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PoisonedDart
Member
Microbe-Lift BMC
Price:$18.00
Size: 2 oz
Product Description
Microbe-Lift BMC fully treats any area with standing water that serves as a breeding ground for mosquitos. It consists of natural bacteria that are toxic to mosquito larva, killing mosquito populations at their source. Because these bacteria are only toxic to the target pest, they pose no danger to fish, pets, humans, or vegetation. It fully penetrates the entire depth of the water treated, and it has no negative effects on the aesthetics of the areas in which it's used. One teaspoon treats 540 square feet of water.
Price:$18.00
Size: 2 oz
Product Description
Microbe-Lift BMC fully treats any area with standing water that serves as a breeding ground for mosquitos. It consists of natural bacteria that are toxic to mosquito larva, killing mosquito populations at their source. Because these bacteria are only toxic to the target pest, they pose no danger to fish, pets, humans, or vegetation. It fully penetrates the entire depth of the water treated, and it has no negative effects on the aesthetics of the areas in which it's used. One teaspoon treats 540 square feet of water.
I hate fungus gnats and they will damage and eventually kill plants!
Nationwide
Member
Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that can effectively kill mosquito larvae present in water. It is one of many strains of Bacillus thuringiensis, each having unique toxicity characteristics. Bti is very specific for mosquitoes and black flies, and has some toxicity toward certain other dipterans (including midges). Bti is the primary material used for mosquito control because of its low toxicity to non-target species. Commercially available Bti strains are sold under the trade names Aquabac• , Teknar• , Bactimos• , and Vectobac• . When community mosquito control is needed to reduce mosquito-borne disease, the Department of Health favors use of larvicide applications to the breeding source of mosquitoes. Larvicides are more effective and less toxic than adult mosquito sprays, and the applications are unlikely to result in human exposure.
How does Bti work?
Bti spores that are eaten by mosquito larvae release toxins into the mosquito's gut, causing the larvae to stop eating and die (2). Bti is only effective against actively feeding larvae, and does not affect mosquito pupae or adults. More information on the mosquito life cycle may be found on USEPA's Larvicides for Mosquito Control Web page. Products that contain Bti are available in liquid, briquette (small block) and granular formulations. These formulations can be applied to water bodies by hand, with a sprayer, or aerially. Bti breaks down quickly in the environment and may need to be reapplied regularly to obtain adequate mosquito control. Depending on the formulation and environmental conditions, Bti may remain effective from 24 hours to over one month (5).
Where is Bti applied?
Bti may be applied to water bodies where mosquito larvae live. Since mosquitoes generally prefer to breed in standing water, typical locations where Bti may be used include stormwater retention ponds, catch basins and shallow areas of wetlands and lakes that have been identified as a problem source of mosquitoes. The Department of Ecology does not recommend application to most wetlands because natural predators in the ecosystem can control mosquito larvae. If mosquito control is needed, Bti or Bacillus sphaericus products are recommended due to their low toxicity to non-target organisms (5). Federal laws prohibit the application of Bti to reservoirs that contain drinking water (4).
Can I apply Bti to my property?
Some products that contain Bti, such as Mosquito Dunks• and Mosquito Bits• , are available for private residential use in Washington. If using these products, it is important to carefully follow the label instructions and to apply only to waters that will not drain off of the property (e.g., ornamental ponds or other closed systems). If water on private property is connected to or has the potential to reach surface waters of the state, then only a licensed pesticide applicator may apply the product. In addition, the property owner or the licensed pesticide applicator will likely have to obtain a NPDES permit from either the Department of Health or the Department of Ecology. More information about the permit process for aquatic mosquito control in Washington is available on the Department of Health's West Nile Virus, Aquatic Mosquito Control General Permit Web page.
For most residences a more effective way to control mosquito populations on your property is to reduce standing water where mosquitoes can breed. The Department of Health recommends taking the following steps to reduce mosquito habitat:
*
Empty any container that holds standing water» old tires, buckets, plastic covers and toys.
*
Change water in your birdbaths, fountains, wading pools and animal troughs at least twice a week.
