Grandoggy Purps / XMas Special Grow
- Thread starter woolybear
- Start date
Looking great, love that we got people running our strains under LED's.
Peace
Peace
DAY 10
DAY 10
DAY 10 UPDATE 2
-----------------------------------------------------------
Flowers exploded out of the grandoggys today! My only concern is seeing some scraggly growth under the scrog screen that probably needs to be trimmed.
The xmas are blooming as well:
doggy canopy:
xmas canopy:
group shot:
DAY 10
DAY 10 UPDATE 2
-----------------------------------------------------------
Flowers exploded out of the grandoggys today! My only concern is seeing some scraggly growth under the scrog screen that probably needs to be trimmed.
The xmas are blooming as well:
doggy canopy:
xmas canopy:
group shot:
Lucky day 13 update
Lucky day 13 update
Plants are looking good. I've dialed back the nute regimen, going to feed mostly water for at least a few days. This is because i noticed a tiny bit of end leaf coloration, so i'm going to ease off but not completely cut the nutes, as they fix the ph.
The xmas's have almost stretched to the light (edit: luckily theres another 2' of room to grow). The doggys have grown about 2" since last update.
This space will have some ultra current info from his posts THAT i found useful.
On flushing:
From my extensive experience in growing cannabis for 19 years, I can finally come to the conclusion that when you over nute your plants in hydro, you are going to lose a considerable amount of flavors even with a good flush. Taking the nutes down the way that I did has really brought out more flavor in my product. In my opinion, growing style will choose the best time to start your flush.
For example, you would flush a medium that wicks (Rockwool) at a different time than plants that sit in hydroton. The medium that wicks is going to take you longer to flush as opposed to the method that Im using in this log with the hydroton sitting in water.
IMO you dont really want to flush RDWC with hydroton and no wicking medium for 10+ days. You can see from my data how much these plants eat and you can see them very easily use up their stored nutrients in the leaves from just a few days with plain water by all the fan leaves turning yellow.
I have observed for many years that when you starve your plants by flushig them too early, they can have a tough time finishing and getting amber trichs (not hairs). IMO when you flush hydro too early, it seems to just kill the plant very slowly and she still wants to eat. I believe that if you complety take out all of the nutes too early then a lot of plants cant finish properly and you bring down the yield considerably.
Some strains can have more flavor even with too much nutes so this all depends on strain as well. This subject is coming up from looking at my past data logs and comparing the data to each other....
on feeding:
Feed, water twice, feed, water twice and keep repeating. You have RO then use it if you dont then use tap. If your tap has a lot of chlorine then let it sit for 24 hours. pH everything that you put in. Feeding less is better than feeding more. I nute my soil plants 4-5 times a crop with 4 foot bushes. Dont use tons of suppliments and snake oils just use your basic nutes and your bloom booster unless you dont run salts then go to the organic soil section
on slowing down stretch:
Im in another room and I can see that the plants are growing too tall. I know I still have more 10 days more of stretch and i need to slow them down. In this room Im testing Strawberry Coughs and DSDs compared to the RezDD in the same type of system. Of course ill do a little bending but i will need more help.
The way that i deal with this type of situation is to change the light cylce temporarily. For example, if i want to slow down the stretch a little, i take an hour of light out of the equation and add an hour of dark by using a 13 hour off and 11 hours on. If i need to really slow them down then i go 14 hours off and 10 hours on. Once im satisfied that the stretch has stopped, then I go back to 12/12. You could flower them out at 14 off or 13 off and they will finish faster but you will lose yield compared to 12/12. I mainly run 12/12 unless its a breeding project. With breeding i always add at least 1 more hour of light to the equation.
on managing pH:
When my pH is too high or low, i try my best to not use pH ups and downs... it is easier to pH using your products that are already in you system. Because my PPMs are always low, i can add in my micro and bloom to go down and if i need to go further, i can use my Kool Bloom Powder
on the current east coast scene and cali impact:
I cant believe that Im smoking roachs right now. I had so many p's not long ago and i had over 10 different types of high quality indoor 2 weeks ago. I had a soil batch of the RezDD that I cured for a few months and i kept all of the tops for myself and had them in the safe curing but I ran out of meds for people sooner than I thought I would.
I was kind of scared that the cali scene would really mess things up for me this hear but it hasnt. If I was growing the strain that I was 3 years ago I would definetely be affected right now so luckily I went strain hunting. Im always updatig my game to change with the times. Now that there is more competition, it is very important to have a high quality product that doesnt only look good, but also is potent and has a unique smell that your specific market is looking for.
