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Ghoul
Well-known member
Hi Noreason,
if you don't mind, i’d like to know more details about this
Seems to me related to evaporative cooler, but i can’t figure how do you use it.
Thanks
if you don't mind, i’d like to know more details about this
Seems to me related to evaporative cooler, but i can’t figure how do you use it.
Thanks
Water always stays a little cooler than air for physical reasons, this is the point we want to take advantage of.
Take in consideration a DWC setup. Roots are soaked 24/7 and nutritive solution is closed in a loop. You have pretty no evaporation.
Now take in consideration a plant in hydroton, where the nutritive solution is moved for 15 minutes, then stop for other 15 minutes and again....for a total of 48 daily irrigations. It can be a simply recirculating system or even better an E&F system.
What is the difference?
The difference is water can be used as a cooling agent where in DWC or closed system it can't. It can be used as a cooling agent for its property of transimitting heat like 27 times faster than air.
The difference is in the evaporation. When the nutritive solution stay in contact with air, it can evaporates giving away some of its heat. When it does, heat is partially removed from the solution released to air, and eliminated by the extracting system.
So the things here are: roots haven't to stay in contact with solution forever. They need a dry period when the water can act as a cooling agent evaporating, otherwise it will act the opposite, giving heat to roots.
Also, the solution need to stay in contact with air. Substrate has to be like hydrotons, with many and big interstitial spaces.
A tray full of hydrotons, like in an E&F system has a lot of evaporation for its big surface.
Obviously, pots or trays should not be covered because you want a good airflow in the medium.
So, it's pretty all here. My feedbacks on this are good. I did various runs this summer without using any chiller, nutritive solution often reached 28°C but the plants are not died, no bacteria attacks, smell and thrics were good, just the buds were a little airy and the flowering took 10 days more but with a bigger yield.
When I was groing DWC style, nutritive solution at 24° meant worst plants than these plants grown with higher temps, so I bet using a chiller this system will rock for sure, consuming less energy to run a chiller compared to DWC for the fact you need a lot less water for each plant.
However, any kind of system wich is sets up taking in mind evaporation, would be effective, especially if relative humidity in the air is low, increasing evaporation.
Hope to help someone
fabietto83s
Active member
Complimenti a questo grower son forse superflui,più che un cultivo, sembra una galleria D'ARTE. .. meriteresti una donazione da ogni utente che grazie a questo ed altri 3d ha imparato tecniche e risolto problemi..... davvero un 3d pieno di foto,sistemi di colitvazione, consigli di coltiv ecc.....davvero grazie Noreason x l impegno che ci metti e x le approfondite nozioni che lasci a questo forum....non é una leccata ma un sincero complimento da chi é alle prime armi....ciao e appena puoi scrivi un libro
Hi people, as ever thanks for your kind words!
Here some pictures of a ChocoTonic summer run, they're taken in the hottest month of the year just 10 days after the switch to 12/12.
Due to the hot temp, I get a little delay on forming buds, promoting on the other side branches stretching, so I endend up with a lot of green, many and many little branches I had to cut off with a lot of work (also because the strain have this tendency)
I should have switched to 12\12 some days before...it would have been enough to contain the plant's growth. When growing in a good hydro setup, a couple of days in the vegging phase can do a real difference in the final dimension of the canopy!
Here some pictures of a ChocoTonic summer run, they're taken in the hottest month of the year just 10 days after the switch to 12/12.
Due to the hot temp, I get a little delay on forming buds, promoting on the other side branches stretching, so I endend up with a lot of green, many and many little branches I had to cut off with a lot of work (also because the strain have this tendency)
I should have switched to 12\12 some days before...it would have been enough to contain the plant's growth. When growing in a good hydro setup, a couple of days in the vegging phase can do a real difference in the final dimension of the canopy!
Thanks mate
Some more ChocoTonic shots, they're almost at the end of flowering, feeded just with CANNA hydro A+B and pH- to low pH.
This cola went over the reflector! Till the last phase the plant keep stretching and growing, it's a nice yelder.
