Guerilla Underground Thread

['Boogieman']

I'm very impressed Hopare you sure make it look easy.

Hey everybody, how is everything going in the gardens this month?

Been a while since I have really posted much about anything and I assume along with everyone else that we are all very busy this time of the year. This is the most exciting time of year for the guerilla and quiet possibly the hardest as well unfortunately.

I have had a few problems myself over this last month. Had vegged some girls indoor in 1 gal containers for around a month and a half. After transplanting to 10 gallon grow bags outdoors, had a few that tended to go straight into flower without the possibility of the root system establishing itself due to the shift of focus from veg straight to flower which in return is gonna give me some shitty yield in the end. But however, the good news is that I only threw out 10 plants out of 60 so far just as a test to see how they performed. So I have changed the game up a little bit.

Instead of going straight from 1gal to 10gal, I have since put the 1 gals in 3 gal bags to continue vegging and building the root system. They will go into 10 gallon from 3 gallon tonight/tomorrow and CONTINUE vegging indoor until the root system is completely established in the 10 gallon bags before I even consider throwing them outside to bloom. This will give me the results I am looking for, just kind of hurting on room to veg so many plants indoor in such large containers. I estimate within a couple of weeks that all plants will be ready to go from 10 gallon bags under 20/4 hr lighting to the outdoor light schedule to finish them off.

Next year I plan on not starting so late and have then out and vegging in 20 and 40 gallon grow bags and the roots established outside by mid June. I have had a problem the last couple years with organization, that needs to be addressed promptly.

I'm hoping to still pull 10lbs plus this year. I still have plenty of girls that are in the ground and have been since early spring, they will help me obtain my goals since they are much larger plants.

One thing I have picked up and learned for those interested in planting late in the year, is when vegging indoor before transplanting to the outdoors make sure and try your best NOT to wait too far into flowering till you throw them out UNLESS you have your plants root system and veg goals fully established and in tact, make sure it is the size you want it before putting outside. It would help to throw them out a couple of weeks before flowering starts as well. One more thing I will say is during your transplant from indoor to outdoor do not go easy on the nutes when you water them in. Give them a hefty dose (if you are using chem ferts take it a little easier) of fertilizer to jump start them as much as possible because that one feeding is very crucial because they need all they can get before transitioning into flower quickly.

Well... sorry for the long rant folks, I hope the thread picks back up.

How about we all throw out some photos of the garden and girls? I will try and have some photos by this weekend up and going.

Hope everyone is having a hell of a year out their and yes I mean that in a good way!

Everything is going well so far here in Northern Indiana, and it looks like the choppers are done too. You motivated me to take some picks, I been very busy keeping them health.

The first two picks is purple marocs including a bud shot. Had I known they would start budding in July I would have gotten them in ground way sooner but I'm very impressed with how easy these are to take care of, very drought resistant. Then Blue Widow I have grown since 2012 and will keep growing as it yeilds with good potency, i took this pick in a tree so I could get the whole plant but it made it look smaller even though it's my biggest plant. The rest I haven't grown but so far everything is lookin great, special queen #1, Durban Poison, and pineapple chunk which will finish last I think.

 

['Boogieman']

Blue Widow, Special Queen #1, Durban Poison, and Pineapple Chunk.

 

[MountainBudz]

Well fellars, I have a problem at one of my best plots this year. I noticed since all these heavy rains from the last hurricane down south had blown in and the cloudy days and cool nights have decides to break out the "Leaf Spot Septoria" disease. And from what I can see the disease starts from the bottom of the plant and works its way up pretty damn fast, within 2 days it took over half of one plant. I have 2 preventatives on hand. Immunox "eagle 20 " Myclobutanil" and then a bit safer approach Serenade. I am 2 to 3 weeks into flowering give and take on most plants. So I need something to work good, work fast, proven to work so I may start with the Eagle 20 as bad as i'd hate to.

I do not like using chemicals, at all. But when your this late into flowering and this could cost the food on your table and clothes on your back then really you have to do what you have to do. Hopefully it does not get too widespread. Looks like all thick brush, thickets, weeds in my area are infected with this nasty shit. I don't usually have a problem with leaf spot, usually its botrytis "bud rot" but I know that is to come soon as well. Around the corner is two more hurricanes blowing in from the south, one after another which is going to increase this shit 10 fold or more. Good thing is, I still have around 40 something females left vegging in a safe house indoor in 10 gallon bags that have not been placed out yet. I believe I made a good choice holding off from planting them outside as long as possible because other wise that would have been 40 plants mid flower by now, sitting in the wet cool rains. I'd rather trade a late cold harvest than the plants sit in the rain for weeks with buds on them. I know for a fact plants can handle the cold much better than rain during flower. I have grown my plants on in yo almost December 1st in the past.

