Feed me?

[wygram]

What STRAIN are you growing?
MMM, Master Kush, and bag seed
What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?)
Seed
What is the age of your plants?
Three weeks
What substrate/medium are you using? (percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?)
One is coco (transplanted from soil), peat-mix with 30%+ of perlite
What Nutrient's are you using?How much of each?
BioBizz Grow, Bloom (they were/are showing need for P and BBGrow has 0.1), RootJuice, Alg-a-mic
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used?
EC 1.0, water is 0.1
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"?
Haven't measured, what goes in is around 7.0, except for coco plant ~5.7
What method of pH test was administered?
Strips, pH pen in the mail
When was your last water?
Yesterday
When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding?
Every other watering
What size bulb are you using?
400 CMH
What is the distance to the canopy?
12-inches
What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity)
No idea
What is the canopy temperature?
High 70's low 80's
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)
Comp fans
Is the fan blowing directly at plants?
Yes
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist?
No
Is your water HARD or SOFT?
For now mineral water EC 0.1










This one is interesting. It has dark purple spots on the leaf tips. P def?

 

[MynameStitch]

What kind of soil are you using? what brand of soil and coco is it?
Did you wash the coco good before using it?



Did you add lime to your mixture in soil?

BioBizz Grow, Bloom (they were/are showing need for P and BBGrow has 0.1), RootJuice, Alg-a-mic

THat is quite a feeding regimen; how often are you using them and how much of each?

Is there a meter you are using or are you using strips?

Another thing; toss that MH your plants need to be as close as possible to the light at tese stages otherwise you will get stretching plants. MH are the correct spectrum; but with it being so high powered you can't keep them as close as you could with fluros.
Depending on how much you fed and how often; looks to me you may have a buildup causing nutrient lockout to occur.

How often are you watering; a few of them look like they have a bit of moisture stress; how much water do you water them with?

When was the last feeding of both the soil and coco plants?

 

[wygram]

The soil is Miracle Gro .10-.05-.05, which I'm not too proud of but not worried about either as these plants are destined to be mothers. No lime added.

Coco is Sunleaves piece coir washed, soaked in a light CalMag solution and then throughly washed again. EC of run-off was 0.2.

Nutrients are added at the BioBizz recommenced feeding regime: BioGrow 2 ml/L, BioBloom 1 ml/L (needed P as Grow is only 0.1), Alg-a-mic 1 ml/L and Root Juice 2 ml/L. Water is then added to make the EC 0.9-1.0 and ph downed to appropriate ph.

This is tested using strips, but I'll have a ph pen in a few days.

I water every other day, the soil is usually completely dry (top to bottom) by then. Water until runoff or about 350 ml a pot.

Soil was fed one day before pictures and coco was watered right before pics, with nutes every watering.

 

[MynameStitch]

DAmn dude that is a strong dose for plants that small; you have to be locking out nutrients.......

HOw often are you watering?

2 ml per liter?
Do you realize if that is what you mean; do you realize how much nutrients you are giving them babies?

 

[wygram]

I flushed the soil plants today and kept checking run-off pH. Water going in was 6.9 and coming out was 6.8, over two or three samples taken at intervals from each pot. No nutrients for now. We'll see how they rebound.

Coco plant was throughly watered with a light nutrient solution, EC 0.46 and ph 5.7. Run-off was 6.9, which is strange because I have never watered with anything more than 6.0? Nutrient salt build-up should lower pH? I hope she starts eating.

 

[MynameStitch]

You need to get your coco ph fixed that is not good..... the fun off needs to be that of hydro 5.5 to 6.3

When you mix your nutrients do you let them sit or add any ph up or down to them?
MG soil you have the one that has the timed release ferts in them that says last's up to 3 months? If so that mixture is way to strong for plants that size; I never even gave my bigger plants straight up MG mixture I always diluted it with another mixture....

I used MG seed starter mixture; now that is good stuff,

You should not have any issue with it; already ph balancedl; but after 2 weeks you need to transplant because they use up the nutrients in the soil.

 

[wygram]

Here is an update. Two plants have grown into their new home and are doing just fine. The following two still have issues. I believe that these are just lingering reminders of problems they once had since the discoloration/necrosis is not progressing. I have since removed the affected leaves because I was not sure it wasn't a fungus attacking dead leaf matter.

This one has an overall yellow appearance, but I just believe that it is caused by a higher nutrient requirement than I'm supplying.



And a close up of the part which I removed.



This one has a different story. Overall green appearance except for the purpling of the lower fan leaves, which is not getting worse.



And a close up of the purple leaf.



Most of the information in the first post remains the same. BioBizz regimen with 2:1 Grow:Bloom, RootJuice and a light dose of Alg-a-mic. This is put into water that has a pretty high EC at 0.58, which translates roughly to 290 ppm @ 500 conversion. The nutrient solution is mixed to an EC of 0.8 or 400 ppm @ 500 conversion and pH downed to 5.7-5.8. I think I will start mixing my tap water 1:1 with distilled to get lower EC before nutes. Allowing me to add more nutrients without raising the total EC above 0.8.

 

[MynameStitch]

Did you stop using mineral water? If so good, cause mineral water contains sodium.. most of them do.

WHat is your grow room temps?

The yellowing is a nitrogen issue......


How much of each are you using? Teaspoons with how much water?

