-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Gnatrol WDG
- Thread starter bilbobonger
- Start date
I got 195 grams of powder in a white tub with a screw on top from an Amazon seller. I think the stuff is sold by the manufacturer in 5-gallon pails and one or more Amazon vendors are repackaging it. I'd be concerned if your vials contain liquid. Pretty sure they switched to powder several years ago so liquid might be a few years old.
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks guys. No, it's powder. Repackaged stuff in clear plastic tubes from Amazon. Guess it's only considered a "vial" if made of glass, my bad.
2 tsp/gal is still almost half a tsp/gal more than the maximum recommended dosage for a heavy infestation. I wanna get these things knocked out, but I don't wanna waste it either. Couple other threads here where people mention using as high as 8 tsp/gal.
Think I'm gonna try and use closer to 1 tsp/gal, and see how it goes. If I go with two here I won't even have half enough to do a follow up treatment.
How long are you guys waiting to do the second dose? It says on the label to use for three consecutive weeks, but I thought fungus gnats hatch every three days or so.
2 tsp/gal is still almost half a tsp/gal more than the maximum recommended dosage for a heavy infestation. I wanna get these things knocked out, but I don't wanna waste it either. Couple other threads here where people mention using as high as 8 tsp/gal.
Think I'm gonna try and use closer to 1 tsp/gal, and see how it goes. If I go with two here I won't even have half enough to do a follow up treatment.
How long are you guys waiting to do the second dose? It says on the label to use for three consecutive weeks, but I thought fungus gnats hatch every three days or so.
you should use it how the directions state - every 5 days right?
maybe 3 days would be best - cut that life cycle shorter. gnats only live a few weeks.
i still have gnats because i keep bringiing home awesome new plants and a gnat always manages its way into the weed garden but I use SNS 209 and its working cause I don't see them multiplying at all - just a few random ones here and there.
maybe 3 days would be best - cut that life cycle shorter. gnats only live a few weeks.
i still have gnats because i keep bringiing home awesome new plants and a gnat always manages its way into the weed garden but I use SNS 209 and its working cause I don't see them multiplying at all - just a few random ones here and there.
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks for the response here LyryC,
Yeah, I thought three days would be the way to go too, but the above instruction say to use three weekly doses. I used up everything I had in two doses at 1tsp/gal, one week apart. According to the instructions, this' the recommended dose for a heavy infestation. Even used a pyrithrin bomb along with it and there's still tons of gnats flyin' around in there. Plus the stuff made a fuqin mess outa my res. Will look into the SNS 209 tho, thx.
Yeah, I thought three days would be the way to go too, but the above instruction say to use three weekly doses. I used up everything I had in two doses at 1tsp/gal, one week apart. According to the instructions, this' the recommended dose for a heavy infestation. Even used a pyrithrin bomb along with it and there's still tons of gnats flyin' around in there. Plus the stuff made a fuqin mess outa my res. Will look into the SNS 209 tho, thx.
One of my posts from another thread that probably needs to be reposted--knowing when to use BTI is part of the secret.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5647315&postcount=316....adding Mosquito Bits (not DUNKS) to your soil, bacteria brew, or even as a "top dressing" does work. Adding yellow sticky cards and observing the number of gnats is a nice measuring tool...since I count only 4-10 gnats per card (4 weeks)--I know I am OK. (My next door neighbor over waters her outdoor plants...and I assume that is the primary source of fungus gnats).
Let me clear up something--you are 100% correct that there have been reported incidents of critters developing a resistance to the active ingredient in Gnatrol, Mosquito Dunks/Bits--bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (BTI). But if we understand WHEN to use BTI, your rate of success in battling fungus gnats and your pocket book will both improve.
First--here is the Fungus Gnat lifecycle...
The Mode of Action for BTI is "mid-gut membrane disruptor" (no chems) and is most effective against the young first instar larvae, which at the 4 o'clock position in the above pic. The bacteria must be ingested by the larva, after which a toxic protein crystal is released into the insect's gut. Larvae stop feeding and die.
Fungus gnats life cycle is 20-28 days and as you can see, BTI is effective only 2-3 of those days. Huge draw back of Gnatrol is its short effective life of 48 hours, whereas Mosquito Bits/Dunks are constantly releasing BTI as moisture dissolves the carrier--which can take days/weeks.
Strategic use of BTI is the key to success...as there are only a few days of the gnats life when it will work!
Hope this helps!
BTW...for a "soil critter spray" consider this recipe--that will seriously knock down the soil dwellers...but fair warning, if you overspray--it will be white and look like snow on Christmas Morning.
