haha get outta here, really? That's handy to know...
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hedgeraider
Member
1/ soil quality, dryness, retention, color of soil, color of nettles/brambles and their size
nettles and brambles larger than 1/4 inch stem means it's not awful
2/ sunlight number hours, will it have s/l to flower with, can you cut, have a compass on you
will it be too hot
3/altitude... at 800 meters it seems to rain twice as often and be more like 25 than 32 all summer. very good if its 32 in summer
4/ hunters/ smellability, sound, parking, tracks in soil, raw materials, discreet parking nearby, take a bike after, accessability with water.
5/ animals, ring the plants with gaffer covered in snil pellets hidden from rain, mix engine cleaner (wd40 smell) with meat and milk and vinegar and leave an open bottle to drive away pigs and deer. pigs deffo hate it. deer can get past it. put fishing line at deer neck hight so they get startled. they wont go past it.
7/ water sources... if you dont have a water source, get 4 binbags, blow em up, tie em with rope, wrap them in glass fibre, pain on epoxy. it's a way of bringing a 200 litre water tank in a backpack. you'll need about 1 layer of thick FB epoxy for every 50 litres. put smelly rotten stuff in and around the water butt so a mouse doesnt get in there.
6/ that's my guide
nettles and brambles larger than 1/4 inch stem means it's not awful
2/ sunlight number hours, will it have s/l to flower with, can you cut, have a compass on you
will it be too hot
3/altitude... at 800 meters it seems to rain twice as often and be more like 25 than 32 all summer. very good if its 32 in summer
4/ hunters/ smellability, sound, parking, tracks in soil, raw materials, discreet parking nearby, take a bike after, accessability with water.
5/ animals, ring the plants with gaffer covered in snil pellets hidden from rain, mix engine cleaner (wd40 smell) with meat and milk and vinegar and leave an open bottle to drive away pigs and deer. pigs deffo hate it. deer can get past it. put fishing line at deer neck hight so they get startled. they wont go past it.
7/ water sources... if you dont have a water source, get 4 binbags, blow em up, tie em with rope, wrap them in glass fibre, pain on epoxy. it's a way of bringing a 200 litre water tank in a backpack. you'll need about 1 layer of thick FB epoxy for every 50 litres. put smelly rotten stuff in and around the water butt so a mouse doesnt get in there.
6/ that's my guide
The most important thing I learned outdoor is autumn light....you need it for your flowers to finish into anything worthwhile.
Growing large cannabis plants outdoors is pretty easy, but growing high quality flowers on them in the Autumn is the hard part.
Your plot must get good direct sun in September, October and even later than that for some places and strains to be able to properly finish bud into something worthwhile.
Also, morning Sun is worth 10x afternoon sun, why ? Just imagine yourself in October, cold morning dew on your beautiful buds, those copping warming drying morning sun dry off quickly, those that have to wait later stand a far greater chance of rotting and/or getting harvested as shitty schwag before they can mature properly into better than indoor representations of themselves. You really can grow a 1/10 bud right next to a 10/10 bud, using the same clone, all you have to do is harvest her 3 weeks early, like many do....
I got pissed off with it as ultimately you cannot control Nature and your entire years work can get fucked with shitty weather beyond your control.
So, IMO, run autos as well, matured properly good autos are as good as 99% of the bud out there
Also, the best bud out there is grown in light dep, forcing 12/12 in summer when light levels are 3x whatnthey are in autumn*. Most indoor growers will tell you, Light = Yield plus you have less issues with rains, Police & Thieves.
*is the figure I heard, seems legit, but has no reference to where, or when which will obviously vary.
Growing large cannabis plants outdoors is pretty easy, but growing high quality flowers on them in the Autumn is the hard part.
Your plot must get good direct sun in September, October and even later than that for some places and strains to be able to properly finish bud into something worthwhile.
Also, morning Sun is worth 10x afternoon sun, why ? Just imagine yourself in October, cold morning dew on your beautiful buds, those copping warming drying morning sun dry off quickly, those that have to wait later stand a far greater chance of rotting and/or getting harvested as shitty schwag before they can mature properly into better than indoor representations of themselves. You really can grow a 1/10 bud right next to a 10/10 bud, using the same clone, all you have to do is harvest her 3 weeks early, like many do....
I got pissed off with it as ultimately you cannot control Nature and your entire years work can get fucked with shitty weather beyond your control.
So, IMO, run autos as well, matured properly good autos are as good as 99% of the bud out there
Also, the best bud out there is grown in light dep, forcing 12/12 in summer when light levels are 3x whatnthey are in autumn*. Most indoor growers will tell you, Light = Yield plus you have less issues with rains, Police & Thieves.
*is the figure I heard, seems legit, but has no reference to where, or when which will obviously vary.
Chaos -
Great points made here man. I've noticed first hand how important morning light is compared to afternoon for those exact reasons - morning dew. That shit is evil, and the plants that didn't get hit with A.M. rays didn't get very big and some even battled mold problems because of it.
Southeastern exposure should give the plants the best morning light, am I right?
I've been tempted to run autos myself for the same reasons, but I wish they weren't so expensive for the amount of yield you get from them. I'd want to litter about 50 of them per patch if I went that route, but the cost for the beans would be the same as running 50 normal sized plants so I can't really see it being worth it... do you know anyone who sells mold resistant autos in bulk packs? That would be ideal I think for the guerrilla grower putting out more than 10 plants...