*
Recycle unused containers that may collect water» bottles, cans, and buckets
*
Make sure roof gutters drain properly and clean gutters in the spring and fall.
*
Fix leaky outdoor faucets and sprinklers.
• The Department of Health also recommends limiting exposure to mosquitoes by wearing long sleeved clothing and using mosquito repellent products if you are in an area where you are likely to be bitten by mosquitoes.
Is Bti harmful to humans or pets?
No measurable health effects were seen in laboratory animals that ingested large concentrations of Bti. Cases involving human health effects following exposure to Bti are extremely rare. Direct exposure to Bti was shown to cause skin and eye irritation in some animals (3). Cases of eye and skin irritation in humans have also been reported following direct exposure with some Bacillus thuringiensis products (2). Pets are unlikely to experience health effects from exposure to Bti based on the results from numerous studies involving laboratory animals.
Is Bti harmful to the environment?
Bti is nontoxic to mammals, birds, and fish. In laboratory studies, effects were only observed at concentrations much greater than what would occur following a typical application. Few studies, however, have closely examined potential long-term ecological impacts from Bti application. Some studies suggest that continuous application of Bti over a period of 2-3 years to wetlands may result in an overall decrease of biodiversity (3).
What precautions can I take to reduce my exposure to Bti?
Since Bti will generally be applied to areas that are inaccessible to the public, exposure is unlikely. Common sense steps, such as avoiding areas during scheduled larvicide applications, will further reduce the chances for exposure. If applying Bti at home, carefully follow label directions and avoid direct contact of the product with eyes and skin. If irritation to eyes or skin occurs, rinse eyes with tap water and wash skin thoroughly with soap and water for 20 minutes. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention and report the incident to the Washington Poison Center at 1-800-222-1222 or the Washington State Department of Health, Pesticide Program at 1-888-586-9427.
Should I be concerned about other ingredients in Bti formulations?
Secondary or » inert» ingredients in pesticide formulations do not have to undergo the same stringent testing as active ingredients (i.e., Bti). Some strains of Bacillus thuringiensis have the potential to produce various toxins (exotoxins) that may exhibit toxic symptoms in mammals, however the manufacturing process includes monitoring to prevent these toxins from appearing in products (4). Tests have not shown commercial formulations of Bti larvicides to be more toxic than the isolated active compound. However, it is possible that some individuals may be more sensitive to certain other ingredients. For this reason, the Department of Health recommends that people minimize direct exposure to Bti as much as possible. The USEPA's Inert Ingredients in Pesticide Products Web page has more information on inert ingredients in pesticides.
How does Bti work?
Bti spores that are eaten by mosquito larvae release toxins into the mosquito's gut, causing the larvae to stop eating and die (2). Bti is only effective against actively feeding larvae, and does not affect mosquito pupae or adults. More information on the mosquito life cycle may be found on USEPA's Larvicides for Mosquito Control Web page. Products that contain Bti are available in liquid, briquette (small block) and granular formulations. These formulations can be applied to water bodies by hand, with a sprayer, or aerially. Bti breaks down quickly in the environment and may need to be reapplied regularly to obtain adequate mosquito control. Depending on the formulation and environmental conditions, Bti may remain effective from 24 hours to over one month (5).
Where is Bti applied?
Bti may be applied to water bodies where mosquito larvae live. Since mosquitoes generally prefer to breed in standing water, typical locations where Bti may be used include stormwater retention ponds, catch basins and shallow areas of wetlands and lakes that have been identified as a problem source of mosquitoes. The Department of Ecology does not recommend application to most wetlands because natural predators in the ecosystem can control mosquito larvae. If mosquito control is needed, Bti or Bacillus sphaericus products are recommended due to their low toxicity to non-target organisms (5). Federal laws prohibit the application of Bti to reservoirs that contain drinking water (4).
Can I apply Bti to my property?
