ridomil is used on vegetable crops but I wouldn't smoke anything treated with it, although I suppose tobacco is a crop they have used it on and may still well. It can be used in potatoe crops as well. Truban will wipe out fungal growths in roots and stems but it is so nasty I would rather throw 10000 plants away rather than risk anyone smoking and part of a plant that had been treated with it.
-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Fusarium or verticillium?
- Thread starter TheOutlawTree
- Start date
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Lab test's confirmed fusarium in my vegging plants.
Ive tried bringing healthy teen's into the room from other places- immediately dousing them in rootshield and beneficial tea's... and plants are still getting infected within 1 week it seems. I even tested eagle 20 on 8 plants before bringing in room- to see if it was an effective preventative- and those also got infected.
I cleaned extremely thoroughly and even dressed up in a tyvek suit with respirator to spray 33% hydrogen peroxide on the tables, floors, reservoirs, equipment, and walls. I cleaned again with physan 20 and soaked all growing tools in physan 20 mixture.
I have all my outdoor clones in here that I had scrambled to find and paid a lot of money for these genetics. There goes my early start!
The only thing left to do is test my water source. I feel as though this house is so badly infected there is no chance of being successful. The plants must have been infected from spores in the air- or my water source.
The last round I was still able to get over 2lbs per light but It should have been at least 3. I predict about 30% loss in yield when dealing with this. Some of you guys say fusarium is no big deal- but damn its pretty persistant over here at this place- the spores must be in extremely high numbers.
Its easy for me to spot this pathogen now- It makes all the new growth a lighter shade of yellow and leaves taco/ twist / claw.
Some of the blue dream teen's and a couple GG#4 teens may or may not be infected yet- I guess ill give them another week and see if I can prevent it. maybe I could try a basal stem injection of eagle 20 as an experiment on one of the infected plants, but multiple botanists have told me once a plant has fusarium- theres no getting rid of it.
Im going to flower out some of these plants and move out of this house, its a sickening feeling not being able to grow healthy plants
Ive tried bringing healthy teen's into the room from other places- immediately dousing them in rootshield and beneficial tea's... and plants are still getting infected within 1 week it seems. I even tested eagle 20 on 8 plants before bringing in room- to see if it was an effective preventative- and those also got infected.
I cleaned extremely thoroughly and even dressed up in a tyvek suit with respirator to spray 33% hydrogen peroxide on the tables, floors, reservoirs, equipment, and walls. I cleaned again with physan 20 and soaked all growing tools in physan 20 mixture.
I have all my outdoor clones in here that I had scrambled to find and paid a lot of money for these genetics. There goes my early start!
The only thing left to do is test my water source. I feel as though this house is so badly infected there is no chance of being successful. The plants must have been infected from spores in the air- or my water source.
The last round I was still able to get over 2lbs per light but It should have been at least 3. I predict about 30% loss in yield when dealing with this. Some of you guys say fusarium is no big deal- but damn its pretty persistant over here at this place- the spores must be in extremely high numbers.
Its easy for me to spot this pathogen now- It makes all the new growth a lighter shade of yellow and leaves taco/ twist / claw.
Some of the blue dream teen's and a couple GG#4 teens may or may not be infected yet- I guess ill give them another week and see if I can prevent it. maybe I could try a basal stem injection of eagle 20 as an experiment on one of the infected plants, but multiple botanists have told me once a plant has fusarium- theres no getting rid of it.
Im going to flower out some of these plants and move out of this house, its a sickening feeling not being able to grow healthy plants
Last edited:
TheOutlawTree
Active member
papertrails
Member
my fusarium gives random duds. it makes leaves look burned up in later stages of flower, particular ones closest to lights. rootballs in coco are not like they once were. have found a couple of the duds with large cankers at base of stem. very dark divots. used to be at 95%ish cloning, now im like 30 percent, depending on strain. one strain gets a white mycelium on them in the dome, others will just bend over. even when some root, they just come right out of the rapid rooters like they had never rooted. the plants ive flowered that I consider a complete dud, have slower growth, branches go more sideways than up, very little trichome coverage, and they will even herm when they were previously very stable. all the things that were in the dud thread. but even the non-duds have the scorched leaves late flower, smaller yield than previous, but quality is still good.
been researching a lot, not sure I have found a systemic, curative remedy. i would just use this on some strains i cant lose! bring clean ones to diff spot.
