Great Inline Fans

[Guest]

So lets say this

DIY cool tube running parallel with the closet---> 6inch insulated ducting running to the side of the closet and down to floor --->[now under the house] ---> more 6 inch insulated ducting ---> 6 inch S&P ---> ducting ---> carbon filter (whatever filter matches the fan)


Sound kosher? Would that setup (with the 6 inch) cool a 600 in a closet that size?

 

[Bulénath]

Thank you FMJ for this thread

Although some state that the Panasonic whisperline fans have given them problems after a few grows, remember that the longevity of the fan depends on the manner in which it is used. Not everyone hooks up thier fans according to least amount of static pressure. I have three Panasonics whisper fans, two are 80cfm with carbon trays and the other a 70cfm model that has been removed from the metal casing and hooked up directly with a rectangular vent. They have all been running for over two years straight, if you count the individual days of use, and have no motor wear, sound increase, cfm loss or any signs of wear and tear. regardless, I feel if someone was to put too much negative pressure on a panasonic whisper fan, then it would cause permanent motor wear and consequntial sound increase. A slight case of this happened after not changing the carbon, which was unprotected and left bare throughout three grows. As soon as the fan started making a wierd noise, I changed the carbon. The cfm then increased, and the bad noise went away.

However, I am definately going to buy a Solar and Palau inline fan.
For my 2400 watt grow, I am planing on using 4 x 440 cfm Panasonic whisper fans with carbon can filters for the main grow-room exhaust.
But for the actual light bulbs and air-cooled reflectors, I need something a little smaller and more compact. Not to mention it needs to be very stealth and quiet. So this fan seems like the perfect solution. Surely a single TD-150 model fan can handle pulling on two x 600 HPS bulbs in a line, right?

Anyone else use these specifically to pull on the lights??

Also, FMJ, what Panasonic whisperline fan that you ended up returning, are you comparing the S&P TD-200 to??
I know the 440cfm Panasonic whisperline is 2.1 sones tops. If the TD-200 model is quieter than 2.1 sones, then I will buy that instead of the 4 x 440cfm Panasonic whisperline fans, making 6 S&P fans purchases total.

 

[Dr Watt]

I'd use one TD-150 for all four lights but blazeoneup has 747cfm for 4x1000's on 14' of 8'' duct and the glass doesn't get too hot to touch he reckons - for 2400w the equivalent is 448cfm. The TD-150 does 293cfm.

 

[Guest]

I made a model of what I was thinking in sketchup click on it for a bigger version

 

[darippa]

jackpackage,
you wouldnt need the carbon filter there. if your suction was from within the cab, the air would be filtered before going under the house.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Looks like you're scrubbing clean air while leaving the cab unventilated. Remove the duct that goes up from the cooltube and add some intakes at the bottom of the cab.

 

[Guest]

I got ya freezerboy.

The way I have it, the hose going to the mom chamber above will draw all the cabinet air up through the holes(which will be light proof elbows) in the dividing shelf that was my idea since all the hot air is going to rise anyways. Does that make sense. I drew some holes to show that air will rise to the upper exhaust intake.

So your way would be, I eliminate the portion from the cool tube to the upper section then use ABS elbows so air gets drawn down from the upper area as well? I think that might leave the upper chamber a bit hot.

I could just Y it?


Normally there would be a hose going out the top and the warm air heads that way so I figured I could put the hose up there just draw it down.....

 

[FreezerBoy]

Sorry. Missing the top of the cab makes it hard to read the drawing. Where's cab intake?

 

[Guest]

Well it's a closet not a cab so I'm putting 5/8 plywood across the front right behind the bifold doors. The intakes are going to be in the lower portion of that plywood below the door to the flower chamber. Darkroom vents in the front of the flower chamber. So it will pull air from the bottom/front of the closet and draw it to the top and the blower will suck it down the hose to under the house and scrub it. It will draw air from the room into the closet and under the house.

 

[Greel]

what size fan/cfm is ideal for the exhaust of a 1000w air-cooled hood (6 inch duct) in a 4 x 4 space do you reckon? I will most likely have another (smaller) fan connected to filter/scrubber exchanging the air in the room. Noise is an issue so i dont want to use a model that pull more than is really needed.

 

[UBER21]

OK guys here it goes whacha think on this set up......Filter>>>>>Cooltube>>>>>>S&P fan>>>>out the exhaust...... Can 9000 matched with an S&P 4in rated 100/135 cfm.......tent is 33x33x63....400w light.......Sounds good guys????

 

[Dr Watt]

Uber21 I reckon you need Can33 & S&P 6''

 

[sativa_cyborg13]

that is definitely worth my looking into. thanks dude. there is a lot of good info from all of you in this thread. awesome.

 

[UBER21]

Uber21 I reckon you need Can33 & S&P 6''

PLz explain why??