The East Coast isnt getting sick of diesel and chems and it will most likely be a staple here for the next 5-10 years and if its good quality then it should be able to hold a good price. Because my game has been stepped up now, im able to cut my prices on weight. For my patients i have different price brackets to make it a lot nicer to get more. A few years back, 6 a p moved all day but now we are around 48 a p for steady movement. You could get more but it is a lot slower and you need people that are harder to find and then they eventually meet some other person who is desparate and needs to move his product to pay bills.
Cali bud out here is retailig between 34 and 38 a p for the most part and most of it is a tax for the travel. In cali these trees are going for around 1200-1700 but by the time it hits here it jumps to the mid 3's. Most areas, the patients dont always care about the best quality and care more about the price cause they want to sell to other patients too and make the most profit. This is why it is very good knowing where to find the right people.
Luckily I dont have to do that anymore with the new plan. When you yield 15-20 pounds per crop, you have 10 weeks till the next crop is ready so you can divide that crop by 10 weeks and its only 1.5 - 2 pounds a week to move so its easy to yield higher prices because thats not enough supply for anyone with the demand. When you have 100+ p's to move its a different story.
Now im competing with good cali for around 38, and i have a lot more to move per week which gets harder. Once you make it interesting to the consumer then it gets easier. Just growing 100 ps a crop in this market, you could take the prices down to 4k and patients will be fighting to get some. Thats still 400k gross a crop and there would be at least 4 crops a year but there are a lot more expenses. In this situation everyone is happy.
The problem with this for the smaller growers in the area is that they will be affected by cali and the bigger commercial growers in the area and i know that they are not prepared. They are really going to get hit hard and most 4 light and under grows are going to fail. Growing is expensive and lets look at some calculations for my area.
Say the average grower has 4,000 watts. Most are not the greatest and dont hit the yields that they need to reflect the new price market. A ton of growers average a pound a light. Those guys are finished and heres why. Their prices will come down and most growers dont have a lot of savings. So lets give these growers a price of 45 a p whcih is what they will be getting shortly. For now they may get up to 52. So they will yield 4 p's and make 18k and have 5 harvests per year if they are good. Now we get to exoenses. Most of these growers have to pay rent or a mortgage so thats 4k gone from your crop. So now we are down to 14k then you have to pay your growing bills which is about $500/month so thats another $1250 gone and then you have to eat and live which is another 2k a month which is 5k for the crop gone and leaves you with $7750.
Now if your lucky and have no other bills or bad habbits then you can put away 7750 in savings but once you have a bad run and lose a crop bere and there your savings disappears and so does your grow. Ive been planning for these days when things would change and things are really going to change very soon. The smart ones who want to succeed will start preparing for these days and learn how to maximize their crops. Even if your getting 2ps a light, you still only get 15k profit after all the bills. The smart growers with 4 lights or less will save their money so they can eventually expand and profit off of the end of the gold rush.
Theres chinese growers in my area with 50 lights in regular houses and stealing electric. I see them on the news all the time. The good old days are over guys. It was great while it lasted but if you do not prepare, you will be kicking your self later.
I try to tell the other growers around me but they dont see it like me. This grower i know with 10 lights gets a quarter pound per light and has for many years. Never bas money and takes all that risk. Whats the point. Get a job if its that bad or learn how to take advise. Anyway ive been wanting to say this for a while now. Oh and imagine if you lived in cali, youd need a full time job if you only had 4 lights.
Lucky day 13 update
Plants are looking good. I've dialed back the nute regimen, going to feed mostly water for at least a few days. This is because i noticed a tiny bit of end leaf coloration, so i'm going to ease off but not completely cut the nutes, as they fix the ph.
The xmas's have almost stretched to the light (edit: luckily theres another 2' of room to grow). The doggys have grown about 2" since last update.
This space will have some ultra current info from his posts THAT i found useful.
On flushing:
From my extensive experience in growing cannabis for 19 years, I can finally come to the conclusion that when you over nute your plants in hydro, you are going to lose a considerable amount of flavors even with a good flush. Taking the nutes down the way that I did has really brought out more flavor in my product. In my opinion, growing style will choose the best time to start your flush.
For example, you would flush a medium that wicks (Rockwool) at a different time than plants that sit in hydroton. The medium that wicks is going to take you longer to flush as opposed to the method that Im using in this log with the hydroton sitting in water.