ive louped 100x and i have no bugs. i don't even have a fungus gnat. nema.., i doubt it.
i have: physan, ogbiowar foliar pack, actinovate. physan booklet says(for fusarium) to dunk cuttings in the diluted mix, forget the rate. will this eliminate fus. completely or just hold it off so cuts will root without damping off?
will post links in a lil bit of some products and articles i found of interest
wish i could test my plant here in Colorado.. but i hear no places do. any places in cali take samples by mail? doubt it..
been researching a lot, not sure I have found a systemic, curative remedy. i would just use this on some strains i cant lose! bring clean ones to diff spot.
ive louped 100x and i have no bugs. i don't even have a fungus gnat. nema.., i doubt it.
i have: physan, ogbiowar foliar pack, actinovate. physan booklet says(for fusarium) to dunk cuttings in the diluted mix, forget the rate. will this eliminate fus. completely or just hold it off so cuts will root without damping off?
will post links in a lil bit of some products and articles i found of interest
wish i could test my plant here in Colorado.. but i hear no places do. any places in cali take samples by mail? doubt it..
Thanks for not poisoning people. There are people who just don't care. They want that cash, no matter what.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Hey bud, once your plant is infected with fusarium there is no getting rid of it. If you use an EZ cloner- get rid of it. Sharing once reservoir = 100% infected. The only thing we can do is try and prevent it. If there is a way to kill fusarium from our infected plants- I would love to know how!!
It does make leaves burn that are closest to light, it looks a lot like magnesium deficiency in my case.
I get charged 75$ for every sample I get tested for fusarium- and you have to kill the entire plant and send in stem and root ball to test for it.
I have 5 kilos of chitosan oligosaccharide so im going to try a couple large doses of that to see what kind of effects it has (if any). I have already used it at 1g a gallon twice in early veg. At this point its all about experimenting with different stuff.
papertrails
Member
the links:
http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ppj.2006.239.243
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0261219403002047
http://www.greenhousemag.com/gm0913-formidable-fusarium-disease.aspx
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r785100511.html
http://betterplants.basf.us/news-&-...ies/2013-fusarium-wilt-on-chrysanthemums.html
http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ppj.2006.239.243
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0261219403002047
http://www.greenhousemag.com/gm0913-formidable-fusarium-disease.aspx
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r785100511.html
http://betterplants.basf.us/news-&-...ies/2013-fusarium-wilt-on-chrysanthemums.html
i dont use it on any plant that is ever going to get consumed .i actually do care and im working with labs here to try to get more chems added tot the tests here in oregon. i use nothing outside of the safety recommendations listed for the products i use. ive used on moms when i had root rot issues once when experimenting with a new medium i wasnt used to. i looked, it treats fusarium. so if you have cuts you dont want to lose this would be a way to create clean genetic stock .
but if someone wants to demonize me and look for a way to fill in the blanks with made up bullshit from what i said, go to town. yall heard what i was saying. if you dont like chems ever, i respect that. i dont use them on plants that will be flowered.
i dont need to because i take measures to keep those plants safe. like keeping my moms clean by any means necessary. then i never have to use chems in a sprayer. i make a cup and treat baby clone moms.
keeps shit clean. nothing enters my room without quarantine and nuclear cleansing before entering. then moms are cut from that stock.
then in my consumable plants i treat with nothing at all except chitosan. healthy bug free girls all the time.
Here is a list of places to check in Colorado. You can call them and see if they do testing:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/cedirectory/countylist.cfm
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/02950.html
Meanwhile, the place in Cali I posted earlier accepts samples by mail. Not sure about the interstate implications, but you don't have to identify the samples. Soil and root/stem samples might be enough.
Fusarium fungi produce mycotoxins. These are what I believe causes dudding, just as toxins cause dudding in broad and cyclamen mites.
Mycotoxins are extremely dangerous to humans and animals. They are highly carcinogenic. If you have fusarium that is out of control, that you didn't catch early enough, or which your IPM didn't stop, I would think twice about messing around with it. Not worth exposing yourself to the mycotoxins, unless you are wearing full hazmet gear and respirators. Breathing this stuff in can be deadly. Personally, I would burn everything and disinfect the space, and start over, but that's just me. No amount of money is worth risking your health. I would never grow without using immune system boosters: salicylic acid (aspirin), humic & fulvic acids, chitinase, aloe powder, which contains SA and 150 other chemicals/enzymes.
i hear you. i wouldnt either. this is for saving moms only. i would then scrap em after i got a bunch of healthy cuts.
I wasn't pointing the finger at you at all, if that's what you thought or are implying. There are others, though.
this is where shit goes side ways. its about a little bit of knowledge being dangerous. you can give people the ability to safely clean their i grow up and itll get abused by people too lazy to learn. they throw that shit in the rez as a preventative. that is sad unnecessary and rude. i dont know how gross the stuff is because i havent needed to look up the safe harvest interval or the findings supporting those guidelines. moms only
apologies. i thought you were referring to me as i hadnt seen the other post.
You are in soil, correct? Just asking because soil is the original source of fusarium. Then once it spreads into your environment, spores are everywhere. Heat treating the room would probably be the only way to rid the premises in that situation. I understand it is easier said than done, especially in a large room/space. Are you using immune system boosters? SA, chitosan, aloe, humics & fulvics? It could also be that there are newer, more resistant strains brewing in Cali due to so many growers and so much clone trading/selling. Have you considered testing clones before bringing them into your space? Are others in your area having the same issues? Wondering if the DEA could be releasing weaponized fusarium, even though it is prohibited. From my reading, it's very difficult even for an experienced technician to positively identify the specific strain.
It seems like there is one plague after another out there. Mind numbing.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Hey retro- I did use soil for the last batch of clones I received, but I grow indoors with Coco. So other than the first 4x4 pot of soil- the media is coco. Usually I just use coco the entire time.
I tried heating my room and I got it to around 130 degrees- I saw a couple Gavita's shut off randomly when it was getting around 130, so I just shut everything off. I was scared of starting a fire.
I am using Chitosan, but haven't used anything else. I grow indoors at this location and I don't think any of the neighbors are growers.
I wouldn't doubt the DEA thing man.. They certainly liked to harass me when I lived on the east coast, part of the reason I moved here to be legal.
I tried heating my room and I got it to around 130 degrees- I saw a couple Gavita's shut off randomly when it was getting around 130, so I just shut everything off. I was scared of starting a fire.
I am using Chitosan, but haven't used anything else. I grow indoors at this location and I don't think any of the neighbors are growers.
I wouldn't doubt the DEA thing man.. They certainly liked to harass me when I lived on the east coast, part of the reason I moved here to be legal.
heat treatments all the way. theres nothing that can live through a 150 couple hours. however thats assuming you have non pourous surfaces, no unpainted wood etc, make your room totaly cleanable with a 10% bleach solution wipe down rag. do it often to dirty surfaces. think about starting and stopping your workday everyday wtih a clean dust free working station. think about health ccode laws for kitchens. those are good starting points. if you cant steralize it with a rag coat it in something that can be. i have a one part epoxy i sprayed the entire room with recently. it needed a new surface so i heat treated the room. power washed all surfaces washed and scrubbed with tsp. then after it dried we taped fixturres and sprayed the one part white epoxy paint twice. heat treated again. i felt that was about as thorough as i was going to get.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Im 90% sure im going to move out of this place after this round, Ide much rather grow outdoors and focus on doing greenhouse grow's in the winter instead of this insane electric bill with PGandE.
Its a matter of how to move without bringing this plague along with me to the next place.
Its a matter of how to move without bringing this plague along with me to the next place.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
That's whats up man! Talk about a laboratory. This fusarium thing has certainly changed the way ill grow for the rest of my life. I will admit I haven't been the cleanest grower for most my life. I never had any problems but I used to live in a place where it was -30 for weeks every winter. California is a completely different story!
im also opening every round with a heat treatment with plants in the room on inception of flowering as a preventative. no issues at the moment to speak of, i hope to stay the fool who foolishly wastes his time with these unnecessary precautions.
this has totally replaced my broadmite chem recommendation to folks who have the means to do it really reliably thoroughly plus other beneficial swarskis thanks to retro, hl45 and a few others.
as simple as it sounds you can cause wear and tear on your room in ways you may not have thought of.
