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Competition GROW CONTEST WINNER: Phillthy's Perpetual Padded Room
- Thread starter Phillthy
- Start date
bostondutchmast
Member
Everything always looks so good definitely my favorite journal ...it's probably been said many times before but what the hell are you feeding these plants
cosmicparticle
Member
Wishing the best to the coolest cat on this site. One love.
Last edited:
sending good vibes!
Hello friend! hope all is well!
You can't receive them either, and you would not be able to respond if you could receive them.
Kombat Weed
Member
Your work is amazing!!!
Hey 619 - no, going with just straight Premier Peat is not exactly the same as using pro-mix. Pro-mix Bx has a few other things in it already - it's not just straight peat moss. However, you COULD use Premier peat to make your own pro-mix.
Pro-mix is a blend of Peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, calcitic and dolomite limestone, wetting agent, and Glomus intraradices (beneficial bacteria)...
So that should be taken into consideration....
I saw your post in the other thread and think you should check this link - it can probably answer some of the questions you may have:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258168
dank.Frank
Pro-mix is a blend of Peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, calcitic and dolomite limestone, wetting agent, and Glomus intraradices (beneficial bacteria)...
So that should be taken into consideration....
I saw your post in the other thread and think you should check this link - it can probably answer some of the questions you may have:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258168
dank.Frank
Just passin thru.
Hope n pray for the best for ya.
Hope n pray for the best for ya.
Thanks dank frank really appreciate , one more question is there any other already made soil cheaper than the pro mix bx hydro store keeps trying to sell me on sunshine mix #4 and bio bizz light saying that it is same as pro mix bx is this true ? Should I just use one of those
They are "comparable" products - but I've never used them personally, so I can't really speak to how well they work exactly...
But really, if you get a bale of peat moss - they are typically 3 cu ft - you are looking at 19 gallons of peat.
Toss in 5 gallons of LARGE grade perlite - ie coarse / chunky - not the small dusty stuff from miracle grow. 2 gallons of vermiculite, 1 1/2 c dolomite, 1/2c calcitic lime, and 1/4c of of beneficials and wet it all down with some yucca extract - and you pretty much have a bale of pro-mix on hand then...
The problem is, buying all those things isn't going to be cheaper in the SHORT term - long term, sure, because you'll have excess on hand and be able to repeat the process as needed, but that doesn't exactly make it efficient if you don't have access to a lot of such amendments locally.
If they have it at your local shop - look into Sunshine Ultra Coir and blend that with your peat moss at a 1:1 ratio - and then just add the additional chunky perlite to get proper drainage.
But you should check out this thread in response to Sunshine #4:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=166378
Again, referring you back to my sticky post, linked in my last response - you should note their is a base mix formula there as well - that DOES utilize just plain peat to make a great, unfertilized base planting medium. Also make note of the "Organics for Beginners" link that is in that post - there are several suggested mixes there in that link as well.
Phillthy's mix was a modification of the BlazeOneUp mix, originally, and I'm pretty sure that it's TonyGreen that has another modified version of that mix in his signature...
Just remember to always check the ingredients of what you buy - and see if the peat / pro mix / sunshine mix - whatever - has been properly amended for balanced pH control.
There is no sense in doing organics if you have to worry about pH still - if that's the case, you're doing it wrong. With plain peat - you'll need about 2tbsp per gallon or 1c per cu foot of dolomite limestone to put the pH in check. However, again, if you look back to that link, I recommend a blend of liming materials to really get a better balance on pH control and proper mineral provision.
Feel free to keep asking questions if you have any - I'll do my best to answer them.
dank.Frank
But really, if you get a bale of peat moss - they are typically 3 cu ft - you are looking at 19 gallons of peat.
Toss in 5 gallons of LARGE grade perlite - ie coarse / chunky - not the small dusty stuff from miracle grow. 2 gallons of vermiculite, 1 1/2 c dolomite, 1/2c calcitic lime, and 1/4c of of beneficials and wet it all down with some yucca extract - and you pretty much have a bale of pro-mix on hand then...
The problem is, buying all those things isn't going to be cheaper in the SHORT term - long term, sure, because you'll have excess on hand and be able to repeat the process as needed, but that doesn't exactly make it efficient if you don't have access to a lot of such amendments locally.
If they have it at your local shop - look into Sunshine Ultra Coir and blend that with your peat moss at a 1:1 ratio - and then just add the additional chunky perlite to get proper drainage.
But you should check out this thread in response to Sunshine #4:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=166378
Again, referring you back to my sticky post, linked in my last response - you should note their is a base mix formula there as well - that DOES utilize just plain peat to make a great, unfertilized base planting medium. Also make note of the "Organics for Beginners" link that is in that post - there are several suggested mixes there in that link as well.
Phillthy's mix was a modification of the BlazeOneUp mix, originally, and I'm pretty sure that it's TonyGreen that has another modified version of that mix in his signature...
Just remember to always check the ingredients of what you buy - and see if the peat / pro mix / sunshine mix - whatever - has been properly amended for balanced pH control.
There is no sense in doing organics if you have to worry about pH still - if that's the case, you're doing it wrong. With plain peat - you'll need about 2tbsp per gallon or 1c per cu foot of dolomite limestone to put the pH in check. However, again, if you look back to that link, I recommend a blend of liming materials to really get a better balance on pH control and proper mineral provision.
Feel free to keep asking questions if you have any - I'll do my best to answer them.
dank.Frank
Philthy........a missed man.
good vibes sent out for him.
good vibes sent out for him.
