Help: Controlling Fan Speed Centrifugal Fan

[DiscoBiscuit]

You can open up more intake to keep the tent from imploding. I use a Dial-A-Temp rheostat controller, it's basically a resister. I've seen them advertised for wood stoves so I assumed it would work for an ActiveAir blower. Works fine, no buzz.

here's a link with a pic. (just add www. and paste in your browser.) northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SA-4008

To be on the safe side, I'd call or e-mail the manufacturer or distributor for a compatible controller.

 

[Bottled Cat]

Yeah, I am thinking of just selling my current fan and getting an Eco Plus blower. They are fairly cheap at my local Hydro store. Any input on how efficient these are? Or if you can use a speedster type controller on them?

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I'm not a tech but I've read that controllers are motor-type specific. Might be a good idea to inquire. Since you're going to the shop, ask the clerk if you can test the fan/controller combo they recommend before you buy. If it hums, you'll know.

Sorry, don't know anything about eco plus.

 

[Flying High]

I hate the electrical noise!!!
So I called Elicent(Continental fan?) tech support and was given the solution to the electrical noise...
I was told the capacitor needs to have full power at all times, while the speed control should only controls the "hot" line into the motor. This requires running an extra, dedicated hot line to the capacitor in the motor junction box from a non-gfi equipped outlet(You can make it work on the gfi but must plug everything in a particular sequence)...

Stock out of the box, the fans have a jumper wire from the "hot" wire terminal to the capacitor terminal. This means when you chop the power down with some sort of control, the capacitor is not getting correct power. to fix this, you remove the jumper wire and provide full power to the capacitor while only speed controlling the "hot" wired directly to the motor.

I have wired both Elicent and CAP brand inline fans with this modification from 6" all the way to 12" with identically perfect results, no humming from the motor, just air noise.


hope this helps
H

 

[growshopfrank]

IMHO, it's safer to use than a Variac... I was once electrocuted by a Variac hooked up to an inline fan, so I can tell you this from experience. Just hang the fan on some bungees to get rid of the hum.

electrocuted? wow you must be typing from the great beyond

 

[choch]

I hate the electrical noise!!!
So I called Elicent(Continental fan?) tech support and was given the solution to the electrical noise...
I was told the capacitor needs to have full power at all times, while the speed control should only controls the "hot" line into the motor. This requires running an extra, dedicated hot line to the capacitor in the motor junction box from a non-gfi equipped outlet(You can make it work on the gfi but must plug everything in a particular sequence)...

Stock out of the box, the fans have a jumper wire from the "hot" wire terminal to the capacitor terminal. This means when you chop the power down with some sort of control, the capacitor is not getting correct power. to fix this, you remove the jumper wire and provide full power to the capacitor while only speed controlling the "hot" wired directly to the motor.

I have wired both Elicent and CAP brand inline fans with this modification from 6" all the way to 12" with identically perfect results, no humming from the motor, just air noise.


hope this helps
H

You've really got my attention there. Are you describing using one of the cheapo fan speed controllers (that usually cause that infernal hum) with this method?

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I have wired both Elicent and CAP brand inline fans with this modification from 6" all the way to 12" with identically perfect results, no humming from the motor, just air noise.


hope this helps
H

hot wire > cap > controller > motor?

A rough diagram would be helpful.

 

[rick shaw]

If you don't safely discharge your capacitor first you will be sorry.

 

[dunkydunk]

I hate the electrical noise!!!
So I called Elicent(Continental fan?) tech support and was given the solution to the electrical noise...
I was told the capacitor needs to have full power at all times, while the speed control should only controls the "hot" line into the motor. This requires running an extra, dedicated hot line to the capacitor in the motor junction box from a non-gfi equipped outlet(You can make it work on the gfi but must plug everything in a particular sequence)...

Stock out of the box, the fans have a jumper wire from the "hot" wire terminal to the capacitor terminal. This means when you chop the power down with some sort of control, the capacitor is not getting correct power. to fix this, you remove the jumper wire and provide full power to the capacitor while only speed controlling the "hot" wired directly to the motor.

