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First extreme sativa run - please advise

Cheyos720

New member
Hey folks,

my first sativa run is currently underway with three genetics from ACE Seeds. These are the following strains:
- Purple Haze x Malawi
- Zamaldelica
- Golden Tiger (3rd Thai-Dominant Version)

I am currently growing three plants of each strain in 1-liter airpots. In the long term, I would like to keep three plants to cultivate them in my tent (1.2 m x 1.2 m x 2.2 m) under a 500 watt lamp. The plan is to repot them in 15-liter fabric pots soon.

However, I'm not sure how long I should keep the plants in the vegetation phase (18/6). The Golden Tiger in particular is growing much faster than the other varieties, which is starting to worry me.

My plan is to top all the plants from the third node onwards, shortly before flowering a second time and - depending on development - possibly a third time (probably at the start of flowering). After that, the few main shoots will be woven into a SCROG net.

Here are a few photos:
VT8:
IMG_5656.jpeg


VT6:
Neueste Fotos anzeigen.jpeg


I hope the growth rate is recognizable in the pictures.

I have two final questions:
What do you think of my plan?
When should I send them into flower?

Kind regards
Cheyos720
 
Last edited:

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Hey folks,

my first sativa run is currently underway with three genetics from ACE Seeds. These are the following strains:
- Purple Haze x Malawi
- Zamaldelica
- Golden Tiger (3rd Thai-Dominant Version)

I am currently growing three plants of each strain in 1-liter airpots. In the long term, I would like to keep three plants to cultivate them in my tent (1.2 m x 1.2 m x 2.2 m) under a 500 watt lamp. The plan is to repot them in 15-liter fabric pots soon.

However, I'm not sure how long I should keep the plants in the vegetation phase (18/6). The Golden Tiger in particular is growing much faster than the other varieties, which is starting to worry me.

My plan is to top all the plants from the third node onwards, shortly before flowering a second time and - depending on development - possibly a third time (probably at the start of flowering). After that, the few main shoots will be woven into a SCROG net.

Here are a few photos:
VT8:
View attachment 19116169

VT6:
View attachment 19116212

I hope the growth rate is recognizable in the pictures.

I have two final questions:
What do you think of my plan?
When should I send them into flower?

Kind regards
Cheyos720
Thanks for sharing your garden with us friend. You have a super line-up of strains. I wouldn't worry too much now because you have a way to go. When the time comes you can pick out the finest females and see how they respond to your growing environment. Those Sativa seedlings need special attention and you are doing well with them. It will be interesting to watch so keep us posted friend.
 

Cheyos720

New member
Thank you very much for your numerous answers.
I am considering repotting the plant twice, but I would put the plant in a SCROG net so that it is not mobile and cannot really be repotted by me.

I'll get back to you as soon as the little ones have grown a bit bigger and the situation becomes more serious or it becomes clearer when they will be sent into flower.

I am confident. They are currently getting 100 watts at a distance of 35 cm. They are no longer sparring and seem to be tolerating it well so far.
 

Nextgeneration73

Well-known member
Hey folks,

my first sativa run is currently underway with three genetics from ACE Seeds. These are the following strains:
- Purple Haze x Malawi
- Zamaldelica
- Golden Tiger (3rd Thai-Dominant Version)

I am currently growing three plants of each strain in 1-liter airpots. In the long term, I would like to keep three plants to cultivate them in my tent (1.2 m x 1.2 m x 2.2 m) under a 500 watt lamp. The plan is to repot them in 15-liter fabric pots soon.

However, I'm not sure how long I should keep the plants in the vegetation phase (18/6). The Golden Tiger in particular is growing much faster than the other varieties, which is starting to worry me.

My plan is to top all the plants from the third node onwards, shortly before flowering a second time and - depending on development - possibly a third time (probably at the start of flowering). After that, the few main shoots will be woven into a SCROG net.

Here are a few photos:
VT8:
View attachment 19116169

VT6:
View attachment 19116212

I hope the growth rate is recognizable in the pictures.

I have two final questions:
What do you think of my plan?
When should I send them into flower?

Kind regards
Cheyos720
Keeping such Sativas under 18/6 will ensure extremely great yeilds but no space for them as they get into flowering, also 12/12 and then going down an hour every several weeks would be recommended if the space is truly that tiny, the potency and quality would be the same, the yeild would be less though
 

BC LONE WOLF

Well-known member
D
One suggestion for a 2x2 tent is to keep them all in that same pot you have until they sex. Have a plan to control height (scrog, or prunning, bending) 99% chance you will run out of space (vertical and horizontal).