IMO you dont really want to flush RDWC with hydroton and no wicking medium for 10+ days. You can see from my data how much these plants eat and you can see them very easily use up their stored nutrients in the leaves from just a few days with plain water by all the fan leaves turning yellow.
I have observed for many years that when you starve your plants by flushig them too early, they can have a tough time finishing and getting amber trichs (not hairs). IMO when you flush hydro too early, it seems to just kill the plant very slowly and she still wants to eat. I believe that if you complety take out all of the nutes too early then a lot of plants cant finish properly and you bring down the yield considerably.
Some strains can have more flavor even with too much nutes so this all depends on strain as well. This subject is coming up from looking at my past data logs and comparing the data to each other....
on feeding:
Feed, water twice, feed, water twice and keep repeating. You have RO then use it if you dont then use tap. If your tap has a lot of chlorine then let it sit for 24 hours. pH everything that you put in. Feeding less is better than feeding more. I nute my soil plants 4-5 times a crop with 4 foot bushes. Dont use tons of suppliments and snake oils just use your basic nutes and your bloom booster unless you dont run salts then go to the organic soil section
on slowing down stretch:
Im in another room and I can see that the plants are growing too tall. I know I still have more 10 days more of stretch and i need to slow them down. In this room Im testing Strawberry Coughs and DSDs compared to the RezDD in the same type of system. Of course ill do a little bending but i will need more help.
The way that i deal with this type of situation is to change the light cylce temporarily. For example, if i want to slow down the stretch a little, i take an hour of light out of the equation and add an hour of dark by using a 13 hour off and 11 hours on. If i need to really slow them down then i go 14 hours off and 10 hours on. Once im satisfied that the stretch has stopped, then I go back to 12/12. You could flower them out at 14 off or 13 off and they will finish faster but you will lose yield compared to 12/12. I mainly run 12/12 unless its a breeding project. With breeding i always add at least 1 more hour of light to the equation.
on managing pH:
When my pH is too high or low, i try my best to not use pH ups and downs... it is easier to pH using your products that are already in you system. Because my PPMs are always low, i can add in my micro and bloom to go down and if i need to go further, i can use my Kool Bloom Powder
on the current east coast scene and cali impact:
I cant believe that Im smoking roachs right now. I had so many p's not long ago and i had over 10 different types of high quality indoor 2 weeks ago. I had a soil batch of the RezDD that I cured for a few months and i kept all of the tops for myself and had them in the safe curing but I ran out of meds for people sooner than I thought I would.
I was kind of scared that the cali scene would really mess things up for me this hear but it hasnt. If I was growing the strain that I was 3 years ago I would definetely be affected right now so luckily I went strain hunting. Im always updatig my game to change with the times. Now that there is more competition, it is very important to have a high quality product that doesnt only look good, but also is potent and has a unique smell that your specific market is looking for.
The East Coast isnt getting sick of diesel and chems and it will most likely be a staple here for the next 5-10 years and if its good quality then it should be able to hold a good price. Because my game has been stepped up now, im able to cut my prices on weight. For my patients i have different price brackets to make it a lot nicer to get more. A few years back, 6 a p moved all day but now we are around 48 a p for steady movement. You could get more but it is a lot slower and you need people that are harder to find and then they eventually meet some other person who is desparate and needs to move his product to pay bills.
Cali bud out here is retailig between 34 and 38 a p for the most part and most of it is a tax for the travel. In cali these trees are going for around 1200-1700 but by the time it hits here it jumps to the mid 3's. Most areas, the patients dont always care about the best quality and care more about the price cause they want to sell to other patients too and make the most profit. This is why it is very good knowing where to find the right people.
Luckily I dont have to do that anymore with the new plan. When you yield 15-20 pounds per crop, you have 10 weeks till the next crop is ready so you can divide that crop by 10 weeks and its only 1.5 - 2 pounds a week to move so its easy to yield higher prices because thats not enough supply for anyone with the demand. When you have 100+ p's to move its a different story.
Now im competing with good cali for around 38, and i have a lot more to move per week which gets harder. Once you make it interesting to the consumer then it gets easier. Just growing 100 ps a crop in this market, you could take the prices down to 4k and patients will be fighting to get some. Thats still 400k gross a crop and there would be at least 4 crops a year but there are a lot more expenses. In this situation everyone is happy.