1 gal water
8 oz of Fossil Shell Flour (foodgrade DE)
30 ml Neem Oil
30 ml Riptide (pyrethrin+pbo)
Constant shaking and spray the soil surface liberally! The Fossil Shell Flour acts as both a carrier for the Neem & Riptide...and the dried diatoms act as a "grinder" of sorts and shreds the wings/legs of gnats.
Tip: Emulsify the Neem Oil: Mason jar half filled with water + Neem Oil + Riptide....seal, and shake like a mutha. Then add water to equal 1 gallon.
Cheers!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5647315&postcount=316....adding Mosquito Bits (not DUNKS) to your soil, bacteria brew, or even as a "top dressing" does work. Adding yellow sticky cards and observing the number of gnats is a nice measuring tool...since I count only 4-10 gnats per card (4 weeks)--I know I am OK. (My next door neighbor over waters her outdoor plants...and I assume that is the primary source of fungus gnats).
Let me clear up something--you are 100% correct that there have been reported incidents of critters developing a resistance to the active ingredient in Gnatrol, Mosquito Dunks/Bits--bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (BTI). But if we understand WHEN to use BTI, your rate of success in battling fungus gnats and your pocket book will both improve.
First--here is the Fungus Gnat lifecycle...
The Mode of Action for BTI is "mid-gut membrane disruptor" (no chems) and is most effective against the young first instar larvae, which at the 4 o'clock position in the above pic. The bacteria must be ingested by the larva, after which a toxic protein crystal is released into the insect's gut. Larvae stop feeding and die.
Fungus gnats life cycle is 20-28 days and as you can see, BTI is effective only 2-3 of those days. Huge draw back of Gnatrol is its short effective life of 48 hours, whereas Mosquito Bits/Dunks are constantly releasing BTI as moisture dissolves the carrier--which can take days/weeks.
Strategic use of BTI is the key to success...as there are only a few days of the gnats life when it will work!
Hope this helps!
BTW...for a "soil critter spray" consider this recipe--that will seriously knock down the soil dwellers...but fair warning, if you overspray--it will be white and look like snow on Christmas Morning.
1 gal water
8 oz of Fossil Shell Flour (foodgrade DE)
30 ml Neem Oil
30 ml Riptide (pyrethrin+pbo)
Constant shaking and spray the soil surface liberally! The Fossil Shell Flour acts as both a carrier for the Neem & Riptide...and the dried diatoms act as a "grinder" of sorts and shreds the wings/legs of gnats.
Tip: Emulsify the Neem Oil: Mason jar half filled with water + Neem Oil + Riptide....seal, and shake like a mutha. Then add water to equal 1 gallon.
Cheers!
In addition to understanding the gnat's lifecycle, you also need to know where the larvae are feeding. It's pretty easy in soil since the whole root ball is the feeding ground and it's easy to target with BTi. The key point is that the larvae need to consume the BTi while feeding. The bacteria need to be in the feeding zone in sufficient quantities to be consumed. I've never used any true hydroponic growing systems so I don't know what the implications are.
Even though I've had 100% success using Gnatrol, I've found it even better to prevent the problem in the first place. If you can interupt the lifecycle by preventing the adults from leaving the soil and taking flight they won't be able to reproduce and the strays that make their way into the grow won't be able to take hold.
I cover the drain holes in the pots with fiberglass screen mesh and then cover the top of the soil with a fiberglass screen mesh disc and a half inch or so of pea gravel. This also makes watering much faster and easier. I've cut a bunch of mesh pieces for all the pot sizes I use and reuse them over and over. So far so good (knock on wood).
Even though I've had 100% success using Gnatrol, I've found it even better to prevent the problem in the first place. If you can interupt the lifecycle by preventing the adults from leaving the soil and taking flight they won't be able to reproduce and the strays that make their way into the grow won't be able to take hold.
I cover the drain holes in the pots with fiberglass screen mesh and then cover the top of the soil with a fiberglass screen mesh disc and a half inch or so of pea gravel. This also makes watering much faster and easier. I've cut a bunch of mesh pieces for all the pot sizes I use and reuse them over and over. So far so good (knock on wood).
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks for all the info here. Think I'm gonna give the bits a try and see how it goes. I'm using air-pots, so it's pretty well impossible for me to cover up all the holes with mesh or DE.
EclipseFour20-
So with the bits, I just use em the same way I would the dunks right, like a top dressing?
EclipseFour20-
So with the bits, I just use em the same way I would the dunks right, like a top dressing?
I mix the bits in the grow medium before transplanting (15ml per container rate--7.5ml for the 1/2 gallon and under size), I mix the bits in my "bacteria brew" (15ml per gallon), and should a plant become infested (yellow sticky card helps me identify any problem children) I mix bits in the top soil (15ml per plant), then hydrate and spray the soil surface with my DE, Neem & Riptide combo spray.
