S
SeaMaiden
Here's a general Google search that includes scholarly articles.
Erythromycin treatment Cyanobacteria.
Erythromycin treatment Cyanobacteria.
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Get rid of “The Slime” aka “Brown Slime Algae” aka “Cyanobacteria” forever!
I really liked this thread and where it was going before things got nasty.
My recommendation is to further this research together. If we have someone with 20!!! Years experience with algae, wonderful. We are all fighting a common problem and we all can make valuable contributions.
This very thread started me down a new thread of research, of which I will share some interesting theories shortly.
My recommendation is to further this research together. If we have someone with 20!!! Years experience with algae, wonderful. We are all fighting a common problem and we all can make valuable contributions.
This very thread started me down a new thread of research, of which I will share some interesting theories shortly.
il19z8rn4li1
Member
sorry there brother but your slightly mistaken a tad..
Im a mycologist and deal with pasteurization on a daily basis..
For you to effectively pasteurize anything at 145'F it would have to be at a steady 145 for a time duration of at least 30mins.
OR... you can pasteurize a bit faster and more effectively at 160'F which is standard pasteurizing temp.
It is possible to "instant" pasteurize which takes 1 second of exposure of high temps that I believe are 245'F... BUT it can not exceed 1 second being at the temp because then you risk sterilizing, which if your trying to pasteurize you most def don't want to reach sterile.
So this thread got me thinking about the aquarium owners and how they must fight a very similar battle to our slime problems. Since we are lucky enough to have Seamaden on this thread who works in that area, Seamaden can help confirm or rule out this next theory.
Buried in Cortez's bubble cloner thread herein icmag, he mentions using this to prevent issues with algae in his cloner: https://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/9070hydro_tutorial.jpg
Tetra Aqua Easybalance.
It is used by fish tank owners to reduce the water changes required per year. It reduces nitrates and phosphates in water, which they believe prevents the algae.
After researching fish tank owner forums, the reviews are Very good. People claim that their fish have an almost immediate positive result. Also, there are many claims that they are getting much longer life out of their fish.
Could nitrates and phosphates also be causing us issues with cloning? Cortez from his cloning thread said this stuff was a "gem".
Nevertheless, this forum thread and mine about water and chlorine levels are very important. Maybe one day we can pin down the answer to why some peeples water works great for cloning while other peoples water is horrible for cloning. Also, what we can do to condition our own waters to achieve excellent results, while hopefully not adding toxic to our plants.
Buried in Cortez's bubble cloner thread herein icmag, he mentions using this to prevent issues with algae in his cloner: https://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/9070hydro_tutorial.jpg
Tetra Aqua Easybalance.
It is used by fish tank owners to reduce the water changes required per year. It reduces nitrates and phosphates in water, which they believe prevents the algae.
After researching fish tank owner forums, the reviews are Very good. People claim that their fish have an almost immediate positive result. Also, there are many claims that they are getting much longer life out of their fish.
Could nitrates and phosphates also be causing us issues with cloning? Cortez from his cloning thread said this stuff was a "gem".
Nevertheless, this forum thread and mine about water and chlorine levels are very important. Maybe one day we can pin down the answer to why some peeples water works great for cloning while other peoples water is horrible for cloning. Also, what we can do to condition our own waters to achieve excellent results, while hopefully not adding toxic to our plants.
I think the issue with nitrates and phosphates is that the algae is using these materials as nutrients, They are waste products from fish excrement, so I wouldn't expect them to be in the cloner solution. The algae growing on the aquarium glass, and turning the water green (Euglena), are photosythesizing, and shouldn't be a problem within the darkness of an aerocloner.
N
Nondual
I think Crusader Rabbit's take on this whole thing is much better. My main point has been how do you know it's cyanobacteria? The burden of proof is on you. My day job is a business related to algae and have to troubleshoot problems regularly and substantiate my findings before taking action. My first question is 'what is it'?
SeaMaiden here can probably help you better than anyone else regarding what this stuff actually is and I'd really like to know. If you wanna talk to a cyanobacteria expert track down Dr. Wayne Carmichael and if he doesn't know then can steer you in the right direction. He's now retired but still available. The whole aquarium angle and the knowledge base available there is interesting for sure.
The 'getting rid of forever' thing bothers me. The 'infection' came from somewhere, so you get rid of it 'forever' and how do you prevent it from coming back? Keeping a hydro enviro sterile is pretty much impossible. Sounds more like regular maintenance of some sort.
I do think the use of antibiotics is very interesting and has me thinking. You're the first person to mention this that I've seen in regards to indoor hydroponics and cudos for that.
When I was running hydro I had some similar issues that were resolved with a chiller...kind of what like Classy said. H2O2 was a bandaid but did help. No way to get around root exudate goo but Hygrozyme really helps break that stuff up! I had similar issues in my aero cloner which I started running toward the end of my indoor career...fresh cuts off mom with a new blade, new collars and cloner, deep well water, latex gloves on when handling things and boom some undesirable things showed up. I attribute it more to the higher temps in the cloner. If I ever run an aerocloner again will get a mini chiller.
I think the very fact that an antibiotic killed this snot, is diagnostic of it being a bacterial problem.
This man knows what he's talking about.
Re-occurring infections indicate an environmental factor is off. After the initial infection, once sanitized, the infection should be gone.
An example of such environmental factor may include one or more of the following: water temp too high, lack of oxygen, light penetration to reservoir, very contaminated water source, etc....
Bacteria may be present, but the abundant growth is indicative of conditions allowing that growth.
The use of Erythro is interesting.