i had a pvc hydro fitting fail later after it was done. pipes got soft in area close to the lights. i have also witnessed a cheap garden hose under city water pressure fail. that was actually a lil scary and a lot annoying. turn off and drain pressure from any lines if they cant be removed entirely and easily.turn of gas to co2 gennys duh. remove propane tanks. use a long remote tank hose that exits the room to a safe temperature zone if you need it to heat room. i have a ten foot hose with the regulator on the business end instead of the source end. you kinda have to to have good pressure.
be close by. get a temp gun to monitor places of concern like pipes etc.
dont get high the first time you try it.
but its actually really easy once you figure out what your room requires to get there and how long it takes.
this has totally replaced my broadmite chem recommendation to folks who have the means to do it really reliably thoroughly plus other beneficial swarskis thanks to retro, hl45 and a few others.
as simple as it sounds you can cause wear and tear on your room in ways you may not have thought of.
i had a pvc hydro fitting fail later after it was done. pipes got soft in area close to the lights. i have also witnessed a cheap garden hose under city water pressure fail. that was actually a lil scary and a lot annoying. turn off and drain pressure from any lines if they cant be removed entirely and easily.turn of gas to co2 gennys duh. remove propane tanks. use a long remote tank hose that exits the room to a safe temperature zone if you need it to heat room. i have a ten foot hose with the regulator on the business end instead of the source end. you kinda have to to have good pressure.
be close by. get a temp gun to monitor places of concern like pipes etc.
dont get high the first time you try it.
but its actually really easy once you figure out what your room requires to get there and how long it takes.
another thing i implememtned recently that i feel is an essential especially if you tun an ac. especially if you are maintaining proper vapor pressure deficit guidelines. the humidity in your room will make the inside of your ac blower look like the inside of a yealr old box of pizza, its sick and it diminishes the btu capacity of your unit. also all the air n your room is always passing through it all the time. one more oppurtunity to clean.
we put a pair of uv bulbs inside the ac blower units. all air passes through it. also the unit does not ever grow mold inside of it any more. its clean as a whistle all the time, kills mold spores and bacteria as they pass through the system.
pretty bad ass.
one more metal plate in your armor. ipm. heat treatments, plus a few other methods, plus careful interactions with other gardens are your best defenses and chems are your last ditch effort to save genetics and also a way to keep them off cloned samples to get genetics in safely. while using a quarantining process. keep proper growing parameters and growing healthy plants. correct night and day humidity control is a real game changer for me. i never paid attention to the outlying high and low spikes. controlling those and keeping a consistently dialed environment is like plant steroids ive found. my plants are looking so much better with 72% humidity lights on 60% humidity lights off. this requires tons of air movement. they are also looking way frostier healthier denser and just generally more vigorous. i swear ultra charged happy plants can power through a lot of mild exposures to pathogens, to some degree it is another piece in the ipm ime.
the chems stay around a lot longer and show up in alarming doses in the extracts when used at normal forum bro science doses in veg. not safe not cool and not acceptable as a common preventative type procedure to use on folks's recreational medicines. there are safer ways now to deal with outbreaks if they are built into your grow design. plan for outbreaks and have the time of works space that lends itself to routine sterilization well.
beats the fuck out of chems.
we put a pair of uv bulbs inside the ac blower units. all air passes through it. also the unit does not ever grow mold inside of it any more. its clean as a whistle all the time, kills mold spores and bacteria as they pass through the system.
pretty bad ass.
one more metal plate in your armor. ipm. heat treatments, plus a few other methods, plus careful interactions with other gardens are your best defenses and chems are your last ditch effort to save genetics and also a way to keep them off cloned samples to get genetics in safely. while using a quarantining process. keep proper growing parameters and growing healthy plants. correct night and day humidity control is a real game changer for me. i never paid attention to the outlying high and low spikes. controlling those and keeping a consistently dialed environment is like plant steroids ive found. my plants are looking so much better with 72% humidity lights on 60% humidity lights off. this requires tons of air movement. they are also looking way frostier healthier denser and just generally more vigorous. i swear ultra charged happy plants can power through a lot of mild exposures to pathogens, to some degree it is another piece in the ipm ime.
the chems stay around a lot longer and show up in alarming doses in the extracts when used at normal forum bro science doses in veg. not safe not cool and not acceptable as a common preventative type procedure to use on folks's recreational medicines. there are safer ways now to deal with outbreaks if they are built into your grow design. plan for outbreaks and have the time of works space that lends itself to routine sterilization well.
beats the fuck out of chems.
