Heaths latest tree grow

[Scrogerman]

Thanks Heath,
Yeah i really rate the silicon, Budlink im using this run. One other thing bro, i noticed you was using VitalinkMax Nutes before, Whats your take on those man? Ive been on the VitaLinkMax for 4 runs now & love the stuff but always start off with the Ionic anyway, seedlings take Ionic very well ive noticed but i prefer the NPK ratio of the Vita after 3 weeks or so. Are you sticking with the Ionic man? Plants love the stuff for sure, Growth is rapid & strong. Cheers again Heath! 'Keep Rocking those Massive trees out Bro'!

 

[MediMary]

hey billy, good to see you around, = )

 

[Billy Liar]

Hey heath,
the questions wont be complicated, but the answers might... LOL
I've not read the full thread so I apologise if any Q's have been answered....


in this pic;

we can see two hoses going through the top of the tank, so simple Question; what do they do...?
secondly, did you get my addy? I sent it at the other site....
You got any pics of how you're running your res on this system? Mainly what are you using as a res? And are you implementing any method of keeping the res cool, I remember the copper coil with mains cold water dripping through. Not sure if it was you but I remember a sunken res in the floor...
even running only 600 watts I needed to hook up my chiller this summer. My chiller is used for other purposes, so is always on, and doesn't seem to use any more electric when I run my nutes through..
Now its up to you to keep the answers simple...hehehe

Hi MediMary, thanks for the welcome...

new forum new smilies......LOL

peace
BL

 

[cyat]

Heath,
I am setting up a system with twin 20 gal brute trash cans fitted with 5 gal inner buckets.I think having the return pipe set to the inner bucket allows for a smaller res?Is that right?Would that setup also prevent over flooding the res?Do I need a high res like another brute or could I use a shorter wider 27 gal box?Would I need separate drains with valves for maintainece?not sure how I would get all the water out. Im also a little confused how your float valve is setup.Sorry for so many questions but I dont want to mess it up, and I have the parts ready to go.Thank you for all of you help.You are a very generous person!

 

[coxie]

cages?

cages?

Heath,

Where can I learn about tying up the branches (properly), the cages ARE a pita. I'm here to learn brother.

Coxie

 

[DHF]

Coxie........Did yas not read my post bout stapling chicken wire to yer ceilings where yas can open up a plant while tyin em up in 1000 different places just so , since chicken wire`s got massive amounts of lil holes and easyta work with IME......Usedta be hardta see my plants for the spiderwebs of support strangs........Learned my lessons the hard way......

Not enough support and the limbs will grow around the strings and choke off the nutrient uptake to said limbs , and cause limited juice dispersal when it`s needed for swelling late flower and affect bottom line yields.......

They make plant yo yo`s with hooks , but yas gotta screw sumthin into the ceilins ta hook em to...........

Heathie`s set in his ways and KNOWS what ta do with them hooks on the ceiling guaranteed or his shit`d be layin on the floor ......Been tryin ta swap him over ta chicken wire for yrs.......He ain`t buyin it...........think it`s a krusty phobia.......LOL....

Tyin up big plants takes runs under your belt ta know where ta tie , cuz they can snap between where yas tie em if too full of juice lights off.....Big plants flower , swell , and get heavy at night.........rather.......

All plants flower at night , but big plants get heavy as fuck before lights on late flower.........It`s a sight ta behold.......gotta know when/whereta ta tie.....I`m sure Heathie`ll agree and maybe teach us somethin else cuz he makes it look easy peasy , slick and greasy............

They suck juice and pump resin lights on after the stretch till finish........And I`m still learnin bout the other fine tuning , but I have observed that much over the yrs...............

Silicablast and whatever silica supplement they sell cross da pond is PARAMOUNT in stem wall strength ta hold up those colas IME.....

Peace.....DHF...............

 

[coxie]

Thanks DHF. I appreciate the info. Do you have a thread on the forum? I'm new here, so I don't know the farmers yet.