Every corner you decide to take in this guerilla game, there is a bitch waiting on the other side. Something always trying to get the best of your girls whether it is worthless lazy thieves, LEO, diseases, storms, insects, etc... It is always there and always expect to have to deal with one of those predators. It never fails!

Where you at KyGiacomo? Have you any experience with leaf spot bro?

 

[MountainBudz]

I will get back to the thread and all you fine fellars tomorrow. Sunday is about the only day of the week I take it easy and if anything I just go walk around sight seeing of my plants, making plans and jotting down what should be the first thing I jump on Monday morning. The rains from the hurricane will be here before I know it so today i'm focusing on getting these plants sprayed with some prevention. Aghhh....

Mother Nature, why do you have to be such a bitch at times? During good times? During the times we need your sunny and dry smile the most?

Oh well. Life was never meant to be easy.

 

[~star~crash~]

don't feel bad MB i got some kind of leaf spot thing goin on a few plants myself...

 

[Swamp Thang]

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Oh chit. Damn. Lord have mercy. Just look at those avenues of frigging trees. And then, that panoramic aerial shot showing the mad scientist literally dwarfed by his monstrous botanical creations. Now that is the stuff of THC dreams, and I'm here to testify.

I note that somebody is very handy with a machete too, going by the surgical precision of the weeding, all along the rows in that primeval jungle. Looks like the work of a seasoned outdoors-man.

Once again, Professor Hoypare, IC Mag's roving man-on-the-scene posted to Ol' Blighty, has invoked the spirit of the legendary Guerrilla Gorilla, by outdoing himself yet again during this good year of the Ganja Gods, 2017.

In conclusion, may I observe from a dispassionate and scholarly perspective, as follows. .....Yeeeeeeeehaw !

 

[Hoypare.]

Oh chit. Damn. Lord have mercy. Just look at those avenues of frigging trees. And then, that panoramic aerial shot showing the mad scientist literally dwarfed by his monstrous botanical creations. Now that is the stuff of THC dreams, and I'm here to testify.

I note that somebody is very handy with a machete too, going by the surgical precision of the weeding, all along the rows in that primeval jungle. Looks like the work of a seasoned outdoors-man.

Once again, Professor Hoypare, IC Mag's roving man-on-the-scene posted to Ol' Blighty, has invoked the spirit of the legendary Guerrilla Gorilla, by outdoing himself yet again during this good year of the Ganja Gods, 2017.

In conclusion, may I observe from a dispassionate and scholarly perspective, as follows. .....Yeeeeeeeehaw !

Swamp old mate,watch out for the end of season GAZEBO pics

 

[c00k1eFunk]

Hoypare maaaaan, great work
im impressed! i wouldnt have balls to plant a field like yours, i have 5pivate planes per hour flying over my spots haha

Mountain Budz, i feel with you i have similar fears, every OD grower in difficult conditions fells with you.

But homie, dont mess your good herb up with eagle20.
If I wanter to use it, I´d spray the plants down, it will kill the fungi by contact within less than a minute(NOT BUDROT, its useles against botrytis) Would NOT let the nasty shit DRY and soak into your plants! I´d make sure I spray a great amount of actinovate or this Bacillus subtillis product (serenade?) or even Milk or baking soda foliar shortly to wash off the eagle20 as good as possible, this way you wont achieve a great systemic protection from eagle20 but will wash away some of the eagle20.
i would spray one plant, let it sit some seconds and wash-spray same plant after this. if you make it on too many plants it could be dry faster than we can wash it off again.
I have no idea if this works, but thats how i would do it if i really had to...

BOOGIEMAN, if you grow trees like that in a small pot Guerilla outside... you would have mounumental trees in the ground man! I guess you forceflower them for earlyer harvest, but anyways very nice to see these good plants, what you guess from the yield from queen or blueW? around 200gramms?

 

[MountainBudz]

Hoypare maaaaan, great work
im impressed! i wouldnt have balls to plant a field like yours, i have 5pivate planes per hour flying over my spots haha

Mountain Budz, i feel with you i have similar fears, every OD grower in difficult conditions fells with you.

But homie, dont mess your good herb up with eagle20.
If I wanter to use it, I´d spray the plants down, it will kill the fungi by contact within less than a minute(NOT BUDROT, its useles against botrytis) Would NOT let the nasty shit DRY and soak into your plants! I´d make sure I spray a great amount of actinovate or this Bacillus subtillis product (serenade?) or even Milk or baking soda foliar shortly to wash off the eagle20 as good as possible, this way you wont achieve a great systemic protection from eagle20 but will wash away some of the eagle20.
i would spray one plant, let it sit some seconds and wash-spray same plant after this. if you make it on too many plants it could be dry faster than we can wash it off again.
I have no idea if this works, but thats how i would do it if i really had to...

