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Germinated seeds won't sprout

AliceDAnon

Active member
Popped two freebies. Germinated them regularly and got a half inch taproot before planting into Jiffy Pellets.

I haven't had either sprout from the Jiffy in over two days. How long does it usually take? Seems longer than usual.

Do you keep light on when waiting for the germinated seed to sprout from soil?
 

Jerry_Garcia

Well-known member
Hi Alice,

When I was using Jiffy Pellets I would just try to mimic what they would be getting outside in the Spring. Keep moist, don’t plant too deep, go ahead and start an 18/6 light regimen and be patient.

Personally, I stopped using pellets since I just wasn’t happy with the percentage success I was getting. It was certainly user error to some extent but since I started putting germinated seeds directly into soil, I don’t recall not having one sprout.

Jerry
 

Growenhaft

Active member
you germinated them outside the soil... and when the root had a good inch you buried the nut?

if you do this you subvert the nature of germination. you take the given curve and the associated tensile forces to get to the surface.
if the root is that long then it has fired its powder to catapult the nut upwards.

first the nut opens... the tip of the root first grows upwards... the root notices via the sensory system of the tip that the oxygen content is increasing... before it grows out at the top, the root curves sharply downwards... in the process it develops the root has enormous tensile forces... this separates the nut shell from the seedling and the seedling sees the light of day.

if your nut has not absorbed enough moisture... or the medium is very fluffy... or the temperature is too high... the shell may still be on the seedling... like a crash helmet. better not rip it off yourself... better put a small piece of wet kitchen towel on it.. if the nut shell is wet enough, it will slide down by itself.

if you germinate... which is really unnecessary and usually stands in the way of healthy and rapid development... then never wait until the root is long... plant the nuts as soon as they have opened and 1 mm of the root tip is sticking out . because only then can germination function as intended by nature. germination works like a pole vaulter in our plant... just like you did, you take the pole away from your plant.

it is better to carefully dig it up from above... try to see if the nut can be easily detached... if not, let it work with a damp cloth until the shell can be easily removed... so that the cotyledons finally get some light.. .to produce new energy. be careful when digging around that you don't dig up the root... very carefully from above until you get to the nut. much luck.
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
you germinated them outside the soil... and when the root had a good inch you buried the nut?

if you do this you subvert the nature of germination. you take the given curve and the associated tensile forces to get to the surface.
if the root is that long then it has fired its powder to catapult the nut upwards.

first the nut opens... the tip of the root first grows upwards... the root notices via the sensory system of the tip that the oxygen content is increasing... before it grows out at the top, the root curves sharply downwards... in the process it develops the root has enormous tensile forces... this separates the nut shell from the seedling and the seedling sees the light of day.

if your nut has not absorbed enough moisture... or the medium is very fluffy... or the temperature is too high... the shell may still be on the seedling... like a crash helmet. better not rip it off yourself... better put a small piece of wet kitchen towel on it.. if the nut shell is wet enough, it will slide down by itself.

if you germinate... which is really unnecessary and usually stands in the way of healthy and rapid development... then never wait until the root is long... plant the nuts as soon as they have opened and 1 mm of the root tip is sticking out . because only then can germination function as intended by nature. germination works like a pole vaulter in our plant... just like you did, you take the pole away from your plant.

it is better to carefully dig it up from above... try to see if the nut can be easily detached... if not, let it work with a damp cloth until the shell can be easily removed... so that the cotyledons finally get some light.. .to produce new energy. be careful when digging around that you don't dig up the root... very carefully from above until you get to the nut. much luck.
Radical was about half an inch long.

By nut, you mean the seed casing?
 

iStruggle

Active member
you germinated them outside the soil... and when the root had a good inch you buried the nut?

if you do this you subvert the nature of germination. you take the given curve and the associated tensile forces to get to the surface.
if the root is that long then it has fired its powder to catapult the nut upwards.

first the nut opens... the tip of the root first grows upwards... the root notices via the sensory system of the tip that the oxygen content is increasing... before it grows out at the top, the root curves sharply downwards... in the process it develops the root has enormous tensile forces... this separates the nut shell from the seedling and the seedling sees the light of day.

if your nut has not absorbed enough moisture... or the medium is very fluffy... or the temperature is too high... the shell may still be on the seedling... like a crash helmet. better not rip it off yourself... better put a small piece of wet kitchen towel on it.. if the nut shell is wet enough, it will slide down by itself.

if you germinate... which is really unnecessary and usually stands in the way of healthy and rapid development... then never wait until the root is long... plant the nuts as soon as they have opened and 1 mm of the root tip is sticking out . because only then can germination function as intended by nature. germination works like a pole vaulter in our plant... just like you did, you take the pole away from your plant.

it is better to carefully dig it up from above... try to see if the nut can be easily detached... if not, let it work with a damp cloth until the shell can be easily removed... so that the cotyledons finally get some light.. .to produce new energy. be careful when digging around that you don't dig up the root... very carefully from above until you get to the nut. much luck.
Cant say i agree here. Once the seed pops and i have a tail its 100% success rate. You have your way of doing it and thats fine, but youre saying proven methods are wrong and unnecessary.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I had issues using my soil to sprout tailed seeds. Fox farm seed starter is fluffier and the seed head has an easier time poking through. I put my soil in the bottom half of the cup, fluffy starter in the top half.