Some products that contain Bti, such as Mosquito Dunks• and Mosquito Bits• , are available for private residential use in Washington. If using these products, it is important to carefully follow the label instructions and to apply only to waters that will not drain off of the property (e.g., ornamental ponds or other closed systems). If water on private property is connected to or has the potential to reach surface waters of the state, then only a licensed pesticide applicator may apply the product. In addition, the property owner or the licensed pesticide applicator will likely have to obtain a NPDES permit from either the Department of Health or the Department of Ecology. More information about the permit process for aquatic mosquito control in Washington is available on the Department of Health's West Nile Virus, Aquatic Mosquito Control General Permit Web page.
For most residences a more effective way to control mosquito populations on your property is to reduce standing water where mosquitoes can breed. The Department of Health recommends taking the following steps to reduce mosquito habitat:
*
Empty any container that holds standing water» old tires, buckets, plastic covers and toys.
*
Change water in your birdbaths, fountains, wading pools and animal troughs at least twice a week.
*
Recycle unused containers that may collect water» bottles, cans, and buckets
*
Make sure roof gutters drain properly and clean gutters in the spring and fall.
*
Fix leaky outdoor faucets and sprinklers.
• The Department of Health also recommends limiting exposure to mosquitoes by wearing long sleeved clothing and using mosquito repellent products if you are in an area where you are likely to be bitten by mosquitoes.
Is Bti harmful to humans or pets?
No measurable health effects were seen in laboratory animals that ingested large concentrations of Bti. Cases involving human health effects following exposure to Bti are extremely rare. Direct exposure to Bti was shown to cause skin and eye irritation in some animals (3). Cases of eye and skin irritation in humans have also been reported following direct exposure with some Bacillus thuringiensis products (2). Pets are unlikely to experience health effects from exposure to Bti based on the results from numerous studies involving laboratory animals.
Is Bti harmful to the environment?
Bti is nontoxic to mammals, birds, and fish. In laboratory studies, effects were only observed at concentrations much greater than what would occur following a typical application. Few studies, however, have closely examined potential long-term ecological impacts from Bti application. Some studies suggest that continuous application of Bti over a period of 2-3 years to wetlands may result in an overall decrease of biodiversity (3).
What precautions can I take to reduce my exposure to Bti?
Since Bti will generally be applied to areas that are inaccessible to the public, exposure is unlikely. Common sense steps, such as avoiding areas during scheduled larvicide applications, will further reduce the chances for exposure. If applying Bti at home, carefully follow label directions and avoid direct contact of the product with eyes and skin. If irritation to eyes or skin occurs, rinse eyes with tap water and wash skin thoroughly with soap and water for 20 minutes. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention and report the incident to the Washington Poison Center at 1-800-222-1222 or the Washington State Department of Health, Pesticide Program at 1-888-586-9427.
Should I be concerned about other ingredients in Bti formulations?
Secondary or » inert» ingredients in pesticide formulations do not have to undergo the same stringent testing as active ingredients (i.e., Bti). Some strains of Bacillus thuringiensis have the potential to produce various toxins (exotoxins) that may exhibit toxic symptoms in mammals, however the manufacturing process includes monitoring to prevent these toxins from appearing in products (4). Tests have not shown commercial formulations of Bti larvicides to be more toxic than the isolated active compound. However, it is possible that some individuals may be more sensitive to certain other ingredients. For this reason, the Department of Health recommends that people minimize direct exposure to Bti as much as possible. The USEPA's Inert Ingredients in Pesticide Products Web page has more information on inert ingredients in pesticides.
Nationwide
Member
Thought I would post this as it was a good read about the stuff.....hope it wasnt to big or against the rules to post stuff this big.....kindof like flooding in IRC
Nationwide
Nationwide
S
stickey fingers
3 CENTS
3 CENTS
IMD ! BAYER FRUIT AND VEG, HAS IMD IN IT.I HAVE USED IT WITH GOOD RESULTS, AND HAS HELPED A LOT, I BELIVE I HAD ROOT APHIDS AND FUNGUS NATS, I CAN DEAL WITH FUNGUS NATS, I BELIVE THE ROOT APHIDS WILL KILL YOURE PLANTS, SINCE I HAVE USED BAYER,MY PLANTS HEALTH HAS RETURNED AND MY HOUSE HAS LESS FLYING BUGS. I THINK IMD HAS BEEN USED IN TABACO FOR MANY YEARS, GOOD LUCK EVERY ONE !