BOOGIEMAN, if you grow trees like that in a small pot Guerilla outside... you would have mounumental trees in the ground man! I guess you forceflower them for earlyer harvest, but anyways very nice to see these good plants, what you guess from the yield from queen or blueW? around 200gramms?

I ended up spraying them all yesterday c00kie. I ended up backing off and waiting on the eagle 20 for now and went ahead and went with some serenade I had on hand at full strength. Gonna give it a try first and if it doesn't knock back the leaf spot and powdery mildew (yes I have that shit on a few plants as well) then I will go with eagle 20. I have "Green Cure" put aside for bud rot for the organic route and for the chemical route (if things get carried away) I always have a bag of water soluble "CAPTAN" on hand.

Thanks bro.

 

['Boogieman']

BOOGIEMAN, if you grow trees like that in a small pot Guerilla outside... you would have mounumental trees in the ground man! I guess you forceflower them for earlyer harvest, but anyways very nice to see these good plants, what you guess from the yield from queen or blueW? around 200gramms?

I need to get something out there to do a size comparison, the Blue widow and Special Queen are in 65 gallon smart pots the rest are in about 30 gallon containers. I just take those round trash bins and cut it a little bit under the handles beats buying pots. I took the pick of the blue widow up in a tree and it looks smaller than it really is but it's my biggest plant and should be about a pound. The special queen I'm guessing 200-250 grams.

The purple Marco's in the ground was really an experiment, I used the 30 gallon pots the year before at that spot and after the grow I dug holes and dumped my soul in it. I think I'm going to do the same this year and plant into the ground next year. The Purple Marco's in ground were very care free all year.

One of my biggest reasons growing in a pot is you can remove everything after a grow and it just looks like deer were bedding down in the area instead of holes with good soil.

 

['Boogieman']

I ended up spraying them all yesterday c00kie. I ended up backing off and waiting on the eagle 20 for now and went ahead and went with some serenade I had on hand at full strength. Gonna give it a try first and if it doesn't knock back the leaf spot and powdery mildew (yes I have that shit on a few plants as well) then I will go with eagle 20. I have "Green Cure" put aside for bud rot for the organic route and for the chemical route (if things get carried away) I always have a bag of water soluble "CAPTAN" on hand.

Thanks bro.

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

 

[c00k1eFunk]

horsetail is gold man, try it out its a natural source of silica! will never see pm or leaf spot again. i will continue to spray horsetail extract until harvest, last weeks i will avoid spraying it on the buds too much but i will...

greencure will hit ph hard and should work against must fungi... but it is very water soluble and heavy rains will wash it away.

• Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
• Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
• Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
• Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

and Boogieman: Wow, i didnt know it was 65 gallon, your plants are much bigger than i was assuming indeed much less care in groud, at least you can be safe, they wont die in a few days thanx to water chrystals and deep deep root

 

[c00k1eFunk]

The use of baking soda as a fungicide is not a new idea. In Alfred C. Hottes' A Little Book of Climbing Plants, published in 1933 by the A.T. De La Mare Co. of New York, mention is made of using one ounce of baking soda per gallon of water to control powdery mildew (PM) on climbing roses. The author credits the idea to a Russian plant pathologist, A. de Yaczenski.(1)

In the August, 1985 issue of Organic Gardening magazine, a short article by Warren Shultz entitled "Recipe for Resistance" reports that researchers in Japan obtained effective control of PM on cucumbers, eggplants, and strawberries. They suggested weekly sprays of ¼ ounce baking soda per gallon of water.(2)

An article in the June, 1990 issue of Greenhouse Manager magazine summarizes the results of three years of testing baking soda as a fungicide for roses. Cornell University researcher Dr. R. Kenneth Horst observed suppression of PM and blackspot—both major problems for New York rose growers. Roses were sprayed every 3 to 4 days with a water solution of baking soda and insecticidal soap. The latter was included for its surfactant qualities. (Surfactants are chemical agents that alter the surface properties of a liquid.) The soap improved the effectiveness of the bicarbonate by making it stick to, and spread evenly over, the leaf surface. Further experimentation proved that the insecticidal soap itself was not responsible for suppressing the diseases. While no specific concentration of baking soda is indicated as being most effective in PM suppression, the article states that a 0.5% solution was most effective in preventing blackspot.(3)

Some of the work at Cornell has focused on controlling fungal diseases on cucurbits.(4) A single spray application (to runoff) of 0.5% (wt./vol. of water) baking soda, plus 0.5% (vol./vol. of water) SunSpray UFP® horticultural oil almost completely inhibited PM on heavily infected pumpkin foliage. Baking soda without spray oil was ineffective, and a 2% (wt./vol. of water) solution of baking soda damaged the leaves. Baking soda/oil sprays also provided good control of urocladium leaf spot in cucumber, alternaria leaf blight in muskmelon, and gummy stem blight in muskmelon.(5) Other diseases against which baking soda may prove effective include anthracnose in cucurbits (6); rust, dollar spot, and pythium blight in turf; late blight in potato; rust in wheat; and diseases affecting peanuts, banana, and alfalfa.(7)