 

[Stoned Crow]

Good to see you're you're teaching again... I was lucky enough to get some of your NLxWW/G13 as freebies from Doc C's old site, damn that's a good strain. I did a run of it last fall and the patients loved it. Keep postin' your grows & be safe......SC

 

[piradio]

This is just amazin.

 

[*mistress*]

tree support. teehee...

tree support. teehee...

@ coxie...

drill 2x4's to ceiling (studs), in "t"'s, &/or length-wise in room, like this "|", before garden starts.

on either side of 2x4's, drill in 7.5cm screws, maybe every 15-20cm.
tie cords, string, twine, dental floss, etc. to screws. cords hang to pl@nt/branch level. when branch becomes heavy, use closest hanging string to tie up branch....

2x4's... 7.5cm screws... string. end.

good infos DHF...
silica @ ~50ppm...
calcium @~ same ppm as nitrogen
foliar k-nit @ 1g/l

 

[Relentless]

wow! amazing as usual Heath! Ive followed your grows for some time and always enjoyed them!! keep up the good work, I know ya will

 

[cyat]

http://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment....http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/attach/jpg.gif =1284602074

Here's what I came up with usings Heath's design and help.Creative criticism is welcome.Not sure if the pics are showing.

 

[MyGreenToe]

Well Cyat I guess I'm confused.
It seems like the center bin is your main reservoir. If so, it is your big limiting factor here, for a few reasons. It's going to absorb heat from your lamps. You can only fill it up to the same level you want your plant sites to be at, which limits how much it will hold.
My recommendation is to add a 4th Brute to your system. You want a high reservoir so it takes longer for the water level to equalize with the system, so if using a short reservoir, raise it up enough to keep it mostly above the water level you are trying to maintain at your plant sites. Then connect it to your system through a float valve in the middle bin. That way you can fill it all the way up, and it will top off your system when it needs it, to keep your water level at the right height to avoid cord roots.(see Heath I've been paying attention in class!) In a perfect world, I would pull that middle Brute out and move him out of the room somewhere, sitting right next to the 4th Brute/additional res I suggested. I can only guess you put it there due to some limitation of your space, and one must do what works in those situations.
Get yourself some of that silver insulating wrap like Heath uses, and cover all your brutes, and the plumbing bits too.

Get it dialed, set up 3 600's, and let her rip! Thanks for sharing the pics, I love to see new tree growers!

 

[cyat]

MGT,
Thanks for the info.The center one is the res, wasnt sure how to set it up.This is a test as veg unit, and if it works I will build one for flower.I havnt let it rip yet so I can rearrange.Im not worried about heat as I will be using 300w huge cfls on ea.If I can get it running smooth Ill hit it with a metal halide.If you look at my return pipes they are set from high to low.I might have understood wrong ,but from heaths autocads , I thought this one would allow the water level to sit at the bottom of the inner bucket independant of the res water height?So you suggest raising the res up, and add another res with another pump and float valve to top off when 1st res gets low?Also you suggest to move the res away from the lights and wrap everything?Correct me if I misunderstood.Look at the pic again how the return pipes go from the height of the inner bucket to the bottom of the res(the big white pipes) wouldnt that work?Thanks for all the help I'm open to suggestions as I am building this right now, but I want to fire up tonight ,so anyone suggest away,I want this thing to blaze!

 

[MyGreenToe]

MGT,
Thanks for the info.The center one is the res, wasnt sure how to set it up.This is a test as veg unit, and if it works I will build one for flower.I havnt let it rip yet so I can rearrange.Im not worried about heat as I will be using 300w huge cfls on ea.If I can get it running smooth Ill hit it with a metal halide.If you look at my return pipes they are set from high to low.I might have understood wrong ,but from heaths autocads , I thought this one would allow the water level to sit at the bottom of the inner bucket independant of the res water height?So you suggest raising the res up, and add another res with another pump and float valve to top off when 1st res gets low?Also you suggest to move the res away from the lights and wrap everything?Correct me if I misunderstood.Look at the pic again how the return pipes go from the height of the inner bucket to the bottom of the res(the big white pipes) wouldnt that work?Thanks for all the help I'm open to suggestions as I am building this right now, but I want to fire up tonight ,so anyone suggest away,I want this thing to blaze!

