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Fantastic miracle pH solution for soilless mixes

Retardo Motabon

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I see alot of people here who have sick plants often around week three of flowering and most often what looks like Mg deficiency. I have also seen alot of people solve the persons problem by telling them to get a pH pen. I just wanted to offer a tip for people who are going through this.
First off let me make a few statements. Every meter is a little bit different. Meters need calibration regularly. Probes of meters need to be cleaned regularly. Most meters don't have a very long life span before unreliable. Not all peat based mix is the same, even from batch to batch from the same company. Don't trust the mix no matter how expensive or popular to be dialed in regarding pH and conductivity. You cannot get an accurate reading of your soil pH by runoff without knowing the original pH and ec of the mix before using it. Lets call this your base number or reading.

You must have a base reading before amending or planting in your mix.
First start with r.o. or filtered low to no ppm water. pH the water to 6 or 6.5 mine is always 6.5 out of the filter so I take my runoff readings at 6.5pH and 0 ppm of water (If I used 6pH my ppm's would go up from adding the pH down to the water.)If you don't have a base reading you will not get accurate readings of runoff period. Also to note, measuring runoff is not a science. However it can be accurate enough if done right. Measuring correctly requires consistency. you must use water with the same readings every time. You must have your meter clean and calibrated every time. Let's say you want to get a reading of pH and likely will flush it as it has been way off. Once the soil has reached field saturation (equal parts drain for amount of water added) your runoff readings are less and less trustworthy as the water column pulls the water down and out of the pot very quickly. As each nutrient varies in solubility, your runoff won't be an even mix of the nutes you provided. You may notice if you have had to flush before that you may get a ppm of 1280 for example from the first amount of water you run through, while the next bucket of water you put through reads 1410ppm. Seems odd the numbers would go up adding no ppm water to the mix but the reality is there are different solubilities for each nutrient so readings can jump back and forth at first. I can't tell you how much water to use to get a proper reading as i don't know your pot size. For the most accuracy do your runoff sampling at similar moisture contents each time. In other words if you test after a recent feeding with soil moist, then next time you test and the mix is pretty dry, you will have to add alot more water to the pot to achieve runoff. Obviously your results would be skewed as the first time you tested at near field capacity with a fresh nute topoff in the pot, next test, alot more water was used to reach field capacity for runoff without fresh nutes. In reality you tested differently each time.The level of repetition or consistency with how you measure directly effects the accuracy of your readings.
If this sounds like a bunch of extra bullshit when your crop is already enough work,but once you've had pH problems the extra work more than pays off.
I needed to pot up some seedlings into peat from rapid rooters recently and picked up a big of soilless mix that didn't have a nutrient charge, though many do. Instead getting it wet adding some lime and uppotting I measured runoff from the mix. The pH was 8.1 and the ppm's were at 2600. Sounds like a problem as the seedlings only need about 100-200 ppm's.
A while back I bought a bag of BioBizz light mix which gives a pH and conductivity reading of the mix right on the bag. I think it was 5.8 and 1.3ec. I tested it first and the pH was 4.3 with a ppm of over 3000. Wow what quality control, nice of them to mislead you into a false sense of whats in your mix. Last year I tried using Berger sounds like 'Berjer' I'm probably spelling it wrong. It was great pH 5.8 1000ppm's. I bought more later and the pH was way lower and ppm's higher.
If you don't test your soil before planting or adding amendments you might as well add your nutes blindfolded as your levels may be way off before you even start. Knowing this, rules of thumb like always add a teaspoon of lime to your mix don't seem quite right.Test first, then add nutes or amendments knowledgeably. Hope this helps someone :wave:
 

wygram

Member
You are definitely on point. Whether it is amending soil with buffers, preparing coco, or using a RO filter in hydro, preparing the medium pays by warding off potential pH issues later.

Concerning peat, the basis of many soil-less mixes, can vary considerably in pH, even when it is taken from the same source.
 

Retardo Motabon

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Veteran
Exactly right with the peat and pH variation. I believe there is a general assumption that when you spend big bucks on a bale of peat based mix that it will work great, its been buffered, this is what hort industry pro's use it's going to be great. Often this confidence can be taken another step further toward putting the ass in assume when folks take their clean new buffered mix then make it even better by adding X amount of different amendments to the peat. More often than not when I take readings on a bale of high quality mix it tends to have a ppm of over 2000ppm's on average. I think that this is one of the missing links for a lot of growers that commonly run into burning troubles with seedlings and very often, the pH drop and lockout that occurs for so many after a few weeks into flower. Take a soil mix with over 2000ppms, add amendments, fertilize maybe twice in veg, then hit them with more and different types of ferts as flowering begins and whammo!, the buffer fails, the pH tanks, the symptoms appear.
 
