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Grow tent Setup - Ventilation + 600W HPS ?

R

redleb961

Member
Hello everyone,

For those who don't know me, i could say i already have enough experience in growing both indoors and outdoors.

Im used to growing inside a grow room, but since im going to be flying to a new country soon, my whole setup is going to be all new.

I always used a 600W HPS from Lumatek, but never in a tent.

I was wondering if the setup i drew is enough for the ventilation to be able to extract the air efficiently while lowering the temps inside the 2x4x6" (60x120x180cm) tent that ill be purchasing.

Im going to be connecting a carbon filter with a 150mm (6inch) opening to a duct reducer of 150 to 125mm (6 to 5inch) , then to a soundproof duct tube of 125mm (6inch) leading to the first 125mm (6inch) hole of the air cooled reflector , then another 125mm (6inch) soundproof duct tube leading to the entry point of a 200mm (8inch) fan : 690-840m3/h (406-494cfm). Both ends of the fan will have size reducers from 200mm (8inch) to 125mm (5inch). Then the air will exit the tent through the 125mm (5inch) duct tube.

At the bottom of the tent , there will be a 100mm (4inch) inline fan blowing air through the bottom. Inline fan specs : 145-187m3/h (85-110cfm).

My question is , would this setup be enough to ventilate and keep temperatures regulated during the lights on period of the 600W HPS light ?

Thanks for the help guys,
Would be much appreciated.

 
RandyCalifornia

RandyCalifornia

Well endowed member
Veteran
It should if your intake is cool.
I have a 4x8 with 2x315 lec and a 750DEhps and an 8" can fan keeps it cool with a 6" intake during the winter running half speed in the winter. In summer I run the 8" full speed and have 2 6" intakes.
Oh and I'm NOT air cooling my lights, I cool the tent. It really all depends on the ambient temperature you are working with. I live where the outside air does not go to extremes.
 
R

redleb961

Member
What about the size of the tent , isnt mine succeptible to more heat since its smaller ? Heat wise, you have the extra 315 approximately, with double the size of your tent .
 
L

Leaflet

Active member
600 watts of HID in a 4x4 tent is no problem, especially since you are using an air-cooled hood.
You don't need an 8 inch fan unless you've already purchased it - 6 inch is fine. Try to keep everything the same diameter and avoid using reducers.
Unless you are having heat issues you shouldn't need an inlet fan. If you do end up needing one, put it on a speed controller so you can adjust it if needed. It will need to push less air than the outlet fan or you will end up putting positive pressure (you'll see the sides bulge out) in the tent and the smells will push out through things like the zippers, vents, etc.
One slight issue I see is you have the inlet and exhaust on the same side. Put them on opposite sides of the tent so that you get crossflow.

Everyone's situation is different, but for what it's worth, I run a 1000 watt HID light with an air-cooled hood in a 4x4 tent. I use a 6 inch 400 CFM inlet fan and a 6 inch 400 CFM outlet fan. The inlet fan stays off unless I need extra cooling, and even then it is usually on low.
 
R

redleb961

Member
I already have the 8inch fan thats why im using reducers , its fine with me. Im going to try the passive intake option, if temps get hot ill use the inline fan. It is actually smaller than the extraction fan so ill have negative pressure indeed.

Im sorry if the image i drew isnt too clear , but the inlet and outlet are at opposite sides indeed for crossflow. Inlet coming from bottom left and extraction on top right.
 
R

redleb961

Member
Forgot to ask , is there any need to get a 2nd inline fan just for the hood ? or i can just get away with the setup i drew ?

Meaning : air inside tent --> filter --> hood --> extraction fan --> exit ?

Or

air outside tent --> inline fan --> hood --> exit
+
air inside tent --> filter --> extraction fan --> exit

The two being connected to a Y connector

Which opetion is the best ?
 
L

Leaflet

Active member
redleb961 said:
Im sorry if the image i drew isnt too clear , but the inlet and outlet are at opposite sides indeed for crossflow. Inlet coming from bottom left and extraction on top right.
Click to expand...

I just want to be sure you're certain about that. Remember - your exhaust begins at the carbon filter. In your drawing that is on the left side of your tent, the same side as your inlet.

Here is a rough drawing of my setup:
 

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R

redleb961

Member
Ohhhh yea i see what you mean. I considered the exit hole as the main point of extraction which is wrong. You're right , ill make sure to place the filter on the opposite side ! Good call
 
G.O. Joe

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
My setup has the fan resting on top of the filter, pushing through the fixture. These fans are designed to push not pull air. Depending on the filter, a 4" fan sounds like not much power. 600W for 8 sq. ft. sounds like too much power, as does 1000W for 16. Why not use a 6" fan? Without a filter, 4" might be sufficient - but I've never used one that small.
 
R

redleb961

Member
Im using an 8inch fan not a 4inch , the 4inch is only for intake , also might consider removing it and using passive intake. Im sure the 8inch fan would do the work , rated at 494cfm.
 
G.O. Joe

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
I see. You might need that much power and noise for the heat load on the small tent, even if the ballast is outside. A smaller fan could handle the same light in a larger tent.
 
G.O. Joe

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
I never heard of this special ducting. A soundproofed enclosure for the fan to go along with that would be slick.
 
L

Leaflet

Active member
You should be able to find insulated duct at your local hardware store. It's commonly used in newer houses. That said, I did real world decibel tests on a few modifications a few years ago, and from biggest noise reduction to least, here are 3 common modifications:
Suspending your fan (bungie cords are most common, zip ties second)
Insulated ducting
Enclosing your fan (like in a big cardboard box)

Bonus tip: Since the 8 inch fan is likely overkill for that size tent, if you find that you don't need that much CFM, put it on a speed controller and slow it down. This makes a big difference in noise as well.
 
Mattbho

Mattbho

Active member
What country is 4x8 roughly double a 2x4 ?


Take 2 2x4 tents and connect them lengthwise you get 2x8 or 4x4 side by side it would take 4 2x4 tents to equal 1 4x8

I hope you guys arent contractors
 
R

redleb961

Member
Leaflet said:
You should be able to find insulated duct at your local hardware store. It's commonly used in newer houses. That said, I did real world decibel tests on a few modifications a few years ago, and from biggest noise reduction to least, here are 3 common modifications:
Suspending your fan (bungie cords are most common, zip ties second)
Insulated ducting
Enclosing your fan (like in a big cardboard box)

Bonus tip: Since the 8 inch fan is likely overkill for that size tent, if you find that you don't need that much CFM, put it on a speed controller and slow it down. This makes a big difference in noise as well.
Click to expand...

Exactly what i was going for ! Bungie cords cancel vibrations , insulated ducting muffles the sound of the air and the cardboard thingy muffles the fan noise. Ive already made a carton box for the fan , ordered the insulated ducting , but still need to find some bungie cords !

Does this work as a regulator for the fan ?

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HLB1W7tb...n-Speed-Controller-Dimmer-brushless-motor.jpg
 
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