samsung stuff use LG Chips can you see the potential issue with what they are most likely selling?

Notice they have had to waterproof their boards, but genuine Samsung Chips employ Anti-sulfurization coating technology which protects the LEDs from harsh environments such as foggy & humidity of 100%. Samsung LED chips are UL 1598 damp-rated, so there is no need to waterproof genuine Samsung chip boards as they come water-resistant as standard

HLG use Osram chips, notice Spider does not mention what there coloured diodes are
The Chinese are renowned for using fake parts and they do not respect intellectual property rights as there is generally no recourse so in all likelihood they are probably using Fake Meanwell drivers as they are cheap and most people would not be able to tell the difference and the company knows it.

Now we come to the price and this is by far the biggest indicator because a light that was built with genuine high-quality parts like Samsung/Osram chips and Genuine Meanwell drivers is not going to be cheap due to the fact the parts are expensive.
 

OrgAeroMan

Active member
Veteran
Indeed, I've seen some yt vids where they use cheaper, crappier parts, and ppfd #s don't lie. Better parts = better performance= more $, but it's worth it in my opinion.
 
Back on Track

Back on Track

Hello Everyone!
Thank you all for being patient with me.
i have had alot to do but the main reason is that i let the clones be in the cloner for 3 weeks. This to ensure stable healthy clones that wont die from a transplant.

And it was worth the wait. In total 16 clones from same mother A bad Azz kush from barneys farm. New is the wilma system.
What the wilma system actually does is that it feeds the pots. a pump is connected to a timer. simple but way effective. ok so they got transplanted sunday. 2 days ago.

Ill have the timelaps camera up and running from next week.

Lets do this... :dance013:
 
Ok, so all the clones survived the transplant. They all look healthy. I will post some pics tomorrow.
Timelaps camera is on. I will share the video on sunday. So the camera rolls from sunday to sunday.

Finally its on. :)
 
Btw i saw that Shane did a test on the spiderfarmer.
They state a 2.7 umols trade but The test gave 1.96umols

Go check out the video
https://youtu.be/qbhvQelsYXg

!! Im not a sponsored grower!!
 
Ok! EVerything is doing really good.
I have bought small fans to use inside the tent.

The Tent with green steelrods is the migro tent.
Stem development is good.
Everything seems to be going well. Please comment. what you think i shoud do differently to improve something.

The timelapsvideo is on its way.
 
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