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Greenleaf Megacrop

Porky82

Well-known member
I've been running megacrop for about a year now as I was sick of liquid nutes.
It's the best all in 1 I've seen and know a few mates using it. The one I have is a bit different to some other in this thread.
I find it perfect up till about week 5 to 7 depending on strain when it seems to have a bit to much N and burns a bit. I just lower the amount of megacrop and make it up with some PK boost and cal mag some strains i just droped the EC and thats all they needed. All in all I'd say it's an economical, easy and excellent nutrient.
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Porky82

Well-known member
It’s a very good feed. The only thing is View attachment 19076993 the insolubility of this particular formula. You have to mix it up in extremely hot water to get the beads to dissolve….
I just stir mine with a spaghetti thing and all balls are dissolved in about 20 seconds in cold water. I mix in an open top watering can so easily done but those using a res would have to mix large amounts before tipping it in the res. I have just left watering cans with it sitting unmixed for a few hours and it's almost dissolved but still needs a quick stir.

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@Greenleafnutes, hit them with the Part 1 received couple of days ago. 1 tsp./gallon.

What is the chemical, nutrient, in the white BB sized prills?

Regards,
Tio
Yes, the white chunks/prills are the Calcium Nitrate, its the standard 15.5-0-0 (19% Calcium) Yara type Calcium Nitrate. 1tsp/Gal is approximately 4.5 grams per gallon and is a very good starting dosage, should be sufficient for most systems!
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Yes, the white chunks/prills are the Calcium Nitrate, its the standard 15.5-0-0 (19% Calcium) Yara type Calcium Nitrate. 1tsp/Gal is approximately 4.5 grams per gallon and is a very good starting dosage, should be sufficient for most systems!

Thanks for the info. I stirred the blend to integrate this as much as possible albeit they were pretty well distributed. Just threw me for a loop.

I'm doing soil. Am finishing up (11 weeks flowering) a few little plants, my OLD cross of Positronics Haze X Jack Herer and Ace Golden Tiger X Panama topped to a double cola, 23" plant tall. The GT is pushing new pistils after being soaked yesterday in the Megacrop/rainwater. Side and top LED lighting. Just installed an overhead HLG 260R spec, refurb. Love this thing. Must have pulled 50 yellow leaves yesterday, another first. I usually retain most of my fan leaves green until harvest. My feeling is I've got some residual broad leaf herbicide in one of the supplements I used, either the cottonseed meal or bagged compost. Defoliants are applied to cotton fields and compost can have residual broad leaf herbicides if the purveyor added livestock manure (for the N source) from livestock who have been grazing on fields sprayed with herbicides like picloram, dicamba, 2-4D....... Commercial products are supposed to be "clean", but hoo nose.

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Uncle Ben
 
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Hiddenjems

Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I stirred the blend to integrate this as much as possible albeit they were pretty well distributed. Just threw me for a loop.

I'm doing soil. Am finishing up (11 weeks flowering) a few little plants, my OLD cross of Positronics Haze X Jack Herer and Ace Golden Tiger X Panama topped to a double cola, 23" plant tall. The GT is pushing new pistils after being soaked yesterday in the Megacrop/rainwater. Side and top LED lighting. Just installed an overhead HLG 260R spec, refurb. Love this thing. Must have pulled 50 yellow leaves yesterday, another first. I usually retain most of my fan leaves green until harvest. My feeling is I've got some residual broad leaf herbicide in one of the supplements I used, either the cottonseed meal or bagged compost. Defoliants are use on cotton and compost can have residual broad leaf herbicides if the purveyor added livestock manure from livestock who have been grazing on fields sprayed with herbicides like picloram, dicamba, 2-4D.......

View attachment 19109898

Uncle Ben
Inconsistent fading, or even continuing leaf drop after a feed issue has been fixed always perplexed me. My conclusion is that once a leaf receives a signal to start dumping nutrients back into the stem it doesn’t go back to regular behavior.

I’ve grown some of the same clones for years in flood tables, soil, dwc, promix, aeroponics, etc. it’s amazing how much environmental changes affect the expression of the plants genes.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Inconsistent fading, or even continuing leaf drop after a feed issue has been fixed always perplexed me. My conclusion is that once a leaf receives a signal to start dumping nutrients back into the stem it doesn’t go back to regular behavior.

I’ve grown some of the same clones for years in flood tables, soil, dwc, promix, aeroponics, etc. it’s amazing how much environmental changes affect the expression of the plants genes.

Interesting and good points. These plants have been getting full sun thru a large south facing greenhouse vent for about 7 or so hours a day for most of their life. When visible light fell to less than 11.5 hours is when I moved them back under LED's.

Even my many attempts to green them up didn't help. For instance adding about 1 tsp. of epsom salts and 1 tsp. of Foliage Pro 9-3-6. to 1 gal. rainwater didn't help. I even played with UAN, like a tsp/gal. Got me stumped.

Compare that with some old, dark green, heavy to the bottom blooming Trainwreck X Sweettooth crosses decades ago. Been gardening all kinds of materials for 50 years and I'm still learning.

Notice the 3rd pic and the big collection of buds at the bottom. This confirmation just flies in the face of the lame leaf pluckin' nerds who still believe bud sites need direct light to pop.

I was probably using Jack's and organics that year of 2004.

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I have a pesticide applicators license and have used broad leaf (and monocot like glyphosate) herbicides for many years, I know what I'm doing. The first reaction of my target is yellowing leaves, then necrosis. Whatever....I dumped a bunch of handfuls of compost on a small test tomato plant the other day as tomatoes and beans are very sensitive to herbicides....talking 50ppm.

Interesting read - https://8419634.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8419634/Downloads/Ebook_HarshTruthAboutLED.pdf

Uncle Ben
 

LJ farming

Active member
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Interesting and good points. These plants have been getting full sun thru a large south facing greenhouse vent for about 7 or so hours a day for most of their life. When visible light fell to less than 11.5 hours is when I moved them back under LED's.

Even my many attempts to green them up didn't help. For instance adding about 1 tsp. of epsom salts and 1 tsp. of Foliage Pro 9-3-6. to 1 gal. rainwater didn't help. I even played with UAN, like a tsp/gal. Got me stumped.

Compare that with some old, dark green, heavy to the bottom blooming Trainwreck X Sweettooth crosses decades ago. Been gardening all kinds of materials for 50 years and I'm still learning.

Notice the 3rd pic and the big collection of buds at the bottom. This confirmation just flies in the face of the lame leaf pluckin' nerds who still believe bud sites need direct light to pop.

I was probably using Jack's and organics that year of 2004.

View attachment 19109923 View attachment 19109924 View attachment 19109925

I have a pesticide applicators license and have used broad leaf (and monocot like glyphosate) herbicides for many years, I know what I'm doing. The first reaction of my target is yellowing leaves, then necrosis. Whatever....I dumped a bunch of handfuls of compost on a small test tomato plant the other day as tomatoes and beans are very sensitive to herbicides....talking 50ppm.

Interesting read - https://8419634.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/8419634/Downloads/Ebook_HarshTruthAboutLED.pdf

Uncle Ben
This will definitely be controversial but perhaps if there were less (Solar Panels) as well as N a positive change might happen? But what do I know🤦‍♂️🔫

Peace


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