Experienced Grower Having HEAT Problems - Please Help!

[purpledomgoddes]

re-post from below thread, recently. as stated therein, run higher temps on purpose. during early to mid flowering, desire day+night temps to be 80+.

the trick is to lower temps 1hr before dawn to make the plant think it had long/cold night.
ambient temps in the 90's (f); no problems. just maintain voluminous air flow/gas exchange, and get rid of humidity.
they hang out in the high mountains of various regions in the world @ 100*f+, and have been for thousands of years...

ideal temp? [*below re-post from this thread]
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=125526

*ideal temp is that which can be maintained in own environment. the domain and range of plants is very broad.

in this imaginary garden temps are kept high on purpose, day and night.

w/ lights on, ambient temps are 78-88*f, and can get up to 100+ easily, when additional lights are turned on.

begin fruiting w/ 85*f day/80*f night.
then 85*f day/85*f night
then 80*f day/88*f night
@ 1hr before lights on, turn temps to ~60-65*f.
then 72*f day/60*f night @ 8/16 light cycle.

if have good ac/de-humi, check difference between gallons transpired w/ higher temps vs. lower temps, and amount of water roots have drawn in. more water seems to cycle thru eco-system w/ higher temps.

higher temps promote greater metabolism, respiration and transpiration - as long as dehumidification is occurring and air flow is voluminous, can go up to 100*f.

plants generally register temps @ photoperiod changes. @ dawn can trick plant into thinking had a long cold night by lowering temps to 60-65*f; when really had lights on temps of 88*f. this registers in plant as 60-65*f night, though have had benefit of much higher temps, actually.

@ mid-flower, make night temps higher than day temps (negative diff).

then positive diff (warmer day temp than night temp) to finish.

if really interested, try in own garden... plant senses average day/night, and weekly temps, and acclimates to general weather pattern, just like any other living organism. either plant will adapt to regime, and thrive; or suffer.

try 1 week w/ lower temps (65-75*f), then try 1 week w/ higher temps (75-85*f). these are the generally accepted 'low' and 'high' temps. neither regime will kill plants. observe differences, if any. take note of rh differences, if any. also, take note of differences in water uptake from roots. then decide which temp regime will work for own garden.

the surrounding vapor pressure (relative humidity) also affects how plants respond to higher temps. cooler temps squeeze water out of air. higher temps hold water in air.

if plants are transpiring more due to higher temps, more water vapor in air. remove humidity so plants can push out water into surrounding atmosphere. water vapor is pressure upon leaves (stomata). stomata regulate internal temp of plant, and gas exchange w/ environment.

there are many variables in deciding 'ideal temp'. some variables garden/er/cultivar specific. some plants thrive in high temps, some may not. most do. the natural regions of high mountains/deserts/low valleys of 100+*f temps (over many centuries) have made many species quite adaptable to dry, hot temps. some equatorial plants may desire higher rh, like in grassy/swamp areas.

any plant can be made to adapt to what the garderer desires. those that dont survive are not strongest genotypes.

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!

 

[SpoCannabis]

Thanks for all the input everyone... I am probably going to try and get a window-mount A/C to fit into the daylight window in the basement main room. If this is not a possibility, I will probably be forced to use seperate A/C units for each room...ugh =(. Unless I can create a secure way to have one of the daylight basement windows open for fresh air. IMO, I don't think a chiller will make that much difference being as how water temps are staying low, around 70degrees.

Note: HUMIDITY is approx 35-40%...


Any other suggestions / comments....?? Thanks

 

[rasputin]

hey Spo sorry to hear about the heat issues. Definitely the #1 issue, didn't think you'd have such a problem given your set-up initially. I remember checking out your journal a little while ago and it seemed to work well for ya. don't ya jus love what a summers heat can do? grrr...

anyhow, as far as portable AC's go I've found them to work well if you pick the right one for the job. they're definitely still too pricey, need emptying too often if yer not directly draining and can be loud fuckers. but that aside, they're generally strong enough to cool spaces and provide a good dehumidify as well. that being said, a good window unit can be had for less $$ and some argue it works better. it may if you don't exhaust the portable unit right but I've got a portable unit in my guitar room and it can get downright chilly in there even when the floor of the house it's on can get damn steamy come summer time, and our summers aren't only hot but humid. the worst combo by far. but to be fair, there ain't no giant HPS in there either baking them in some direct heat so I could be off base.

why not try using the filter & fan to scrub the room while the other fan simultaneously cools the light and exchanges the room? sealing the light/fan venting should allow the AC'd air to stick around, filter set-up will keep the stank down and the light is cooled as well. I think I read you saying you don't arent running a lot of CO2 so ya can't close things off in a true CGE-style.. hmmm. have any way of bringing in fresh air daily? jus my two cents.

hope things get under control for ya, I know how much of a pain in the ass heat issues can be from past experience w/others. when I finally got myself situated I spent almost too much time worrying about heat & ventilation.

take it easy Spo and nice to meet ya.

 

[Guest 18340]

Just so you know, they make multi-zone split units; 1 outside unit and 2, or 3, or even 4 inside air-handlers for seperate rooms.
You have 1 window for 2 rooms? With a window unit, maybe use ducting and a booster fan to suck/blow cool air between rooms, if the rooms are back/back.

 

[greengnome]

Are you crazy? This information is nearly a decade old.

27-30!?!?!?!?!? hu? BUG that usually = bugs, and without CO2 at high temps is crazy, either this quote is inaccurate or typo.

High temperatures you want for CO2, low temperatures you just want.

I personally never pass 20c and that's the best ever. My current is doing nights at 55-56 and days at no more than 70 during day time. Very rare to pass 70 in my stuff.

now why do i do this? Because I had a bug problem, and my buddy said, wow your to hot, I said 'Ya' he said ya, try cooling things down. 85-86 is where i used to run it... I'll never do that again, it sucks and doesn't do nearly as well as done at cool temps.

Some thoughts on temps:

Optimal temperature is 27-30 C (80-86 F) if you have strong light with no CO2 enrichment. Less than 21 C (70 F) is too cold for good growth.
Low temperatures at night are OK down to about 60 degrees outdoors, then start to effect the growth in a big way. Mid 50’s will cause mild shock and 40’s will kill your plants with repeated exposure. Keep your plants warm, especially the roots. Elevate pots if you think the ground is sucking the heat out of the roots. This is an issue if you have a slab or other type of cold floor.
As temperature goes up, so does the ability of the air to hold water, thus reducing humidity, so a higher average temperature should reduce risk of fungus.
Contrary to many reports, high humidity is not good for plants except during germination and rooting. Lower humidity levels help the plant transpire CO2 and reduce risk of molds during flowering.
Studies indicate the potency of buds goes down as the temperature goes up, so it is important to see that the plants do not get too hot during flowering cycles.

D. Gold: CO2, Temperature and Humidity, 1991 Edited by E. Rosenthal.