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Heat tape for cold buckets

Three Berries

Active member
The heaters is for wintertime and the temps at lights off may get as low as the upper 50fs. But the water tanks are for absorbing and releasing heat.

The heat tapes worked great BTW set at 72F. Just be sure to size the width of the tape to the container. 4" is a bit big for what I got at 3.5 gal. 5 gal would be good. Way too big for my little 1 gallon pots.

300-400w with 100w used for heat control cycling at 83F. I usually have a mister running in a filter box that feeds the tent. And have to add soggy towels sometimes, depends on ambient. Lights off I maintain <79% RH.

Usually humidity control takes care of high temps but with summer time here it's a struggle with temps keeping it under 85F and humidity is what it is, close to the good VDP numbers. Usually the VDP is right where I want it and a little dry, 1.0-1.25 or so.

There is constant ventilation through this tent. Using a 6" AC Infinity with the low speed set at 1 summer, winter that goes up to 2.

High CO2 in winter too.

It appears from just last night the tanks will run at the temp of the incoming air as that is where that air hits. They are sitting on a piece of 1" insulation. The temp may slowly rise over the next few days a the water was 70F to start.

The heaters are on a controller. 1F spread so on at 71F off at 72F. Once the pots are heated up and as long as they stay wet they hold the heat pretty good so the cycle times are short. The heaters are just taped to the bucket so removing them is no big deal. Not used in the summer.

Thinking about cutting a hole in the floor in the closet the filter box is in so I can draw cool air out of the crawlspace in the summer instead of the house.
 

Three Berries

Active member
I've used these for over a year now and for the second winter. A few points to make.

I used 4" heat tape and would go 3", it will take a bit longer to heat but slower. As it is now I have a 3-4F over run from the 71F on 72F off. I used the 4" on smaller buckets and it is way too big. Better to error on too small if case of malfunction as it will cook the roots in a hurry. I had some on smaller buckets they should use 2" tape.

The pots are 73F or so to when the lights come on, then the soil will heat up to the tent temp over time. Then slowly drop after lights out. The heaters on a 18/6 cycle are running maybe 1.5 hours at most.

Also put in a means to disconnect the heater from the cord at the bucket. Waterproof two conductors are what you need. Really a pain to take the buckets out of the tent with the power cord attached.

I have all the temp probes mounted on a stick all inserted at the same depth and right next to the side of the buckets. About 2" deep for the tip of the probe.
 

Vandenberg

Well-known member
Very interesting, I like it, food for thought for various applications.
My thought was using that Flexwatt tape and those now cheaply priced probe temp controllers with your basic rubber tub worm bins to maintain ideal (?) temperatures, especially with heat Loving African nightcrawlers, for example, even with the cold hardier red worm tubs. :) i 'd only put it on one side so they could have desirable temp zone options.

Vandenberg :)
 
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Three Berries

Active member
This heat tape can be exposed to water. Just need to keep the connector ends dry. I use some electrical underground splicing tape to cover the exposed connections and the end where it was cut and is exposed. It's a thick self vulcanizing rubber.
 

Three Berries

Active member
Why not just a temp controlled heatmat? At least is moisture protected..
These are moisture protected and they are on the sides of the bucket too so. You wouldn't be submerging the heat mat. A heat mat does not make good contact with a big planter, lot of exposed area not heating plant. My buckets are elevated in 1/2" rings for drainage.
 

St. Phatty

Active member
It's not hard to make a good heater.

With 5 or 12 volts provided by a computer power supply.

Just wind wire of the correct resistance around the pots you want to keep warm.

Of course it involves a bit of learning and - if you make a mistake - there is a fire danger.
 
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