If this is a veg unit I wouldnt worry about heat as much.

So long as you don't intend the center brute to hold a higher level of water than the outer ones, you will be fine in regards to the water levels. You won't have much reserve of solution, but it would be fine, and the level in your plant containers would stay the same so long as there is enough solution in the system to support that. I suppose it could work without an external reservoir, but it would require frequent topoffs once they start growing. I would not recommend setting up a flowering system without the extra reservoir, but you can probably manage it in veg without too much difficulty. You can only go so big in veg indoors anyways so that will be a limiting factor before the small reserve of solution in your system is.

 

[cyat]

MyGreenToe,
Thanks for the reply.I will move the res anyway as you suggest.Are you saying to raise or lower the res, or use a bigger taller one? I will add the extra res with a float valve after I get this working.It seems that I'm back to the drawing board with my connectors since everything leaked on my test.I used 1 1/2 in. electrical male / female connectors with an o ring on the inside.Plumbing 3/4 male to irrigation female with valves.Everything is leaking.O man this is killing me and my wallet.Any suggestions on water tight fittings for return and drain lines?I might skip the drain lines if I have to start over.If any out there can help I'm listening , I need to do this right the first time, woops the 2nd time .Help I'm drowning!

 

[MyGreenToe]

MyGreenToe,
Thanks for the reply.I will move the res anyway as you suggest.Are you saying to raise or lower the res, or use a bigger taller one? I will add the extra res with a float valve after I get this working.It seems that I'm back to the drawing board with my connectors since everything leaked on my test.I used 1 1/2 in. electrical male / female connectors with an o ring on the inside.Plumbing 3/4 male to irrigation female with valves.Everything is leaking.O man this is killing me and my wallet.Any suggestions on water tight fittings for return and drain lines?I might skip the drain lines if I have to start over.If any out there can help I'm listening , I need to do this right the first time, woops the 2nd time .Help I'm drowning!

Switch to PVC, problem solved. If you are in the UK, you can get those nice compression fittings like Heath uses. Here in the states, the cheapest option seems to be plain old glued pvc fittings.
No reason to raise your pump reservoir. I was talking about the secondary reservoir that will feed the pump reservoir via the float valve. It will stop topping off your reservoir when it reaches the same level(at which point they will sink together). It can therefore be advantageous to raise that secondary reservoir off the ground some to ensure it tops off your system properly until the next fill up. The pump reservoir is fine where its at on the ground level. Raising it would only reduce its capacity.

 

[cyat]

MGT,
Gotcha on the res w/ top up.I'm still in the dark on the fittings as I'm using pvc male female with an o ring.Im in california.I'm using the grey electrical male / female couplings on the returns cauase they srewed down tighter than the plumbing ones.The fittings that seem to be water tight are flood drain fittings but these are nowhere near 1 1/2in.I saw something like the one heath uses in the under sink fitting section but not 1 1/2in. Maybe uniseals from a plumbing supply store? gotta get this working.

 

[MyGreenToe]

MGT,
Gotcha on the res w/ top up.I'm still in the dark on the fittings as I'm using pvc male female with an o ring.Im in california.I'm using the grey electrical male / female couplings on the returns cauase they srewed down tighter than the plumbing ones.The fittings that seem to be water tight are flood drain fittings but these are nowhere near 1 1/2in.I saw something like the one heath uses in the under sink fitting section but not 1 1/2in. Maybe uniseals from a plumbing supply store? gotta get this working.

Well those electrical fittings are meant to keep moisture out, not in. You need proper plumping fittings meant to contain water, not keep it out. Glued fittings will likely be your least expensive option. Draw a diagram and figure out what fittings you need, then go to the plumber's supply early and stay until you figure it all out. A plumbers supply will have proper bulkhead fittings with rubber gaskets too. Just get it all at once and be happy you did it right. Plumbing costs are hard to swallow, but if you get the right stuff you shouldn't have to buy it but once.

 

[Neo 420]

Damn... I came super late to the party!! Jus wanna say super nice grows Heath!!!!