help needed...(pics)

[mac777]

"hey all and thx for the help...
i think they where abit overwatered so i have let them dry out now for 5 days maybe ill have to wait a few days more b4 i water them, but it seems like the spotting on leafs has stoped.. so now i waiting.. i will do a ph-check b4 next feed and will addjust the ph to 6..but whats happening with the leafs burned on tips and sides.. some1 said Mg deficency..i alsothink that i have given them too little food so i thought of goin up from 1/3 to 1/2 strength ferts.."


LOL ONCE AGAIN MYNAMEISSTICH IS CRAZY! THATS NOT A BIG JUMP IF THE PLANTS HAVE BEEN ROOTED PROPERLY! I MOVE BABY CLONES UNDER A THOUSAND RIGHT OUT OF MY POWER CLONER!GET WITH THE TIMES HIPPIE! YOUR DAYS OF DIRT AND WATER CRAZINESS ARE OVER! GET WITH THE TIMES! OBVIOUSLY YOU DON'T READ CAUSE HE STATED THAT HIS SPOTS ON HIS YELLOW LEAVES GOT FIXED WHEN HE CUT BACK ON WATERING! THEN HE STATED TIPS WERE YELLOW WITCH COULD INDICATE A MILLION THINGS! BUT SINCE HE ONLY FEED ONCE YOU HAD TO ASSUME THAT NUTES WERE THE ISSUE. ALSO THE BEST METHOD OF GETTING THE NUTES TO THE PLANTS SINCE HE IS USING SOIL WOULD BE FOILER FEED WITH PENATRATOR AS IT FORCE FEEDS THE NUTES. WHICH YOUR PROBABLY ARE NOT FIRMILIAR WITH SINCE YOUR ASS SPENDS TO MUCH TIME HUGGING TREES AND SINGING AROUND THE CAMP FIRE IN YOUR TIE DIE SHIRT. I THINK YOU NEED TO QUIT SMOKING SO MUCH AND DO A LIL MORE RESEARCH! HIPPIE!

PS YOU CAN AVIOD OVER WATERING BY TOUCHING YOUR SOIL TO SEE IF IT'S WET. IF IT IS THEN YOU DON'T NEED TO WATER. IT'S THAT SIMPLE.

 

[R4st4]

mynamestitch yes it contains magnesium just a typo from me ....now the soil have dried out inuf to water the plants think i just will use water... should i adjust ph on that water from 7 to 6?

 

[R4st4]

rastamonunicka: just had the homebox for 2 weeks.. i like it, easy to set up and easy to manage...only negative i can say aboute it after 2 weeks of use : i got a over sized fan so what happen is that the walls on the tent get sucked inwards and maybe could had more mounts for ventilation ducting. but thats not really a prob ive mounted mine to the frame. yea and the 3 air intake r not totaly light proof as it comes but thats easy fixed with velcro tape

 

[MynameStitch]

lol you wasted your time mac, i dont read post's that people write in caps :lol:

yes r4st4. also move the light up and test the ph

r4 what are your canopy temps? do you know?

as lonjg as the water ph is not over 8 you will be fine and wont need to adjust, water will change the ph of the soil but only for temp, which is why the soil is the one that needs to be ph adjusted, if you was growing hydro then the water would have to be ph adjusted

with soil, the soil is what has to be adjusted not the water

what nutrients have you been using just the canna terra vega?

i still say its heat issues.... 400 watt hps 2 feet away?

move it up at least another foot!

and feed weekly adjust the ph if needed, check ph

do all that you will have your problem fixed also will stop the problems i forsee happening soon if not fixed now

 

[sproutco]

water will change the ph of the soil but only for temp

That's just not true. What if the water is acidic with sulfur for example? Soil ph will drop. What would happen if the water contained carbonates and a high ph? The soil ph would rise just like it had been limed. The degree in which the soil ph changed would depend on how buffered it is to a certain ph.

