-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Fermented plant extracts
- Thread starter sophisto
- Start date
I can't get that link to work... sounds like a good one, though
I was only looking at it a few months back, but it appears to be gone now!
I did copy the info however:
HorseBadoritiz
Active member
Thanks for both of those links! I've been looking for the NPK of a whole banana, skin and fruit. I can get rotten ones, but I'm finding values for skins, and most of those values are for ash.
norcaltransplnt
New member
Idk if anyone mentioned this but you can take one gallon of em1 and turn it into five gallons buildasoil has a how to video
actually one gallon of em1 can be turned into nearly 20 gallons of activated em1 via the manufacturer's own instructions: https://www.teraganix.com/Activated-EM1-s/261.htm
but.... since you mentioned buildasoil... check out their "liquid comfrey extract" and "liquid hemp extract" (they may even have some of the "liquid pumpkin extract" in stock)
I wouldn't hesitate to use it. At the very least it will add some nutrients. I don't see a downside. Its free..
I'd be looking under the bushes for compost and do a simple tea or some act.
.
Nutrient levels are a side note(as per the thoughts of chris trump), fresh early morning gathered material, gathered with clean hands, is best. With the process of FPJ started as soon as possible. The things your looking for with a properlly made FPJ are enzymes, hormones and bacteria. Plant specific Lacto being what your after. FRESH is king, you want all the liquid from inside the material.
Ehh, pest problems at all? Blackberries are notorious for harboring just about every pest that attacks mj. I also dont know what negative effects it might have as i know in FErmented fruit extract its supposed to be combo of red/yellow/orange colored fruits/squash.
YukonKronic
Active member
Read this thread (mostly) a while back but it takes a lot of digging to find again the NPK value of yarrow... also interested in wether anyone has explored Rose hips and/or spruce tips (green spring tips) as sources of easily available citric acid and some sugars/auxins or whatever else may be present.
I did put a bunch (approx. 1.5 gallon bucket)of rose hips into my original 150 gallon soil batch and it seemed to work out fine but I'm growing interested in what exactly one might gain from an FPE of these.... I wager there's considerable calcium and maybe phosphorus in the rose hips at least if not the spruce tips. I do know both are good sources of vitamin c in northern forests.
Also curious as to value of fresh sticky poplar tips in spring. These smell very strongly and are sticky as hell so obviously full of essential oils and such... but what exactly is in there? Poplar is a Boron hyperaccumulator so if there's some of that in addition to other goodies we oughta check it out right?
I run too many different plants in almost perpetually flowering soil boxes (short veg period to "root in" and fully exploit benefits of extra root space) to do a reasonably controlled test of each FPE in question.
Honestly I'm m pretty sure if I made them all I would not be able to resist trying all of them, so side by side comparison to determine quantifiable effects from each is basically up to someone with at least equal curiosity to my own but perhaps greater ambition.
I did put a bunch (approx. 1.5 gallon bucket)of rose hips into my original 150 gallon soil batch and it seemed to work out fine but I'm growing interested in what exactly one might gain from an FPE of these.... I wager there's considerable calcium and maybe phosphorus in the rose hips at least if not the spruce tips. I do know both are good sources of vitamin c in northern forests.
Also curious as to value of fresh sticky poplar tips in spring. These smell very strongly and are sticky as hell so obviously full of essential oils and such... but what exactly is in there? Poplar is a Boron hyperaccumulator so if there's some of that in addition to other goodies we oughta check it out right?
I run too many different plants in almost perpetually flowering soil boxes (short veg period to "root in" and fully exploit benefits of extra root space) to do a reasonably controlled test of each FPE in question.
Honestly I'm m pretty sure if I made them all I would not be able to resist trying all of them, so side by side comparison to determine quantifiable effects from each is basically up to someone with at least equal curiosity to my own but perhaps greater ambition.
YukonKronic
Active member
Reason I ask about yarrow is I have a 10 gallon cider brewing jug full of yarrow fermenting... I'm using it at fairly strong rates of feed every couple waterings in first two/three weeks flower with no ill effect.
Also made a bucket of fish hydrolysate I've been feeding up to week four of flower. Good stuff going on twixt the two.... I started adding fish bone meal to my fish hydrolysate to give it a little more phos as I believe they are generally high N and I already use potsil as ph up as well as using kelp (in soil and as a FPE root drench when needed), greensand and young coconut for K.
I use a lot of local glacial till and screen it for rock dust. There is also a section of rock in the layers of old lava and sea floor in a canyon near my home that is visibly more red/brown and softer than the other layers. When I dig into the weathered (basically dust) rock piled at its base it smells strongly of earth.
I took this to be phosphorus solubilizing bacteria (at least partly) creating the smell and have used these rock dusts in conjunction with the microbiology in the various FPEs mentioned to create a soil food web that uses local natural inputs for most of its nutrition.
Also made a bucket of fish hydrolysate I've been feeding up to week four of flower. Good stuff going on twixt the two.... I started adding fish bone meal to my fish hydrolysate to give it a little more phos as I believe they are generally high N and I already use potsil as ph up as well as using kelp (in soil and as a FPE root drench when needed), greensand and young coconut for K.
