I tried the dunk method, my gnats eat that shit for breakfast and ask for more.
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the Rock
Active member
i put dunks in a blender and liquefy them first
Thought I would share my approach to fungus gnats. 
I grow in organic soil, fresh soil and compost coming into my grow room continuously. Normally this equates to endless gnats.
I never have more than 4 gnats on a sticky card. Here's how
First things first, yellow sticky traps work great above the canopy but they're also needed below. I take strips of yellow sticky card and stick them to Popsicle stix or chop stix. This is where I see gnats first. Off the soil and onto the card. I know within a day if gnats are brewing. In flower I had a couple cards on the ceiling with 1 or 2 gnats. The cards below had much more. Much better at early warning.
Dunks. I keep a dunk in a pantyhose floating in my res at all times. This method WILL NOT control an infestation. It just doesn't. I think it helps between an outbreak but can't decimate them.
Gnatrol, the secret weapon and why I don't have gnats. 2 waterings in a row and larvae are done for. Sticky traps and any pyreth will handle adults. In fact. The gnatrol works so well that I don't bother with the adults much. They don't have much luck laying more eggs/larvae so they just die. (Adults have a 7-10 day life.)
So eggs take 4-6 days to become larvae; larvae live for about 12-14 days becoming pupae; 3-6 days becomes and adult and somewhere in the next 7-10 days it lays eggs and dies. About 28 life cycle total.
I hit it twice in a row getting two hatching of larvae, wait 6-8 days and hit it again. Which gives three shots at them at different stages of development and then hits and stragglers. No new eggs should hatch with the Bti present and adults are dying and cant lay eggs and in that short period you've smashed their life cycle.
I've read that gnatrol is active in the soil for about 4 days depending on conditions.
This makes fungus gnats the least likely pest to get out of hand in my garden. Integrated pest management. I integrate this procedure into my growing. Meaning that I treat every 30 days and every fresh soil. It's part of my routine like mixing soil.
Gnatrol is available in smaller amounts for around $20 on ebay. That's where I get mine and always get 1-2 day service.
Smiley
I grow in organic soil, fresh soil and compost coming into my grow room continuously. Normally this equates to endless gnats.
I never have more than 4 gnats on a sticky card.
Here's howFirst things first, yellow sticky traps work great above the canopy but they're also needed below. I take strips of yellow sticky card and stick them to Popsicle stix or chop stix. This is where I see gnats first. Off the soil and onto the card. I know within a day if gnats are brewing. In flower I had a couple cards on the ceiling with 1 or 2 gnats. The cards below had much more. Much better at early warning.
Dunks. I keep a dunk in a pantyhose floating in my res at all times. This method WILL NOT control an infestation. It just doesn't. I think it helps between an outbreak but can't decimate them.
Gnatrol, the secret weapon and why I don't have gnats. 2 waterings in a row and larvae are done for. Sticky traps and any pyreth will handle adults. In fact. The gnatrol works so well that I don't bother with the adults much. They don't have much luck laying more eggs/larvae so they just die. (Adults have a 7-10 day life.)
So eggs take 4-6 days to become larvae; larvae live for about 12-14 days becoming pupae; 3-6 days becomes and adult and somewhere in the next 7-10 days it lays eggs and dies. About 28 life cycle total.
I hit it twice in a row getting two hatching of larvae, wait 6-8 days and hit it again. Which gives three shots at them at different stages of development and then hits and stragglers. No new eggs should hatch with the Bti present and adults are dying and cant lay eggs and in that short period you've smashed their life cycle.
I've read that gnatrol is active in the soil for about 4 days depending on conditions.
This makes fungus gnats the least likely pest to get out of hand in my garden. Integrated pest management. I integrate this procedure into my growing. Meaning that I treat every 30 days and every fresh soil. It's part of my routine like mixing soil.
Gnatrol is available in smaller amounts for around $20 on ebay. That's where I get mine and always get 1-2 day service.