 

[R4st4]

hey

Mynamestitch temps at roots r 22 temp at canopy temp aboute 27-29. yea only used canna but these plants have been thru alot lol cause i have 1 room for veg or its a box 4x1x4 ft and used my storage room for flowering but that room was bad cause when i first set the plants on 12/12 they got bad all weird things happening so i reveged them and they did recover when i set them back in veg box..then i did some change with ventilation in the room and put the plants in for flowering once again and same shit happend they got like nitrogen toxity it looked like so then i thought it had to be the room.. cause it was very dry like 25-35% humidety and 2 wall in the room was of concrete and it sucks moist so then i sealed the room with plastic... got higher humidety but it didnt really help the 3th time either they got so bad in there that in the end i just have to get them out and reveged them...(and thru this time i have only used ferts a few times befor 1 month befor 4 i transplant and after that i started feeding weekly they where transplanted in the same type of soil as i used b4 so i think its quit a strong mix since ive use so little ferts in 5-6 months(so the plants have been reveged 3 and r trained really low)...) so now i have a growbox for flowering got it 2 weeks ago...

and another thing is when i transplanted them first time after they rooted (5 months ago) i used the same soil as i transplanted them in now 10 days ago, and then after first feed they got the same as now like edges and tips of leaves got burned and started curling up or down.. but they r not like crispy at first as ive seen radiant heat dose so maybe its the soil thats too strong.... but ill try the lamp and plain water and see whats happen... will take some pics later and ph too

thx....

Rasta

 

[MynameStitch]

lol sprout since when is tap water acidic

also ive never heard of water containing carbohydrates

and again it doesnt matter water does not make the final ph of the soil the soil is what makes the final ph
adjusting ph of water only matters with hydro
I did this with my plants at first and then got lazy and never ph adjusted the water and my plants was fine and i tested ph and did tests on ph and found this to be very true

adjusting ph for water to water soil is a big waste of time,

also my boyfriends dad is a horticulturist, he NEVER ph adjusts his water for any of his plants and this dood makes a living selling plants

he has so many kinds of plants its not even funny, his house looks like a jungle

so i know factfully ph adjusting water to water soil plants is a waste of time

think about it..... with soil you have the soil itself and the stuff in it

with hydro you only have the water itself which is what it lives in.. without water there isnt anything else controlling the ph because there isnt anything

now aqdding nutrients changes ph of the water in hydro, but you cant always use high amounts of nutrients to adjust the ph so you use ph up or down

water is the growing medium for hydro you have no choice to adjust the ph or plants cant grow

with soil its the same thing but you have 2 things. water and soil

water does not make the final value of the ph of the soil, its the soil itself that you have to control just like hydro and water


r4 if it was nute burn it wouldnt be on the top of the plant, something is causing it to burn thats above it and with 400 watts being 2 feet above them

not to mention everytime you put your plants under 400 something happens
i can see where you think its nute burn thats what i thought at first but i looked a little more at the pictures in detail and relized thats not what it was
the damaged is mostly top only, nutrient burn would cause some of the middle to lower leaves to be butrned, mainly fan leaves first and little leaves 2nd and if ph was issues there would be spotting and brown crispyness, a much different kind of brown then what your seeing on your plants right now.... it would be in the leaf veins and tips depending on severity

your plants just getting to much raidant heat even if temps are right they can get to much lumens

each strain is different with its tolerance to heat light nutes and care requirements

please let us know how it works out for ya

also the damaged leaves are damaged, they wont recover

 

[sproutco]

since when is tap water acidic...also ive never heard of water containing carbohydrates

Ph of my water coming out of my tap is acidic (5.2 ph) due to sulfates. It is well water.

Its carbonates (not carbohydrates) like what is in lime that is found usually in city tap water. This gives it a somewhat neutral ph. Adding this prevents damage to piping.

Professional plant growers add acids or bases into the water to achieve proper ph. I suggest reading: Water, media, and nutrition for greenhouse crops edited by David Reed from Texas a&m university. It is published by Ball publishing. isbn 1-883052-12-2. You may be able to get a copy at the local library.

Some growers do add carbohydrates to their water. http://www.advancednutrients.com/product_label_pdfs/Carbo_Load_Liquid_hydroponic_plant_food.html

Here is a good article that explains water ph treatment you can read online: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1158/

 

[MynameStitch]

he doesnt add anyting he lets his water sit out and water his plants after chlorine sets out

in this situation he had no carbohydrates

most growers do not add them at least the ones i have talked to and helped out

the articles you posted have nothing to do with proving adjusting ph for soil growing is pointless

i know its pointless because i have done this with experience and know its true and i asked my boyfriends dad and he to said it was pointless

i never said anything about ph treatment

my bad about the carbohydrates misread that

sprout what do you use to test your ph
and do you let your water set out before testing it?

and again i think i stated this before in previous posts

if your water is no higher than 8 or 9 and no lower than 6 you dont need to ph adjust it
if i forgot to say it here sorry but i say it alot

you water your plants with that water sprout

 

[sproutco]

I know this article is a little complicated but take the time to read it. It does state that water affects soil ph. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1158/ If you have questions about it, I can try to answer them as I have the book I suggested you try to get from the library.

