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full melt dry sift tutorial/discussion

Daub Marley

Member
Contact with a conductor (aluminum frame) provides a pathway for this static (not moving) potential to be realized as current flowing through the conductor to ground/earth from the surface of the non-conductor hosting the charge on its surface.
That's correct, but the aluminum frame should only discharge the charged nylon that is touching the frame in that area.
If one were to neutralize the entire nylon screen they would need to touch every part of that screen with a conductor led to a ground. So it shouldn't matter what the frame is made of because the nylon will prevent almost all of the discharge minus the area immediately touching the frame. I think we are already on the same page, but it never hurts to run my understanding by someone else to see if it makes sense with their understanding. I probably worded it funny to begin with which led to the confusion.
:rtfo:
 

Daub Marley

Member
So here is my hypothesis so far.
When you brush it around everything (heads, stalks, and any other contaminants) will acquire a negative static charge. They are stuck to the screen but repelled away from each other. When you scrape over the material it causes it dislocate away from the screen and cling to the neutral paper. The heads being spherical get held in the holes and the stalks and stuff get stuck to the paper. It works to separate out the contaminants not the heads. I have also found that if you swipe it faster you can grab more of the contaminants, but more heads will also be mixed in.
LMK what you guys think.
 

mofeta

Member
Veteran
Hi Daub

It looks like you have made significant progress. If you persist you will definitely develop techniques useful to the community in general. Good job!
The heads being spherical get held in the holes and the stalks and stuff get stuck to the paper. It works to separate out the contaminants not the heads.

Very interesting. This is the opposite of time2shine's method though, no? Doesn't his method collect product on the scraper, not contaminant? Your idea about the heads sitting in the holes is the basis for a tek I worked with a few years back, which had limited success, but I learned a lot. I had a solid flat surface of various materials that actually touched the bottom of the screen, the screen sat on the material. Vibration made the spherical heads selectively fill the holes over the stalks etc. and the contaminants were easier to separate. Haven't worked with that one for a while, could be promising.

In analysis of time2shine's tek, or your new one, I would be interested in your take on the "journey of the electrons" involved:

  1. What is the charge, if any, on the screen(s) before starting the process? How did they acquire the charge? What polarity is the charge?
  2. When two aluminum framed nylon screens are stacked (allowing the conductive frames to touch), does manipulating/carding the raw green material on the top screen induce the accumulation of a charge on the lower screen that is receiving the kief?
  3. Do the heads falling from the top screen to the bottom screen carry a charge? If so, what polarity?
  4. In time2shine's original method, what polarity are the heads sticking to the parchment? What polarity is the parchment/card? Where did these charges come from?

There are other questions along this vein that I have, but I am very busy now and for the next week or so, and don't have time. I think you probably get my drift anyway.

Well, I have to go now, I will check back in again when I can. I am glad you are doing this. Just think, a year from now thousands of people may be routinely enjoying the finest resins, prepared without complicated equipment or the danger of incinerating themselves, because you decided you wanted it to be so.
 

Daub Marley

Member
Hi Daub
In analysis of time2shine's tek, or your new one, I would be interested in your take on the "journey of the electrons" involved:

What is the charge, if any, on the screen(s) before starting the process? How did they acquire the charge? What polarity is the charge?
I would imagine that there must be some charge just through the manufacturing process. You would have to wipe the entire surface with a conductive grounded wand to remove it. Nylon is high on the triboelectric list, so I would guess that it is a positive charge.
When two aluminum framed nylon screens are stacked (allowing the conductive frames to touch), does manipulating/carding the raw green material on the top screen induce the accumulation of a charge on the lower screen that is receiving the kief?
Not sure I know what you mean. The frame doesn't effect anything electrically though.
Do the heads falling from the top screen to the bottom screen carry a charge? If so, what polarity
Yeah they carry a negative charge.
In time2shine's original method, what polarity are the heads sticking to the parchment? What polarity is the parchment/card? Where did these charges come from?
The heads are negative in his method. The paper/parchment is neutral. The charge was built up when the heads were being brushed around by/on the nylon. The heads and other plant material acquired extra electrons.
 