Smiley
FinestKind
Member
Thought I would share my approach to fungus gnats.
I grow in organic soil, fresh soil and compost coming into my grow room continuously. Normally this equates to endless gnats.
I never have more than 4 gnats on a sticky card.
First things first, yellow sticky traps work great above the canopy but they're also needed below. I take strips of yellow sticky card and stick them to Popsicle stix or chop stix. This is where I see gnats first. Off the soil and onto the card. I know within a day if gnats are brewing. In flower I had a couple cards on the ceiling with 1 or 2 gnats. The cards below had much more. Much better at early warning.
Dunks. I keep a dunk in a pantyhose floating in my res at all times. This method WILL NOT control an infestation. It just doesn't. I think it helps between an outbreak but can't decimate them.
Gnatrol, the secret weapon and why I don't have gnats. 2 waterings in a row and larvae are done for. Sticky traps and any pyreth will handle adults. In fact. The gnatrol works so well that I don't bother with the adults much. They don't have much luck laying more eggs/larvae so they just die. (Adults have a 7-10 day life.)
So eggs take 4-6 days to become larvae; larvae live for about 12-14 days becoming pupae; 3-6 days becomes and adult and somewhere in the next 7-10 days it lays eggs and dies. About 28 life cycle total.
I hit it twice in a row getting two hatching of larvae, wait 6-8 days and hit it again. Which gives three shots at them at different stages of development and then hits and stragglers. No new eggs should hatch with the Bti present and adults are dying and cant lay eggs and in that short period you've smashed their life cycle.
I've read that gnatrol is active in the soil for about 4 days depending on conditions.
This makes fungus gnats the least likely pest to get out of hand in my garden. Integrated pest management. I integrate this procedure into my growing. Meaning that I treat every 30 days and every fresh soil. It's part of my routine like mixing soil.
Gnatrol is available in smaller amounts for around $20 on ebay. That's where I get mine and always get 1-2 day service.
Smiley
Gnatrol is the same active ingredient as the dunks- BT-i. Can't imagine how it would have a different effect- maybe because it's water soluble? I have used the Gnatrol in the past, and it is quite effective, but relatively expensive; which is why I'm giving the dunks a go.
Anyhoo, as far as the dunks go, and this may have been mentioned (I can honestly say I didn't read every page), but I was told by my hydro shop owner that he grates the things on the fine part of a cheese grater, and then sprinkles them on top of the pots- seemed pretty brilliant to me!
And, I must say, I have had no serious fungus gnat infestations since I started using an inch of sand on top of my pots- there are always a few around, but nothing serious. Yes, it does keep the pots wet longer (which can be a good thing- mulch, anyone?) Just recently, I didn't put any sand on a new batch of mothers I made, and I haven't seen a fungus gnat infestation this bad in literally years.
FK
Hey what's up Finest kind 
Yeah same active ingredient
Dunks have BTi in them, just not a lot. It's held in suspension with a binder (vermiculite I think) and meant to sit in standing water and give off small amounts of BT over time. That said, even if you crumble them up it still isn't as much active ingredient to the rootzone.
So keeping bugs away from standing water use dunks. I have for 12 years on top of my swimming pool winter cover until I open it in the spring. I used dunks in my reservoir for 2 years and still had gnats until I got the gnatrol.
Gnatrol is for the horticulture and nursery business. It gets a higher concentration of bacillus to the rootzone where the larvae are active. It's not a higher percentage of BTI than dunks just more of it and concentrated in soluble.
A card of dunks is $10-16 for 6 and gnatrol is $25 for the small container. You are not getting the same amount of BTI, so in my opinion, dunks aren't cheaper and aren't as effective.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Smiley
Ohh yeah, gnatrol isn't persisting. I think I read somewhere that it's all pooped out in the root zone in 4 days but I cant find the article.
I'll keep lokking
Yeah same active ingredient
Dunks have BTi in them, just not a lot. It's held in suspension with a binder (vermiculite I think) and meant to sit in standing water and give off small amounts of BT over time. That said, even if you crumble them up it still isn't as much active ingredient to the rootzone.