Researchers in Israel reported the successful use of baking soda and SunSpray oil in controlling PM on euonymus.(8) In this research a 2% baking soda and 1% oil solution proved most effective.(9)

On-farm observations on melon acreage in Virginia resulted in one farm operation switching from synthetic fungicides to a baking soda/oil spray. These growers incorporated a liquid fertilizer into the mix.(10)

Research in Germany evaluated baking soda as a control for PM on `Bacchus' grapes. Three spray applications were made, beginning when symptoms first appeared. Good control was achieved with no loss of grape quality. The optimum concentration was a 1% solution.(11)

 

[MountainBudz]

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

It is rumored to work really well for most. That's what silver back always used and recommended.

I do use kelp, I use seaweed juice and extract at every other watering and also foliar spray with it very often and routinely through the week. Kelp is some really good stuff. I have noticed the same this year, less insect problems for sure!

 

[Limeygreen]

Greencure and milstop just have patented spread stickers, milstop has a combo of three of them. If you add a potassium silicate product at the foliar application rate with potassium bicarbonate it's the same thing or even mixed with rhapsody (it has spreader sticker already in it but serenade does not) 850 grammes bicarbonate per 800 litres of water (roughly 1,06 gm per litre). If you test this on a part of the crop first to see any adverse reactions before spraying entire plants and seeing issue, generally spraying any of the premade products or this mix in sunny weather can cause burn, even worse if it is hot out.

 

[MountainBudz]

Well, a little update on the serenade and the leaf spot septoria and powdery mildew. Wen't and checked the girls out this morning and since spraying serenade the plant's have become progressively worse. Leaves spotted up and yellowed so fast they were standing out like a sore thumb from a good distance. Not what I was expecting to see.

So, as I do not have time for this ridiculous shit, onto the Eagle 20 I will go. This evening gonna give the girls 10 ml a piece of "Immunox" a weaker version of Eagle. And every plant that I have not set out of the safe house yet from indoor to out, will get treated with it as well.

I always resort to chemicals before I sacrifice my entire spring, summer and fall put in of hard back breaking work. Oh well, better luck next year eh?

 

[VonBudí]

@MountainBudz


sorry but once leaf spot gets in, its in.

you can slow it down by adding silica, picking infected leaves (disposing of infected leaves very important, bury far away) and by giving them some blood meal,( which has obvious side effects and i dont really recommend) this year iv been spray them with one tea spoon of citrus bronners soap to one litre water and that had slowed it down dramatically.

spray wise dont bother with eagle 20 , captan was imo some proper toxic shit.



nothing first hand but my wish of list of sprays for spoty and botrytis are
actinovate, serenade, azoxystrobin based and prestop, ask in the Massachusetts thread about prestop, people are using it this year. You need to be spraying your plants down and infecting them with the these fungicides before they get infected with leafspot.


regalias another option but suppose to be expensive and no better than actinovate.

what had you been spraying the plants down with earlier in the season? was it yourself or ky who were using some sulfur based fungicide last year?

--------------------------
eu folk - serenade, prestop and azoxystrobin are readily available .

potassium bicarbonate/greencure seems to swing in and out of favour on here, seem to remember it needs regular/daily application?

another option, spray all the surrounding plants with copper fungicdes/ eagle 20/captan shit.

hopefully ky makes an appearance, duskray too.

@c00k1eFunk, duskray sprays his plants with horsetail , way too chicken shit to do it myself, that shit stinks, spilt some on my hand last week and stunk and stained for a whole day. , thanks for the Mycostop mention, another to look into.



SNS 244C was another one bookmarket,dont know anymore, maybe have a look.

 

[c00k1eFunk]

ahahaha, ok it is a little stinky, but bro, nettles and comfrey sitting a month in a tank of water.. this stinks even more , my GF was always angry the flat stinks
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]serenade, prestop (i think mycostop is the same as prestop)
Pls tell me where to get this in EU?[/FONT]

 

[VonBudí]

make her some alfala tea next year, she'll love that.

serenade - bayer - Bacillus subtilis
prestop - icl - Gliocladium catenulatum


bayer and icl are everywhere in the eu. If you ever cant find a product, stick the ingredient into your local google, a local company might be selling a re branded version. If that doenst work ask your local golf/sports/turf specialist stores.

mycostop is Streptomyces griseoviridis

 

['Boogieman']

Went to my spot and took some pictures, everything is going good so far but I'm sure I will have problems with bud rot as I do every year. I'm impressed with the Special Queen #1, it smells strong of lemons and ammonia with some slight spicy skunk smell hard to describe but it smells good though.