I would have started at 12/12 heavy sativas will veg under 12/12 until 10th-12th node of growth and then they are sexually mature (in most cases). They grow vertical while they veg and then they stretch for a good 4 weeks while the hormones set in place. Then they keep stretching if the photo period remains at 12/12 even 11/13. Most sativa growers will say 10/14 9/15 is the final photoperiod for heavy sativas.

Thats a Purple haze X malawi... HUGE when they veg.
05712739-986E-4824-B54C-65BA7D37A7AC.jpeg
 

xtsho

Well-known member
I've grown the Golden Tiger, Malawi, and Oldtimers Haze which is the mother to that Purple Haze and one of either plant will easily fill that tent if you let it. Best to flip sooner rather than later if that's all the space you have to work with.

Good luck.
 

xtsho

Well-known member
One suggestion for a 2x2 tent is to keep them all in that same pot you have until they sex. Have a plan to control height (scrog, or prunning, bending) 99% chance you will run out of space (vertical and horizontal).

I would have started at 12/12 heavy sativas will veg under 12/12 until 10th-12th node of growth and then they are sexually mature (in most cases). They grow vertical while they veg and then they stretch for a good 4 weeks while the hormones set in place. Then they keep stretching if the photo period remains at 12/12 even 11/13. Most sativa growers will say 10/14 9/15 is the final photoperiod for heavy sativas.

Thats a Purple haze X malawi... HUGE when they veg.
View attachment 19119308

I hope you used some of that pollen.
 

b8man

Well-known member
Veteran
Definitely wait for sexual maturity before flowering them. They just grow better.

Growing those big sativas in a tent requires some pretty brutal trimming to keep the size manageable. Don’t be afraid to cut them right back.

The stretch keeps going forever, so plan accordingly. I‘d try and limit the root space until flowering to keep the plants smaller - the 3 litre air pots are plenty to get them to showing sex when growing in coco. Stunting them a bit when young makes life easier later.

And make sure you’ve got your humidity in check so you can take them until they’re properly finished. Cutting early makes for a racier high.
 

Nextgeneration73

Well-known member
Hey folks,

my first sativa run is currently underway with three genetics from ACE Seeds. These are the following strains:
- Purple Haze x Malawi
- Zamaldelica
- Golden Tiger (3rd Thai-Dominant Version)

I am currently growing three plants of each strain in 1-liter airpots. In the long term, I would like to keep three plants to cultivate them in my tent (1.2 m x 1.2 m x 2.2 m) under a 500 watt lamp. The plan is to repot them in 15-liter fabric pots soon.

However, I'm not sure how long I should keep the plants in the vegetation phase (18/6). The Golden Tiger in particular is growing much faster than the other varieties, which is starting to worry me.

My plan is to top all the plants from the third node onwards, shortly before flowering a second time and - depending on development - possibly a third time (probably at the start of flowering). After that, the few main shoots will be woven into a SCROG net.

Here are a few photos:
VT8:
View attachment 19116169

VT6:
View attachment 19116212

I hope the growth rate is recognizable in the pictures.

I have two final questions:
What do you think of my plan?
When should I send them into flower?

Kind regards
Cheyos720
I just noticed that the space is even tiner than I thought at first, I'd be best if you've already went down to 12/12 and then 11/15 the week after and slowly but surely keep going down till you finish at 9-8 hours light otherwise they'll have to be taken incredibly early or moved to a much bigger setting early on....
Basically faster flowering, less yeild, but less space issues and less waiting till harvest...
 
Last edited:

Cheyos720

New member
Hey guys,
I hope you have a great Christmas.
Unfortunately I haven't looked in here for a week and to my regret I missed many of your replies.

Tent: 1,2m x 1,2m x 2,2m

The plants currently look like this:
IMG_0101.jpg



After the repot:

IMG_0068 Kopie.jpg IMG_0074.jpg IMG_0075.jpg IMG_0076.jpg

The outsorted sisters (I will use them in another project):
IMG_0077.jpg


As I mentioned before, I repotted 3 of the 10 plants into 15 liter pots and put them in the tent. As you can see, they seem to be doing very well. Enormous growth, really beautiful.
Nevertheless, I take your words very seriously. What should I do now? Normally I would top after the third node, cut away the shoots of the first node and then form an X that I top as desired. But that's probably unfavorable as I'm working with seeds?

Either I continue to work with these plants, as you tell me, or I make a “cut” each time so that I start again with a smaller plant. I have the time.