I have wired both Elicent and CAP brand inline fans with this modification from 6" all the way to 12" with identically perfect results, no humming from the motor, just air noise.


hope this helps
H

Could you provide a little more detail on rewiring the fan's capacitor?

 

[Drybulb230]

I had all these problems...So i started building my own fans or using blower fans from AC/Furnaces.You can size your motor, Blade, Cage all to fit your needs. Plus Most AC blower fans have built in sensors that detect static pressure to control the speed of the fan. Basically you install a flap which you use to control the airflow/speed. Also most AC motors have internal Gears and separate wiring for a sped controller. So there are two ways to control speed.Plus most Blower fans Have a capacitor as well. I get all my fans for about $20 bucks a peice and they range from 700cfm-6000cfm AND ARE WHISPER QUIT!. My ecoplus 235cfm is way nosier than my 230w 1.3HP 4000cfm fan.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Good point, rick shaw. Messing with caps is very dangerous.

 

[choch]

I just tested this with an 8" elicent and the "vari-speed" fan speed controller sold at many grow stores. No nasty hum!

My main concern is the fact that someone could leave the cap supplied with power after turning the fan motor off with the speed control switch. Not sure if that would simply keep the cap charged or if it would be dangerous.

 

[Flying High]

You've really got my attention there. Are you describing using one of the cheapo fan speed controllers (that usually cause that infernal hum) with this method?

Exacty!!!


I'm scanning the Elicent speed control diagram as I type so I can add the image to this post; but here is a quick description...
(as always please understand that this modification could fuck your shit up if done wrong! When in doubt ask for help)

Open the junction box cover and you will see a wiring block with five separate positions each with two set-screws. You will see a jumper wire of some sort from the "hot" block to the capacitor block. Remove this and run a "hot" line directly to the capacitor block. You will need to drill a hole in the box to feed the wire through. I tape this wire to the standard electrical pigtail making the new one slightly longer also adding a polarized plug to finish it off. Then you can plug this wire into a non-controlled outlet.

edit: the elicent drawing shows their own brand control with two hot wires. I have used standard "speedster" style controls using the description above.


hope it helps

H

 

[choch]

I can't believe the headaches that little diagram could have saved me over the years! Thanks a ton for taking the time to post that.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

hehe, if you touch a charged cap you'll have more than a headache.

 

[Indian Culture]

Cool diagram!

 

[SMOKE-ONE]

Exacty!!!


I'm scanning the Elicent speed control diagram as I type so I can add the image to this post; but here is a quick description...
(as always please understand that this modification could fuck your shit up if done wrong! When in doubt ask for help)

Open the junction box cover and you will see a wiring block with five separate positions each with two set-screws. You will see a jumper wire of some sort from the "hot" block to the capacitor block. Remove this and run a "hot" line directly to the capacitor block. You will need to drill a hole in the box to feed the wire through. I tape this wire to the standard electrical pigtail making the new one slightly longer also adding a polarized plug to finish it off. Then you can plug this wire into a non-controlled outlet.

edit: the elicent drawing shows their own brand control with two hot wires. I have used standard "speedster" style controls using the description above.


hope it helps

H

Im sure glad I stumbled across this thread.Thanks for all the good info "Flying High".Im moving from a closet to a larger space.I'm planning on purchasing a 12in.fan and a speed controller.Does this method only work with elicent fans and controllers?Because I was planning on getting a Vortex fan.

 

[DanielOz]

Ac fans are difficult to control the whole range. Each fan has is own characteristics. There is usually a relatively dead patch at the lower end. even sometime up to 70% meaning that you may only have control over the top 30% hence why there seems to be no speed adjustment at 50% and below.

We manufacture our own phase angle controllers here in aus. Not specifically for this but they are used for any applications where you want to switch the voltages to control power. Many people make them and you can probably get a cheap one that will last a few years form Taiwan.

I will be using this along with some timers to control 1 or two fans. so I can reduce the CFM, plus this controller

http://www.fastron.com.au/f312-cat.pdf

 

[DanielOz]

reduce the CFm, and switch on at intervals. But it ends up costing around $200AUD for both