The problem with this for the smaller growers in the area is that they will be affected by cali and the bigger commercial growers in the area and i know that they are not prepared. They are really going to get hit hard and most 4 light and under grows are going to fail. Growing is expensive and lets look at some calculations for my area.
Say the average grower has 4,000 watts. Most are not the greatest and dont hit the yields that they need to reflect the new price market. A ton of growers average a pound a light. Those guys are finished and heres why. Their prices will come down and most growers dont have a lot of savings. So lets give these growers a price of 45 a p whcih is what they will be getting shortly. For now they may get up to 52. So they will yield 4 p's and make 18k and have 5 harvests per year if they are good. Now we get to exoenses. Most of these growers have to pay rent or a mortgage so thats 4k gone from your crop. So now we are down to 14k then you have to pay your growing bills which is about $500/month so thats another $1250 gone and then you have to eat and live which is another 2k a month which is 5k for the crop gone and leaves you with $7750.
Now if your lucky and have no other bills or bad habbits then you can put away 7750 in savings but once you have a bad run and lose a crop bere and there your savings disappears and so does your grow. Ive been planning for these days when things would change and things are really going to change very soon. The smart ones who want to succeed will start preparing for these days and learn how to maximize their crops. Even if your getting 2ps a light, you still only get 15k profit after all the bills. The smart growers with 4 lights or less will save their money so they can eventually expand and profit off of the end of the gold rush.
Theres chinese growers in my area with 50 lights in regular houses and stealing electric. I see them on the news all the time. The good old days are over guys. It was great while it lasted but if you do not prepare, you will be kicking your self later.
I try to tell the other growers around me but they dont see it like me. This grower i know with 10 lights gets a quarter pound per light and has for many years. Never bas money and takes all that risk. Whats the point. Get a job if its that bad or learn how to take advise. Anyway ive been wanting to say this for a while now. Oh and imagine if you lived in cali, youd need a full time job if you only had 4 lights.
Last edited:
note to self:
note to self:
note to self:
Just checked out ft100's dkush thread. Here's a pic of his scrog:
Note the lollipopping under the scrog screen. I need to do more of that - there's still a lot of leafs and nuglets under there I can get rid of.
I had gotten rid of the budsites under the screen i could reach that were more than 2" or so from the bottom of the screen.
Seeing ft100 pics, looks like I can get rid of just about ALL the growth under the screen. The girls have been in flower for 2 weeks so they can probably handle it.
Thanks CSG, get those shirts on one of those make-your-own shirt sites or something!
edit: quote, the bobblehead:
After they're done stretching, you only leave the tops that are directly in the light zone. Everything behind/under the top buds gets trimmed up all the way back to the screens
So tomorrow I'm getting rid of all that shit underneath the screens!
more info from bobble:
I phase out calcium nitrate after week 4... There should be enough in Jack's classic and stored in the coco to carry you through the rest of flower... The plant is busy storing nutrients during stretch and early onset of bud formation. It's turning the fertilizer into carbohydrates that are stored in the roots and buds. The plants only need so many micronutrients, but they eat a lot of macronutrients... So that's why I tell you to only add back MKP later in flower, b/c the plant only needs those macros. That's also helps to flush the root zone, b/c the P and K will pull micros into the plant with them. I would also stop adding the drip clean when you stop using Jack's Classic. If you're removing the micros, then there's nothing to worry about building up.
note to self:
note to self:
Just checked out ft100's dkush thread. Here's a pic of his scrog:
Note the lollipopping under the scrog screen. I need to do more of that - there's still a lot of leafs and nuglets under there I can get rid of.
I had gotten rid of the budsites under the screen i could reach that were more than 2" or so from the bottom of the screen.
Seeing ft100 pics, looks like I can get rid of just about ALL the growth under the screen. The girls have been in flower for 2 weeks so they can probably handle it.
Thanks CSG, get those shirts on one of those make-your-own shirt sites or something!
edit: quote, the bobblehead:
After they're done stretching, you only leave the tops that are directly in the light zone. Everything behind/under the top buds gets trimmed up all the way back to the screens
So tomorrow I'm getting rid of all that shit underneath the screens!
more info from bobble:
I phase out calcium nitrate after week 4... There should be enough in Jack's classic and stored in the coco to carry you through the rest of flower... The plant is busy storing nutrients during stretch and early onset of bud formation. It's turning the fertilizer into carbohydrates that are stored in the roots and buds. The plants only need so many micronutrients, but they eat a lot of macronutrients... So that's why I tell you to only add back MKP later in flower, b/c the plant only needs those macros. That's also helps to flush the root zone, b/c the P and K will pull micros into the plant with them. I would also stop adding the drip clean when you stop using Jack's Classic. If you're removing the micros, then there's nothing to worry about building up.