What I did to prove this for myself is measure ph of the fertilizer water. Applied it to the soil. Then did a test of ph using the pour through method.(applying distilled water and catching runoff when the soil is wet) I did this 7 or 8 times over a period of maybe 3 weeks. Soil ph will follow the water ph gradually.

Here is the ph meter I use: http://www.specmeters.com/pH_Meters/pH_Pro_Meter.html

Because my water is very acidic(5.2 ph), I either have to add sodium hydroxide(lye) or use basic fertilizers such as calcium nitrate or potassium nitrate. In soilless mix, I aim for ph 5.6-6.2 If my water were above 6.2 ph I would have to add an acid such as sulfuric acid(battery acid) or use acidic fertilizers such as containing ammonia or sulfur. I have to do this when I fertilize plants in town because the ph of the city water is about 7.

I usually never use straight water with plants. I use a dilute fertilizer with every watering. This is called constant liquid feed or clf. I adjust ph after mixing. Plants respond better to a constant source of fertilizer rather than a "jerk" of something strong occassionally.

 

[sproutco]

7.8 and 10.1 ph are just as bad or worse. None of this really matters because you should be adjusting your ph after adding ferts. anyway.

 

[R4st4]

hey.. the plants have start growing again..and the burning have stoped havent been doing anything only waited on the pots to dry out, didnt move the lamp either cause the the leafs that r burned r not crispy its soft.. and its over 10 days since i gave them water, so i think it was a water problem, that the soil was to wet. today i gonna give them water and some ferts..

 

[MynameStitch]

leaves dont have to be crispy for them to be burned they can have raidant heat which can bleech them and they wont be crispy

its very odd how most of the damage is on the top canopy

usally when water is the culprit you have other problems, it will affect the entire plant quickly.... this is more localized so i dont think the water is what solved it....

your plant is showing more than one problem, what water are you using to water your plants with?
soft water hard? bottled distilleD?

 

[R4st4]

well what i meant was that burning stoped as the pot started to dry out, i use tap water ph 7.. today water + ferts was aboute 6.. looks like mg-def?

 

[MynameStitch]

yes its now showing magnsieum and nitrogen problems

 

[R4st4]

hey... well it seems like nothing much have changed with the plants since my last post, what i forgot to say on the last post was that i used 10 ml of ferts the recomende is 30 ml. today i gave them 15 ml so now im at half strength, ph on the mix was 5.5.. and the 2 plants that r right under the bulb is moste affected the 4 others on each sides r getting greener... so maybe its radient heat?...i bendt the reflector so that it dosen consentrate the light so much and moved it up abit but ..i also moved the to middle plants to 1 of the sides. they r also the 2 biggest plants maybe they just r hungry?

 

[ethereal]

go buy some schultz all purpose and feed those bitches. it will clear you up providing you limed your soil.
also why is your pH going in so low? switch to distilled or r/o water with botanicare calmag+ and your problems will dissipate.
another thing to buy for (next time) preventing this sort of thing is dyna-gro 'proteKt' a potassium silicate supplement. both are modestly priced inorganic ferts. the schultz i recommended up top is also inorganic and can be found at any 'big box'/hardware store or nursery locally and a couple feeds with tht stuff will get you back on track. you can then resume to your quasi-organic headache feeding when they go into flower..

best of luck

 

[R4st4]

what i meant was that water +ferts was ph 5.5
soil ph was abit under 7 last time i checked and soil contains lime

 

[R4st4]

yea and i set the timer on 12/12 today cant wait anylonger cause they will get to big for the box

 

[MynameStitch]

of course it wont, the damaged leaves wont recover silly other than that your plants are looking better it hasnt spreaded

also your plants are showing small nitrogen problems, give it a small dose of grow nutrients