fert burn

[macster]

I don't know how serious to take this.I discovered that my nutes meter (blue truncheon stick) was out of calibration by a wack and when I thought I was running at 2000 EC it was really about 2800 EC. The nutes only stayed at this level for 6-7 hrs at most and I've noticed some medium size plants have some tip curl, the larger plants shrugged it off at this point I've just dropped the EC level to 1800 - 2000 and keeping an eye on them is it nessessary to do any more???

Also I've tried to maintain my ph level around 6.4 and upon reading nutes manufacturer directions (DNF) they recommend 5.4-5.8 when in flower. What do you guys think?
NFT continuous drip

 

[Guest]

i never go above 1500 ppm ever...your ph is dropping because your nutrient mix is to strong...your ppms are going up too...it is really simple my friend your ppms to high = ph going down and ppms going up because they are drinking more water than nutes thus concentrating your nutes thus lowering your ph..peace

 

[Guest]

shit i read part of that wrong but it still applies...i run my p.h at 5.5 to 5.8

 

[macster]

So you agree with the 5,4 - 5.8 ph levels
Its the manuf. that suggests an EC level of 2000 and the guy at the hydro shop says push it higher until nute burn then back off.
The question is do I flush, leave it and watch or take any other action you growers might suggest
BTW you might consider raising yours as an experiment as maintaining a 2000 ec has been excellent so far

 

[Guest]

i would watch my ppms and my ph they tell all...if your to strong your ppms will go up and ph down(add water) if to weak your ppms will go down and your ph up(add nutrients)..peace...the hydro guy was rite...but you dont have to watch for tip burn...just watch your ph and ppms...they will tell you when to stop

 

[unlearning]

I believe there may have been a minor misunderstanding..

macster is talking EC, brainthor is talking ppm. At the standard 2.0 EC or 2000 if your meter reads as so, hes actually running roughly 1400ppm at the standard conversion so actually his PPM if kept there should be near dead on.

As far as the PH, they normally recommend 5.4-5.8 from what I've read. I sapose since your using drippers you could consider it a little different, but still it's a NFT and considered hydro so try adjusting to that and see if it helps.

 

[macster]

tks unlearning, it seems we're on the same page on levels but my original question remains

 

[hogwild]

the reason your nute manufacturer says for a slightly lower ph is to allow extra uptake of P and K so if you want your plants to thrive and have the ability to obtain the nutrients they need for dense trich covered buds, i suggest you lower your ph to anywhere between 5.5 and 5.8, i like 5.6. You might want to look at the nutrient availability chart sometime to get a better reference. Peace.

 

[unlearning]

Personally, and I am by far no expert, but as long as you correct the PH and keep it at the "newly" found 2000ec I don't think you should have much of a problem at all.

Watch your resevior if your EC starts to raise and your PH drop the plants are drinking more water than nute so just pull back the EC to around 1800. Just keep testing every few days to a week until you just find your right mixture for the specific plants your growing.

I don't think you'll have to much of a problem now if you just correct the EC and PH. Your plants will do what they have evolved to do... grow


Un

 

[Guest]

all equations in hydro the plant tells you the target...follow the numbers...i am alright grower..expert..arrogance its all the same...and not me..everything i posted still applies weather ec or tds if the ec gos up your to hot especially with ph dropping...fuck around i love sativas