Last edited:
day 18
day 18
Day 18 Update (week 2.57; exactly 6 weeks remaining for plants on left side, assuming 60-day finish)
the doggys are filling in nicely, basically filling in the gaps between the node completely, so its hard to get a stem rub on them
g#2, pictured below, has the roundest fullest buds of the group.
g#3 has a bit of burn on the tips even tho the others are fine. i take it she likes less nutes than the rest - going to take it easier on her, even though I'm currently barely feeding them all. she's in the back right, #2 left back, #1 front.
xmas stems have little odor yet when rubbed, although #1 had a hint of funkyness.
Though these ones have been in 1-gallon pots, next round i'm running the 2-gallons i think. if a good goal is 1 gram per watt:
180w + 300w + 2x t-5 lights unknown watt, say 25w each means
I'd need about 530 grams to get 1gpw. That's 19 ozs. Oh my. Not attainable this round i think
cleaned excess leaf under the screen, and defoliated the xmases a little bit. i'm wondering if i should bend the 2-3 tallest xmas branches. now pics:
group:
doggy #2 on right, xmas on left:
more xmases. do they need more leafs removed?:
regarding the xmas's stretch -both the xmas's pots are tilted at least 45 degrees each, so a significant amount of growth is like horizontalish mang. there's a picture above of one descrogged to show what i mean.
the xmases aren't nearly as filled in as the doggys.
day 18
Day 18 Update (week 2.57; exactly 6 weeks remaining for plants on left side, assuming 60-day finish)
the doggys are filling in nicely, basically filling in the gaps between the node completely, so its hard to get a stem rub on them
g#2, pictured below, has the roundest fullest buds of the group.
g#3 has a bit of burn on the tips even tho the others are fine. i take it she likes less nutes than the rest - going to take it easier on her, even though I'm currently barely feeding them all. she's in the back right, #2 left back, #1 front.
xmas stems have little odor yet when rubbed, although #1 had a hint of funkyness.
Though these ones have been in 1-gallon pots, next round i'm running the 2-gallons i think. if a good goal is 1 gram per watt:
180w + 300w + 2x t-5 lights unknown watt, say 25w each means
I'd need about 530 grams to get 1gpw. That's 19 ozs. Oh my. Not attainable this round i think
cleaned excess leaf under the screen, and defoliated the xmases a little bit. i'm wondering if i should bend the 2-3 tallest xmas branches. now pics:
group:
doggy #2 on right, xmas on left:
more xmases. do they need more leafs removed?:
regarding the xmas's stretch -both the xmas's pots are tilted at least 45 degrees each, so a significant amount of growth is like horizontalish mang. there's a picture above of one descrogged to show what i mean.
the xmases aren't nearly as filled in as the doggys.
Soon it will be day 21, week 3.
By week 5 I need all the extra fan leafs removed. Quote DHF:
drip clean
by week 5, pull all those fans that have stems off the main cola`s/limbs till they`re all gone except for the sugar leaves extending out from the colas/nuggage.....
With 3 weeks left they`ve got the opportunity to swell a bunch more but droppin ppm`s to let the plants purge themselves of all excess nitrogen`s gonna help your bottomline taste/smell/cure in the long run IME...
---
The ONLY 2 items I`ve seen turn the growin world on it`s ear that actually DO somethin that nothing else has up till now is H&G`s Dripclean and Root Excellurator
---
bobble:
Say you have a 10 week strain. You want to run full strength veg nutes through the first 5 weeks. Drip clean should go with the micro, b/c it's the micros that cause the lockouts ime.. meaning, that I stop adding drip clean when I stop using micro.
---\\
So my weeks start on Sunday. Week four ends next week.
By week 5 I need all the extra fan leafs removed. Quote DHF:
drip clean
by week 5, pull all those fans that have stems off the main cola`s/limbs till they`re all gone except for the sugar leaves extending out from the colas/nuggage.....
With 3 weeks left they`ve got the opportunity to swell a bunch more but droppin ppm`s to let the plants purge themselves of all excess nitrogen`s gonna help your bottomline taste/smell/cure in the long run IME...
