Nonphixion
Active member
The way the C13'ers reinforced cabinets -- take a 1/4" thick piece of melamine and fasten it to the cabinet as a back wall -- with finishing nails.
-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Gen. Contractor/Handyman advice needed to reinforce gutted Mill's Pride type cabinet.
- Thread starter Vernal Equinox
- Start date
Vernal Equinox
Member
I think I could make this, but a few questions:
1) The toe kick measures out to be 22 1/2 in width, but the bottom is 22 3/4 wide? Also, if the kick stays 22 3/4 or under, the side panels are the only panels resting upon the kick/floor, right? The rear panel and front doors have to just line up and get screwed in (with no support of the kick underneath). Would it be better to widen the kick/floor to allow the heavy rear panel to rest upon the floor, then screw/glue it in the side and top panels?
2) I think I can make this with three sheets of 3/4 inch ply (or maybe even better wood) and one sheet of 1/2 inch ply. Can someone verify and give opinion of my estimate? I'm also lowering to 78" or so. What size and type of screws should I get...sheet metal screws? What size pilot hole? Is Gorilla Glue best for this application? I'm still wondering how wood clamps would be applied on some joints.
3) Best way to put together? I'm thinking do the kick, then build sides, top and bottom together face-down on floor, add the rear panel, then stand-up and attach this to the kick. (Triangles the best way to keep me square when screwing together on the floor?) I think I'll cut the bottom 18 inches of the door panel off first, and attach that separately to the front. This would gusset the front a bit, and make the doors lighter and easier to hang.
4) What other woods might you consider? this is going in a bedroom, so I'd like to make it nicer than plywood...something sanded and easy to paint, or stain even would look nicer I think.
Thanks everyone for the help given me in this thread, and awesome cut list, junior_grower!
junior_grower
Active member
Hey man
1- wood screws you will want 1 3/4 - 2"
2- for glue I would go with a good quality wood glue tightbond 3 Is a water proof(once dry) glue.
3- plywood comes in many woods. Good one side fir takes a nice stain and looks good. Maple etc can be found.
4-
the kick
-----------------------------
| | |
-----------------------------
It will be 48" across and 22 1/2 deep. The bottom rests entirely on the kick, the sides sit on top of the bottom. Make two L, with two off the strips. when placed as the outside ends the ls act as a way to attach the kick to the bottom and to brace it square.
Build the box first ,sides, bottom, top. Then square it up. To do so measure from corner to corner, and make sure both measurements are the same. Next attach the back. To assemble everything I would use glue, a small bead with minimal squeeze out. And screw it every 6" in sides and every 12" on back. Use a pre-drill bit, there are bits with a built in counter sink, but a standard 3/32 bit works for a number 8 wood screw.
The kick is the last piece to go on, and it should rest flush with the back, so the back will sit on the kick, as well as the bottom. Doors get put on last.
IF you want to stain it or paint it I suggest buying edge tape, its a wood veneer tape. Use a hot iron to press it on and a file to make it flush with the plywood. This is way over kill for a grow cabinet but doing the edges of the doors would give a nice finished touch.
As for clamps there is no need, the screws will hold it all together, until the glue sets. I suggest plywood because good one side will take a really nice stain and last a long time. They do make an exterior grade mdf called medex board, made to handle water and paints up nice.
You will need the 3 3/4 and 1- 1/2 back. Number one rule is measure twice and cut once. Take your time and lay it out. Its a nice project that would produce a box 10x stronger than the crap you buy. Make sure you use at least 3 hinges per door. Piano hing would work as well.
Vernal Equinox
Member
you're awesome, junior_grower. thanks. I'm excited to get this project started.
As per the cut list:
Cut list
48*81 x1 1/2 ply -back
3*48 x2 3/4 ply -toe kick front and back
3*21 x5 3/4 ply -toe kick sides, and support ribs
22 3/4 * 79 1/2 x2 3/4 ply -sides
22 3/4 * 48 x2 3/4 ply -top and bottom
23 7/8 * 81 x2 3/4 doors
bottom and sides are both 22 3/4 in deep, so there's no way the rear door can rest on the bottom unless it's made (the bottom) 1/2 in deeper to have room for the rear panel to rest upon it, right? that means the top and bottom need to be 23 1/4 inches. and if we keep the kick where it is a 22 1/2, then the floor and cab will overhang in the front by 3/4 inch.
Please explain this in more detail?
"Make two L, with two off the strips. when placed as the outside ends the ls act as a way to attach the kick to the bottom and to brace it square."
I checked that edge trim out...badass! Certainly it's worth doing.
Thanks
Vernal Equinox
Member
Bump!
junior_grower
Active member
You want the back door to rest on the bottom? then yes make the bottom larger by 1/2"
You want the finished kick 2"-3" shorter so there is room under the front lip just like kitchen cabinets.
As for the kick take two of the 21" long pieces and screw them length ways together. Do this 2X . You will now have two pieces 21" long but in the shape of an L.
These are the sides and top of the kick. once the front and back are attached the kick will have sides and two 3" wide strips on the top that ac as attachment points. Ill build a hick tomorrow with photos if need be.
You want the finished kick 2"-3" shorter so there is room under the front lip just like kitchen cabinets.
As for the kick take two of the 21" long pieces and screw them length ways together. Do this 2X . You will now have two pieces 21" long but in the shape of an L.
These are the sides and top of the kick. once the front and back are attached the kick will have sides and two 3" wide strips on the top that ac as attachment points. Ill build a hick tomorrow with photos if need be.