For sporadic use I can see the benefits, but continual usage would seriously worry me. Hope you try to minimize contact as much as possible............perpetual exposure to antibiotics is NOT something I'd like to experience........
N
Nondual
Totally reasonable statement. Guess I'm still stuck on cyanobacteria being a different class of critters from bacteria. I'm glad 'they' broke off Archaea and gave it it's own class fairly recently separate from bacteria and a bit baffled how 'they' can include include some species, mainly chlorophyll containing ones, that require light/sunlight to proliferate. Seems some sources say it all comes down to being a eukaryote or prokaryote but still...
Archaea are 'different' and distinct.
and...
The amount of 'bacterial' species that function without producing energy through photosynthesis is huge compared to those that don't.
So maybe the definition for bacteria should be anything that antibiotics kill? I wonder if antibiotics kill archaea and if so maybe 'they' will reverse things and put archaea back in with bacteria?
C
cyber echo
Not trying to be off-topic here, but is there a way to stop or prevent from getting an infection in the first place ?
I always use a carbon filter on any water I will use for growing or whatelse, but is that really effective at blocking these things from entering your grow rooms ? There are also nute-tank filters that are close to fish-tank filters but with less filters as I understand it so that they dt seep nutes from the mix.
What about bacterial products that have bacterial strains that aggressively colonize but are benign or even beneficial to plants ?
Maybe a combination of both filters and competitive bacteria ?
Just wondering what the preventative measure would be after you had solved your problem the first time around.
I always use a carbon filter on any water I will use for growing or whatelse, but is that really effective at blocking these things from entering your grow rooms ? There are also nute-tank filters that are close to fish-tank filters but with less filters as I understand it so that they dt seep nutes from the mix.
What about bacterial products that have bacterial strains that aggressively colonize but are benign or even beneficial to plants ?
Maybe a combination of both filters and competitive bacteria ?
Just wondering what the preventative measure would be after you had solved your problem the first time around.
You're exactly right about this, but these forums exist for people to post and talk about their experiences and debate the results. Almost everyone has variables in their grow so there is rarely one answer that suits all.
Maybe you do, but you did a really poor job of responding to people that had simple questions or wanted some clarification on what you originally posted.
When I read your original post I had a dozen questions in my mind. Reading down the thread I quickly realized they wouldn't be answered by you, and saying "Google it yourself" pretty much flies in the face of your first quote.
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Can we get this one going again, or should someone start a new thread? I don't ever have this issue (I play in the dirt ) but I think there was some interesting discussion going on.
U
Ultra Current
I've received many PMs from growers who fixed their slime problems with Erythromycin treatments as I stated in the first post of this thread. Some of these growers had the slime for years and couldn't get rid of it with bleach and chlorine at huge doses. Now they are slime free and very happy and excited. Thank you for PMing me and telling me how it worked out for you. Please feel free at any time to tell us your results. I'm happy for all the people I have helped. Grow on!
Wish I'd had this info in North Edwards, CA.... I'm almost positive this is the crap I dealt with (and lost to) there. *sigh*
I think the suckiest thing is that it was a new setup for me at a new location with a different light.... took over a year before I figured out it was the water causing my issues. GaaaaahhhhH!
Thanks so much for the info in this thread... you've added some valuable info to my Doc's GrowKit Bag.
Stay Safe!
I think the suckiest thing is that it was a new setup for me at a new location with a different light.... took over a year before I figured out it was the water causing my issues. GaaaaahhhhH!
Thanks so much for the info in this thread... you've added some valuable info to my Doc's GrowKit Bag.
Stay Safe!
Thanks for the tip. If I ever decide to use my ez-cloner I'll be considering this information.
When my ez-cloner started to do this, I just moved on. It's a nice device and all, but almost all other systems works more reliably. One thing I'm learning as time goes by. Is that the less ways your system has to fail, the more reliable it will be. I had other missteps as well. I forgot to plug the pump back in, developed the slime, and let the water get too hot.
When it works. It works great. When it fails. It fails epically.
When my ez-cloner started to do this, I just moved on. It's a nice device and all, but almost all other systems works more reliably. One thing I'm learning as time goes by. Is that the less ways your system has to fail, the more reliable it will be. I had other missteps as well. I forgot to plug the pump back in, developed the slime, and let the water get too hot.
When it works. It works great. When it fails. It fails epically.
Hey.... just found out this crap is alive and kicking in the mountains up here, just heard of a couple growers having this very same issue. Hope they get the info I sent.
Stay Safe!
Stay Safe!
I believe I hav found an entry point..Had some cuts in a cup of water..In an inproper location,I kinda lost track of em..as I was trimming them up for the cloner I noticed some of what I was cutting off was starting to 'slime'...Smart people correct me if I am wrong, but any little bit of this in an untreated (bleach) system and we have a problem..
The water in north edwards California is so bad that I once rinsed my pH pen off in the tap water and used it the next day.... 3 days later my buckets had runny noses.
Stay Safe!
Stay Safe!
N
Nondual
I'm not claiming to be smart. How about an entry point being you are placing a non-sterile cut into water and 'they' or 'it', whatever 'they' or 'it' are, proliferate in a warm solution with organic material (the clone stems sticking in the solution) to breed off of. Maybe 'they' or 'it' is simply coming from the plants phyllosphere and no way to eliminate that and just control it.
Another thing peeps are dealing with is the water source which I'd wager a bet is not sterile. Also your hands are covered in bacteria. I was taught when cloning to wear latex gloves. In doing research into bokashi I learned there's a method where you inoculate the mixture with the bacteria on your hands.
Got most of that.except 'Phyllosphere' leaves?
