Help! Rust fungus or lack of Mg/Ca??

[exploziv]

anyway, lots of hundreds of ppm to be guessed..

 

[Vancho]

It would be carbonates?

Alcalinty, total alcalinity has the calcium. 400mg of CaCO3 equals to 160mg of Ca+ ion.
160mg of calcium is more that enough for the plants taking the info stiff said above. So tap water alone should solve the problem right? no clue about the magnesium, seems that tap water lack of it

 

[Three Berries]

Alcalinty, total alcalinity has the calcium. 400mg of CaCO3 equals to 160mg of Ca+ ion.
160mg of calcium is more that enough for the plants taking the info stiff said above. So tap water alone should solve the problem right? no clue about the magnesium, seems that tap water lack of it

Alkalinity yes. Was just reading this the other day when studying the carbonates.

I have a limestone quarry around me and they provide a percentage of Ca/Mg as it's used on the bean fields locally. And a lot goes to Florida for some reason. See miles of rail road cars at the quarry. But that is where my well water comes from. Mine is 440 ppm at 93/7% Ca/Mg with a hint of iron from a meteorite hit 15 miles away., pH of 7.4.

This mixes well with the nutes I use pH wise and comes out in the upper 6s usually. But I still top dress copious amounts of calcium because I have high CO 2 levels, 2k-3k ppm this time of year CO2.

 

[blondie]

Three berries: This doesn’t look like over nute to you? Also you recommended the blossom end rot product because it’s a faster acting product than dolomite I assume?

I would get spots similar to this at times. I couldn’t figure what it was, and incorrectly concluded I was over watering. Fabric bags would fix, I assumed. Didn’t. Rule out over water. Started using rain water as most here saw my post. That, at first, didn’t seem to make much diff. It was when the soil had just about no nutes in it did the spots stop appearing. This is strain dependent from my experiences though. Some strains I grew, CC GSC comes to mind, liked the heavy nutes and showed no sign of spots. Growing outdoors whatever strain never saw these spots, same soil, same nute mix. My conclusion was the rain was washing away nutes and I could get away with it outdoor but not indoor. I know guys posting here have mad awesome skills and tons of groww. Interested in thoughts on this. OP... I post this as I think you are over nuted and could benefit from hearing this info. Let’s see what the gurus have to say. Also creepy is on track with the rainwater, at least for some people tap is not as good. If you could, give a try with some rainwater.
At some point. See if it makes a diff for you.

This page has some interesting info. I think you can rule out rust.

Rust Spots On Leaves During Flowering (The Causes And How To Fix Them)

Trying to figure out what rust spots on leaves during flowering indicate? You've probably read a bunch of wildly different explanations. Most are wrong. It is...

growlightinfo.com

 

[stiff]

Just contact your supplier,play dumb and tell them u need to know because of expensive fish in the aquarium or so. Fishbreeders ask them all the time. You wouldn't be the first one. Tell them you can find all the info except calcium and magnesium. They should know what's in there in what strenght.
Sry, I cant help you with that Spanish list, ot seems like its missing things. My list here is much longer

 

[stiff]

I think its quite funny how you guys have to deal with to much calcium and magnesium in your drink.
For me its the opposite since all our water is dam-water. Ec straight from the tap is 0.1. That alone makes me add Calmag. Canna's Calmag is even produced differently just for the Australian water quality,because is such soft water.

You asked what levels of Cal and Mag u need at what stage. I will only mention Calcium as I always use it in the same 3:1ratio to the magnesium..do your maths

For a seedling I'd want about 50mg/l.

For a cutting just rooted I'd go 70mg/l

A young plant up to 30cm around the 100mg/L

And in flower I'd give 120 for a medium size plant.
Same plant in full flower about 150mg/L.
(I say that and mean to do that roughly with 300wLED or 600w hps) if you go bigger with the light you'll have to go harder on the calcium and magnesium too. Keep in mind the ratio to stay the same.
@exploziv
I use the 3:1 ratio...but if you think 5:1 towards the end, can u please say a bit more? Id like like to understand why you're going so high where I'm almost about to stop giving any at all. Cheers, stiff

 

[Three Berries]

Three berries: This doesn’t look like over nute to you? Also you recommended the blossom end rot product because it’s a faster acting product than dolomite I assume?