You tested your pH run off?
How often are you feeding your plants?

 

[wygram]

Did you stop using mineral water? If so good, cause mineral water contains sodium.. most of them do.

That needs to be in a sticky all by itself for people who have hard water and are looking to lower its EC. No wonder they started showing issues when I used jugs of mineral water exclusively. DUH.

I base my nutrient solution more on EC than how many ml I add, because I don't want to be raising the salt concentration around the roots. But roughly into 10 gallons I add 16 ml of BioGrow, 8 ml of BioBloom, 12 ml of RootJuice, and 12 ml of Ala-a-mic. That adds up to 48 ml per 40 L of water. With some pH down the EC is about .8 which is 400 ppm @ 500 conversion. Of this 290 ppm is the water content which is why I think they are not getting enough N.

The run-off pH has been steadily dropping from the way high 6.9. BioBizz nutes tend to float up to around 6.2 while sitting in the res, so something similar has to be happening in the root zone. I re-balance my pH down to 5.7-5.8 everyday. Since I'm lazy I will be getting come Canna A+B so the rising pH problem can be eliminated. Plus Canna has an increased N content relative to P and K for the increased growth demands of coco plants.

I am growing in coco chunks now so watering is liberal. They get 4 waterings every light cycle spaced evenly through the 20 hr light day. First is 30 min after lights on and last is 30 min before lights off. I was wondering whether I should do the last watering earlier so that the coco has some time to dry before dark, as I've read that roots utilize more oxygen at night. Or is it better to have the last watering near lights off so that fresh oxygen can be pulled into the root zone?

 

[Guest]

test strips can tell alot about your water there are all kinds available, some do multiple tests, chlorine dissolved solids, sodium ect.

 

[Guest]

pool and spa test strips test for chlorine,PH,and total alkalai (Hardness). very cheap.

 

[MynameStitch]

Ya, wy that is hardly nothing dude, cause most people use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon you were not even using that....... with the 10 gallons of water.....

But with your plant size, I would just use the grow and skip the bloom you do not need it right now, besides grow has enough p and K in it for your size plants and msopt of the time it's plenty for vegging plants.

 

[wygram]

@ octodiem - I have the city's water quality report. It doesn't look good.

From now I will be mixing the tap water with distilled water to allow me to add more nutrients without raising the EC. Tonight I'll top off the res with distilled water and pure BioGrow. Stitch do you think BioGrow has enough P? 1.8-0.1!-6.6

Additionally, I have one lady that started flowering on me under a 20/4 light schedule. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I should probably be hand supplementing her with Bloom.

 

[MynameStitch]

Ya, that does not have enough P so ya go ahead and use the feeding you have been using.

Normally most grow ferts do have enough P though......

Ya the one you have is an auto strain where they will flower even if the lighting change has not happened, I would still not put 24/0 on her I would change the lighting to something different like 18/6 or 20/4 or if you want 12/12

Plants that size do not need lighting 24 hours... I find it a waste and they only can take in so much light before they rest.

Yes, go ahead and switch her over to bloom.... I would still use grow but would use very little of it... half of what you used in vegging.

 

[Guest]

Most water a charcoal filter of reasonable quality will help huge amounts. Flouride can not be removed with charcoal. I know of naturally occuring spring water that has large amounts of phosphorus in it. You must know what is in the water, Tap water here will kill plants dead. A RO unit a small one will remove most things(not sure about flouride) Filtering is the best way because carrying the water is an expense much less paying for every bottle. Filtering and aerating is the gold standard the plants love the aerated water.

 

[wygram]

Thanks for your help Stitch, the plants are kicking ass. They have doubled in size over the last week. Must be the mycorrhizae and hydroguard. I wish I could get pics up.

To get it everything dialed in completely, I have two issues left to resolve. pH and a few (very few) spots on the leaves.
pH being off is supposed to be deadly, but the plants are rocketing up and eating well. My nutes go in at an EC of ~0.87 and come out at ~0.83. The pH on the other hand is a mystery to me. Res is at 5.8-6.0, but the run-off is around 6.8-7.2. Maybe it's just the nature of organic hydro to rise like that in the root zone.
I'll leave the second issue alone until I can post pics.

On a side note: What I think is a male, just went into 12/12 to become a father to my auto-flowering female's seeds.

 

[MynameStitch]

nope that is a female pistil bro; not a male pod it's what is in the soil mixture that is going to make the final count; if your soil is very akaline and your nutrients are acidic, it will bring down the pH but only very temp, the final pH value is going to be what is IN the soil rather than pH adjusting the water...... pH adjusting the water only works in hydro not soil... so when people use pH to fix there water thinking it's going to help with there pH in there soil is wrong.

 

[wygram]

I'm growing in coco, ditched that soil crap. I might just hit them with a few longer waterings over the next few days when I remix my res tonight.

I hope that is a pistil, but it has about 5 of them now and none are sprouting hairs as my other female is. The pic is a few days old and this particular pre-flower has been rising away from the node like male flowers do.

 

[MynameStitch]

same goes with coco/soil its the same thing with all mediums but hydro.

It's a pistil trust me They look like a pear or tear drop shaped.

 

[wygram]

Tell me something about these...





BTW, she turned out to be a he. I'm trying to get him to open his wings and let it fly so I can get some seeds from my auto-flower female.