first DWC experiment

[Phychotron]

So I acquired a clone (NYCD) that was just starting to root in a root plug, that after I transferred it the roots looked air-dried, but i put i in the pot anyway and it's been very slowly regenerating roots. I have just the one 5 gallon bucket with a 6" lid/pot with hydroton.

I was really curious as to the amount of nutrients I should use. I have the three part, Grow/Bloom/Micro from advanced nutrients, and I was reading on their website that pH was no longer an issue, because of it's special blend it was now less important to check pH. It sounds too good to be true, that the plant will thrive in a much broader range of pH using their nutrients. Does anyone know if this is true?

Also, I have some Piranha and some Tarantula powder that i've been using in soil, but i'm curious how it works with hydro. A friend of mine who told me to get the stuff recomended that i get some unsulfured molasses to feed them. I'm actually kind of lost as what exactly to do with all of it. any advice would be appreciated

I lost my internet connection so it's been hard trying to research this stuff.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Because you're new at it, I'd suggest limiting additives to Micro, Bloom and pH down. Grow bottles can be done without. I wouldn't trust any pH claims. Start at 1/4 the recommended dose for vegging mature plants. Chart EC and pH daily. Adjust from there.

EC up, pH down=too rich
EC down, pH up=too lean

 

[Phychotron]

ahhh, just typed out a long post and must not have submitted it.

i'm using RO water @~12ppm to start, and full strength of the nutrients are around ~1300 with all three parts. Looking at the advanced nutrient calculator it's recommending ~1000 ppm for flowering.

Should I do the first water change at the schedule time, or since the roots have yet to reach even the bottom of the pot can i let it hang?

How critical is it for the temperature to be in the 75º range? I'd estimate it to be around 80º.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Mfg nute regimens are formulated to make you overuse them ASAP so you need new nutes faster. Rather than use an EC meter to match a chart, chart EC and pH daily to determine proper feed levels.

EC up, pH down is too rich. EC down, pH up is too lean.

You can flush once a week (use even more nutes even faster) or you can wait for signs that plants are unhappy. One of DWCs benefits is the speed at which it recovers. I've done 20+ week flowering periods with only 1-2 res changes but, I grow a single plant in a res 4 times your size. The smaller the res (and in a 5 gal bucket that would be about 3 gal) the faster changes will occur.

High temps are not in themselves a death sentence but, can exacerbate other problems. Ideal temps are around 65ºF. Consider bottles of frozen water in the res. For a 5 gal bucket, bottles in the 12-16 oz range would work well.

 

[Phychotron]

frozen water bottles, of course, how could i not have thought about that? It's what i use in lieu of ice in my cooler. I have it in a phototron that someone gave me that seems to hold heat like no other. I took the top and a side off and the chamber is still in the 80's.

today is the first day that the plant actually looks like its starting to come back to life. I just ordered another LED to throw in the flower room and just in time I didn't want to flower in the phototron. the single Blackstar LED produced 3oz on my first grow with 4 poorly vegged plants (3 26w cpf). I'll make sure to give this one a premium spot.

Thanks for the info, when i get the internet back at my house I'll be able to do more research.