So here is my hypothesis so far.
When you brush it around everything (heads, stalks, and any other contaminants) will acquire a negative static charge. They are stuck to the screen but repelled away from each other. When you scrape over the material it causes it dislocate away from the screen and cling to the neutral paper. The heads being spherical get held in the holes and the stalks and stuff get stuck to the paper. It works to separate out the contaminants not the heads. I have also found that if you swipe it faster you can grab more of the contaminants, but more heads will also be mixed in.
LMK what you guys think.

the heads stick to the parchment.. at first swipping your sift around a bit without keeping what sticks to the parchment is a good idea.. what you are doing is rolling the heads around on the screen which knocks off any stalks that are still attached to the heads.. then after a minute of that i usually brush my sift back into a pile and start again but now keeping what sticks to the paper(should be just heads).. small heads, stalks other small contaminents will fall through and large contaminent will stay on top in the original pile and all the heads not big enough to fall through the yellow screen should be collected... if you have a smaller micron screen under the 70ui screen then brush that stuff into a pile and do the same thing to that and you will collect the heads that have fallen through the yellow screen.
 

dannykarey

Well-known member
Veteran
Cool tech, great ideas guys!!

Gotta try this soon, thanx for posting this T2S...........very cool of you.

Keep up the good work!

Danny
 

great brozini

Active member
Bump for a great tek... Just got around to trying it and works much better than I could have expected... Dirty grinder hash to melt/bubble/press between fingers in all of about 3 minutes... Yield was surprisingly good too, even to the end and still very clean. Used a 200mesh aluminum frame

Major respect t2s!
 
B

budsoftruth

not cleaned that well?

not cleaned that well?

Time2Shine and any others with more practice than myself:

i have just ran my first ever static dry sift through a BubbleBox after running kief saved froma space case 4pc grinder through the screens:

Process:

1) Grind Buds in Space Case, little shake or 2 each time to break resin off plant matter a little more - kief saved in 710storage jars till "enough".
2)Kief sprinkled around top screen in Bubblebox evenly, then very lightly carded around till almost all passes through screen.
3)Remove top screen and begin lightly carding resin around evenly until most all has passed through to the third and bottom screen, the 70u.
4)Now on the 70u I very very gently do just a few cardings back and forth and then wrap the card in parchment paper....then i do a single back and forth once and then lift card, very gently tap the card, and then use a brush to dust the statically collected material onto a separate parchment. I will repeat this until i am not seeing barley anything on the parchment/card anymore.


Here is my question finally.......

So i finally found a small microscope at a store and now i can look at the resin, it still appears to be about 60%heads, 30%stalks, and still 10% or less maybe of green flecks


why am i getting this much contaminate on the card? is it too much static? or am i missing something in the process?

As i said this was my first time ever doing static dry sift but it seems liek there would have been a little better results

thanks again
 

Daub Marley

Member
why am i getting this much contaminate on the card? is it too much static? or am i missing something in the process?

As i said this was my first time ever doing static dry sift but it seems liek there would have been a little better results

thanks again
The method works best with DSW's technique because the parchment paper will clean up your sift, but only to a certain degree. You must have clean material to start with. No grinding.
 
B

budsoftruth

dry sifting techniques

dry sifting techniques

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated,

i have spent some more time on this one....getting cleaner :)

i found that spending more time cleaning the sift on the 70u screen first, and then going to the parchment seems to be working much better for me......could be due to climate/temp/humidity/size of resin heads???, or who knows what else....maybe stalks sticking to heads?

you are right, the cleaner the starting material the cleaner the end product....good in-good out.

i am now at about 80-85% heads, 10-15% stalk bits, and maybe 5% or less green flakes

some of the stalk bits are super dense, same size as the heads, this strain was a blue/og mix of some sort

im working on getting a usb micro so i can photo to share.
 