I lose tailed seeds, not all make sprouts.
 

Growenhaft

Active member
Cant say i agree here. Once the seed pops and i have a tail its 100% success rate. You have your way of doing it and thats fine, but youre saying proven methods are wrong and unnecessary.

can you show me where it has proven useful to let a long root grow before planting?

if you let them germinate in a damp cloth... or whatever... bury them as soon as they open... that's how you'll learn. but this method has a very bad hack.... our plants are dark germinators. this means that with the first portion of light you already start photosynthesis... this is very disturbing for plants that are busy with the process of germination. Actually, germination should be complete by the time photosynthesis begins.

such plants lose an enormous amount of development speed... they grow more slowly over the next 10 days compared to a properly germinated plant.

i don't want to offend you... but this method is for beginners who are impatient... who think it's important to see the nut split open... but it's not... it interferes with germination... and slows down the process until the true 3rd pair of leaves forms. for thousands of years, plants have perfected the process of germination... it is the starting point of life. if you want to support your plants in this process... then make sure the medium has the right moisture content and the best climate values for temperature and humidity... you don't have to do more... anything else is a worse improvement. and just because a method is imitated by many amateurs out of ignorance... that doesn't mean that this method doesn't make professionals pull their hair out.
 

exoticrobotic

Well-known member
If you transplant them at that stage make sure you dont touch the root with your bare hands, use tweezers/card or something to handle them.

Make sure the hole you put them in is the same depth as the taproot's length so the seed shell is at the surface.

Your seed has used a lot of energy pushing that root out, it wants to find a base anchor to push its seed head above ground so the first leaves can photosynthesize.

If you bury them too deep they wont find that base anchor and hence may not make it.
 

iStruggle

Active member
can you show me where it has proven useful to let a long root grow before planting?

if you let them germinate in a damp cloth... or whatever... bury them as soon as they open... that's how you'll learn. but this method has a very bad hack.... our plants are dark germinators. this means that with the first portion of light you already start photosynthesis... this is very disturbing for plants that are busy with the process of germination. Actually, germination should be complete by the time photosynthesis begins.

such plants lose an enormous amount of development speed... they grow more slowly over the next 10 days compared to a properly germinated plant.

i don't want to offend you... but this method is for beginners who are impatient... who think it's important to see the nut split open... but it's not... it interferes with germination... and slows down the process until the true 3rd pair of leaves forms. for thousands of years, plants have perfected the process of germination... it is the starting point of life. if you want to support your plants in this process... then make sure the medium has the right moisture content and the best climate values for temperature and humidity... you don't have to do more... anything else is a worse improvement. and just because a method is imitated by many amateurs out of ignorance... that doesn't mean that this method doesn't make professionals pull their hair out.

Want to know how its useful? I know if a seed is a dud before i put it in dirt.

If the seed knew any difference between a paper towel and soil it wouldnt sprout.
 

Growenhaft

Active member
Want to know how its useful? I know if a seed is a dud before i put it in dirt.

If the seed knew any difference between a paper towel and soil it wouldnt sprout.
but he would... only his strategies don't work properly... you tamper with the seedling... you expose a dark germinator to light during germination... none of this kills your seedling... but it slows it down development process of the first 10 days.

if you don't believe that, we can do a competition... starting tonight... one picture a day... don't cheat... and see who has the better developed plant after 10 days... there I am open for.

every living creature... including plants... will develop strategies to get the best possible chances for themselves.
our plants have opted for epigeal germination. this is firmly anchored genetically and is subsequently part of the biorythm of germination.
Epigeal.png

one of the most important advantages of this type of seedling is... that while the taproot is building up the traction to get the cotyledons above the ground... the plant immediately anchors and gains stability... but most importantly the taproot when pulling downwards in the soil immediately comes into contact with fungi and bacteria in the medium and can enter into symbiosis... that makes a difference. the fact that with this type of germ the nut shell usually remains in the ground is another advantage that nature uses. but the most important thing is... the nut is protected from the light... in the critical phase of the opening of the gap... where they are still in the formation phase of the cotyledons, which are already photosynthetic.

and to be honest... if you germinate properly and have the right conditions ready... then you usually don't have any failures... if a little too much was prepared... what's the problem? and therefore, in order not to prepare too much, you prefer to give everyone worse conditions? this logic does not open for me.
 
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