SPECILAL THANKS, GP,BOG,OJD,REZ
RIP DR JAY
3 CENTS
IMD ! BAYER FRUIT AND VEG, HAS IMD IN IT.I HAVE USED IT WITH GOOD RESULTS, AND HAS HELPED A LOT, I BELIVE I HAD ROOT APHIDS AND FUNGUS NATS, I CAN DEAL WITH FUNGUS NATS, I BELIVE THE ROOT APHIDS WILL KILL YOURE PLANTS, SINCE I HAVE USED BAYER,MY PLANTS HEALTH HAS RETURNED AND MY HOUSE HAS LESS FLYING BUGS. I THINK IMD HAS BEEN USED IN TABACO FOR MANY YEARS, GOOD LUCK EVERY ONE !SPECILAL THANKS, GP,BOG,OJD,REZ
RIP DR JAY
mk6
Active member
1st - dude, whats with all the caps??? ug!
I too had both fugas nats and root aphids and battled them for a long long long time the root aphids were the worst (^ I agree) and I used a lot of products but the main killier was the dunks - for real, and I still use-m, and still Im 100% bug free and loving it!!!
my buddy just gifted me 6 xj 13's, all in ff soil and as soon as I toched them - the fucking bugs, OMG (friends right... lol) no biggy' I transplanted them into some recycled coco from 2 grows ago, I soak a dunk in the bucket and just watered them, thats all, and in less then a 2 days no bugs. btw they are quartined, kept out of the flower n veg room as always, just to make sure, but day 3 on them an still now bugs!
I too had both fugas nats and root aphids and battled them for a long long long time the root aphids were the worst (^ I agree) and I used a lot of products but the main killier was the dunks - for real, and I still use-m, and still Im 100% bug free and loving it!!!
my buddy just gifted me 6 xj 13's, all in ff soil and as soon as I toched them - the fucking bugs, OMG (friends right... lol) no biggy' I transplanted them into some recycled coco from 2 grows ago, I soak a dunk in the bucket and just watered them, thats all, and in less then a 2 days no bugs. btw they are quartined, kept out of the flower n veg room as always, just to make sure, but day 3 on them an still now bugs!
FinestKind
Member
So, I've had fungus gnats for about 3 years... or should I say, had fungus gnats for about 3 years, as I have (finally) gotten rid of the little bastards once and for all!
I had tried GoGnats! (junk), mosquito dunks and Gnatrol (both effective, but they came back in each case...)
First off, I had a very serious infestation this past winter. The first thing I did was cover each of my pots with about an inch of sand, and immediately noticed a reduction in the numbers. They were still there, but dramatically fewer... enough to get me through the harvest without ripping my hair out, anyway.
The next go around, they were still present, so I again covered my pots with the sand, and then I let off an Doktor Doom total release fogger (pyrethrin based)... I have done this before, but this time I left all of my circulating fans running (not the exhaust, obviously)... and there was not a gnat to be found.
Two weeks later, I let off another one just to "break the life cycle" if there were any new hatchlings... going on 5 weeks now and I haven't seen a one! Total investment: $16 for the Dr. Dooms, about $10 for the sand. And if they come back, I'll nuke 'em again.
This stuff is also effective on just about everything else that may be in your garden, as well... I'm budgeting for 2 cans with every new cycle, just to start off with a "clean slate"... do be careful not to release the can directly onto the foliage, as it does burn it a bit, although not enough to even slow them down.
FK
I had tried GoGnats! (junk), mosquito dunks and Gnatrol (both effective, but they came back in each case...)
First off, I had a very serious infestation this past winter. The first thing I did was cover each of my pots with about an inch of sand, and immediately noticed a reduction in the numbers. They were still there, but dramatically fewer... enough to get me through the harvest without ripping my hair out, anyway.
The next go around, they were still present, so I again covered my pots with the sand, and then I let off an Doktor Doom total release fogger (pyrethrin based)... I have done this before, but this time I left all of my circulating fans running (not the exhaust, obviously)... and there was not a gnat to be found.
Two weeks later, I let off another one just to "break the life cycle" if there were any new hatchlings... going on 5 weeks now and I haven't seen a one! Total investment: $16 for the Dr. Dooms, about $10 for the sand. And if they come back, I'll nuke 'em again.
This stuff is also effective on just about everything else that may be in your garden, as well... I'm budgeting for 2 cans with every new cycle, just to start off with a "clean slate"... do be careful not to release the can directly onto the foliage, as it does burn it a bit, although not enough to even slow them down.
FK
Headsmcgee1
Member
Headsmcgee1
Member
IMO The only aphid I see is the left bug in the 3rd picture. It has a distinct aphid shape and does not have a seperated thorax like each of the other bugs. Some of those others look like the "thicker" fungus gnats I had and mistakenly thought they were root aphids.
Hope that helps. I of course wiped whatever it was out with one bayer treatment. Good luck!
Headsmcgee1
Member
thanks Selfhemployed,
I used bayer advanced complete insecticide today. I have coco in 7 gallon pots and root drenched them at a rate of 10ml/gallon. Hoping it wipes out whatever I have.
I used bayer advanced complete insecticide today. I have coco in 7 gallon pots and root drenched them at a rate of 10ml/gallon. Hoping it wipes out whatever I have.
reckon
Member
it's just bent into that shape, it's NOT a root aphid, the thorax is just twisted so you can't see the division
look at the legs and wings in the pics, those are all chronomids: or gnats.
sorry to disagree but pic #3 is just two gnats, one is twisted into a "u" shape.
but if you are using Bayer (imidacloprid) it doesn't matter, it'll wipe both of em out
got a big gnat problem which I'm about to deal with.
any british gardeners used bayer garden provado ultimate bug killer which has imid in it? I don't know if its the same strength as in the US. It comes as a spray but I would also like to apply it as a soil drench. anyone done this and know what measures I should use? It says 20ml per litre for spraying - reckon it would be the same for a drench?
am also waiting for gnat off which my local grow shop has run out of (same as gnatrol) and I can't get any before the weekend. in the meantime am gonna put some sticky traps out and an inch of perlite at the top of each pot and water from the bottom only. any further aqdvice would be appreciated
any british gardeners used bayer garden provado ultimate bug killer which has imid in it? I don't know if its the same strength as in the US. It comes as a spray but I would also like to apply it as a soil drench. anyone done this and know what measures I should use? It says 20ml per litre for spraying - reckon it would be the same for a drench?
am also waiting for gnat off which my local grow shop has run out of (same as gnatrol) and I can't get any before the weekend. in the meantime am gonna put some sticky traps out and an inch of perlite at the top of each pot and water from the bottom only. any further aqdvice would be appreciated
Headsmcgee1
Member
Thanks Reckon and Mk6 for the good info.
Just an update, I feed my half plants bayer advanced at 10ml/gallon yesterday. Was not quite sure on the amount to give my palnts since I am doing coco in 7 gallon pots. If things work out (as of now the bayer looks to be working) I will be adding to my other half.
Just an update, I feed my half plants bayer advanced at 10ml/gallon yesterday. Was not quite sure on the amount to give my palnts since I am doing coco in 7 gallon pots. If things work out (as of now the bayer looks to be working) I will be adding to my other half.
reckon
Member
not sure of your concentration
if it says to mix 20ml PER LITER (about 4 teaspoons per QUART), it must be weaker than our USA stuff.
I used 10ml per GALLON (2 teaspoons), and I filled a small bucket with it, and then dunked the entire pot in, submerging the stem by an inch, and let each plant sit in the soak for 5 minutes, or until I saw no more bubbles, and then drained off the excess.
took 3 applications to finally be rid of the little devils.
tito libowitz
New member
i've been using the mosquito dunks with no results! .... i'm bout to go to the shop tomorrow and pick up some heavy duty gnat ass kicker
i'm infested
i'm infested
Bluenose510
Member
great info lolagal on my way to get some now, tell how it went.