with the exception of the no grinding daub is 100 percent WRONG
misinformation is worse then not getting a response.. if you dont know what you are talking about please dont talk.. thanks

firstly get some real screens and stop fucking around with that bubble box.. bubbleman sells them at freshheadies or you can get them for like 30 bucks on amazon.. you only need 2 screens if you just want the heads and dont want them separated by size. press firm when carding and go about 1 foot per second.. pressure and speed have alot to do with how much static is created.. the more static the more heads you collect. tapping it into one pile is also not good if you are using something thicker like d420k and his dvd trick.. one side collects heads the other collects contaminants.. so you need to brush of the contaminants into a separate pile first so they dont make it into the pile of heads.. also fresh parchment every 10 swipes or so helps.. i think creases in the parchment tend to collect contaminants also..

if your results dont match other peoples its because the variables are different ..id say first try and copy what im doing using the same things i am( the only thing different should be the resin and maybe the card, i actually use a binder cover now wrapped in parchment d420k likes the dvd).. and once you have an idea of whats going on then start experimenting with other variables.

here is a couple videos that might help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCsQVUu7EEI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC5S-uF8VLQ
good luck next time!
 

cl0ud

Member
t2s

A couple questions for you: How long do you age/cure the material before you sift it? What temp/RH do you work at? Thanks for the info.

All the best
 
B

budsoftruth

time2shine, thank you so much for your response and the knowledge you are sharing with all of us...you are being acknowledged around the world for your technique.

I didnt get the larger screens because everything we run has been going to bho(prof. done w/ across intl.), and around here bho is king right now, but i still wanted to start doing a little sifting experiments in my free time

i bought the box and figured that would be an easy way to start into dry-sift, plus i thought it would be fun to play around with just the kief from the grinders to get a little head stash of pure resin heads.

dont get me wrong, ive been growing, making bubble/wax/shatter for a number of years now, I have just been taken back by the pics of the pure cleaned resin heads and no loss of terpenes...gotta try it for myself, ya know


bubbleman, d420k, johnny b, if your out there - we need to get time2shine on hash church for a chat, he obviously knows his shit about getting pure clean resin

viva la hash church!
 
cloud i usually give it at least a couple months drying before i start sifting.. my temps stay at 68-70 and my rh is about 30..
you can do it with freshly dried stuff but after a week or so it will get chalky and wont press right.. bubblemans always talking about that but i forget what he calls it... so smoke it fast if you do it like that.

budsoftruth you are very welcome im glad i can help...as for church there really isn't much more for me to say that people dont already know..i say have a church that is about showing exactly what is happening .. get some scientist types in there talking about why the heads are statically charged by doing that and why they like the parchment so much.. id also like to hear more discussion on the importance of curing and whats happening inside the gland head and the shell as it cures...like does whats inside the shell solidify after time?.. making it so when you bust it off it doesn't leak terpenes and whatnot causing the chalky effect?.. these are all things id like to hear more on and know next to nothing about..an episode more from a scientific stance rather then everyone debating what we think is happening.. that would be pretty rad..

as for your question "maybe stalks sticking to heads" bingo! dont be gentle.. har har get on those screens. you wont regret it.
 

Daub Marley

Member
with the exception of the no grinding daub is 100 percent WRONG
misinformation is worse then not getting a response.. if you dont know what you are talking about please dont talk.. thanks
If you think I'm wrong then call me out on that exact point because that's a blanketed statement that is quite adversarial. I am an engineering student and while some of my peers can put me to shame I am miles ahead of most in these parts. Especially when it comes to science and math. I deserve the same respect I have shown you.
 
sorry Daub i didn't mean to be hostile and i appreciate your input .. but i do think your wrong in saying that you need clean starting material and that that parchment can't get it fully clean.. i have done it plenty of times with super dirty starting material and ended with extremely pure finished product.. use the parchment again on the pile you already separated then push it through a 160lpi screen is what i usually do but if you really wanna get nitty gritty i think d420k has it right.. take all the starting product .. push it through a stack of screens to separate it by micron size then card each pile, twice. if im wrong in this and/or if there is a discussion going on elsewhere i didn't already snoop out..please do tell me.... ill be happy someone corrected me and further increased the purity of my sift but i gotta say aside from how its grown and cured i dont know how it can get much better.
 
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