Well right off the bat I'll let it be known this thread is BULLSHIT. Save your money for some bat guano......cuz you don't need a pH meter to grow weed. Here is a simple soilless recipe, that when used with rain/snow/ or r/o water....there is no need to pH anything. Dry ferts can be added to the mix which is especially helpful during flowering.
I'd also recommend brewing teas or at least allowing for your nute solution to bubble at least 24 hrs.

This is tried and true not just some BS I made up out of thin air. Check out Organics for Beginners Sticky in the Organic Soil section....it is really the simplest way to grow weed. FUCK ph meters.


LC’s Soiless Mix #1:
5 parts Canadian Spaghnam Peat or Coir or Pro-Moss
3 parts perlite
2 parts wormcastings or mushroom compost or home made compost
Powdered dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.
...Wal-Mart now sells worm castings.

Edit- I will mention that tap water is fine as long as your ppm's are under 200 and isn't extremely high in pH like over 8 to start with....it could be used but you'll have to decrease the amount of lime.
 
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Retardo Motabon

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Hey rocky what you doing here? Since when is real organics done in soilless mix. Soilless means no soil. Real organics involve soil. So what are you doing coming in to talk shit trying to further confuse people who need help? I only had to read one of your comments I guess to know you are a dumbass. Why are you in the infirmary? need your head checked? Frickin troll. :spahnk:
 
Z

zoolander

rcky, I dont want to get to deep with you on this one but by the look of your gallery you need a ph pen bad my friend :laughing:
 
Z

zoolander

Octo :wave: Either way your still testin your ph. Rcky :laughing: What did you do pull out your shitty best 2. Chump haha, I forgot more about growin than you will ever know .





















I think thats what your tryin to do rcky, I tried to find a pic as shitty as yours in my gallery but oh well
 
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Z

zoolander

Sorry suby that last pic is all in fun, I hear what your sayin since at times I also dont use a ph pen or anything but I think this was more focused on people newer to growin by montabon. And yes I know any medium can be used for organics. Once again I know I was a little harsh Rcky but that pic is just for funnin you :wave:
 
zoolander said:
Sorry suby that last pic is all in fun, I hear what your sayin since at times I also dont use a ph pen or anything but I think this was more focused on people newer to growin by montabon. And yes I know any medium can be used for organics. Once again I know I was a little harsh Rcky but that pic is just for funnin you :wave:

Wow, that last quote of yours shows how truly gutless you are. I yield a gram/per watt and I am perfectly happy with that. I have a shitty camera, so go ahead and make fun of my pics all you want....I'll post more. I would think someone with 1,500 posts on here would be able to explain why a pH meter were necessary based upon facts instead of namecalling.

NOPE. You apologize to Suby....like a bitch I might add, then mention that "at times" I don't use a pH pen. The soil mix and method I listed above gets recommended to new growers in the Organic section all the time. I was going to post up my 3rd best/shitty pic for ya....but you already gave us so many fine budshots of stuff that was grown without a pH pen I don't really feel the need.

Zoolander....I hope I'm not the only one you've impressed....GOOD WORK! :wave:
 
Z

zoolander

Rcky, Like a bitch I dont think so. I never said you dont need a ph meter I said at times I have not used one either but this is from experience at growing and I think a lack luster half ass grower like your self can use all the help he can get . The only way you will ever post a decent picture is if you borrow 1 from someone who can grow :spank:
 
I'm not here to quibble with you Zoolander....I don't need to prove anything.

My goal here was to discredit Retardo Montabon's information...so that new growers don't feel like they NEED to use a pH meter. Many credible growers on this site and others will agree with me.

I made a POSITIVE contribution to this site simply if 1 new grower reads "Organics for Beginners" in the organic soil section. Anyone who is about to embark on Retardo's method should read it and make their own decision.

Peace
Rcky
 
G

Guest

Organics decomposing can become acidic. I re-use all the soil maybe not for mmj.
Diet Pepsi however is not even close to organic.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
13511speedqueenflower2.JPG


this is a healthier looking plant than 95% of the shit I see around the forums, not overly green, no sign of calcium def. or Mg def., no signs of pest, not stretched...

It's a fucking nice tree in my book Rky.
 
G

Guest

Iggy has fed well, Iggy has fed often. Iggy has burped and is now back under the sink a la the Flinstones garbage disposal, and thanx all who have participated in this thread. Seldom does he get the opportunity to feed so well.
 
Z

zoolander

Suby, I did'nt want this to get so carried away with Rcky and I'm sorry to everyone for gettin a little pissed but I guess when I get told I bitched out for sayin sorry for havin fun with a pic that got me.But Rcky got back by givin me my first neg rep ever. When I grew that plantin in the pic you blew up I thought it looked a bit pale but heres 1 thats dark 10 days in flower and once again sorry for trashing this thread and I guess this means I'm bitchin out LOL


 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Not really because most organic fertilizers or even mediums other than coco are slightly to highly acidic.

Zoolander it's all good, you have some nice looking plants there also.

If anyone is just starting out by all means ph until your heart is content, but there is no way I am measuring runoff, I don't have the patience and I don't see the point.

S
 

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