---
The ONLY 2 items I`ve seen turn the growin world on it`s ear that actually DO somethin that nothing else has up till now is H&G`s Dripclean and Root Excellurator
---
bobble:
Say you have a 10 week strain. You want to run full strength veg nutes through the first 5 weeks. Drip clean should go with the micro, b/c it's the micros that cause the lockouts ime.. meaning, that I stop adding drip clean when I stop using micro.
---\\
So my weeks start on Sunday. Week four ends next week.
Bro i am real dubious about the benefits off pulling off too much leaf so be very careful.
Otherwise im loving the show, thanks for sharing.
Peace
Otherwise im loving the show, thanks for sharing.
Peace
yeah me to bro
that seems well to early to do anything like that
you want to be feeding the doggys hard until at least end of week 7 and def not pulling leafs before then or even at all in my opinion
also xmas special if they haze dominant then you will def need to keep feeding an extra week and def not defoliating them
the leaves store all the nutrients and hold moisture in the plant silly to start taking them off
especialy if your looking to pull a respectable yield
peace
that seems well to early to do anything like that
you want to be feeding the doggys hard until at least end of week 7 and def not pulling leafs before then or even at all in my opinion
also xmas special if they haze dominant then you will def need to keep feeding an extra week and def not defoliating them
the leaves store all the nutrients and hold moisture in the plant silly to start taking them off
especialy if your looking to pull a respectable yield
peace
W
Wookieefoot
Girls are looking great and nice scrog work! Late to the show, but I read all posts. 
Now I got to go through your other LED grows.
Now I got to go through your other LED grows.
awesome thanks for the info guys. you never know what one will do after a night of browsing ICMag
I'm going to leave the plants alone for now and give them both a bump in the nutes department. A tiny tiny little leaf burn in of the doggy's shouldn't slow us down.
Really appreciate the comments. CSG has just about the best cannabis client relation reps on the internet!
p.s. about to give them some food, about 750-1000 ppms worth. I notice one of the plants has some mild yellow tinty to the veininess... lets see if giving them more food helps. They're been on a diet for about a week
edit2: the tent smells fruity! Like bubblegum fruity, like that yellow fruity gum. And frosty!
I'll take a picture of the couple leafs that look to have a deficiency... probably because i wanst feeding them enough!
and finally, I am bottom feeding these plants. its fun to fill up their tray with nutes and watch the plants suck the water up. its like they're alive!
Last edited:
Also, I just realized's DHF's defoliation comments were probably geared towards a stretchy, high-yielding commercial strain.
Just goes to show everybody - there's a million different ways to grow cannabis... some right, some wrong, some right or wrong depending on your situation.
so for this run, a non-production run, basically a test run, we want to keep it so that the plants express their full potential without any interference from me.
one question for the max-harvest growers who run indica-dom plants like GDP... how do they do it? may yield for indicas?
I probably have read the answer but if anyone wants to save me time let me know!
1st thought - sog or scrog, long veg time, top multiples.
ok, back to finish the bowl lol
Just goes to show everybody - there's a million different ways to grow cannabis... some right, some wrong, some right or wrong depending on your situation.
so for this run, a non-production run, basically a test run, we want to keep it so that the plants express their full potential without any interference from me.
one question for the max-harvest growers who run indica-dom plants like GDP... how do they do it? may yield for indicas?
I probably have read the answer but if anyone wants to save me time let me know!
1st thought - sog or scrog, long veg time, top multiples.
ok, back to finish the bowl lol
day 23, week 1 update!
in this group shot of the doggies, you can see the leaf yellowing in a circle area near the middle-right of this picture:
as you can see they have plenty of foliage left more of a side view:
i gave them a feeding of around 700 ppms with the theory that the plant is hungry and i need to start feeding them heavy according to the csg crew's advice see how its localized there. bud shot:
and the xmases:
For the next CSG run, i do have an army of clones of xmas #1 rooted to go. Or maybe I should save those for an outdoor attempt? We'll see, I have to smoke them first
in this group shot of the doggies, you can see the leaf yellowing in a circle area near the middle-right of this picture:
as you can see they have plenty of foliage left
more of a side view:i gave them a feeding of around 700 ppms with the theory that the plant is hungry and i need to start feeding them heavy according to the csg crew's advice
see how its localized there. bud shot:and the xmases:
For the next CSG run, i do have an army of clones of xmas #1 rooted to go. Or maybe I should save those for an outdoor attempt? We'll see, I have to smoke them first
Last edited:
