Get rid of “The Slime” aka “Brown Slime Algae” aka “Cyanobacteria” forever!

[georgeforeman]

Not really.start with bleach.then pool shock.then Eryth.then NEW,is how I read It...

As for boiled water??? I doubt you can stop all of the vectors short of a sterile lab.... I just add in Clorex

I have tried pool shock with no luck. Right now im trying 80 degree water with dm zone. 11 days in it looks promising, but too early to tell.

The whole thread did not make sense to me. Why buy dangerous antibiotics if the alternative is to just buy/build a new cloner. What keeps the slime from coming back if there is no maintenance dose. Is the incoming water treated.

Also, i use RO water with UV and that does not stop the slime.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

i use RO water with UV and that does not stop the slime.

So.... you used anti-biotics to clean your overfilled hydro equipment (making sure all surfaces got treated) and then you used nothing but your R/O-UV water and you still got slime?

Remember that rinsing in tap-water and then using your pH probe can re-infect instantly. Any equipment that was 'rinsed' with tap water will be an infection point.

Grow mushrooms using sterile procedures.... then apply that insight to the infection going on in your setups. Is it really coming from the R/O-UV water? I highly doubt it. There will be some point of infection that you're overlooking.

Stay Safe!

 

[georgeforeman]

So.... you used anti-biotics to clean your overfilled hydro equipment (making sure all surfaces got treated) and then you used nothing but your R/O-UV water and you still got slime?

I built my new cloner from new equipment and used RO/UV water. There are no signs of slime yet. I did not buy antibiotics and do not want to go that route.

 

[Herborizer]

Buying spring water, real spring water, in the bottle is another option.

 

[georgeforeman]

Buying spring water, real spring water, in the bottle is another option.

only certain brands and only if you know where it was bottled.

 

[Herborizer]

FYI, with my water RO doesn't filer out the slime.

 

[Hash Zeppelin]

I have an easier solution for you dude. Way cheap over time.
use a clean razor blade that you have wiped with a paper towel to get off any factory oils. Then mix water with clonex liquid and H&G root accelerator plus to 5.8 ph. Dip cuttings in that water then dip them into the root green light rooting powder, then stick them into the rooting cubes that have also been dipped in that water. spray once a day, leave vent half way open. Check block moisture. to soggy equals no roots. to dry equals withering and death.

put under a blue floro light for 18 hours a day.

 

[Herborizer]

Some water is just not going to produce well, even with roots excel, etc. my water has something in it that clones don't like, no matter what medium. CL solves it. Bottled real spring water solves it.

I have tried a landaury list of methods and additives. For almost 2 years non stop. I have had success in every medium, but slow to root and lots of failures.

I have tried RW, rapid rooters, coco, soil, ice tube trays with vermiculite, cup of water, two turbo clones, and two home made bubble cloners. I have used teas, powerclone, clonex, dip and grow, Olivia's, root tech, super thrive, rootone, liquids and gels, mycos, and probably more. I have used tap water, RO water, distilled water, spring water.

I have used domes, no domes, small clones, big clones, leaves trimmed, and leaves untrimmed. I have tried 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 nodes in the medium. Heat mats, heated water baths, room heat and rh control. Various temps and rh tested.

I always use a brand new razor blade. I always sterilize everything. Always use brand new hospital gloves of the process. I make my final 45 cut under water, I cut all nodes under water.

And I have done a lot more.

In the end, it's my water. For me I have success with two methods. I add chlorine to my water, or I buy quality spring water. Bottom line, cloning isn't always simple.

Ps. You gotta give me credit for not giving up.

 

[avant gardener]

any good info available on on erythromycin's phytotoxicity?
everything i read about other plants said it was not,
but then i'm not concerned with potatoes or cottonseed.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

FYI, with my water RO doesn't filer out the slime.

I'd like to know more about your procedures since there are literally thousands of ways you can re-contaminate your stuff, even when using R/O.

It took me a while before my habits were ingrained enough to not re-contaminate the system with objects that had come in contact with tap-water.

It only took a drop with my water and I'd have massive snot coming out of the bottoms of my buckets in 3 days. Suuuper extra careful and no snot.

Stay Safe!

 

[Oregonism]

I am just wondering if there is some more scientifice info?

I do a shit ton of Bokashi stuff and cyanobacteria is a main constituent of my beneficial organims. However, most strains are anaerobic, so it seems with a way to monitor your Dissolved Oxygen, which no ones does or understands, that would be a way to corral it.

Second, any idea whether it is gram positive or gram negative, I am guessing gram negative, but that would help in identifying species.

Lastly, the erythromycin is produced from an Actinomycete specifically Saccharopolyspora erythraea [according to Wiki] so how about using Actinovate as a trial? Actinovate MDS sheet lists another species as their source, but usually there are many strains of beneficial organisms and cyanobacteria are quite common, so it is not impossible that other alternatives especially a more organic acid based, than the Erythromycin, which the use of, scares the shit out of me, especially when producing medicine...........

Isn't that part of the reason of growing ganja, giving the middle Finger to Big Pharma, aka Eli Lilly? Now I am afraid to go look for the MDS, it will not be pretty.

 

[catalyte]

this thread may solve the biggest pest issue i have ever encountered!!!

THANK YOU Ultra Current!!! So glad you shared this knowledge... been looking into this problem by more conventional sources but this is the most promising breakthrough i have learned yet.

 

[slimpickin]

Thanks uc this is good info.I delt with the slim for 2 years it dont matter what they want to call it we that have had it know what it is and does your the man! ps beat mine with fish hydrostat.

 

[slimpickin]

Thanks UC this is good info .

 

[NotaProfessor]

I'd like to know more about your procedures since there are literally thousands of ways you can re-contaminate your stuff, even when using R/O.

It took me a while before my habits were ingrained enough to not re-contaminate the system with objects that had come in contact with tap-water.

It only took a drop with my water and I'd have massive snot coming out of the bottoms of my buckets in 3 days. Suuuper extra careful and no snot.

Stay Safe!

I'm curious...is your water from a private well?

 

[avant gardener]

I tried using this treatment.
It is useless in my opinion.

I have not been able to find any credible, peer reviewed evidence that suggests that cyanobacteria is the pathogen that causes root slime. For that matter, I don't see a lot that says it's an algae either. Just a lot of opinions posted by folks in these forums. If it's out there, I'd love to see it. Please post links. Seems like it's more probably an oomcyte though.

 

[vapedg13]

Add hydroguard or clonex clear rez to your rez water every 5 days...I run my ez cloner at 82*F and never get any slime ....use the same water for 3-4 weeks then I change it out

 

[Herborizer]

Add hydroguard or clonex clear rez to your rez water every 5 days...I run my ez cloner at 82*F and never get any slime ....use the same water for 3-4 weeks then I change it out

Clearres is just chlorine water. Yes it works great.

 

[avant gardener]

Add hydroguard or clonex clear rez to your rez water every 5 days...I run my ez cloner at 82*F and never get any slime ....use the same water for 3-4 weeks then I change it out

the only things alive in my room are the plants and me, so no hydroguard. clear rez is basically pool shock but grossly overpriced. if it's anything like DM Zone which is chloramine based, it will wipe out the slid for a little bit and then it will come back Cl resistant and with a vengeance.

never mind the slime. at 82° i'm surprised you're getting roots. you are very fortunate.

i have tried a gazillion things to clear mine up.
bio: aquashield/hydroguard, zho, EWC & compost teas, roots excel, hygrozyme, cannazyme, gimme-another-$50-zyme,
sterile: change RO filters and membranes, scrub everything, bleach everything, ozone, UV light, H2O2, bleach, DM Zone, Physan 20, erythromycin, instituting sterile field laboratory technique, replacing gear, prayer and sacrificial offerings. know how much of it has helped in the long term? NOT A GODDAMN THING!

it's time for final solutions. i'm breaking out the ridomil tomorrow. full report to follow.

 

[vapedg13]

Why do people think you need to be 70*F to root a clone??? I think most people just keep it cool to prevent the slime

In the winter time I will use RR and a dome if my ambient temp is 70.. it will take 3-4 weeks to get roots... in the summer my ambient temp is around 80 and roots pop in 2 weeks

.

never mind the slime. at 82° i'm surprised you're getting roots. you are very fortunate.

.

healthy roots too.. after 16 days pre 98 bubba...transplanting into sunshine #4