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help :(1 week old, light green in color, yellow tips -pro-mix

Cat Jockey

Member
I run my promix at 5.6 to 5.8. Here is a little chart that you may find useful View Image

That chart right there? That is what I refer to as, 'that fuckin' blue chart that St0ney from the old HC boards made an then got plastered all over the net.'

Throw dat shit away. Delete it from your hard drive. Not only are his numbers wrong, but it doesn't work like that - the way a bar graph represents, not a small point.

How many people in this thread were a member of that forum, where St0ney was a mod with a small hydro grow with issues, when he came up with that and threw shit like that and that every hydro must use epsom salts, etc.?

I was. I know who made that chart and I know the problems he was having, and I know the incorrect diagnosis and remedy applied to his garden.

I'll address your question in a bit, booyah, going to go deal with the doggies for a bit.
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
Always start your Ruderalis hybrid in the same place or container you plan to harvest it from.

Pondered. It's BS. Pot loves fresh soil. They do not like the watering for removing the rootball without damage followed by watering in, but sitting seedlings in a 4 gallon container is worse. It's wet forever and evaporation concentrates the salts. You're filling the container with salt that the tiny plant can't use. My last grow had a dozen AF's, they went to 5' - after topping - anyways, with containers solidly full of roots after chopping. In promix, with limestone and 2 repots. If your lime was hydrated lime like a lot of stores sell then it's a problem because that's hydroxide which will seriously raise pH. If it's carbonate limestone, it will be more inert. You shouldn't be watering every other day regardless of how much you water.

That is incorrect information. One of the origins of that myth is the fact that a large portion of what is in tap water is Ca, and some Mg. RO got popular and people thought they were putting two and two together to get 4. The only reason you need to add Cal/Mag to a nutrient regiment in a peat/perlite/vermiculite mix (which is what I think you are using - think I saw you added dolomite lime, as well, which I don't understand why ...), is if your base nutrient mfg didn't put enough Ca and Mg in there, like with Botanicrap's Pure Blend Pro line.

The manufacturers assume calcium in the water and would prefer not to add any so as not to precipitate insoluble Ca and Mg salts. The limestone in promix will only come into play as it reacts with acid and is intended to be acid buffer instead of Ca provider. This is from the GH Maxi series feed chart, it is good advice and I'd add that at least 10% perlite should be mixed in and less nute used unless you're dialed in and the plants are sucking water. And to piss off everyone else - I've tried every pH in promix accidentally or deliberately, and prefer 6.2. The peat is acid, the product of ammonium metabolism is acid, the nutes are acid, it doesn't need any more acid.

• Lime soilless mix with 1 cup (250 ml) Dolomite Lime per cubic foot of medium (typically 5 cups or 1250 ml per bale of Sunshine or Pro Mix.) Do not lime soilless mix if you have hard water!
• Allow 15% of the container volume to run-off with each irrigation to reduce salt buildup. For one 3 gallon container allow about 1/2 gallon (about 1 to 2 Litres) of run off.
• Periodically measure the pH and TDS/EC of the nutrient run-off to help determine adjustments as required.
• Flush medium weekly or as required with pure, pH adjusted water to prevent salt build up.
• Fertilize at the prescribed rates every 3rd irrigation or at 1/4 strength with each irrigation.
 

boooyah

Member
hey joe,

" If your lime was hydrated lime like a lot of stores sell then it's a problem "

This is the lime that I used
 

Smokin Joe

Humpin to please
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I like the powdered kind. Honestly though I have never over limed so can't really say what it will do :dunno: Only time I have added lime to the mix was after 4 uses. And then it was only 1 cup to 5 gal. Also I don't amend with anything but chunky perlite so what you are doing is a bit different.
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
Looks like it's dolomitic limestone, from the neutralizing value calcium carbonate equivalent. Lime according to my dictionary is CaO not CaCO3 so you have to guess what something being sold as lime really is. Powder might dissolve quickly, but chunks will last and not effect pH as much.

I've started using pelletized lime that's heavily processed with organic binder in it, the cashier couldn't believe it was only $4 for 40 pounds.
 

Cat Jockey

Member
Flowering plants looking healthy or it didn't happen!

Ya know, Heather, I ain't so impressed by someone choosing a girl's name and then claiming to be a female grower. Naked pics of you in your garden, to prove it, or it didn't happen.