I would get spots similar to this at times. I couldn’t figure what it was, and incorrectly concluded I was over watering. Fabric bags would fix, I assumed. Didn’t. Rule out over water. Started using rain water as most here saw my post. That, at first, didn’t seem to make much diff. It was when the soil had just about no nutes in it did the spots stop appearing. This is strain dependent from my experiences though. Some strains I grew, CC GSC comes to mind, liked the heavy nutes and showed no sign of spots. Growing outdoors whatever strain never saw these spots, same soil, same nute mix. My conclusion was the rain was washing away nutes and I could get away with it outdoor but not indoor. I know guys posting here have mad awesome skills and tons of groww. Interested in thoughts on this. OP... I post this as I think you are over nuted and could benefit from hearing this info. Let’s see what the gurus have to say. Also creepy is on track with the rainwater, at least for some people tap is not as good. If you could, give a try with some rainwater.
At some point. See if it makes a diff for you.

This page has some interesting info. I think you can rule out rust.

Rust Spots On Leaves During Flowering (The Causes And How To Fix Them)

Trying to figure out what rust spots on leaves during flowering indicate? You've probably read a bunch of wildly different explanations. Most are wrong. It is...

growlightinfo.com

I've gone two years on rainwater and nothing but problems. When I started using the CaCl2 directly at 1200 ppm as a top dressing almost daily it all stopped. I do have high CO2 at 2k-3k in the winter. But when I back off the nutes it only gets worse.

Just transplanted my two small ones to the big pots and used some half strength on them. But only till they show signs of lacking.

This pic is lack of Ca. Ten days or so into flower.

This is the same plant when in veg, you can see some of the inner leaves where I first started to see the Ca deficiency. They do not recover. I guessing they are growing faster than what the plant can deliver. I've always thought this was nute burn but it is the exact opposite in my case.

 

[Three Berries]

Here is my first Grand Daddy Purple from last year. Before I had a clue on the Ca deficiencies. This is under a HPS light but you can still see how bad it was. I was thinking Potassium and Magnesium and adding that while feeding half nutes or straight water.

. I called this one old yeller. It still put out 70 grams.

 

[f-e]

1200ppm of Ca almost daily?
About 400ppm calcium isn't it?
Interesting. I would of shared your early ideas about burning

Edit: 1200 of calcium chloride

 

[exploziv]

@exploziv
I use the 3:1 ratio...but if you think 5:1 towards the end, can u please say a bit more? Id like like to understand why you're going so high where I'm almost about to stop giving any at all. Cheers, stiff

Actually I use way more Ca than I see recomended here most times (the plants demad it). Including tap water input I fed up to 450 ppm Ca at times, during last grow. At those times the need for Mg wasn't as big so I wasn't boosting that too. I think 5:1 to 3:1 Ca:Mg can be taken as a good baseline, and adapted to most plants needs. It took a bit of research and testing to get to those numbers that work for me.

 

[stiff]

@exploziv I hear ya...if I tell friends how i sometimes give an EC of 2.5 or more,they shit their pants and call me crazy. But those new lights changed the ferts game too. I cant remeber ever having trouble under hps. But then again...the quality of the weed is much better under LED. I get so much more trichomes on the buds now, i absolutely it. I wont go back

 

[Three Berries]

1200ppm of Ca almost daily?
About 400ppm calcium isn't it?
Interesting. I would of shared your early ideas about burning

Edit: 1200 of calcium chloride

No the mix is 1200 ppm Ca is what I have been using. It adds to the water load though so I bumped it up to 2k ppm and added some Mg but not a lot. I feed depending on plant size and only if the new leaf tips are yellow. But during fast veg growth this is every day. This is still in a discovery phase for me. But generally 175-250 ml. Currently have two in veg and two in flower. Starting to skip the flower one day it looks like. I also use some organic KSO4 and MgSO4 in the soil when I pot. Use well water too now for the feed nutes at 440 ppm, 93/7 Ca/Mg

 

[f-e]

You are way out there on your own with those figures. I wonder if you are suppressing an ammonia or boron toxicity.
Was it you talking about the concrete floor raising co2 levels? Many plasticisers used in concrete produce ammonia in quantities you can actually smell.