So keeping bugs away from standing water use dunks. I have for 12 years on top of my swimming pool winter cover until I open it in the spring. I used dunks in my reservoir for 2 years and still had gnats until I got the gnatrol.
Gnatrol is for the horticulture and nursery business. It gets a higher concentration of bacillus to the rootzone where the larvae are active. It's not a higher percentage of BTI than dunks just more of it and concentrated in soluble.
A card of dunks is $10-16 for 6 and gnatrol is $25 for the small container. You are not getting the same amount of BTI, so in my opinion, dunks aren't cheaper and aren't as effective.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Smiley
Ohh yeah, gnatrol isn't persisting. I think I read somewhere that it's all pooped out in the root zone in 4 days but I cant find the article.
I'll keep lokking
B
BrnCow
For hydro, use a fine threaded closed bag to put it in before you add it to the res...or the dunks will come apart in little chunks and plug your mister nozzles...my friends says to ask him how he knows...lol
FinestKind
Member
Hey what's up Finest kind
Yeah same active ingredient
Dunks have BTi in them, just not a lot. It's held in suspension with a binder (vermiculite I think) and meant to sit in standing water and give off small amounts of BT over time. That said, even if you crumble them up it still isn't as much active ingredient to the rootzone.
So keeping bugs away from standing water use dunks. I have for 12 years on top of my swimming pool winter cover until I open it in the spring. I used dunks in my reservoir for 2 years and still had gnats until I got the gnatrol.
Gnatrol is for the horticulture and nursery business. It gets a higher concentration of bacillus to the rootzone where the larvae are active. It's not a higher percentage of BTI than dunks just more of it and concentrated in soluble.
A card of dunks is $10-16 for 6 and gnatrol is $25 for the small container. You are not getting the same amount of BTI, so in my opinion, dunks aren't cheaper and aren't as effective.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Smiley
Ohh yeah, gnatrol isn't persisting. I think I read somewhere that it's all pooped out in the root zone in 4 days but I cant find the article.
I'll keep lokking
EBay... brilliant. About 1/2 the price of buying your own container of it, as some smart fellows bought a bulk container and then dole it out in smaller amounts. Got 145 grams for $25, shipping included.
The only reference to it I found in the product label and msds was this quote
Here's a link to their page on gnatrol with the literature
HTH
Smiley
BTW on the subject of ordering from ebay on units from 5oz to 16oz you end up paying about $4.60 per ounce. When you get to the 16lb tub the price drops dramatically to $1.60 an ounce. So if you know some people that would split an order you can really save.
Here's a link to their page on gnatrol with the literature
HTH
Smiley
BTW on the subject of ordering from ebay on units from 5oz to 16oz you end up paying about $4.60 per ounce. When you get to the 16lb tub the price drops dramatically to $1.60 an ounce. So if you know some people that would split an order you can really save.
hey guys, this thread is so awesome. Been growing for about 2 years now, and am using coco with perlite. I have been seeing a ton of little black bugs swarming around my lights and in my room...but I didn't really think anything of it. That was like 4 to 6 months ago.
NOW....I have had a few plants wither and produce almost no flowers...I was thinking it was my interruption in my lights cycle which was approx 4 weeks ago...but it was only for a few days. Most plants were not affected like that, but I did have a few plants that were not producing...and just not healthy looking at all.
I am pretty sure now that I have a fungus gnat infestation...as they look like tiny little mosquitoes. I am obviously not going to reuse my coco...and I am dead set on gnatrol...so my question is..
Every single plant in my garden gets gnatrol..regardless of the stage of growth, another words...can I put this stuff in flowering plants(5 weeks or so)....??
Also...do you recommend sterilizing the grow area...as I grow in tents..? What about the surrounding areas? how would I go about sterilizing the area? Is it even needed with fungus gnats?