So the answer is yes--I use Mosquito Bits as a top dressing, a soil ingredient, as well as an ingredient for my bacteria brew.
BTW, forget about sifting DE/sand on the soil surface, my buddy Ray Cloyd published a study that concluded that DE on the surface will dry out and leave cracks--resulting in very little effectiveness to control gnats. But...if you spray the soil surface with a wet solution containing DE, better results since the diatoms absorb the spray solution (like Neem & Riptide in my recipe), and as the diatom dries it will regain the ability to shred the gnat's exoskeleton. Guess if you coat the soil surface like a powdered donut--no bueno, but if you spray the surface with a light covering--muy bueno!
Link to that study...--www.online-keys.net/sciaroidea/add01/Cloyd_et_al_2007_Bradysia.pdf...that concluded,
"The dry and moist DE and sand treatments had no
affect on fungus gnats in terms of inhibiting adult
emergence or preventing egg laying by females. Adsorption
of moisture by DE particles reduces the abrasive
properties and thus effectiveness against arthropod
pests that reside in the growing medium."
Cheers!
Last edited:
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks for the response here EclipseFour20, gonna give this a try. I like the idea of adding directly to the coco rather than to my res. Tryin' to keep things as clean and clear in there as possible. Been hearing lots of good things about adding in bacterial brews tho, mainly caps tea. Heard it keeps the critters in check and keeps the plants super healthy but I'm concerned I'm gonna end up with brown sludge all over everything. Runnin' drippers too, so this would be a fuqin nightmare. Thought about adding em in wen my reservoirs are down close to the end tho, so they don't sit in there for too long. Gonna grab some bits though right away. Thanks again for all the info.
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks for the response here granger- Yeah, I'm runnin' DTW. Read somewhere that running the stuff through a water pump ruins the tea tho. Do you know if there's any truth to this? Something about the pump breaking down fibers or something along that line.
bayarea925
Active member
Any info on this? bump
Last edited:
Chriscrete
Member
hey guys, so whats the verdict on MEASUREMENTS for hydro ressies?????
Ive read like 20 different ways to measure this stuff out, got the powder off amazon.
I run 8 different ressies under FnD tables 75gal, 2-50gals, 3-40gals and 27gal
any help would be great at this point, im dying over here on the east coast!
Ive read like 20 different ways to measure this stuff out, got the powder off amazon.
I run 8 different ressies under FnD tables 75gal, 2-50gals, 3-40gals and 27gal
any help would be great at this point, im dying over here on the east coast!
Can you hand water it in? recommend you do that. Get a 5 gallon bucket or a garbage can... like 20 gallons. idk your setup, but I don't advise running it through any pumps and lines.
Its hard to mix in the water, so if you would put it in the rez, I'd say put the amount into a 1 gallon jug with water and shake that up till you can just pour a concentration of it into your res because again, its hard to mix, the powder clots up into balls n such, unless you put real little amounts at a time and have a heavy water flow, like say a pump from up high dropping water openly into a container like a water fall.
good luck.
I found Nematodes 100x more effective. And only one application.
Its hard to mix in the water, so if you would put it in the rez, I'd say put the amount into a 1 gallon jug with water and shake that up till you can just pour a concentration of it into your res because again, its hard to mix, the powder clots up into balls n such, unless you put real little amounts at a time and have a heavy water flow, like say a pump from up high dropping water openly into a container like a water fall.
good luck.
I found Nematodes 100x more effective. And only one application.
Chriscrete
Member
thanks for the advice man, helps a lot
Nematodes? really?
any chance you got a link? Im willing to try anything at this point, I got a legit problem right now....im assuming they came in via the soil in my moms (7 of em in 5gal buckets) and into my new enviorment and just exploded, now theyre in all of my tables and ressies HARDCORE! Roots look like somebody shook black pepper all over them...totally disgusting and killing my efforts and wasting my $$$ ya know!?
Chriscrete
Member
ITs going to be more costly with the size of your grow.
I would determine the amount of medium you need to treat and then contact BioLogic Company
Maybe a spray would suit you better, but I went with the original formula in vermiculite. 10million, wasn't that many, covered my whole grow, but Im a hobbyist.
Ask them.
Sounds HORRIBLE.
the WDG should work tho, you just need to re apply it every week.
You could let shit dry up too.
I would determine the amount of medium you need to treat and then contact BioLogic Company
Maybe a spray would suit you better, but I went with the original formula in vermiculite. 10million, wasn't that many, covered my whole grow, but Im a hobbyist.
Ask them.
Sounds HORRIBLE.
the WDG should work tho, you just need to re apply it every week.
You could let shit dry up too.
