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Help design a LED for my cab

monarch

Member
PL-L arrived and I gathered metal and aluminum for the fixture.

I also ordered the heat sink, I went with the smaller profile 4.8" after some consideration but but decided to go the full 21.5 inches in length. This should make the fixture earlier to assemble and more rigid.

I read through a lot of the SupraSPL thread at rollitup and cant say I did any calculations on my area vs watts. However I think that size should be enough to dissipate the heat, I have a whole box full of fans to try out if heat is an issue.

Last piece to order is the 4 cob's and driver.
 

monarch

Member
Welded a fixture to house the PL-L and a heat sink. Ballasts for both lights will be remote for heat and I have material for reflectors. If I can get time in a friends shop bending them wont be a problem but I might find something off the shelf to modify like some old floro tube light fixtures.

Waiting on the heat sinks to arrive so I can bolt them on for rigidity. They will run parallel between the PL_L's the full length and house two cob's each. Next step is to order the the cob's and driver. They're pretty expensive so I want to make sure I have it all right. Im thinking originally 3590B's but might consider the 3070's or 3590a's.

 

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monarch

Member
Ordering the led's and driver today form Kingbrite.

Im confused on the drivers. Poster above people told me to go for the hlg 185h-models. Particularly the A model with adjustable amps. they come in 200w, there are also 250 w option drivers.

My question is how much to the amps matter and watts matter?


Amps:
Amperage has a few options of .7, 1.050, and 1.4 A I believe. I have a small cab so I don't need to blast the lights what amperage should I look for, and more specifically why?

Watts:
Also the cxb590 are rated at 75-150w. I will be running 4. I assume thats related on how hard they are being driven by the amps. @ 4 cob's thats either 300-600 watts? I know some of you are running this as stated here in the tread but I just want some clarity before I spend money. Is a 200w driver sufficient?
 

positivity

Member
Veteran
Get the b version and a 100k potentiometer from eBay
It's way more convenient to adjust the output

Run four cobs at 1.4a. May as well use more of the 3590s capacity. 50w vs 40w and buy one less cob... Rough numbers.

Look at the Cree datasheet, specifically the current to voltage graph. Google Cree 3590 datasheet. Multiply driver current x cob volts to get output watts of each Cob

The total voltage each cob will consume at a given current gets added up when run in series, which that constant current driver is designed to be wired in

3590s can run from the whole wattage range. Whatever current you give it will decide that. 4 @ 1.4a will be 50w per, 200w total. 5 @ 1a would be 40w each and 200w. And so on....
 
This one i feel is your best bet.
You'll be able to dim for younger plants and blast for mature flowering plants.
You might be able to drive 5 cxb3590 off of this one. Definitely 4cobs.


Peace, Roast.
 

monarch

Member
Thanks Roasty. Im slowly understanding it all. I was concerned before, 50w per light seemed not full potential. I think the 250w driver will do for 4 I'm ordering.
Jerry from Kingbrite has been slow to throw me a quote. Their site on alibaba has the worst interface possible to buy something of them. I'm also contemplating switching to 3070's for some cost savings.

thanks for all the help, heat sinks are mounted. I will post more pics as I part along.
 

monarch

Member
Just check out the driver more. Its 179 volts. Five 36v would equal 180. I can only run four in my fixture or 144v combined volts. Are the extra volts not supplied? Do the cob's just draw what they need from the driver or is the driver consistently putting out volts and they need to go somewhere with the correct load?
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Not so fast.
The above driver is good for 3-5 cxb3590, each will be provided 1400mA so 50W each.
For 4 cxb3590s it's good to use a HLG185 model(total 200W = 4cobs x 50W).
 
Just check out the driver more. Its 179 volts. Five 36v would equal 180. I can only run four in my fixture or 144v combined volts. Are the extra volts not supplied? Do the cob's just draw what they need from the driver or is the driver consistently putting out volts and they need to go somewhere with the correct load?

I run a string of 4 cxb3590 @ 1750 ma max. At that current i use 140.2 volts. At 179 that's room for 39 more volts. That's why i thought 5 was possible. The pct cree tool has an option to put the # of COBs in a string and see the total volts for the string. Very handy but i can only get it to work on a desktop. Basicly at max power your cobs will divide equally the total watts. Mine are at 62.5 w each at max and they blast.

Peace, Roast.
 

Dion

Active member
dunno how big ur space is(coulndt find it)

but the current u chose to run your cobs is very important probbaly the most important

4x3590 on the hlg240 1750mA is a great match(250w)

4x3070 on the hlg185 1400mA(200w)


or for higher efficency
5x3590 on hlg240 1400mA
4x3590 on hlg185 1400mA

dont forget to get holders for ur cobs
the reflectors are not needed in ur case but they only cost an extra 2 bucks from jerry so why not?
 

man0os

Member
@Dion
Did you ever do a write-up of where to source the parts when living I Europe?
I wish someone would sell a plug and play EU-produced COB light for a reasonable price.
The shipping for the Growmau5 COBS at cutter is ridiculous :-(
 

pegasus

Member
Unable to send private messages because the 50 post limit or something. But i would be interested to hear you out :tiphat:
 

monarch

Member
update:

Got the fixture in with just the PL-L lights. Current grow will finish out under them until the LED's arrive. Waiting fro a quote on them... alibaba has to be the worst interface I have ever used. Im considering paying more just for less hassle.

Had some trouble with the PL-l wiring. Was uncertain about overdriving them with two wires, but they are going on week three right now and all seems fine.



still need pl-l reflectors. have to find a metal break.

 

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monarch

Member
also want to add that the pl-l is quite respectable on its own. This is probably the most neglected grow I have ever done. These plants spent their first 6 weeks of flower under 6500K. Once I got the pl-l's on the new fixture and installed I broke one of my two 4100k lights. So they are finishing under 2 6500k and 1 4100k. Yikes I know! but a replacement 4100k and two 3000k's are on their way for the next grow. Next grow will also have 4 new 3590CXB's CD bin in 3500k with a MW 185H-C1400A driver.

Should I add a 10k pot? I know the C is adjustable. Will a 10k pot give me more adjustability if i use that and not the one on the driver?
 
also want to add that the pl-l is quite respectable on its own. This is probably the most neglected grow I have ever done. These plants spent their first 6 weeks of flower under 6500K. Once I got the pl-l's on the new fixture and installed I broke one of my two 4100k lights. So they are finishing under 2 6500k and 1 4100k. Yikes I know! but a replacement 4100k and two 3000k's are on their way for the next grow. Next grow will also have 4 new 3590CXB's CD bin in 3500k with a MW 185H-C1400A driver.

Should I add a 10k pot? I know the C is adjustable. Will a 10k pot give me more adjustability if i use that and not the one on the driver?

A models have an internal pot. B models have 3 in 1 dimming that you can solder on a 100k pot to get 10%-100% of max.
 

monarch

Member
I received all the parts. wired it up and no light.

Im using a HLG-185-C1400A as my driver

and 4 x CXB3590-CD 36v

I triple checked the wiring and all is good. The cob's were installed in their holders with corresponding positive and negative. Series wiring is correct.

The cord Im using from my power in source is 16 gauge braided and power connectors from home Lowes rated for 20-12 gauge. All the wiring to the cobs from the driver is 18 gauge solid.

I tried adjusting the dimmer on the driver and thats not the issue.

Two things it think it might be are the push in style connectors or my power chord feeding the driver.

Any thoughts?
 

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