Thanks a bunch
TPM
NOW....I have had a few plants wither and produce almost no flowers...I was thinking it was my interruption in my lights cycle which was approx 4 weeks ago...but it was only for a few days. Most plants were not affected like that, but I did have a few plants that were not producing...and just not healthy looking at all.
I am pretty sure now that I have a fungus gnat infestation...as they look like tiny little mosquitoes. I am obviously not going to reuse my coco...and I am dead set on gnatrol...so my question is..
Every single plant in my garden gets gnatrol..regardless of the stage of growth, another words...can I put this stuff in flowering plants(5 weeks or so)....??
Also...do you recommend sterilizing the grow area...as I grow in tents..? What about the surrounding areas? how would I go about sterilizing the area? Is it even needed with fungus gnats?
Thanks a bunch
TPM
I tried dunks before and had some success.
I am now using Coco and wanted to try something else, so I got a bottle of GoGnats, and my question is...Am I able to use this with my regular feeding? Or should I just do water and Gognats, minus my nutes and rotate the treatments between regular feedings?
And what are people who are using it, using per gallon?
I am now using Coco and wanted to try something else, so I got a bottle of GoGnats, and my question is...Am I able to use this with my regular feeding? Or should I just do water and Gognats, minus my nutes and rotate the treatments between regular feedings?
And what are people who are using it, using per gallon?
Hey Everybody! 
I was in an all out WAR with fungus gnats (FG) after starting my current indoor garden. So, I thought I'd stop in here and share my experiences with you guys since your help has enable me to gain a small victory over these annoying little pests.
My current batch of organic soil (LC #1 /w dry ferts) was infested with FG after mixing and sitting in the garage waiting for use. I've experienced them before, but only in limited numbers and never really considered them more than a minor nuisance. This time they swarmed to an overwhelming number in the first two weeks of the cycle! I'm talking THOUSANDS! I didn't even want to open the tent and look at the girls. Bad, very BAD. So, I came here to look for assistance and found this thread.
I think the root of the problem is probably related to cooler temperatures that have kept the soil moist for longer than usual and storing the soil in the garage (no way around that).
Also with this round I began ammending with mycorrhizal fungi when transplanting. Maybe the increased fungal growth could have given them more food and helped them reproduce out of control. Has anyone else noticed an association between mycorrhizae ammendments and FG infestations?
Initially, I crushed up two Dunks and sprinkled them equally over my 3 gal pots and worked them into the first inch or two of the soil. I then watered them in and waited. NOTHING HAPPENED
for over three weeks! At that point I was unsure how to proceed, should I add more Dunk?, submerge the pots in Dunk infused water? Try some other product that was recommended here? I finally decided to use the KISS method and just wait for the soil to dry out, knowing that they need a moist medium to do their thing. I let 'em dry until the plants started looking slightly limp, not droopy really, just listless. I prepared for this watering by bubbling a half a dunk in a 5gal bucket of dechlorinated water for about a week. In the mean time I put out a bunch of homemade yellow sticky traps to get as many of the fliers as possible.
I gave them each a good soaking with the BTi water and waited. Finally, at about 6 weeks into this war the tide has turned in my direction. I still have a few flies buzz around if I shake the plants, but NOTHING like it was a few weeks back.
I plan to include the Dunk infused water as part of my regular regimen. I am a little concerned about the effect the BTi may have on the microbial life in my EWC tea with molasses that I usually use for watering. Does anyone know if the BTi will interfere with the normal herd?Im also planning to pretreat my next round with Dunk ammended soil on the to top and bottom two inches of the soil in the pots (they were having a little orgy on the bottom too, running in and out of the drain holes).
Anyway, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and especially to lolagirl for starting it up. If I have any new experiences with these guys be sure I'll come here to look for an answer and then share my experiences.
Thanks,
Rock
I was in an all out WAR with fungus gnats (FG) after starting my current indoor garden. So, I thought I'd stop in here and share my experiences with you guys since your help has enable me to gain a small victory over these annoying little pests.