Random shots playing with colors
hello, i like mood in the last one pic, for me epic..
I thought it was a bad picture, so playing in post-production it endend this way and I liked it too
Thank you m8!
Today some shots of a different strain, it's a Green Poison cut (Sweet seeds) a friend gave to me. I like it because it's stinky. Its aroma its somewhat between mango and solvents, big thricomes and pretty leafy. It's not a real yelder, but it's fast anf its flowers are pretty dense.
Today some shots of a different strain, it's a Green Poison cut (Sweet seeds) a friend gave to me. I like it because it's stinky. Its aroma its somewhat between mango and solvents, big thricomes and pretty leafy. It's not a real yelder, but it's fast anf its flowers are pretty dense.
big harvest from big grower.. alls my compliments
coco or hydro?
coco or hydro?
Hi people all over the world, someone of you asked me how I trim leaves, so here are some picture to explain.
First I start with colas like these:
Once cut the whole branch, I just take off big fan leaves and every single leaf with no resin on it (or very little).
At the same time the flowers are cut individually, removing the central stem, leading to this:
Now it's time to really trim flowers, collecting leaves with much resin on them, excellent for extractions.
So basically the end result is like this:
As you can see in the pictures some little leaves remain, but can be cut spending some more time, however the important tingh IMHO is to cut at the list the tip of the leaves, or these will have a negative impact on the look of the flowers.
The same things happens with leaves just under the flower, at the base of it. Leaving them where they are will result in a leafy look flower. Removing them give to flowers a better look...losing weight and gaining quality (less vegetal tissues and more resin on the total).
Keep it dank guys!
First I start with colas like these:
Once cut the whole branch, I just take off big fan leaves and every single leaf with no resin on it (or very little).
At the same time the flowers are cut individually, removing the central stem, leading to this:
Now it's time to really trim flowers, collecting leaves with much resin on them, excellent for extractions.
So basically the end result is like this:
As you can see in the pictures some little leaves remain, but can be cut spending some more time, however the important tingh IMHO is to cut at the list the tip of the leaves, or these will have a negative impact on the look of the flowers.
The same things happens with leaves just under the flower, at the base of it. Leaving them where they are will result in a leafy look flower. Removing them give to flowers a better look...losing weight and gaining quality (less vegetal tissues and more resin on the total).
Keep it dank guys!
Four months have passed from the last post and I made some changes in my hydro recirculating setup especially in the irrigation system, get a bigger extractor fan too and added a NFT tape on the trays.
These pics are from the old version:
As you can see many roots took their way following the water flow, so I want to get advantage of this, cooling plant's roots during summer, so I need a root mattress on those tray. I choose to use this grey cloth, basically composed of synthetic fibers, to give roots a medium to develop on.
Few days after I notice the nutritive solution turned its color from clear to purple/black due to those synthetic clothes, so they went directly in the trash.
Roots growing outside pots are quite a lot, I guess they could be even more of the inner ones growing 'em correctly. Even without anything roots can grow for meters following water flow.
These pics are from the old version:
As you can see many roots took their way following the water flow, so I want to get advantage of this, cooling plant's roots during summer, so I need a root mattress on those tray. I choose to use this grey cloth, basically composed of synthetic fibers, to give roots a medium to develop on.
Few days after I notice the nutritive solution turned its color from clear to purple/black due to those synthetic clothes, so they went directly in the trash.
Roots growing outside pots are quite a lot, I guess they could be even more of the inner ones growing 'em correctly. Even without anything roots can grow for meters following water flow.
Some dank shots tonight!
Here some Channel + from Medical Seeds…a lot of resin but poor aroma.
And some Naranchup nuggets. This pheno from Philosopher Seeds has something good in it…nice flower's shape, nice leaf/calix ratio and a good aroma remembering some citrus mixed with some sort of solvent.
Here some Channel + from Medical Seeds…a lot of resin but poor aroma.
And some Naranchup nuggets. This pheno from Philosopher Seeds has something good in it…nice flower's shape, nice leaf/calix ratio and a good aroma remembering some citrus mixed with some sort of solvent.