It's all yours, Heather. I think I ma done playing this silly game with you - it is getting stoopid and ridiculous. So, booyah is in yer 'expert hands'.

Booyah. There is enough enough in these posts and the links I provided to get yourself setup up with a successful nutrient regime (provided you are in the right pot size). There are plenty more posts from other people, too, to look around for, discussing watering to 10-15% runoff and the 'ol 'lift the pot method'.

Best 'o luck
 

heatherlonglee

Active member
Pro-Mix HP is a soiless mix. You don't let a soiless mix dry out its that simple.

I run the MaxiSeries nutrients. I run a drain to waste system. The directions on the Feed chart say to water to 5%-25% runoff. The system is called drain to waste. The directions I read before doing anything ever growing say to "allow 5-25% runoff during each erigation". I got that run off stuff from the very beginning.

2 Legal CO, read Boooyah's next post after your question he understands.
 
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heatherlonglee

Active member
Boooyah I had looked into the Earth Juice (great name for nutrient) and considered running it. I knew most likely they said to use tap water, and also I knew they didn't recommend PH'ing.

Cat Jockey doesn't know how to use a soiless mix that simple. Cat Jockey doesn't recommend tap water only RO? Cat Jockey is a master but doesn't know that there is hard water nutrients? Cat Jockey doesn't know about no PH'ing needed in organics? Cat Jockey doesn't read directions and then acts like a master grower. Yeah he don't know much!

Cat Jockey I don't see the things you describe in your photo's? I see a few plants in veg that's all in the photo's?
 

Apache Kush

Member
I was talking to the Cat Jockey guy, he has a ****y attitude.
Totaly highjacked this thread with his old pics and shit, wtf who cares
I think your right just bad water early on...

I hope because that would be easy to fix compared to the other stuff, gl
 

Medog

New member
I'll jump in.

Trying to diagnose a specific nutrient issue on a plant this young in a pot that big can be anything but a precise science, certainly over da Net.

So, instead of just rambling off different reasons why a plant that young can be showing yellowing leaves, you okay with me talking about the specifics of your grow that even if they aren't contributing, today, to what you see, will cause you problems in the near future and have a negative effect upon your quantity and quality of harvest?

A huge issue you are going to have in the next couple-3 weeks is managing your moisture content in your pots. Failure here will decrease your harvest, or significantly increase your veg time.

Overwatering and overfertilizing are the top 2 mistakes made by new weed farmers. You are setting yourself up to over water. In fact, it is going to be VERY difficult to not overwater in your case. I consider myself an expert at weed farming, and I would have a helluva time not overwatering those plants.

Those seedlings should be in a pot about the size of a 16oz. plastic cup. A 4 gallon pot is way too big for your setup and plants that size. You should then have another size pot to transplant into before you jump to the 4 gallon pot size. I would advise 3 different pot sizes for your grow.

You need to be gentle, but I personally would make the very first task to repot those seedlings into an appropriate sized pot. You will harvest less (because your plants will spend the first few weeks of their life water stressed and not grow as much as non-stressed plants) if you continue to try to grow those seedlings in a 4 gallon pot.

I would repot those seedlings before I did anything else. I would make it a priority.

The second problem that is going to have you chasing your tail is this:



You've come this far. RO filters are relatively cheap, and if you don't want to go that route, filtered water isn't too pricey, compared to all of your equipment/nutrient costs.

You are going to fight nutrient lockout in your rootzone, and any pH down you use deterioates the quality of your nutrient solution.

Maybe someone else will chime in on the pot size issue. Just trying to help. Let me know if I didn't and more info would be of use ...
Found your reply great, answered some points for me!
THANKS
 

2 Legal Co

Active member
Veteran
Pro-Mix HP is a soiless mix. You don't let a soiless mix dry out its that simple.

I run the MaxiSeries nutrients. I run a drain to waste system. The directions on the Feed chart say to water to 5%-25% runoff. The system is called drain to waste. The directions I read before doing anything ever growing say to "allow 5-25% runoff during each erigation". I got that run off stuff from the very beginning.

2 Legal CO, read Boooyah's next post after your question he understands.
Was just hoping you'd elaborate. The parameters were a bit vague.

I don't use pro mix myself. Nor do I get real carried away with additives and such. lol

Denver eh? I'm close when I'm home.
 

boooyah

Member
I just quoted the reply that was nearby.. I was directing it towards your original ph comment, I appreciated the quick easy answer.
 
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