 

[catman]

PLz explain why??

Because of the size of the space you need to scrub.

 

[UBER21]

Hmmm? A buddy of mine did the calculations using the cubic feet method and it showed that a 4in fan rated at 125cfm paired with a 9000 can filter would be more than enough for scrubbing the air in the tent?....Also the specs on the can 9000 are way lower than it should be on the sites....the real cfm rating stated by the can fan rep is max 175cfm and absolute min is 55cfm.....He also said that the 4in high output can fan is also very good when paired with a 33 can filter too.....

 

[Bulénath]

fullmetaljacket,
You didn't say what model Panasonic you where comparing the S&P too! Which mdel Panasonic was louder than the S&P TD200 and therefore returned??

My carbon scrubber/main exhaust options for 2400 watts are either:

1) Four Panasonic 440cfm, 2.1 sone, 125 watts,

-OR-​

2) Or Four Soler & Palau TD200.


My question is, which one is quieter?


I already decided to buy 2 x Soler & Palau TD150's, each for a row of two Cool Sun reflectors with a 600hps each. So each TD150 pulls directly on 2 x 600HPS, with its' intake drawing air from the outside of the cabinet- in a perfect, unrestricted straight line:

O====HPS=====HPS=====Fan=O

Aloha

 

[Dr Watt]

Yeh, uber21, it's hard to read inches like that - is near 3'x3' x 5'. Good size for a 400, ideally it's best to have oblong like 2.5'x3.5' but anyways a 400w on a metre is optimum intensity.

Anyway, read somewhere that rule of thumb is 400cfm (666cmh) per 1000w - unless you've got floor to ceiling and exit out window imo - so 400w needs 160cfm - probably fan rated as apposed to what they actually run which can be half no static pressure max I read this thread ?

Passive intake is a nice idea but 4'' miniaxial / large computer fan on the intake works - you put it on duct and direct air inside cab - then exit fan just to take heat away rather than to generate airflow.

Also, makes a massive difference if you exit the air outside, if it stays inside in any way then you face an added challenge. This is where pulling through CarbonFilter then pumping outside is optimum configuration but awkward in a cab. The 9000 you've chosen will be a lot easier to handle than the 33 -3kg carbon vs 7.5 and half weight but nice and slim to hang in a cab http://canfilters.com/canfilters_9000.html but only handles max 55cfm - sorry won't be enough unless you can get real cool active winter inlet. Anyway, do your research like the 150watt thread, the 400watt thread, even retail sites have advised setups. Take it easy

 

[UBER21]

Yeh, uber21, it's hard to read inches like that - is near 3'x3' x 5'. Good size for a 400, ideally it's best to have oblong like 2.5'x3.5' but anyways a 400w on a metre is optimum intensity.

Anyway, read somewhere that rule of thumb is 400cfm (666cmh) per 1000w - unless you've got floor to ceiling and exit out window imo - so 400w needs 160cfm - probably fan rated as apposed to what they actually run which can be half no static pressure max I read this thread ?

Passive intake is a nice idea but 4'' miniaxial / large computer fan on the intake works - you put it on duct and direct air inside cab - then exit fan just to take heat away rather than to generate airflow.

Also, makes a massive difference if you exit the air outside, if it stays inside in any way then you face an added challenge. This is where pulling through CarbonFilter then pumping outside is optimum configuration but awkward in a cab. The 9000 you've chosen will be a lot easier to handle than the 33 -3kg carbon vs 7.5 and half weight but nice and slim to hang in a cab http://canfilters.com/canfilters_9000.html but only handles max 55cfm - sorry won't be enough unless you can get real cool active winter inlet. Anyway, do your research like the 150watt thread, the 400watt thread, even retail sites have advised setups. Take it easy

John thats were the mistake was.....the reps at can fan made a boo-boo and rated the 2600 and the 9000 wrong.....Min airflow for the 9000 is 55 cfm and the max is almost 170 cfm........have u seen the size of the 9000...lol...theres no way that filter's max rating is 55cfm.....its slim but theres almost 15 lbs of carbon in that thing.....but yeah the ratings are off.....which need to be fixed since most hydro shops that have these filters only put the min air flo rated....Also I decided to go with the 4in can fan h/0 rated for 178cfm with the bends and turns in my tent the 9000 should handle it just well and have suffcient time to scrub the air upon exiting the tent....

 

[kaljukajakas]

I had a TD-100 ~100 cfm 4" S&P set up like this: 400W HPS -> 3ft flexible tubing -> fan -> carbon filter -> exhaust for 4 years without issue (I live in a cold climate). Had to clean the fan blades a couple of times (noise) and upgraded to a centrifugal fan of similar wattage after I added mufflers and moved my exhaust to about 20' from the fan.