 

[Three Berries]

My CO2 comes from open flame heaters and a tight house. I can already see the 1/2 nute mixes lacking for the two small ones. Here's my veg fert used at 1 tbs per gallon well water, the recommended outdoor rate. Then a 1/2 teaspoon of humic. pH to 6.8-7.0. Fox Farm Happy Frog cut with 10% more perlite.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

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It could be 3 things:

1. Calcium deficiency/lockout.
2. Phosphorus deficiency/lockout.
3. Fungal/bacterial infection due to lack of airflow.

Calcium is a non-mobile deficiency, in that it affects the tops and top foliage, and sometimes a leaf near the bottom of the plant that is exposed to light. However the damage does increase node by node.

Phosphorus is a mobile deficiency that starts in the lower or middle leaves and slowly moves up node by node. Phosphorus is in high demand in early to mid flowering.

Leaf septorium and various fungal infections are caused by lack of airflow/pruning. I would also check the vents for any kind of dust or obstruction. And it is hard to tell from the photographs, however indoors especially, it is important to get rid of any carpets, curtains or anything cloth. They will become sources of infection for spilled nutrients, dust, etc.

 

[stiff]

Hey three berries, I got that miracle gro stuff too and I'm not too happy with it. See if you can find hakaphos blue instead and tell me what you think of those numbers. It got a lot less N in it. I travel a lot better on that stuff and even there I still got a bit too much N all up.
No pressure, but I think you can find something more suitable in the peters salt range or hakaphos or even the yara range. Plus that miracle gro is expensive if you ask me.
Just my two cents, peace
Stiffy

 

[Three Berries]

I use the flower one for flowering.

I've got some Masterblend but wanted to use up the MG stuff I have.

 

[f-e]

It could be 3 things:

1. Calcium deficiency/lockout.
2. Phosphorus deficiency/lockout.
3. Fungal/bacterial infection due to lack of airflow.

Calcium is a non-mobile deficiency, in that it affects the tops and top foliage, and sometimes a leaf near the bottom of the plant that is exposed to light. However the damage does increase node by node.

Phosphorus is a mobile deficiency that starts in the lower or middle leaves and slowly moves up node by node. Phosphorus is in high demand in early to mid flowering.

Leaf septorium and various fungal infections are caused by lack of airflow/pruning. I would also check the vents for any kind of dust or obstruction. And it is hard to tell from the photographs, however indoors especially, it is important to get rid of any carpets, curtains or anything cloth. They will become sources of infection for spilled nutrients, dust, etc.

I was pondering on Phosphorous. It's the only thing calcium really helps. It looks depressed in that veg feed. Elementally under 4P to 13K. With that 24N the EC is going to be quite high before P demand is catered for. I would have a really good look at how P manifests in various analogues of cannabis, not just cannabis itself. Just to satisfy myself that it's not a P problem. The roots might give a clue, as thick white roots extend out looking for P, that don't branch out until the find it. This may show as roots circling the pot, but not lots of finer roots.

 

[f-e]

P

Edit: I didn't notice. That's excess P. Likely antagonising zinc to give them yellow tips. More Ca is unlikely to help with this.

 

[Three Berries]

Once the yellow starts it won't improve with a Ca deficiency. And always on new growth. As far as what I am going through.

Here is a shot of one with old damage and some slight tip damage, three weeks in flower today.

And her sister at two weeks today. Some very slight yellowing on the tips.