My current batch of organic soil (LC #1 /w dry ferts) was infested with FG after mixing and sitting in the garage waiting for use. I've experienced them before, but only in limited numbers and never really considered them more than a minor nuisance. This time they swarmed to an overwhelming number in the first two weeks of the cycle! I'm talking THOUSANDS! I didn't even want to open the tent and look at the girls. Bad, very BAD. So, I came here to look for assistance and found this thread.
I think the root of the problem is probably related to cooler temperatures that have kept the soil moist for longer than usual and storing the soil in the garage (no way around that).
Also with this round I began ammending with mycorrhizal fungi when transplanting. Maybe the increased fungal growth could have given them more food and helped them reproduce out of control. Has anyone else noticed an association between mycorrhizae ammendments and FG infestations?
Initially, I crushed up two Dunks and sprinkled them equally over my 3 gal pots and worked them into the first inch or two of the soil. I then watered them in and waited. NOTHING HAPPENED
for over three weeks! At that point I was unsure how to proceed, should I add more Dunk?, submerge the pots in Dunk infused water? Try some other product that was recommended here? I finally decided to use the KISS method and just wait for the soil to dry out, knowing that they need a moist medium to do their thing. I let 'em dry until the plants started looking slightly limp, not droopy really, just listless. I prepared for this watering by bubbling a half a dunk in a 5gal bucket of dechlorinated water for about a week. In the mean time I put out a bunch of homemade yellow sticky traps to get as many of the fliers as possible. I gave them each a good soaking with the BTi water and waited. Finally, at about 6 weeks into this war the tide has turned in my direction. I still have a few flies buzz around if I shake the plants, but NOTHING like it was a few weeks back.
I plan to include the Dunk infused water as part of my regular regimen. I am a little concerned about the effect the BTi may have on the microbial life in my EWC tea with molasses that I usually use for watering. Does anyone know if the BTi will interfere with the normal herd?Im also planning to pretreat my next round with Dunk ammended soil on the to top and bottom two inches of the soil in the pots (they were having a little orgy on the bottom too, running in and out of the drain holes).
Anyway, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and especially to lolagirl for starting it up. If I have any new experiences with these guys be sure I'll come here to look for an answer and then share my experiences.
Thanks,
Rock
I was growing fungus gnats in rockwool, really good crop, had to breathe with my mouth shut.
Azatrol drench killed 97%, but everything the solution touched is greasy now. The stuff feels like emusified 30 wt oil.
Too greasy for dirt I expect, but as flowthrough drench it did not wilt the plants and had high kill rate.
Azatrol drench killed 97%, but everything the solution touched is greasy now. The stuff feels like emusified 30 wt oil.
Too greasy for dirt I expect, but as flowthrough drench it did not wilt the plants and had high kill rate.
Jeeyah
Active member
I've had them for over 6 months. Dunks in res and crushed on top of pots. Sticky traps fill up quick.
You want to laugh. Today one flew in my ear. It got stuck. Couldn't get out buzzing every 4 seconds. Ran to the bathroom. After 4 q-tips I got it out. I was all baked. They have orgies on top of the dunks. Not kidding. I'm serious.
None of my local shops have ever heard of Gnatrol. If it's that much better, I'd consider ordering it.
You want to laugh. Today one flew in my ear. It got stuck. Couldn't get out buzzing every 4 seconds. Ran to the bathroom. After 4 q-tips I got it out. I was all baked. They have orgies on top of the dunks. Not kidding. I'm serious.
None of my local shops have ever heard of Gnatrol. If it's that much better, I'd consider ordering it.
Try "Mosquito Bits"...corn cob granules coated in BtI and made by the same folks that make the "dunk"....a few spoonfuls in each container at transplant works....as does a few spoonfuls in each water bucket. http://www.summitchemical.com/mosquito/mosquito-bits/
I buy 2 at a time on Amazon and get free shipping/no sales tax.
I buy 2 at a time on Amazon and get free shipping/no sales tax.