Thank you for your help!

Cheyos720

Edit:
Now:
423bfa66-7cab-4fc0-8a34-5a3e12a3c4bc.jpeg b6c30d3e-7104-462d-b7e8-d0710bee6aaf.jpeg 967e9d1f-dcfc-4cdb-ba4e-5dfc99424e76.jpeg
I have flipped the light to 11/13 today
 
Last edited:

Nextgeneration73

Well-known member
Hey guys,
I hope you have a great Christmas.
Unfortunately I haven't looked in here for a week and to my regret I missed many of your replies.

Tent: 1,2m x 1,2m x 2,2m

The plants currently look like this:
View attachment 19121339


After the repot:

View attachment 19121346 View attachment 19121341 View attachment 19121342 View attachment 19121343

The outsorted sisters (I will use them in another project):
View attachment 19121344


As I mentioned before, I repotted 3 of the 10 plants into 15 liter pots and put them in the tent. As you can see, they seem to be doing very well. Enormous growth, really beautiful.
Nevertheless, I take your words very seriously. What should I do now? Normally I would top after the third node, cut away the shoots of the first node and then form an X that I top as desired. But that's probably unfavorable as I'm working with seeds?

Either I continue to work with these plants, as you tell me, or I make a “cut” each time so that I start again with a smaller plant. I have the time.

Thank you for your help!

Cheyos720

Edit:
Now:
View attachment 19121572 View attachment 19121573 View attachment 19121574
I have flipped the light to 11/13 today
I wish I had space to grow this many at once, I can so far it seems grow only one or two mainly because of not the height but the width of my space...
How do you normally cure your weed after drying, curing jars or vaccume sealed cobs?
 
Last edited:

Cheyos720

New member
I wish I had space to grow this many at once, I can so far it seems grow only one or two mainly because of not the height but the width of my space...
How do you normally cure your weed after drying, curing jars or vaccume sealed cobs?
It depends.
I used to simply dry the material, fill it into jars at an equilibrium moisture content of 55-65% (measured with a hygrometer) and place a Boveda bag in each jar.

However, I now take other factors into account.

Since I work with “Living Soil” (solid fertilizer directly in the soil), I tend not to have any problems with over-fertilization - unless the fertilizer concentration is too high or the plant's genetics only require very few nutrients. As a result, I usually manage to achieve beautiful fall color and yellow leaves until shortly before harvest.

About three weeks before harvest, I stop adding CalMag (liquid) to create an artificial nutrient deficiency (lockout). I allow the plant to dry out completely in the pot at the mildest possible temperatures (below 25 °C) and die back. This is to encourage terpene production.

I understand if others want to give their plants the best possible care until the end. For my taste, however, I prefer the plant to be in a depleted substrate and show yellow, dead leaves.

A freeze dryer is definitely on my wish list, but until then I'm working with mild conditions: 19 °C and 60 % humidity. Instead of glass jars, I use Grove Bags for curing. It is important that no droplets form in them - in this case I air them briefly. In addition, the Grove Bags should not be stored in a room that is too dry for long periods of time.

Cheyos720
 

Nextgeneration73

Well-known member
It depends.
I used to simply dry the material, fill it into jars at an equilibrium moisture content of 55-65% (measured with a hygrometer) and place a Boveda bag in each jar.

However, I now take other factors into account.

Since I work with “Living Soil” (solid fertilizer directly in the soil), I tend not to have any problems with over-fertilization - unless the fertilizer concentration is too high or the plant's genetics only require very few nutrients. As a result, I usually manage to achieve beautiful fall color and yellow leaves until shortly before harvest.

About three weeks before harvest, I stop adding CalMag (liquid) to create an artificial nutrient deficiency (lockout). I allow the plant to dry out completely in the pot at the mildest possible temperatures (below 25 °C) and die back. This is to encourage terpene production.

I understand if others want to give their plants the best possible care until the end. For my taste, however, I prefer the plant to be in a depleted substrate and show yellow, dead leaves.

A freeze dryer is definitely on my wish list, but until then I'm working with mild conditions: 19 °C and 60 % humidity. Instead of glass jars, I use Grove Bags for curing. It is important that no droplets form in them - in this case I air them briefly. In addition, the Grove Bags should not be stored in a room that is too dry for long periods of time.

Cheyos720
Well if you look into vaccume sealed curing it's ages better and becomes more euphoric/dreamy/trippy/and cleaner even a year later and even more potent than jar curing which also works well, but just an idea you know....
 

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