Great points made here man. I've noticed first hand how important morning light is compared to afternoon for those exact reasons - morning dew. That shit is evil, and the plants that didn't get hit with A.M. rays didn't get very big and some even battled mold problems because of it.
Southeastern exposure should give the plants the best morning light, am I right?
I've been tempted to run autos myself for the same reasons, but I wish they weren't so expensive for the amount of yield you get from them. I'd want to litter about 50 of them per patch if I went that route, but the cost for the beans would be the same as running 50 normal sized plants so I can't really see it being worth it... do you know anyone who sells mold resistant autos in bulk packs? That would be ideal I think for the guerrilla grower putting out more than 10 plants...
GEMiNi GENETiCS
Active member
I like the water storage idea .... would work well if you needed to be discrete.
Yes, southeastern should, but my point was more about also checking that the sun actually hits there in Autumn, till you really study it, it is "amazing" just how low the sun drops during the season. Grow a 4m plant in bright sun, that only really gets shade later on, and watch 4m of worthless scraggly timewasting bullshit arrive .
Re the Autos, I would send Old Pink a mail and/or speak to Auto breeders, pretty sure some will happily do you a deal where you help test some new strains in return for feedback.
Very true. All it takes is one or two trees that end up being a few feet too tall in August/September to fuck your flowering period all up.
GEMiNi GENETiCS
Active member
Yup and that's why a smart guerrilla will plant on the southern side of trees/bushes so the canna plant blends and only gets better light as the season progress'
I will strategically plant late finishers on the sides of bushes to shade them out earlier in evening to cut as much time off the finishing time as possible.
We also can do the calculations ourselves to get a rough idea where shadows will be cast in Autumn or be lazy and use one of the various sunlight apps. If you got $$$ to burn ... Eagle-Eye ... takes a pic of the sky and will give a break down for light intensity for the year broken down by the month .... would help you pick which limbs or trees(avoid removing trees if possible) to get better penetration to your patch without removing limbs or trees that don't improve light to your plot.
I will strategically plant late finishers on the sides of bushes to shade them out earlier in evening to cut as much time off the finishing time as possible.
We also can do the calculations ourselves to get a rough idea where shadows will be cast in Autumn or be lazy and use one of the various sunlight apps. If you got $$$ to burn ... Eagle-Eye ... takes a pic of the sky and will give a break down for light intensity for the year broken down by the month .... would help you pick which limbs or trees(avoid removing trees if possible) to get better penetration to your patch without removing limbs or trees that don't improve light to your plot.
Anybody have experience with home soil test kits?
This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1662-Professional-Tests/dp/B003JCMKEK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424716803&sr=8-3&keywords=soil+test+kit
Comes with 40 or 80 tests and the comments seem to attest to its accuracy.
This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1662-Professional-Tests/dp/B003JCMKEK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424716803&sr=8-3&keywords=soil+test+kit
Comes with 40 or 80 tests and the comments seem to attest to its accuracy.
I haven't, but I just got my results back from Logan Labs. They charge $25 for a basic soil test, this is what the results looked like:
(This is a soil mix I'm recycling)
(This is a soil mix I'm recycling)
$25 can add up though when you have multiple potential sites to test the soil from. For a mix that you make though you can't do much better than that.
Yeah it can add up for sure. If those DIY tests are accurate I would be very interested... has anyone tried them out before?
The one comment on amazon stated that it gave the same results as an earlier $40 lab test. That's an amazon comment though so take it for what it's worth.
They're not detailed accurate, in the sense that they don't give an exact ph, they're more designed to be a rough and ready test to give you a good idea of what's going on in that dirt.
They're not detailed accurate, in the sense that they don't give an exact ph, they're more designed to be a rough and ready test to give you a good idea of what's going on in that dirt.
GEMiNi GENETiCS
Active member
No first hand experience but I would say using the home test to get a rough range and then send in 1-2 samples from each plot to get more exacts if your worried .... .. but at the very least the home tests will let you know if anything is out of wack
I'll be testing next spring with Logan .... if its a good season I'll be able to test all 40 mounds/holes if not I'll test 25% to get an idea where everything is at....home tests this year for native soil and 2 Logan tests for my soil mix.
™ that soil test looks good man .... that's already gone through a cycle as well?
The guy I'm getting compost from has Logan Labs test his compost but he pays a bit more and gets biological activity as well so you know how many fungi/bacteria/protozoa colonies and what's active/ inactive in the compost which can be VERY helpful.
I'll be testing next spring with Logan .... if its a good season I'll be able to test all 40 mounds/holes if not I'll test 25% to get an idea where everything is at....home tests this year for native soil and 2 Logan tests for my soil mix.
™ that soil test looks good man .... that's already gone through a cycle as well?
The guy I'm getting compost from has Logan Labs test his compost but he pays a bit more and gets biological activity as well so you know how many fungi/bacteria/protozoa colonies and what's active/ inactive in the compost which can be VERY helpful.
I like how you're doing everything Gemini, it makes sense not to blow all that money on testing native at Logan Labs. I think I'm gonna order some home tests before I start digging up samples this spring... any recommendations on easy/reliable kits?
Yeah this was just a peat/rice hull/compost seedling mix with oyster shell, crab shell, kelp, and insect frass that was ran for a single veg cycle. I'm still waiting to hear back from Buildasoil for a diagnosis on recycling and re-amending, this is actually my very first time doing this to a soil mix. I just got into no-till, and before these past 2 cycles I've been dumping out my soil into the compost pile out back
I feel like I have a lot to learn from you still man, not only in soil science but in going guerrilla as well...