I use a lot of local glacial till and screen it for rock dust. There is also a section of rock in the layers of old lava and sea floor in a canyon near my home that is visibly more red/brown and softer than the other layers. When I dig into the weathered (basically dust) rock piled at its base it smells strongly of earth.
I took this to be phosphorus solubilizing bacteria (at least partly) creating the smell and have used these rock dusts in conjunction with the microbiology in the various FPEs mentioned to create a soil food web that uses local natural inputs for most of its nutrition.
YukonKronic
Active member
I'm interested in any (intelligible to a layperson.... I know what PGRs are but not the hundred compounds dr.duke gives me.. I'm too stoned to figure out WTF any of that means and don't want to dig for four numbers thru all that... stuff.) actual nutrient or elemental values people can find on rosehips or poplar buds. Soapberry is also on my list as a possible source of saponins.
And maybe fireweed cause that shits badass in lots of ways... I've seen it damn near 6 feet tall by July in Dawson City.. grows from a scrap of a root and in almost any soil and the honey from it tastes amazing. It also has pretty shallow roots with big starchy tubers so I think it must hold quite a microbial consortium in its root system to accomplish such fast lush growth. Interestingly this plant is also (I think... guessing really) full of latex as it has white sap when stem is broken...
If I can find enough local plants with broad enough micronutrient profiles I can eliminate kelp from my nutrient list. Coconut will stay as a PGR boost I think..
I'm happy to ferment horsetail for silica and use ashes for K so the Boron in poplar tips and a better idea of plants in northern Canada that yield other useful nutrients or PGRs are kinda the last step to a cheap ass high quality organic feed regime.
I'm increasingly finding it tempting to cultivate nettles as I found a feral patch anyway (NOT normal around here... first I ever heard of actually. F*ck people who call climate change a myth. I live it. Every day.)
I'm also tempted to believe comfrey would fail to spread in our harsh northern climate (sub-arctic semi arid) but the nettles are evidence otherwise so if I do plant comfrey it will need a container and careful control of its flowering/seeds.
And maybe fireweed cause that shits badass in lots of ways... I've seen it damn near 6 feet tall by July in Dawson City.. grows from a scrap of a root and in almost any soil and the honey from it tastes amazing. It also has pretty shallow roots with big starchy tubers so I think it must hold quite a microbial consortium in its root system to accomplish such fast lush growth. Interestingly this plant is also (I think... guessing really) full of latex as it has white sap when stem is broken...
If I can find enough local plants with broad enough micronutrient profiles I can eliminate kelp from my nutrient list. Coconut will stay as a PGR boost I think..
I'm happy to ferment horsetail for silica and use ashes for K so the Boron in poplar tips and a better idea of plants in northern Canada that yield other useful nutrients or PGRs are kinda the last step to a cheap ass high quality organic feed regime.
I'm increasingly finding it tempting to cultivate nettles as I found a feral patch anyway (NOT normal around here... first I ever heard of actually. F*ck people who call climate change a myth. I live it. Every day.)
I'm also tempted to believe comfrey would fail to spread in our harsh northern climate (sub-arctic semi arid) but the nettles are evidence otherwise so if I do plant comfrey it will need a container and careful control of its flowering/seeds.
HorseBadoritiz
Active member
You might want to checkout the Russian Bocking #4 comfrey, it stays put.
Vandenberg
Well-known member
I'm now trying to wade through all 56 pages of this old thread and I am finding some interesting tidbits of wisdom regarding fermented plant extracts.
A lot of bro-science clutter here too unfortunately, but don't tell anyone.
I have used the fermented "Golden Tree" product from Humboldts Secret and was impressed, although not enough to buy @a high price more than a couple times.
Golden Tree uses an edible " Sugar Kelp" from East Asia ,Saccharina japonica, along with other undisclosed goodies, in their growth stimulating fermentation product.
Exact nutritional values of sugar kelp depend on which month in which it was harvested, but on the whole it contains an impressive variety of nutrients.
In addition to iodine and iron, Sugar Kelp is a rich source of calcium, magnesium, potassium, folate, copper, zinc, nickel, and vitamin K. Per 100 grams of dried kelp, sugar kelp contains approximately 69 grams of carbohydrates and 10 mg of protein.
A 2022 bump I do now bestow.
Vandenberg
A lot of bro-science clutter here too unfortunately, but don't tell anyone.
I have used the fermented "Golden Tree" product from Humboldts Secret and was impressed, although not enough to buy @a high price more than a couple times.
Golden Tree uses an edible " Sugar Kelp" from East Asia ,Saccharina japonica, along with other undisclosed goodies, in their growth stimulating fermentation product.
Exact nutritional values of sugar kelp depend on which month in which it was harvested, but on the whole it contains an impressive variety of nutrients.
In addition to iodine and iron, Sugar Kelp is a rich source of calcium, magnesium, potassium, folate, copper, zinc, nickel, and vitamin K. Per 100 grams of dried kelp, sugar kelp contains approximately 69 grams of carbohydrates and 10 mg of protein.
A 2022 bump I do now bestow.
Vandenberg
Last edited:
